Announced Oct 14, 2009 •
12 megapixels | 3″ screen | Full frame sensor
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Hi everybody. I usally shoot pentax, or GF1 with old monolta rokkor lens. It is a long time hobby. Since years I've had this D3s in my mind. I never went the Nikon way, but its ability to shoot in near darkness always impressed me. Now, some years later, with the prices having dropped a lot, I have the opportunity to get an used Nikon D3S with a 50mm 1.4g lens (for 1650€) but in really good condition. 10Mpix is enough for me, as I don't print large pictures. Am I making an error ? Is it...
I've been using my Nikon 17-55 2.8 DX lens with my D300 and D3s. I plan on selling the D300. I do not mind using the 17-55 with the D3s, but as most know its not really for full frame. But it does a good job if I shy away from the 17-24mm area and do not use the lens hood. If not I get the back side of the lens on the outer frame edges. Usually it's not a problem. But I would like to have the extra wide angle for those tight areas. I do local band stuff from time to time (almost every...
Hello, I have an old and trusty D2h and recently acquired a Sandisk 16gb Extreme Pro card. To my surprise the D2h won't work with the card. This is the only card the D2h is having problems with. As far as I know the D2h works with 16gb cards. Can anyone confirm this? The 16gb card will work with the D3 and D3s, so it seams the card is fine. The D2h works with other cards, so it will also seem the D2h is fine. Any ideas? Thanks. --There's not 2 but 3 sides to every story. Theirs, yours, and...
I haven't used my D3s in several months and just the other day I noticed that whenever I shoot a photo the first shot is ok then after that an err appears on the top lcd and every photo after that is black. I noticed the mirror is locked in the up position and shutter closed. it does this in single shot and burst low and high. However if I switch to Quiet mode the mirror will drop back down. and operate as it should. I did a reset of the camera and topped off both of my batteries, tried...
Hello, I noticed that the metering button on my D3 is finicky and requires a little more to turn than it should. It is also wanting to stay in Matrix metering even if turned to spot or center weighed. It takes a little messing with it before you can get it just right and manage to get it to "stay" at the setting you need it at. I went ahead and programmed another button so that the camera will go to spot metering when I need it. So selector switch stays in Matrix, and instead of messing with...
By: ContaxRTSII (3 months ago)
Posted to: Studio and Lighting Technique
Stupid questions here, this is my first light meter, a Sekonic L858, it reads light "much less sensitive" than my Nikon D3s and D500 by easily three stops. For example, this is test just did, aiming at the same object, the D3s and D500 both reads 1/250 or 1/125, F2.8, ISO 800 while L858 suggests 1/8 or 1/15 for incident, 1/30 or 1/8 for reflective (also ISO 800, F2.8). The reading can be off depends on the angle of aiming the same target. But the discrepancy between light meter and camera...
I am doing an indoors photo shoot in 1 week and I have a question. I will get straight to the point, What would produce a better image (mainly noise)? D810 36mp 105mm @f2 cropped to 300mm or D3S 12mp 300mm @F4 The D3S will have to be shot at an ISO at least 2 stops higher! I only have access to a 105mm f2 and a 300mm f4also a D3S and a D810. I do not have them now but I will on the shoot.
I'm planning to shoot a college water polo tournament in a couple of weeks, and I have never done that before, so a couple of questions: 1.) How close can you normally get to the pool, i.e. will 70-200/2.8 be long enough or do I need to lug 300/2.8? I like to fill the frame. 2.) What light levels should I expect at the pool? Also, what shutter speeds can you get away with? I normally don't like to go below 1/800, but that is based on field sports. Is water polo more forgiving in this...
I'm pretty sure I read a review (but I can't find it now) online that said if you shoot in manual mode on auto iso with flash and the flash doesn't recharge quick enough to fire,the camera with still expose the scene,or try to,correctly.Does anyone know if this is correct? When I use the setting on my D3S if the flash doesn't fire the frame comes out black.
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