Fujifilm releases firmware updates for X-T2, X-Pro2 and two lenses

Micro APS-C sensor? That's not even a thing! :D

I have an Fujifilm X-T20 and it's much better to use than the a7r I had previously, which had serious camera shake, ergonomic and shutter sound issues.

Bigger sensor does not equal better camera.

There's no such thing as micro aps-c.

Isn't it smaller that the foveon frame FF sensor allowing Sigma to have the sharpest lenses ever made with their Artistic series?

Look, another "very few but well confused ideas" case.

1) there's no such a thing as a FF Foveon
2) Sigma "Artistic" series does not exist (Art, yes)
3) Anyway, how do you think this is relevant to a firmware upgrade for a system you don't use (nor know)?

Well, if you think that Sony A7R is better, buy it instead of the newer Fujifilms, which cost the same. You will have 'much bigger and better' sensor and 'much bigger and better lenses' than those 'micro-aps-c' ones of Fuji, surely.

it is well known that what makes great photographs is a big sensor..

"it is well known that what makes great photographs is a big sensor.."

It is well known that what makes large photographs is a big sensor..

Fixed that for you.

oh, I should had put three full stop marks as to make the irony clearer but since it is a 2/3 FF sensor (APS-C) thread I thought of keeping 2/3 of the dot marks at the end of my sentence... obviously a 3 dots full marking would be better than the 2 dots APS-C marking - now for medium format I should be using 3 underscore marks...

3 underscore marks is the minimum for MF, I agree.

BTW, given what I often read on this board, your sentence above sounded more than credible!! (two exclamation marks). :-)

that is why I made that comment - I am fed up too by people unable to see beyond gear specs, not only in photography - glad I am not alone..

@Pancho, why would you settle for the tiny sensor in that Sony when the Fuji GFX is bigger?

@Tical. “It is well known that what makes large photographs is a big sensor. Fixed that for you.”

It is well known that what makes large photographs is a highres sensor...

Fixed that for you unless you think You can get a larger print from an 8MP FF sensor than you can a 20MP APSC sensor.

People get super cranky if you don’t like the camera they own. LOL

Would you rather have a camera from a company that never updates firmware?

It's optional and free. You could have bought sony to find out next day that there's new model for $$$$$$$$ that fixes a bug in previous model.

The ISO dial lacks a 'C' position, only has 'A'.

'C' on the other Fuji's allows ISO control via the Command dial. So unfortunately it is a hardware limitation, the dial has no C setting.

@D log&: It's exactly what I'm doing. I leave the first preset to a variable auto ISO value, while the other two presets are fixed at 1600 and 3200 (since they are the hardest settings to turn to on the ISO dial when you need to make quick adjustments). It works, but it's not seamless and forces the ISO menu to pop up, which takes my eye away from the subject. I'd prefer a direct control via the command dials because I can just turn the dial and the change will show up in the viewfinder.

@left eye: The real problem is Fuji not letting you map a button to ISO, only Auto ISO in the newer cameras. Previously with the X-T10 or X-Pro 1 I could just hit a button for ISO and move the command dials. Goodness knows why Fuji absolutely refuses to allow you to do that starting from the X-T1 onwards and forces you to either use the physical ISO dial, or Auto ISO. No big deal on the X-T2 and X100F, but a real pain on the Pro 2.

The physical ISO dial is not conducive to quick changes. Try jumping to ISO 1600 or 3200 from the 'A' setting in one quick, fluid motion without having to let go of the dial or accidentally changing your shutter speed, and you'll start seeing my problem.

I'm a stage photographer, so it's not uncommon for me to change ISO stops several times per minute. I can't rely on Auto ISO because the results are inconsistent, even with spot metering. More so when I'm dealing with scenes with multiple light sources that change rapidly.

My partial workaround for this issue is to set the 2nd and 3rd presets to a fixed ISO of 1600 and 3200. But even so, selecting my preset takes my eye away from the subject for a few seconds.

Before the X-T1, Fuji let you map a button to ISO and control with the command dials. This was removed on the X-T1 and Pro 2, where you can only set Auto ISO via a button. Clearly this was an issue, because the X-T2 and X100F restored ISO controls to the command dials.

Why not just leave your ISO at 3200 so that you always have the usable shutter speed needed in the lowest light you encounter on stage? Your 'electronic+mechanical' shutter will keep you from running into overexposure issues, and the small amount of noise at 3200 is easily dampened down in Post.

I shot theatre and dance performances onstage for several years in the '70s when first starting out using Tri-X B&W film pushed to 800 or 1600 ASA, and pushing 400 ASA neg for color images, and I would have killed for any of today's digital marvels. Try manually focusing old Nikkors at f/2 (or 2.8 for more DOF) in near darkness through a "Photomic F" finder, and then tell me how hard it is to change your ISO using a twist ring. I walked a mile in the snow barefoot to every theatre gig, too. Even in summer. ; )

I adapt my Nikkor 50mm f1.2 AIS over, and can manual focus a moving subject with it wide open. But in comparison, the Nikon's focusing ring is easily reached and I'm still ready to shoot when manual focusing. On the X-T1 or 2 I could make ISO changes reasonably fast with the dial, but not with the pull up dial on the Pro 2.

I do leave my ISO at 1600 or 3200 when the lights don't change much. It keeps my post processing relatively simple. But with theatre shoots, if a spotlight is painted on my subject, I only need ISO 400 or so. I normally shoot full manual instead of aperture priority or with Auto ISO so that I don't encounter any unpleasant surprises. For example, if I'm shooting a low key, partially spot lit subject in a frame with multiple small light sources, the metering can easily swing +/- 2 stops in Auto ISO. I'd never get a correct exposure regardless of metering mode, so shooting fully manual is my best recourse.