Andy Blanchard

Joined on Feb 10, 2004

Andy Blanchard's recent activity

  • Two obvious things to consider based on the comment about skin tones: Are you shooting raw?  If so, you'll generally need to tweak the settings in post to give the image some more "punch"; straight ...
  • Good to see you got it all sorted out.  Happy shooting! Andy
  • Yes, I do.  I did a whole bunch of tests on a tripod when I first got my 200-400 just to see how far I could push it. It's noticeably soft if you zoom in on an image, but just about usable if you ...
  • Ah, didn't realise you meant it wouldn't focus *at all*; "recalibration" usually just implies AF works but is slightly off. If it's not focussing at all, then that's far more likely to require a ...
  • CPS does recommend that you get both cameras and lenses services and recalibrated periodically to maximise their life, but they probably would since it's usually chargeable.  Frankly, unless you ...
  • I 've had a similar experience with LP-E4's as well.  One recovered after a three or four repeated recalibration cycles, the other was still requesting recalibration after several attempts.  At ...
  • +1 on manual mode here as well. I generally use full manual, try and keep the aperture between f/5.6 and f/8, adjust the shutter to compensate for props or jets (around 1/200 for props, at least ...
  • Definitely the 100-400mm II with a crop body, except perhaps if you have a decent 70-200mm already, in which case you might want to pair it with a 200-400mm since you are renting.  Be advised that ...
  • Not going to be much help for your immediate problem, but this sounds more like a design limitation of the Kirk L-Brackets, or maybe just this specific model. Plugging in cables has never been a ...
  • I'd go with that.  The Kenko tubes I have feel a bit "coarse", as if the dimensions were a tiny fraction off, compared to attaching a normal Canon mount lens, but work just fine and haven't caused ...
  • Replied in 17tse vs 24tse
    Pretty much this.  I have both lenses and apart from a few shots in big sky country where I've used the tilt to get some foreground flowers in focus as well the big sky and the country, I've ...
  • Yes, the 17mm (and the 24mm) TS-Es will work with both 1.4x or 2x TCs.  This makes the lenses far more flexible as they'll become (roughly) a 24mm & 35mm for the 17mm and a 35mm & 50mm for the ...
  • Yes, they are expensive, but you do get what you pay for. B+W & Heliopan are about the best there is, but Hoya is pretty good too and actually probably the best value for money unless you *really* ...
  • If you find this is something you need to do a lot then a tilt-shift is absolutely the way to go; I use my 24mm TS-E far more than I was expecting too precisely because of scenarios like this. The...

  • Everyone wants software to fix up their poor photographic skills. Learn to use a camera and do it properly, a few extra seconds, levelling the horizon and getting the composition you really need. ...

  • Daniel's experience pretty much echos mine. Canon's metal lens mounts (the lower end cameras have plastic ones that are much less robust) will easily take a super-telephoto without breaking, but ...
  • That's definitely an option, but you'll need a phone with a decent capacity battery if you are in the habit of spending an entire day or more in the field while trying to create a GPS log.  By ...
  • Quick update, but I've done a little digging and it appears that the Canmore GT-730FL-S is probably the closest recent functional equivalent to my current BluMax device, although Canmore also do a few
  • It will, but it's hugely expensive for what it is, IMO. You might also want to take a look at standalone GPS loggers that output a GPX logfile that can then be used to tag your images as part of ...
  • More of a sensible precaution to give yourself a bit of a "buffer" against a little blur.  When I'm thinking about it, I typically switch IS off at 1/f for my smaller lenses and 1/f+1 stop for my ...
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