Andy Blanchard

You'll mostly be shooting wide to standard, so the 16-35 f4L and the 24-105mm, plus a fast prime for low-light (I'd go with the 85mm). I'd definitely take something long as well; the 200mm f/2.8 ...

For general landscape? The perspective correction of shift is very useful for anything that has a strong vertical near the edge of the frame (trees, man-made structures and so on), or making shots ...

Some serious examples need to be made, and while the legal penalties for such vandalism are there, the problem is that the courts are not enforcing them apropos to the damage being done. At the...

Two obvious things to consider based on the comment about skin tones: Are you shooting raw?  If so, you'll generally need to tweak the settings in post to give the image some more "punch"; straight ...

Good to see you got it all sorted out.  Happy shooting! Andy

Yes, I do.  I did a whole bunch of tests on a tripod when I first got my 200-400 just to see how far I could push it. It's noticeably soft if you zoom in on an image, but just about usable if you ...

Ah, didn't realise you meant it wouldn't focus *at all*; "recalibration" usually just implies AF works but is slightly off. If it's not focussing at all, then that's far more likely to require a ...

CPS does recommend that you get both cameras and lenses services and recalibrated periodically to maximise their life, but they probably would since it's usually chargeable.  Frankly, unless you ...

I 've had a similar experience with LP-E4's as well.  One recovered after a three or four repeated recalibration cycles, the other was still requesting recalibration after several attempts.  At ...

+1 on manual mode here as well. I generally use full manual, try and keep the aperture between f/5.6 and f/8, adjust the shutter to compensate for props or jets (around 1/200 for props, at least ...

Definitely the 100-400mm II with a crop body, except perhaps if you have a decent 70-200mm already, in which case you might want to pair it with a 200-400mm since you are renting.  Be advised that ...

Not going to be much help for your immediate problem, but this sounds more like a design limitation of the Kirk L-Brackets, or maybe just this specific model. Plugging in cables has never been a ...

I'd go with that.  The Kenko tubes I have feel a bit "coarse", as if the dimensions were a tiny fraction off, compared to attaching a normal Canon mount lens, but work just fine and haven't caused ...

Pretty much this.  I have both lenses and apart from a few shots in big sky country where I've used the tilt to get some foreground flowers in focus as well the big sky and the country, I've ...

Yes, the 17mm (and the 24mm) TS-Es will work with both 1.4x or 2x TCs.  This makes the lenses far more flexible as they'll become (roughly) a 24mm & 35mm for the 17mm and a 35mm & 50mm for the ...

Yes, they are expensive, but you do get what you pay for. B+W & Heliopan are about the best there is, but Hoya is pretty good too and actually probably the best value for money unless you *really* ...

If you find this is something you need to do a lot then a tilt-shift is absolutely the way to go; I use my 24mm TS-E far more than I was expecting too precisely because of scenarios like this. The...

Everyone wants software to fix up their poor photographic skills. Learn to use a camera and do it properly, a few extra seconds, levelling the horizon and getting the composition you really need. ...

Daniel's experience pretty much echos mine. Canon's metal lens mounts (the lower end cameras have plastic ones that are much less robust) will easily take a super-telephoto without breaking, but ...

That's definitely an option, but you'll need a phone with a decent capacity battery if you are in the habit of spending an entire day or more in the field while trying to create a GPS log.  By ...