Andre Yew

I'll play ... With the understanding that we're picking favorite Nikkors, and not favorite lenses of other brands (of which I have many), here are mine: 24/3.5 PC-E : a tricky lens to use well ...

It is a beautiful lens, and I love mine too. The AF is slow though: not bad for nearby adjustments, but if you place the AF point on the wrong spot, and the lens has to rack from one end to the ...

It was Roger who revealed the 105E’s “toy” AF gear to the world: https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2016/12/taking-apart-the-new-nikon-105mm-f1-4e-ed-af-s/

I agree that 28 and 35 are very different focal lengths with different character: the compositions I make with one are totally different than the other. 35 is like a normal that's wider, and 28 is ...

Seriously, how are either of these statements even remotely arrogant? The first is a real problem given how much information JPEG compression removes in the first place, and then the recompression ...

I'm about to return a BenQ PV270 (the slightly more expensive video version of the 2700) and get an NEC PA272W instead. The monitor's color does look good, but at its default mid-range sharpness ...

Color and rendering, and a little bit in sharpness, but mostly in color and rendering. The Nikon has a more beautiful rendering, and the Milvus has a more neutral rendering. I can see why someone ...

That's how I like to use my 58G as well: f/2 is the sweet spot on my lens. It's nice to have f/1.4 when I need more light, but the lens has a lot of issues wide open. I haven't noticed a change in ...

Mine is tuned to the aperture I use most often (f/2), and I live with the slight (on my copy) focus misses at the other apertures. The variability of the camera's PDAF will affect you more than ...

This is a great article about using T-S adapters and old Olympus OM lenses on an X-T2 with lots of examples (in his portfolio) and specific advice about lenses: https://www.robdeloephotography.com/ ...

You're welcome. Don't forget that there are at least 5 ways to isolate your subject: 1. Depth-of-field (the fast lens thing, but also foreground-background distance and camera-subject distance, ...

I'd add that environmental portraiture is traditionally done with deeper depth-of-field because you want to actually see details in the environment (see Arnold Newman for examples of classical ...

I really don't think your target is parallel to your camera in that the left and right sides of your target aren't the same distance from the center of the sensor. But since you're just using the ...

The 50-100/1.8 and D500 are made for each other: it's about the only lens I use on it these days. The 18-35 is good if you use the central focusing area, but otherwise, you're rolling dice.

Your target is not parallel to your camera, which is almost certainly what's causing your problem. Also, where are you focusing? If it's the center (on the words "Focus Here"), then it doesn't ...

I agree with Bing, and the optical section itself is sealed off: it's like a lens suspended inside a bigger metal box that implements the tilt and shift functions. Also $90 is a pretty fair price: ...

It could be the way he angles his camera towards his subjects. Placing them more centrally compared to a 3x2 sensor like the GR's, and keeping the sensor parallel to them will reduce a lot of wide ...

All of the PC-Es including the 45 can do simultaneous tilt and shift. What they can't do (that the Canons and new 19mm PC-E can ) is change the shift direction relative to the tilt direction ...

Now now, Mike, be nice! :) Most smartphones are 28mm FF eFOV, but in a 4x3 aspect ratio so that may give the impression of a narrower FOV. 28mm is a classic focal length for many street shooters: ...

As perhaps the first person who talked about the Tamron 85's VC degrading IQ, let me address this: it's a very subtle degradation. If you thought the difference in Just Tony's photos of bird ...