Marianne Oelund

This isn't interpolation.  It's simply 2x scaling of the ADC data from PDAF rows before it's written to the image file.

Why are the bands slanting upward from left to right, instead of being precisely aligned with the top/bottom image edges?

Mine quit with no warning.  It was working perfectly through the end of a day's shooting, then after sitting in the camera bag for a few weeks, the AF motor wouldn't run.  Completely dead. In my ...

I'm wishing the lunatic fringe could be entirely limited to the internet.  It would be so much easier to avoid. Back to the thread topic - In my view, the strength of the Z6/Z7 is in landscape and ...

6720:3776 is a video aspect ratio (1.78:1), so perhaps it was taken with Video LV activated?  I'm not sure how those modes work on the D810 as I've never used video on a D8xx body.

A more significant question than what they're using now, would be, "What were they using before mirrorless?"

Nikon dSLR PDAF doesn't focus wide open, in the sense that the AF module only receives light from a restricted area of the lens exit pupil, which is the f/5.6 circle, at most. On-sensor PDAF can ...

I'm now using the foot from my 70-200G VR II on the 70-200E.  It locks down securely with very little torque on the knob.  How ironic that the foot which came with the 70-200E doesn't do the same.

Why do you think it's a completely new AF system, rather than just a tweak of Nikon 1? Also, it is not as though Nikon rushed the Z system to market. "Flat earth theory" is an oxymoron, therefore ...

With mine, if I tightened the clamp knob to the point where I felt it should be tight on the dovetail, it was still loose and would slide freely.  It takes fully 100% of the force I can produce ...

It's just a reflex.  Any time I drop something and it's falling out of reach of my hands, I put my foot out to catch it. As I discovered the hard way, tools should never be used on the clamp knob. ...

The first one is really about as good as you can expect indoors at ISO 2000.  The second one is a bit front-focused.  At this aperture, you can't expect AF to be consistently optimal so there will ...

Music (keyboards), skating, bicycling, astronomy, evangelism/spiritual warfare, upgrading/maintaining rink sound systems, driving at the track . . . retirement isn't going to be leisurely. A couple ...

The problem is that, depending on the fit of the parts, tightening the clamp knob may not produce any clamping pressure on the dovetail.  Then the only security is provided by the latch, which is ...

Yes. Mine landed on my foot.  Camera is OK.  Foot was sore. Both knobs?  I have one knob. Ideally, no.  I can tighten the knob on mine enough by hand, so that it won't slip off if the release lever ...

This is the same behavior as the Nikon 1 series, which have the additional feature that the camera will open the aperture to as much as f/2.8 when light levels are low, to help AF.  It's fairly ...

That particular split applies to only one case:  When the subject is at one third of the hyperfocal distance.  At closer distances it becomes more even front/back. At half of the hyperfocal ...

As with the 28/1.4E, 58/1.4G and 105/1.4E, you choose the aperture to achieve the out of focus character that you desire.  I often use them stopped down some. The 58/0.95 has promise to achieve all ...

I do not believe you will find many.  I own quite a few lenses of that era, and some of them are better than the later AF lenses which replaced them. Most of my photography is done using Manual ...

Be aware that the exposure meter won't work with AI or non-AI lenses.  This is truly getting back to basics:  Use an external light meter or successive approximation. If there's any chance you ...