ChicagoRob

The Pro-200/300 are superior to the Pro-9000 mkII in every way, so, yes,  there will be differences in output. After many years of trouble-free service, I am finally putting my Pro-9000 mkII to ...

What, exactly, did you do to upgrade your PC?

Uninstall driver and install latest driver from Canon website.

Let the printer control color, set Matching to ICM, and report back.

For my ColorMunki, I let the first target dry for at least 24 hrs. before measuring. I do the same for the second target. This is important, because inks “drift” during the drying period. The ...

Most papers do require some time to "flash-off," but can be stacked without problem, after drying for 30 minutes. For more delicate surfaces, it's a good idea to use interleaving tissue between ...

I knew Fred quite well. His B&W prints were gorgeous. His Zone VI Brilliant paper was also best of breed.

Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl is the finest “art” paper I’ve ever used, and I’ve used plenty. It does a fine job on my Pro-100, but comes alive on my Pro-10 with full overcoat. Color, detail and ...

Kind of off-topic, but I had Jose Rodriguez make a custom print for me on Canson Aquarelle rag fine-art paper, with his pro-1000. The result blew my mind. I could not believe how solid the black ...

Even with a good profile, the Pro-100/200 still have problems with metamerism. I recommend going with the Pro-300, if you plan on doing a lot of B&W printing. It’s a better B&W printer, especially ...

I’m running a Pro-9000 mkII, Pro-10, and Pro-100. Not one clog, ever, in any of my printers. However, I do keep them covered when not in use, and print a nozzle-check and small sample every two ...

I prefer to sharpen the Lightness channel in LAB mode. It does a great job, without creating color distortions.

The Sonys are nice if you have tiny, midget fingers.

Agree 100%. That would be the end-all/be-all for me. It would never come off the camera.

I’m looking for a RP replacement with a sensor that has better dynamic range.

Keep it simple. Go OEM and use the canned profile. You’ll be golden.

When you become fully addicted, you may want to pick up an i1Studio. I have found some of my own profiles to be superior to the manufacturer-supplied profiles.

I know you said you have a complete collection of baryta-like papers, but the following papers are highly recommended, should you desire to experiment further: RR Palo Duro SoftGloss Rag RR Palo ...

Wait till you see what the Pro-300 can do with premium semi-gloss rag or baryta papers. That’s when it really shines.

Jose Rodriguez YouTube channel has many videos on the Pro 1000.