secretworld

I don't think you need to fill the gap between 60 and 100mm at all. I would not anyway. What is the limitation in practice you come against and if none perfect and if you have an issue try to fix that.

1 no keep 7-14, one stop is not that interesting. 2  no keep the 35-100 or sell 35-100 for this lens not both! is 100mm enough for you? 3 no why if you have the 12-35 and  35-100 or 50-200 4 If you ...

Thanks

No apology needed! Forums are handy but also limited communication wise, you never know where someone is coming from in the helpful to trolling spectrum ;-). Exactly, I understand that on a cloudy ...

No you miss my point. I am trying to be helpful practically! I agree with you 100% about ETTR. I am just adding that you should do this at the lowest iso possible. If using ETTR (at any iso) you ...

To make it a little more controllable, do the following on a tripod, with focus and apperture fixed (unsharpness also gives the impression of more noise).  Do 6 different exposures with one stop ...

Even stopping down to f4 or f5.6 will be enough . If you do some testing for the best setting before hand. So the closest focus distance where infinity is in focus. I did this for my 7.5mm fisheye ...

Honestly there is not much gain for indoor shooting with any of those. Maybe faster focussing because of DFD. And of course better OIS. But for indoor  the limits are in the movement  (which needs ...

I have the 45-150 and like it. It is relatively small and light. I saw a deal on the 35-100 which is smaller and lighter and researched the image quality through reviews.  Well they seem about ...

I had the 14 and 20mm and for me I love the 20mm and didn't like the FOV of the 14mm. I do love ultrawide (7-14) though and also the 12mm of my 12-32 (landscapes). One lens for me would be the ...

In a way what I say now is both dated and not. I had a X-E1 and GX7 at the same time both 16mp. Short recap, colour and noise was better on the Fuji, detail on the Panasonic, detail on the Fuji ...

Coming from a GX7 this is a nice upgrade. Better sensor and better ibis. The GX8 was nice but to expensive for me. The GX85 had the 10 bit raw with electronic shutter (which I already have in my ...

Sorry Chris I don't agree. Just compare the G85 @+5 with electronic and normal shutter. This is the 10 bit shutter look. My GM1 has it GM5 too but not GX7 or GH3. You might say the raw numbers ...

The issue with 10 bits raw is that the deepest shadows are clipped (to 10 bits) and this will show with extreme shadow pushing as an ugly green cast. You can see how that looks by under exposing ...

Just have a look at the dpr dynamic range comparisons. Set at +5 and compare Standard to e-shutter. If 12 bit, thare about equal. If 10 bit strange green noise cast. EFC on the G85 is indeed 12 bit.

The first to not give 12 bits raw with ES, were....GH4 and GM1/5. the GH3 and GX7 before that had 12 bits ( that's why I have them, but they have very/to much rolling shutter, but not for my use, ...

Oh and the 10 bit raws are not noisier, they are clipped and clipped noise is ugly and unnatural and un-fixable. But that being said, in the last 1000 shots I took with my gm1 this was an issue ...

Agreed. And I have lots of experience in real life with 10 vs 12 bit shutters (GM1/5 GH3 GX7). Thing is also (to the OP) I don't see the EFC as noisier but equal . The 10 bit shutter is easily ...

I would not expect any meaningful difference except that it is 1.5 stops faster, so more light and a tiny bit shallower depth of field

The purple blotches are invisible to the human eye! It is the UV sensitivity of the sensor that makes it visible. Pana has more UV filtering then Oly.