sensiblename99

Canon EF 1.2/50L is still a favourite in this focal length. It has quite funky bokeh behind the subject but is quite sharp wo in the central area. It's quite similar to some older fast lenses but ...

As Prof mentioned, your lens appears to be in some kind of focus mechanism already, but this might not be of any use. Wait until the lens arrives, have a decent look, measure the flange focal ...

Easy, Leica R4 for B+W or colour neg, Leica R8/9 for E6 (better metering), if you want to shoot film. The R4 has a larger viewfinder magnification than the later bodies (R5/6/7) but had a dark ...

Assuming it's the Componon-S 5.6/135 (No.14127) then the thread is M42x0.75 equivalent to T/T2 threads (not have M42x1 thread so don't try too hard to mount it to a normal M42 adapter).  See http:/ ...

Thanks, Interesting.

Not sure really as I haven't used it for a very long time, but if you want movements using any bellows then you need a lens with a sharp large image circle, ie longer lenses. The Schneider ...

I think that the folds in a normal bellows have a similar effect to the baffle, ie I think they would be be more effective than a bag bellows. But I agree a baffle is probably best if it can be ...

Agreed. The Mamiya 645 2.8/80 is excellent, very sharp indeed. The 1.9/80 is excellent too and preferable for portraits but more expensive. I don't like longer lenses for portraits but the Maiya ...

Oops, I meant to reply to Rob de Loe , anyway... simple-joy, yes PB-4. It's quite a nice unit, although a bit heavy and clunky.

This is the case with pretty much any enlarging lens with an image circle significantly larger than the sensor, even those intended to be reversed. I used a Nikon bellows which worked well to kill ...

I have no issues with it. If you like it then keep doing it. There will always be those who don't like something, don't worry about it.

I use the IKEA light too, I've never used the nail UV lights. Apart from keeping dust exposure to a minimum I'd suggest considering the heat that is given off by any lamp, mainly because of the ...

That's a decent summary but in practice almost all (but not all) enlarging lenses can render very sharply in the centre at infinity, how far that turns to crap in the corners seems to relate to ...

I have one and used to use it for (effectively) product shots using a Nikon PB4 bellows (on a Canon body). I think it's an extremely good lens, I was always very happy with it although never used ...

Good luck with it. Sounds like it will work out well for you.

I have the old 24-70/2.8L but tend not to use it any more mainly because it definitely is large and heavy compared to the 17-40. Maybe the reason I get a minor hotspot is because I don't have a ...

Yes and no. I use the EF17-40/4L on an A7r2 (mainly, but also a7r4) with a Hoya R72. It's not really infra red but close enough for my purposes. Sharpness seems fine, I've not really had issues ...

I think the path to contentment is managing expectations. Even the latest lenses can have mediocre performance in certain circumstances, apertures, distances, corners of the frame etc. I have an ...

Even many modern lenses don't give extreme sharpness in the corners.

I've always had what people call 'legacy lenses' which weren't being used so getting an adapter to use some of those (Leica R lenses) just made sense. However one of the main reasons I started ...