nighthiker

I disagree as the thread starter is using relatively long exposure times (2 min) which can results in many hot pixels (depending on the camera) which are best removed by a dark frame. Of course he ...

I understand, but my suggestions was only to use something like 'darks' to evaluate the amount of noise and hot pixel, not to apply proper darks in the production workflow. Take some 'darks' in ...

Hi! Heat problem: Can't you check the heat/noise problem before as you don't need any sky to do that, just a 'normal-hot' place for your camera (e.g. balcony). Simply let the camera adjust to the ...

Thanks for the info with DxO for noise reduction. I will have a look into it! As you need the dark frame only for the foreground, one frame should be enough which will save time. Remember that all ...

Hi! Sorry, but the usual suspect again :-) I just wanted to comment on the internal NR: I wouldn't use it as there are better ways to reduce noise and hot pixels: 1) The inbuild NR is a dark-frame ...

The blue night sky in many images has nothing to do with the reality (unless you take the pictures during twilight), but is probably a mixture of the Purkinje effect (at low illumination objects ...

Well, I would say that even for nightscapes the color shouldn't be too far off from reality. That is at least my opinion and I simply cannot stand a blue or rainbow colored MW. Light painting ...

I'm always using Canon cameras, I'm always using max. aperture for focus, ISO isn't so important for focusing and time (as long as it is > a few seconds) is also not so important. The screen is ...

OK, I'm using Canon, but for (U)WA work for MW (14-40mm) I have never had any problems with shutter shock. Only for the sun  and the moon with a 100-400 mm zoom plus 2x converter the full ...

Hi! That's something I learned: The beginner is looking for a longer focal length and the experienced is looking for a better tracker/mount. As mentioned above: The limiting factor will not be the ...

Hi! What do you mean by impact? s/n improvement, larger dynamic range, more 'likes' :-) ... Based on my experience the camera has a rather moderate impact on my astro photography (unless you have a ...

Thanks for letting me know what I will miss this year  - like every year - as I will have to wait until mid-August for astronomical darkness again :-( But I might be able to get the Perseids as the ...

Due to the lack of astronomical darkness I was only able to record 2 hrs (00:30 to 02:30 CEST) with a reasonable dark sky this morning. I was exhausted after the 1+ hour snow shoe hike to the ...

Unpredicted clouds for my location, so I will also skip tonight, but the forecast for tomorrow is clear :-) I think that last night was the last one with astronomical darkness for me. Now I have to ...

Thanks for feedback and the very best for the next nights! Living at the rainy westcoast of Norway my situation is rather promising: Spring has just started with several clear nights in a row, the ...

Hi! I get different peak times for the Lyrids in 2022. Is that the normal uncertainty of different forecast models? Depending on the forecast either the night 21-22 or the following night (22-23) ...

Hi! Based on a quick inspection I would say that the focus is OK and only the pic from your guide is looking slightly blurry by shake. Your lens has a little bit of a 'halo' around some stars, but ...

Hi! Wrong EXIF: That's normal as the Canon camera doesn't know non-Canon lenses. 50 mm is used in this case as a default for the focal length. As it is an AF Samyang lens (=it has some sort of ...

Hi! This is a fast & easy test for the usual decentering issue with Samyang (and other manufacturer) lenses: https://phillipreeve.net/blog/how-to-check-how-decentered-your-lens-is/ Beside of that I ...

Hi! - Think of your cloth as Finland can get fresh and with freezing toes & flingers you cannot do photography. - It sounds like a once-in-a-lifetime trip to me, so I don't know if it makes sense ...