QuietOC

An APS-C mirrorless camera with the Samyang 12mm F2  is a good option.

There are no great electronic AF adapters for F to E. There are several focal reducer options from F to E. Those pretty much equalize the lens performance between the sensor sizes. The newer sensor ...

Ah, its a riddle! The answer is the 20mm pancake. There must not be enough room for the 16mm pancake. I have smaller bags that can easily carry several lenses. It would be a shame to leave the ...

Sensor size is not directly a benefit in low light. If you don't mind shallow depth-of-field, go for the biggest lens. There are F2.8 kit zooms and F4 and slower primes. You need to compare ...

Diffraction and depth-of-field both scale proportionally by crop factor, so you can multiply the relative apertures you are used to using on your Four-Thirds system by 2 for similar results.

My Kenko A-mount teleconverters work fine on the Sony LA-EA adapters. I assume the EF versions would work on EF adapters. Sigma claims that "MOUNT CONVERTER MC-11 is not compatible with ...

I don't think the A6000 has a low light advantage to a current Four-Thirds sensors though it might get more light from a focal reducer. It has a substantially lower base ISO so it can use more ...

Some zooms have better image quality than some primes. I didn't find the FE 28mm F2 all that great. The Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 Art is an example but a bit of a stretch with your budget. Brighter than ...

Small cavaet: using my LA-EA1 adapter there is only AF-S in video.

Kit lenses for all systems vary quite a bit. The 16-50PZ may be slightly worse on average, but it is covering a much wider angle in a much smaller package. I find my copy very good in the middle ...

Even the Tamrons that borrow Sony Lens IDs? The two Minolta SSM lenses share the same Lens IDs as the Sony versions and should be supported by that. Sony is not a reliable resource for this ...

The A6000 captures don't contain any of the light from those PDAF rows. You might not notice visible banding, though it certainly happens on the A6000. There are a couple of user created tools to ...

I recommend a used Tamrom 70-300 USD. The Minolta/Sony 75-300's can be fine. I have at least one extra 70-210mm F4 in great condition. There aren't many bad copies.

Sony's on-sensor PDAF pixel rows aren't used for image capture which causes different issues than losing one third of the light at every pixel. Light is still lost. There are no screw-drive lenses ...

Fuji ISO settings are close to full-frame equivalent ISO. So it is not surprising that they seem directly comparable to full-frame. Maybe other small sensor cameras should follow their lead.

@cosinaphile equivalence is only how optical images can look similar at different capture sizes. It is not about sensors being equal. It is not really about sensors at all.

A half-size macro is close to an ideal lens for a somewhat small flat subject life this.

They are using quite a few, much less than ideal lenses.

I was thinking of what lens.... maybe a Tamron Adaptall SP 90mm F2.5? I'm impressed with my non-Adaptall 52R version.

I don't think using the same lens on different formats is all that useful though.

In my experience focusing is better on the A65 than the A58. I don't think the speed of the AF drive is different though.