Ember42

Seconded on this one. Just need a single axis as the monopod is fairly maneuverable. If you use BlackRapid straps you can get a BR attachment point that replaces the screw in a Monfroto QR plate so ...

I wanted to like the 16-55. I got it with the XT-1 originally, but I found that it had trouble in the outer half of the frame when shooting near infinity distance. (The center was good so the ...

My understanding is that Camera RAW recognises the DR setting and sets the exposure appropriate to what the equivalent ISO was (so the overall brightness would be right), but it does not apply a ...

I have been running into something similar to this problem with my XT-1. I think it is a problem with the PDAF, as when I use MF + AF-ON i don't typically get it. I will have to experiment more. Th ...

And here are a couple samples I had done a few months ago 18-55 at 35 f5.6 35 at f5.6 Both are stopped down to the same f5.6, which should be as good as it gets for APS-C.

I have both. the 35 f2 is distinctly better, and does have much more 'pop', especially off center. The size is also nice and WR. For general daylight use I generally leave the 35 on, and carry ...

Nyquist is not quite correct for this application. Nyquist assumes point samples, but as the fill factors (including microlenses) approach 100%, The samples are area average samples.
This means...

That one looks much sharper (in the parts without heat distortion). Mode III should work well, it could just be that it happened to be adjusting between stable spots, or you were panning a bit ...

I use C2 for bright clear sunlight. I have it M modem with the ISO fixed (set to keep some detail in white feathers), and (around 1/1000, ISO 200, f5.6). The action is set for 1/4000 with fixed ...

Fair enough. I can't quite justify investing in it for the few times I want telephoto, but also want to go relatively light. I have the 100-400 II for most telephoto work now, and of course that ...

In custom controls you use the option that is an arrow to a camera and then an arrow away. There are about 20 parameters you can set in this option. It can be used (with different settings) for ...

Worse than expected: Tamron 17-50 f2.8 (non-is). Maybe a bad copy, but massively underwhelmed 55-250 IS - Got rave reviews with comparisons to much more expensive lense. I don't see it. 24 f2.8 ...

I have removed AF from the shutter and have several buttons setup with different scenarios. On AF on I have it set for static subjects (I use AI-servo, but you could use one-shot here), and then ...

Did you have IS on, and if so what mode? It looks like you have some motion blur (but hard to tell at this resolution), which could be from having Mode 1 on, or not panning with the subject? I do ...

Basically it activates the IS algorithms in the background but doesn't move the stabilising element until you take the picture. It is supposed to autodetect if you are panning or not and switch ...

Overall I would say that the 18-55 is great for snapshot / event type things where absolute quality is not as critical but flexibility is. The middle 2/3 of the frame is probably as good as ...

I got a 16-55 with my X-T1 originally. I found my copy to be soft at the edges near infinity focus, even stopped down. It was especially bad at 16mm, which is right where I needed to be consistent ...

I would modify your set slightly. 14-42 or 15-45 f4 WR OIS. This range should be eminently practical at f4 without getting too big for landscapes. Sharp across the frame at f4, with a focus on ...

It really depends on if you are getting true additional resolution, or are you just resolving more blur. Generally better lenses will give you more, but mostly in the center.

I went partially from Canon DSLR to fuji. For most uses it will be sufficient, but there are a few spots that are not all the way there yet. The XT-1 is nowhere near a good DSLR for wildlife. The ...