Paul De Bra

Indeed when you start from the premise that when the light is so dim you need to shoot with the lens wide open the corners won't matter because they will be dark... then indeed corner to corner ...

A so called "portrait" lens is not just for portraits. The example shot requires excellent side and corner sharpness. Sadly this shot is lacking in that sharpness. The used lens may be good for ...

The main reason for front- and backfocus problems with dslrs is that the AF sensors are separate from the imaging sensor. A slight misalignment of the (sub)mirror could make the AF sensors guide ...

WIth almost any lens you can capture sharp high-contrast edges, and if not then in post-processing there is a lot that sharpening routines can recover. But when low contrast details are lost due ...

For me at least, with a portrait priority number one is getting the subject in focus, including carefully prepared hair. Subject isolation is only a secondary priority. That is mainly a matter of ...

I'd say just stick with the good ol inexpensive Oly 45mm f/1.8, or for headshots the 75mm... or just use the 40-150 f/2.8 (or Pana 35-100 f/2.8) for flexibility. It depends on whether you want more ...

You could call it "light leak" between regions very close by, or also "clarity" of the lens. When light is dispersed to the close neighborhood this effect will mask small intensity differences ...

Did you mark down the serial number to make sure you did not just receive a replacement instead of a repair?

The lens cap offers the best protection. When actually shooting the lens hood (use the "new" one, not the one from the 9-18) offers the best protection without using a filter.

I read reports about some (but certainly not all) Canon repair centers being able to fix such issues in high-end L lenses. I have yet to read about any other great success stories. It is imperative ...

The 9-18 is a good ultra-wide to wide lens. Its image quality isn't outstanding (like the 7-14) but quite good nonetheless. The 12-50 is somewhat less good unless you get an exceptional copy. But ...

The 12-40 is by far my most used lens. I often need the f/2.8 in low light. The so called weakness at the long end is something I never noticed as at 40mm the lens is very sharp, but then I got ...

I have the Oly 7-14. I want everything f/2.8 (or faster) as I often have little light to work with. In good light you cannot expect better results than what you have shown here. So, no you won't ...

But having the three lenses and considering how often I have used them at larger aperture than f/4 I think I'll pass on the 12-100. The focal range is "to die for" but I think I have spent enough ...

Some of his "smearing" examples have nicely sharp verticals and slightly blurry horizontals. That's a clear sign of shutter shock and IS is never fast enough to compensate for it. I find IS to be ...

The filter you used makes the dark areas brighter and darkens the bright areas and the result is that in a wide area between the dark and bright there is a transition. The first image illustrates ...

When you compare the review with http://www.photozone.de/m43/827-olympus1250f3563ez of the Olympus 12-50 it becomes clear that people who were not so happy with the 12-50 (that includes me) were ...

I grabbed the 12-40 the minute it was available so I definitely have one from an early batch (some time in november 2013). No issues so far, but I will definitely continue to be careful.

I'm shooting with 8 and 16GB cards. I can see a purpose for 32 and 64 for people shooting a lot of video (which I rarely do). But I'd rather spread the risk of losing stuff in case of a ...

Before coming to m43 I was using the Canon EF-S system (first the 300D and later the 450D). There was never a TC for EF-S lenses.