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They also get in the way of the subject... ;-)
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Moving the center of gravity away from one's back will affect comfort and balance.
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Based on my experience with many lenses of similar FLs, SAB seriously underrated the Samyang 24 1.8 and the Tamron 70-300. A number of other lenses I'd say are underrated to a lesser degree ...
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It's good for just about anything that doesn't work better with wider apertures, FLs outside its range, 'magic' rendering (Loxia, etc.) or which needs extremely close focusing or TS functionality. ...
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I find that the Sony alpha blog often has useful information, but it sometimes has results which completely disagree with my own experience (in the sense of some excellent lenses being rated as ...
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I 'upgraded' from the Sony to the Tamron. The main reason was to save some weight, but I was also unimpressed by the Sony's rendering and pretty flat look. Result: with the Tamron I have more ...
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I'm happy with mine and it lives on my camera most of the time. The PZ isn't a deal breaker, though ideally I'd prefer a mechanical zoom. It's a more than acceptable price to pay for small size and ...
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I use a Mindshift Backlight 26 for the 200-600. I can fit the lens attached to the camera inside, but with the shade reversed. Some people claim that they can leave the shade on ready to shoot, ...
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I've used several similar thick neoprene straps, but find them too bulky when putting the camera back in a bag or backpack. I also usually wear my camera at my side with the strap across my chest, ...
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In the past I had the Canon EF 24 3.5 Mk. II. No complaints about quality, but I never used it because it was large & heavy. Some interesting options, if you would consider longer FLs, are; Canon ...
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If you don't shoot over 100, then a 70-200 or 70-300 doesn't seem to be in the running. Also a regular 85 or 100mm seem too close to the 70 to make sense when travelling light, unless you need ...
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While I like that lens a lot, I find it a bit cringeworthy that the Northrups also do... 😯
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Wide: Sony 16-35 4.0 PZ. Slightly wider and much more useful as a "normal" at 35mm. Light & compact, though more expensive. Powerzoom is basically a non-issue for me, though others could disagree. ...
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Don't forget the lens shade that "unclicks" and can come off (or worse, rotate a bit without being noticed and vignette the corners) if you barely touch it. To be fair, the other Loxias I have do ...
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I was very disappointed with my Loxia 35, especially considering how much I like my other Loxias (21, 25 & 85). Sharpness at wider apertures wasn't great and flare resistance too. After I'd used my ...
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+1 Cold won't damage your camera, but getting wet (condensation) certainly can! After such temperatures, bringing the camera inside to a warm, humid environment will cause condensation. Ideally, ...
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Many classic rangefinder lenses of those focal lengths will have some corner problems on full frame (color shifts - smearing). Not all, but a majority. I'd highly recommend having a look at Phillip ...
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After going through many lenses, the score for lenses returned because of uneven corners (tilting or decentering), after careful and accurate testing, is a tie between Samyang, Tamron and Sony ...
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Having both the Samyang 24 2.8 and 24 1.8, I'd definitely say go for the f/1.8 model, even though it's larger (still light though). My f/2.8 gets decently sharp stopped down a little, but colors & ...
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When I need to change a lens, I go to my special clean room, put on white overalls with foot covers, hat and face mask and veeeery slowly (so as not to create air currents), carefully swap lenses. ...
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