ninjagowoo

Nah, they tend to be slower (per price) and the adapter is just an additional point of failure.

Boost can consume battery but I usually just leave it on. If you get stuck in a pinch you can turn it off but AF and the EVF will be a bit slower/laggy. I would check the "pre-af" setting and make ...

You need not do anything at all except ensure that your camera gear is with you always as carry-on. Do not check anything - that is how gear gets coincidentally stolen lost by the airline ...

I have taken my 16-55 on many travels and it's always my first lens to pack. It is lighter (or at least easier) than a set of three primes and you don't have to change lenses. If you have a good ...

Clearly the only viable option is to buy a used T2 that includes the thumbrest :-P

+1 on the lensmate thumbrest if you can find one. If not, perhaps you could fashion your own bumper out of some silicone sheeting or similar material. You might also just see if the screw is ...

Thanks, guess I'll keep it on my upgrade list :-) I ended up getting a square hood for my old one which was much more practical as far as transport is concerned.

By any chance did you have the old 23f1.4? Any noteworthy differences?

Not really a full start from scratch... but as a part hobbyist and part gear enthusiast I'm always evaluating what I have & want. I absolutely hit the same "too much gear" point a while back and ...

All pluck foam is bad in my opinion but the stuff from these harbor freight boxes is worse than most. You could probably just cover the foam you already have though. The concern is more around the ...

I've had a number of these apache boxes from harbor frieght. Please be sure to water test them before relying on them since sometimes the seals do not sit right. I will also second the other ...

It's ok you can argue. Truth be told I'm about 50% sure I just had a dud (drop/decentered) given how many people are fine with the lens. I also ended up getting rid of my 35f2, but the point of my ...

I had a poor experience with the 23mmf2 and got rid of it rather quickly. I had it next to the 35f2 which was great, so like OP, I was confused why it could be so mediocre (at best). It's been a ...

I mapped IS mode to a button. Quickest way to remove the timer is to just turn camera off and on again.

Give XnViewMP a try (despite the terrible name). It's free for private use and is available on windows, mac, and linux: https://www.xnview.com/en/xnviewmp/#downloads.

It takes a while to get used to (coming from a dslr) but I find that just fully turning the camera off is faster than trying to "wake it up" when it goes into power saving mode. Flip the camera on ...

I was super unhappy with my 23F2, even stopped down past f2. I found it to be mediocre at the best of times. At this point I've just chalked it up to QC variation or something since so many others ...

I did once, ended up buying an a7r2 kit (back when that was recent). Ended up returning it because the difference just wasn't worth the cost, size, and losing the Fuji ergonomics/experience.  So ...

You are conflating aperture and t-values. Make sure you're actually comparing light transmission. Unfortunately I'm not aware of any resources that list the Fuji lenses by T value (let me know if ...

On my X-H1 with the 50-140 at 50mm and f2.8, the camera displays f4.0. I would check your firmware versions.