Tomx72

For daylight shooting, I have the luxury to cut the original (BG39) filter, which is especially in case of the EOS 6D very thin and surprisingly flexible - but that doesn't solve my ...

Glass is also available in all kind of sizes from Baader, but they are quite thick to mount behind the lens. Without a plastic alternative, I'll have a look though...

DXO values are measured with ICF on = absolutely no idea, how these sensors, freed from the ICF behave around H-alpha.

Thanks! The Wrattens appear to be glass-based, which is fine in front of the lens, but wouldn't put behind. (BTW sizable glas I can also fetch from Baader ) Interesting would be a tiny resign ...

I modded my EOS 6D to full-spectrum, and I'd like to continue to use my sigma Art 1.4/20 lens on it. This lens (and my other WA, the samyang 2.8/14 for that matter) doesn't have a filter thread. ...

You are right, that the DXO (DPR, etc) difference comes from the bigger lens area. Obivously, a given technology won't give you 2x the QE because you choose full frame. But, you still get 2x the ...

I' don't know, I don't see too much difference on these shots (same lens, same exposure), I have difficulties to tell the difference in limiting magnitude, the faintest of the faintest may really ...

Bit off-topic here, but is your 6D cooled? I would like to switch from D5100 to 6D and as an additional upgrade I want some sort of cooling, either a dry ice box or a cold finger, in theory there ...

I would start with a Baader 2" filterset, they have nice offering for both narrow and broad (LRGB), friendlier pricing than Astronomik.

Yeah, I am collecting information from all sources,  incl Stargazer & Cloudy forums. It is a tedious process I know, but something I would like to learn also for the future. So far I encountered ...

I would like to remove the Bayer CFA of my EOS 6D. I found 3 businesses doing that but they don't add an AR-coating on the shiny silicon (AR window they of course add, but that doesn't help taming ...

CentralDS and Maxmax are removing the CFA at a quite steep cost (much more expensive than a simple ICF removal). As for microlens-related loss: I suspect a large portion of that is reflection ...

Wonderful, they just saved me of wasting 3k$:)) This style - if delivers the same results as fewer long exposures - is a great help to all those, who don't start with a G11 level of mount & perfect ...

Yepp, I understand now :) Shame though, the a7s with the right firmware could be a real CCD-killer. High QE, huge full well capacity, lightweight + needs half the flange distance/backfocus...

The GF1 would be quite noisy, but the Oly should work, especially if you can add cooling as well. For know-how on the conversion, check lifepixel.

"Only"- yeah, that's what people do when doing astrophotography - as I wrote in the 1st post, that would be the main purpose of the body, No deal then. An astrophoto-body can be considered ...

I take it's not fixed then...

AFAIK the sony star eater works on the a7s too - we are still missing the true raw files -> great specs, nice little camera but no deal. Sorry, but at a price point of ~2k$ I am not making this ...

I am looking for a camera for astrophotography and the a7s with its crazy ISO performance is a candidate. However, AFAIK it doesn't do lossless or uncompressed RAW. I've seen astrophotographers ...

More pictures, how a CMOS sensor looks like under the electronmicroscope: http://1000wordpics.blogspot.ch/2013/02/nikon-d7000-sensor-cross-section-review.html