Ray Chen

Heh, I can careless about BoB, as I do not think they are important shots.  I'd rather be shooting base actions unless there's no one on base. :p

I have a 135mm TS-E, just what you need for this shot, assume you can compose, shift, and manual focus fast enough. Doesn't Sigma have 105mm f/1.4 and 135mm f/1.8 that fit your description?  I ...

LOL, I can usually get 2x BoB per game, so it is not too rare if if you get to shoot some batting. Again, it's all about timing, and FPS offers no help. Is motor drive useless? Not at all, but it ...

I totally agree with that, and I am always learning.

Sure, if you like to drain cards and batteries. Don't forget the shutter counts as well. :p Volleyball is fast, but it is generally predictable, other than I can't figure out why is a libero ...

The original 1D was a great camera for its era, and I too was late in getting the 1D2, and never had 1D3 or 1D4.  To make the matter worse, I had to compete with Nikon shooters and their D700 and ...

Thanks for baiting me, but I happen to shoot volleyball for real. Here is a shot to stand behind my comment. Trust me, at 12 FPS, it means you only have the chance to grab 2 frames of the ball in ...

My original statement is about the greater DoF control of the f/1.4 prime. When stopped down, the 35L has little advantage over modern zooms, such as the 16-35mm or 24-70mm.

I don't care what Scott will say, but the frame rate is the least important factor in getting that shot.

Yes, you were right that I had the camera for a while when the 200mm f/2 was available.  I had to shoot ISO 1600 (H was not pretty on that camera), and that's why f/2 was helpful. Never shot with ...

My go-to volleyball action lenses have been the 400mm f/2.8 and the 200mm f/2 for many years now. I also use a 100mm f/2 for wider shots, which I will replace with the 85mm f/1.4 this year.  I've ...

It seems to be a general pattern that Canon error on the underexposure side when doing ETTL flash metering.  I generally shoot with +1/3.  If you are working with darker skin tone, you might try ...

You should be using one shot AF mode and manually override the focus after AF lock (or failed to lock.)  Alternatively, separate AF from your shutter button with custom function setting, and AI ...

The 35mm prime is just like an average cellphone camera (FoV) with greater DoF control.  Ask yourself if you can live with that, and everything is a compromise. Meanwhile, I haven't owned a normal ...

I don't think you need *everything* to be sharp.  With a 14mm FoV, anything farther are relatively small, so you don't need much details.  Having said that, you should be able to manual focus and ...

I totally agree with your assessments on the lens.  There are advantages to bring out the large 400mm prime, but it is not due to sharpness.  One thing that bothers me about the 100-400mm II's ...

The 40mm pancake is one of the slowest focusing lenses.  I do like it small size, however.

Even if you were to get a fitted front filter, CPL is hard to use with the 17mm anyways due to the wider angle of view.  Unless Canon start building variable/exchangeable ND filter into their ...

I just bought a 77mm 10-stop ND filter recently, and I am not sure I have enough funds left to buy an 82mm one. ;)

I actually think the 70-200 is a very easy lens, handling wise. The 85mm is shorter but fatter. I would say if you are not longing for wide apertures, the 70-200mm zoom is a better and versatile ...