Yar1971

O.K. There are generaly two solutions: 1)  (probably it's Your case) If You want to use only MF (whatever, called from menu or by pulling back MF ring on 17/1.8lens). You have to enable ...

There's nothing unusual. You have  (fortunately) used fast glass for (dynamic) aurora. It's always worth to do so in this type of photography . This is why Your images were "sharp". Simply: usually ...

Hi! As others said, there's no "one travel solution", because people travel to see and photograph different things. The main question You have to answer to yoursel and to us is what range of focal ...

I wouldn't be sure.  First, this manual doesn't say that tolerance of Your camera is 250V! It says that some old flashgubs can have 250V at hot-shoe contacts. These are absolutely two different ...

P. 14/2.5 (I or II, no matter) has nothing to do with O. 17/2.8. Both a totallly different lenses, especially in the aspect of focal length. You may check their specifications (including optical ...

Eric, PEN E-PL series is O.K. travel camera. I have used about 8 years E-PL1 for this. Current models differ in that they have tilted LCD, may have intervalometer or at least option for remote ...

No. Someone may disagree, but even if it helps, just a little only. You refer probably to the important problem of frosting  while shooting and condensation after the session. Well, weather sealed ...

I had to be very brief in previous post, so I continue here ;) You can photo auroras with virtually any wide angle lens, but the criteria from my previous posts give You opportunity to use shorte ...

I've used personally for auroras P 14/2.5 (good for the task, but not recommend as optimal solution) and O 17/1.8. Some people used Samyang 12/2.0. Another choice is P 15/1.7 Solely for this task ...

...You have 17/1.8. That means You should probably go into 12mm FL. Really! That's my personal opinion, based on the fact, that I have both 14/2.5 and 17/1.8. I'm rather photographing ...

...unless You want to use smaller sensor area than full 4/3 sensor (like in Black Magic camera, crop modes of some Panasonic cameras). Severe (total black) circular vignetting is absolutely ...

I did ocassionally shoot some night photos (landscape or sky scape) in the dark with Oly cameras, so that's my tip: You should use MF with magnification tool (activate it if it's not a default ...

I followed that thread and want to support what others said, mainly (but not exclusively) JaKing and pocoloco: Your main problem is controlling shutter speed and handling the camera. Forget about ...

Well, it's normal. A lot of auroras in subpolar and polar regions are dim, colourless visually. Moreover, what You and others here say that they usually see colors at lower latitudes is also ...

And one important thing for tourist: long zoom + prime solution means almost no lens swapping. 80-90% (average) of my photo is from 14-150. On some trips even 100%. But a small prime is always ...

Hi, Breb! I really wish You to break with Your paradigm of choosing between FZ1000 II nad G90 + 14-140 only .  Maybe G90 with ultrazoom is really slightly better in low light than FZ1000, as some ...

Hi, whazzup I can't help with postprocessing, I'm virtually ignorant on it. But I wonder, why on Earth You have used extremally high ISO settings (6400-10000). ISO 800 would be probably enough. I ...

Thank You for sharing with us Your sad story from Your another (linked) thread. It's good warnig for others, pro publico bono. So let me copy here for the same purpose part of my general answear ...

No, it's nothing new. Weather sealed camera is not a waterproof camera. Serious leak in an outer underwater case is (like in OP's misfortune) just  partial submersion of the camera inside. With ...

@Max Iso, Trevor Carpenter and Breb too  ;) O.K., maybe I should be more specific here. Some assumptions to my previous statement: -low light -no flash -no tripod -mostly static scenes inside That' ...