PhotoTeach2

My typical (cost-efficient) prints were 24"x36" canvas from Costco ... (but not sure now since they are switching vendors). These were from 20mpx - 1"-type sensors, w/ no (noise, etc.) problems.

If you are totally satisfied w/ the envelope of your current dSLR, and feel no limitations, then I understand your sentiment. And I agree that dSLR's do have (2-3) advantages over MirrorLess (ML). ...

IMHO ... absolutely not !!! You even mentioned the possibility of "raccoon" eyes, (from bounce). Umbrellas are nice when shooting "close" (to soften the light), but only w/ a dedicated/fixed ...

Oh My Goodness ... please don't mention f/1.8 ... the "equivalence" masters will pounce. The dichotomy is they imply that such an (equivalence) f/stop can't allow "more" light/exposure, ...

This is NOT a situation for either bounce or a fixed-position flash. It is VERY problematic and begs to get inconsistent exposures/lightning-effects, (which should be your worse fear). Just use ...

What is your (TOTAL) budget, (for both camera and "all" lenses you might want) ??? And what exactly is the studio size, (what will be your "working-distance" from the camera/subject-you) ??? As ...

I am of the feeling a POLARIZER could indeed have possibly helped (to some extent). However, its biggest effect is at 90-degrees to the sun, and they have no effect shooting either into or away ...

First Camera ??? .... what other experience do you have ??? Traveling w/ lenses can be a hassle, and carrying/changing lenses takes time ... How big a priority is "high-ISO" ??? And what is your ...

I am sure they do, and I hope they do ... I seriously doubt they will be doing it with their "first" camera, (which is the most-often request here).

I agree ... However ... "Exposure" is used (and interpreted by beginners) it at least THREE different contexts. 1,) As above .. as light/unit-area 2.) In the context of exposure-"settings" 3.) ...

The bottom-line of all the above is that you buy a FF if LOW-LIGHT (and/or inherently shallow DOF) is your priority. And a smaller-sensor if speed & convenience (and cost) are priorities, (w/ ...

First you said this: Then you said this: If I could get sufficient exposure/lightness @ ISO-3200, I would possibly shoot all sensor-sizes at same exposure-settings (aka ISO-3200) --- UNLESS I ...

But they are directly related as we "fight-to-get-the-shot" w/sufficient-exposure (least noise) w/ necessary ISO (lightness). But usually in a negative way. But you very-very-very seldom want ...

I think "you" are ... If a beginner looks at (the TOP of a) FZ1000 lens, it says 25 to 400mm (EFL). If he looks at the front of the lens, he sees f/2.8-4 ... NOWHERE DOES HE SEE f/7.6-11, (except ...

But you are convoluting two different things. 1.) At base (or lower) ISO, low-light performance is mostly dependent on f/stop (and f/1.2 is 2+ stops faster than f/2.8). 2.) Noise is mostly ...

Of course it is not (a universal solution to all problens), but neither is FF/APS w/ (single FL) prime lens, (since most zooms start @ f/3.5-4). And none (under $1000-$2000) AF @ -4EV.

In low-light, you are just fighting to "get-thw-shot" (exposure/lightness). An (inhetently) shallow DOF is usually your worse problem and a FF-EFN can be an ADVANTAGE.

There ya go confusing beginners again ... for exposure/lightness considerations, it is f/2.8-4 . Without DOF, (and potentiallt noise), considerations, I could use the exact same exposure/lughtness ...

Specifically for low-lighr ??? Are you referring to their "Low-light composite" ??? (An interesting feature but not sure the same thing.) Well, the original FZ1000 (-4EV) was under $500 until the ...

That is NOT what many others say here that have actually experimented w/ the difference, especially w/ the "stacking" ability of the newer cell-phones, ( technology that both the FZ1000 & RX10-IV ...