PhotoTeach2

Lives in United States Sacramento, CA, United States
Joined on Apr 6, 2015
About me:

1957 = First clicks (Kodak Brownie) /// 1959 = first 35mm/flash + Weston Master /// 1964-66 = "official" photographer for Texas A&M Univ. /// 1984-99 = owned Photo-Lab, store, studio, weddings, etc. & conducted Photo-Workshops to Sedona AZ and Yosemite NP /// 2001-10 = taught photography ARC - 2001-10.

Experienced w/ 8mm-movie to 16mm-SPYcams through 35mm SLR & RangeFinder, MF and 4"x5".

Currently shooting w/ Panasonic FZ-1000.

PhotoTeach2's recent activity

  • Yes ... it is indeed your specific fault ... and "YOU" KILLED the dSLR. Be PROUD of your contribution to SOCIETY !!!
  • Replied in You choose
    HOW are you doing your bracketing ??? Does your camera do it automatically -- or are you manually changing shutter-speeds between each (3) separate shots ??? And why Shutter-Speeds instead of ...
  • WELCOME to the photography hobby ... I started in 1959. I suggest not getting locked into a "system" at this time because while photography has always been changing, it is taking dramatic "changes" ...
  • The only "real" camera is a Crown Graphic. It all been downhill since then, (except for the BEST EVER overall CAMERA ... FZ-1000 ). ALL cameras are compromises ... There are BOTH advantages and ...
  • The most SURPRISING thing I found is the number of NEW images I probably would NOT have taken if not for the convenience/SPEED of the "continuous" zoom. There simply had been many, many, many times ...
  • What is the difference between "protecting" and "managing" them ??? It can be the same thing, (w/ managing being more encompasing and include "protect"). And besides is not the overall purpose of ...
  • I understand your confusion and fear of future obsolescence. And I also admit "one" thing you would lose is (expensive) faster-prime. But the FZ has a Hand-Hold NIGHT-shot mode which works ...
  • I would not say to specifically "protect" highlights, (especially if you chose to let some specific ones "blow"). I would say to "manage" them, (since zebras allow seeing specific pixels/areas), or ...
  • OK ... fine ... I won't argue with your definition. BUT ... I also suggest "TO" the Right is exactly what is done w/ histogram or (more accurately "zebras"). It is also what is being done w/ simply ...
  • But even with a full-brightness range (DR), I still feel that simply being ETTR "aware" can benefit if you ensure the "highlights" are at a desired shift, (to the "right").  This is just normal ...
  • Replied in ?
    I suggest that with most normal DR scenes, little or NO PP (brightness). ALL of the photos I regularly post are SOOC, (using zebras to ETTR to 100%).  There are only a couple that could appreciably ...
  • But they may NOT be "to the right" if low-DR scene and setting in "manual" or (auto) EC setting to "0". So you may indeed have to make a conscious effort to guarantee appreciable curve shift to the ...
  • The D3400 is cheap (cheapest) because it is the most emaciated and limited. (The AF-lag in LiveView is over 2 FULL SECONDS -- you literally could not give me one -- and do you really want to be ...
  • I suggest that anyone/everyone that is going beyond simply shooting at "0" meter indicator, (or auto w/ "0" EC), is using ETTR to some degree . Anytime/everytime that you shift, (especially ...
  • Good Grief Bob .... comon now ... how is exposing "to" the right, (but beyond), NOT avoiding over-exposure ??? There is nothing about going "past" right in ETTR. (albeit one might choose that for ...
  • Well, wildlife us most commonly shot at standing/eye-level ... so not usually needed anyway. BUT ... I can also envision situations were FA-LCD can still come in handy.
  • But why not ... when "nested" it is just like any other camera.  And obviously was never an option w/ film. So why not if such a convenient option ??? But does not really add to the size/weight. An ...
  • Most you would not be specifically able to tell by the images, but I don't have to stand on chairs or kneel anymore, (getting too old for all that anyway).  I have done many over-the heads in groups. ...
  • If the "over" exposed image does not have any (important area) that are "saturated/blown", then you absolutely want to use that (+ -- lightest/brightest) image and "darken" it to your desired ...
  • I think you might me making a bigger deal of the "locking". It seems to me that is a physical-locking for TRANSPORTATION purposes. In other words, a "professional" camera must be physically able to ...
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