PhotoTeach2

7 (SEVEN) year-old post but here goes ... Welcome (7-SEVEN YEARS AGO) Good It will be focus-by-wire ring. Pick "1" Done ... (w/ smaller sensor) WHY NOT ... That is one of the main advantages of ...

Thank GOD .... I thought we were in for another 150-post thread on "equivalence" ...

Obviously, if you want to use all filters on all lenses, then the larger-size (plus step-rings) may be your only option. But, first of all, POLARIZERS are not always practical for Wide-Angle lenses ...

I "accidentally" realized the importance of dynamic-blur to illustrate movement when I was 12 and shot a photo of a helicopter @ 1/1000s. The blades were frozen and the photo looked like a "model" ...

Absolutely agree w/ low-sensitivity (and yellow). And remember the ONLY sharpest distance is in the "middle" of highlighted area, (so narrow is better).

What is your budget ... If you still want to do portraits I would suggest FF (used if on a low-budget). But bird-watching lenses can get (very) expensive on FF (or even DX/APS). The smallest-sensor ...

There are two different types of upgrades. The first is indeed an IQ upgrade ... but there have been numerous prior posts here over the years where no-one could tell the difference between ...

And exactly how many options and features would he lose, that he currently enjoys ???

I do not believe you used a ND filter for that shot ... (at least you didn't need to). Your exposure is "correct" for SUN-light (1/1600s @ f/4 @ ISO-100). And ND indeed WOULD be required w/ ILC & ...

But if ILC (Focal-Plane shutter), your max SS in 1/200-250s so already limited to f/11-16. True ... and raising ISO above 100 means f/22+ But many "beginners" here do not know the (SUN-light) ...

Actually, a bigger "capacitor" is main factor. I do agree a bigger battery would also be necessary for a faster recycle time and total shots possible.

Anyone can get a longer-distance flash w/ higher ISO "indoors". But at a sacrifice in IQ. And in SUN-light only ISO-100 is practically possible, (thus much shorter range), thus only a "leaf" ...

An excellent example of a SUN-light fill-flash only possible w/ "leaf" shutter. Not possible w/ any ILC w/ Focal-Plane shutter.

And "2" of each ... always need a back-up. Oh wait, you did mention "budget" ... never mind.

I agree but the flash (capacitor) would have to be considerably bigger to really make bounce truly useful. So again we are back to compromises and there are already complaints about the larger size ...

The problem w/ tilt-up (bounce) flash is that the distance is now the combined TOTAL distance from camera to ceiling and then back diagonally to the subject -- PLUS another 2-STOPS. So while the ...

All cameras/sensors/lenses are compromises. It won't be possible to get a lens (Equivalent-Focal-Length) as long as you currently enjoy with a larger sensor (for better IQ @ higher ISO's). You can ...

You are correct, often you do not want to stop all motion.  You need the dynamics. There is a time/place for both types of images.

I think your sharpest focus is in front of the bee. And even 1/1000s will not stop the wings ... (they are (very) fast. A flash might however since for close-up, some (auto) strobes can be 1/10,000 ...

There are two separate considerations of correct shutter speed. 1. For "stationary" subjects and hand-holding "camera" shake ... the traditional "rule" for the minimum SS was the reciprocal of the ...