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My typical (cost-efficient) prints were 24"x36" canvas from Costco ... (but not sure now since they are switching vendors). These were from 20mpx - 1"-type sensors, w/ no (noise, etc.) problems.
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If you are totally satisfied w/ the envelope of your current dSLR, and feel no limitations, then I understand your sentiment. And I agree that dSLR's do have (2-3) advantages over MirrorLess (ML). ...
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IMHO ... absolutely not !!! You even mentioned the possibility of "raccoon" eyes, (from bounce). Umbrellas are nice when shooting "close" (to soften the light), but only w/ a dedicated/fixed ...
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Oh My Goodness ... please don't mention f/1.8 ... the "equivalence" masters will pounce. The dichotomy is they imply that such an (equivalence) f/stop can't allow "more" light/exposure, ...
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This is NOT a situation for either bounce or a fixed-position flash. It is VERY problematic and begs to get inconsistent exposures/lightning-effects, (which should be your worse fear). Just use ...
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What is your (TOTAL) budget, (for both camera and "all" lenses you might want) ??? And what exactly is the studio size, (what will be your "working-distance" from the camera/subject-you) ??? As ...
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I am of the feeling a POLARIZER could indeed have possibly helped (to some extent). However, its biggest effect is at 90-degrees to the sun, and they have no effect shooting either into or away ...
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First Camera ??? .... what other experience do you have ??? Traveling w/ lenses can be a hassle, and carrying/changing lenses takes time ... How big a priority is "high-ISO" ??? And what is your ...
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I am sure they do, and I hope they do ... I seriously doubt they will be doing it with their "first" camera, (which is the most-often request here).
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I agree ... However ... "Exposure" is used (and interpreted by beginners) it at least THREE different contexts. 1,) As above .. as light/unit-area 2.) In the context of exposure-"settings" 3.) ...
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The bottom-line of all the above is that you buy a FF if LOW-LIGHT (and/or inherently shallow DOF) is your priority. And a smaller-sensor if speed & convenience (and cost) are priorities, (w/ ...
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First you said this: Then you said this: If I could get sufficient exposure/lightness @ ISO-3200, I would possibly shoot all sensor-sizes at same exposure-settings (aka ISO-3200) --- UNLESS I ...
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But they are directly related as we "fight-to-get-the-shot" w/sufficient-exposure (least noise) w/ necessary ISO (lightness). But usually in a negative way. But you very-very-very seldom want ...
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I think "you" are ... If a beginner looks at (the TOP of a) FZ1000 lens, it says 25 to 400mm (EFL). If he looks at the front of the lens, he sees f/2.8-4 ... NOWHERE DOES HE SEE f/7.6-11, (except ...
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But you are convoluting two different things. 1.) At base (or lower) ISO, low-light performance is mostly dependent on f/stop (and f/1.2 is 2+ stops faster than f/2.8). 2.) Noise is mostly ...
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Of course it is not (a universal solution to all problens), but neither is FF/APS w/ (single FL) prime lens, (since most zooms start @ f/3.5-4). And none (under $1000-$2000) AF @ -4EV.
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In low-light, you are just fighting to "get-thw-shot" (exposure/lightness). An (inhetently) shallow DOF is usually your worse problem and a FF-EFN can be an ADVANTAGE.
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There ya go confusing beginners again ... for exposure/lightness considerations, it is f/2.8-4 . Without DOF, (and potentiallt noise), considerations, I could use the exact same exposure/lughtness ...
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Specifically for low-lighr ??? Are you referring to their "Low-light composite" ??? (An interesting feature but not sure the same thing.) Well, the original FZ1000 (-4EV) was under $500 until the ...
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That is NOT what many others say here that have actually experimented w/ the difference, especially w/ the "stacking" ability of the newer cell-phones, ( technology that both the FZ1000 & RX10-IV ...
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