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I can't speak for everyone, but I'm not opposed to getting close sometimes. It provides an interesting perspective in my opinion.
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You can see settings at the top of my images. My quick method is: 1. Set aperture to provide adequate depth for subject(s). 2. Set shutter speed so that background meters around -1EV 3. Set ISO to 200.
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Everything Tom said above! I will add that a small, simple bounce flash will do wonders for any camera. The two images below are from an OM-1 taken back to back, one with flash, one without. This ...
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Harvey (awesome name), I refrained from commenting in the lead up to this shoot because I didn’t want to prejudice your experience with my opinion. That said, it appears you reached the same ...
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Between handheld high-res (HHHR) and tripod high-res (HR) my decision making process is trypically: (1) Resolution is the #1 priority: HR > HHHR (2) Noise is ...
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Heavy rains (rare here!) brought water levels in rivers and lagoons unusually high. I crossed paths with some egrets fishing in the flooded areas. They are entertaining to watch! Kicking myself for ...
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Hi Bob, Not sure I understand what you're seeing but this is my experience with generic C-AF+Tr on the OM-1. It appears "floaty" as I push the camera around but never loses subject. First scene is ...
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Sorry to hear about your troubles - lens issues can be frustrating and I've had my share! As someone else suggested, if the lens is under warranty, I would ask for a replacement after the first ...
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I use it both at the coast and for urban photography.
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The optics alone are worth it in my opinion. Wide open it is sharper across the frame than my 40-150/2.8 at any aperture. There is a little purple fringing on high contrast edges (chrome and ...
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Andrew, meet knickerhawk - one of the most informative, knowledgable, non-inflammatory and genuinely nicest members of DPR! :-) If you're smart, you'll pay attention when he posts. He doesn't post ...
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Thank you, very kind. I use the R5 for a bit of this and that. Event work with the 28-70 F2 and 70-200 F2.8. Those looks are hard to replicate with M43 in zooms. Occasionally some 8K video as ...
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It's a fun town to shoot - I will be there for work in a few weeks but not looking forward to January weather! The scene above I found perfect for high-res long exposure shot with the 12-100.
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That is not my experience. There is more detail in HHHR shots. The ORF's require a different approach to sharpening but even OOC JPG there is a noticeable difference.
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I appreciate the kind remarks. Sorry for not responding sooner, yesterday was an impromptu Disney day. This morning, I pulled some ordinary examples that might answer your tonality question. These ...
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I live and work at the beach. I use Olympus almost exclusively in that sand/saltwater environment. Examples: https://www.mitropoulos.photography/Orange-County/ I rinse the OM-D’s off with distilled ...
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Sounds like ideal conditions for high-res. Some examples: https://www.mitropoulos.photography/High-Res/ Can be on tripod (pixel shift) or handheld. Further reading: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/ ...
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I use all three. The Summilux-SL is my favorite rendering. I use it for studio, portraits and candid people shots. The S PRO is technically faultless. My only complaint is the OOF areas...
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I haven't attempted 30s yet but Will inspires me to try! I do have some 6 and 8 second shots at 25mm in wet sand. That's somewhere around 8-9 stops using the 1/FL rule of thumb.
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This might help. Scroll down to “Why do my HHHR shots look soft”. Hand-Held High Res: A Practical Guide
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