Akemi
Leading Member
None. If you get it right in the camera there is no need.
--
Akemi - The little Light in the Darkness.
--
Akemi - The little Light in the Darkness.
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What PP do you do most often
- Thread starter Mithandir
- Start date
John King
Forum Pro
Gidday Akemi
However, with digital, there is just the small issue of the AA filter ...
The camera will SHARPEN the image ( if one only shoots JPEG ... ).
However, USM and SHARPENING are two completely different processes - the only thing they have in common is the word "sharpen" in their respective names ... and no camera has the processing grunt to perform an USM ...
One needs the USM to properly rid oneself of the blur left from the AA filter, IMNSHO. Sharpening just doesn't cut the mustard as far as I am concerned ...
Just a thought, FWIW.
--
Regards, john from Melbourne, Australia.
-- -- --
The Camera doth not make the Man (or Woman) ...
Perhaps being kind to cats, dogs & children does ...
Gallery: http://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/main.php
Hints & Tips (temporary link, as under construction):
http://canopuscomputing.com.au/index.php?p=1_9
Bird Control Officers on active service.
Member of UK (and abroad) Photo Safari Group
Nice idea ... IF one is shooting film ... lol
However, with digital, there is just the small issue of the AA filter ...
The camera will SHARPEN the image ( if one only shoots JPEG ... ).
However, USM and SHARPENING are two completely different processes - the only thing they have in common is the word "sharpen" in their respective names ... and no camera has the processing grunt to perform an USM ...
One needs the USM to properly rid oneself of the blur left from the AA filter, IMNSHO. Sharpening just doesn't cut the mustard as far as I am concerned ...
Just a thought, FWIW.
--
Regards, john from Melbourne, Australia.
-- -- --
The Camera doth not make the Man (or Woman) ...
Perhaps being kind to cats, dogs & children does ...
Gallery: http://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/main.php
Hints & Tips (temporary link, as under construction):
http://canopuscomputing.com.au/index.php?p=1_9
Bird Control Officers on active service.
Member of UK (and abroad) Photo Safari Group
Rob MacLennan
Veteran Member
--
D620L -> D540 -> C750UZ -> E-500 -> E-510 -> E-3 + E-30
D620L -> D540 -> C750UZ -> E-500 -> E-510 -> E-3 + E-30
Rriley
Forum Pro
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copyright inserted into EXIF
distortion removed
WB, and exposure correction
noise removal
perspective correction
unsharp mask
we only publish to a little less than 6ft wide at most
A3 and A4 pretty much routine
--
ʎǝlıɹ
plɹoʍ ǝɥʇ ɟo doʇ uo ǝɹɐ ǝʍ 'ɐılɐɹʇsnɐ uı
distortion removed
WB, and exposure correction
noise removal
perspective correction
unsharp mask
we only publish to a little less than 6ft wide at most
A3 and A4 pretty much routine
--
ʎǝlıɹ
plɹoʍ ǝɥʇ ɟo doʇ uo ǝɹɐ ǝʍ 'ɐılɐɹʇsnɐ uı
olyflyer
Forum Pro
Paul321
Forum Enthusiast
Im a bit like a robot and have a routine.
1. Deleting pics i dont like.
2. Cropping.
3. Levels. / Gamma in exposure.
4. Hue/Saturation.
5. Contrast
6. I have a cloneing fettish. This may take some time.
7. Sharpening
8. Resize pic
These are my most common PP.
1. Deleting pics i dont like.
2. Cropping.
3. Levels. / Gamma in exposure.
4. Hue/Saturation.
5. Contrast
6. I have a cloneing fettish. This may take some time.
7. Sharpening
8. Resize pic
These are my most common PP.
tinternaut
Veteran Member
1. Level and crop if I must (I believe in filling the frame with the composition so I don't do this too often).
2. Sometimes (but not always) a little levels adjustment.
3. Slight boost to contrast.
4. Clarity (or definition as it's called in some tools).
5. Slight boost to saturation.
6. A little vibrancy.
7. Occasionally a H&S adjustment (usually to the highlights only).
8. Occasionally I'll shift the black point if shadows where the image doesn't need any detail look ugly (very rarely do this).
Now I've learned to use my work flow package (Apple Aperture in my case but I believe Lightroom does everything that it will do) a little more, I have a standard set of settings I apply to most images and then tweak the few that aren't quite right to me.
--
Regards
J
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jason_hindle
Gear in profile
2. Sometimes (but not always) a little levels adjustment.
3. Slight boost to contrast.
4. Clarity (or definition as it's called in some tools).
5. Slight boost to saturation.
6. A little vibrancy.
7. Occasionally a H&S adjustment (usually to the highlights only).
8. Occasionally I'll shift the black point if shadows where the image doesn't need any detail look ugly (very rarely do this).
Now I've learned to use my work flow package (Apple Aperture in my case but I believe Lightroom does everything that it will do) a little more, I have a standard set of settings I apply to most images and then tweak the few that aren't quite right to me.
--
Regards
J
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jason_hindle
Gear in profile
The consensus appears to be to change the OLY colors. Why is that?
p.s. I almost always change the OLY colors by desaturating green slightly.
--
http://www.efrench.members.winisp.net/
p.s. I almost always change the OLY colors by desaturating green slightly.
--
http://www.efrench.members.winisp.net/
Art_P
Forum Pro
For E-520 or E-500:
btw, camera is set noise filter off, sharpening and saturation at 0,. gradation normal
Probably could eliminate most PP by tweaking camera settings, but I like to see results of each step.
--
Art P
Select images may be seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sigvarius/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecropia_grove/
- scan images in Thumbs Plus, discard any trash.
- open image in TP, minor adjustments in saturation/contrast/gama, if needed
- drop in PSP X2
- NR if needed
- WB adjust, if needed, histogram adjustment, other tweaking
- sharpen (usually 'fix out of focus blur' plug-in from Focus Magic) if needed
- when I like the result, save as new file
- resize, very slight sharpen
- save as new file
- open in TP, save again, adjusting jpeg quality to yeald 200K file
btw, camera is set noise filter off, sharpening and saturation at 0,. gradation normal
Probably could eliminate most PP by tweaking camera settings, but I like to see results of each step.
--
Art P
Select images may be seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sigvarius/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecropia_grove/
Art_P
Forum Pro
Crop and rotate:
usually will do crop & rotate in TP before dropping into PSP
Why do I use TP anyway? well, I've used it for many years, and some things it just does faster or easier
but I find PSP does resizing better (less chance of jaggies) and works w plug-ins
--
Art P
Select images may be seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sigvarius/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecropia_grove/
usually will do crop & rotate in TP before dropping into PSP
Why do I use TP anyway? well, I've used it for many years, and some things it just does faster or easier
but I find PSP does resizing better (less chance of jaggies) and works w plug-ins
--
Art P
Select images may be seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sigvarius/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecropia_grove/
Bretzky
Well-known member
Several of you have mentioned straightening horizons. Is there free software that rotates an image less than 90 degrees without compromising the image quality? I've tried a couple such as Picassa and Picnik, but the image always looks worse after.
Timskis6
Veteran Member
Every image is different and unique, and I can't see why I'd apply the same PP to every image.
I simply go down the Develop Module pane in LR2 and do what's necessary.
Though my favorite thing to tinker with is color luminance. And I love masked sharpening.
--
Tim
'I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list.'
E3/E410/7-14/12-60/150/50-200/25/25/EC-14
http://www.flickr.com/photos/timskis6/
I simply go down the Develop Module pane in LR2 and do what's necessary.
Though my favorite thing to tinker with is color luminance. And I love masked sharpening.
--
Tim
'I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list.'
E3/E410/7-14/12-60/150/50-200/25/25/EC-14
http://www.flickr.com/photos/timskis6/
Charles Fisher
Well-known member
I had a E-500 for three and a half years and now have had a E-620 for just two months.
Here is my workflow, normally accomplished with iPhoto and Adobe Photoshop Elements (APE). Recently I also have been trying LightZone which uses a completely different paradigm than APE. Most of the time I send JPEGs to friends via e-mail or post web pages. I am running out of wall space for hanging pictures.
1. Organizing and deleting photos that I don't like (iPhoto). Now I do most of the deleting in camera on the E-620. I use iPhoto to identify faces and to assign places. I have "Smart Albums" that automatically update with specific "rules", e.g. photos that have both me and my partner in them.
2. Straighten the horizon (APE). This is less of a problem with the E-620.
2. Cropping, this includes aspect (APE). Sometimes 4:3 just isn't right. But I would be cropping more often if I had a camera with 3:2 aspect.
3. Levels (APE). This used to be necessary as I had set contrast to less than normal on the E-500. With the E-620 I use the "normal" settings and don't need to change the levels often.
4. Lighten shadows (APE). Now I try to shoot twice with Gradation set to "AUTO" and "NORMAL" with the E-620 and this seems to help.
5. Darken highlights, but rarely (APE). Now I am paying more attention to using "spot" metering and this helps with both the shadows and highlights.
5. Resize (APE). People don't like receiving twenty 8 MB JPEGs in their e-mail!
7. Sharpening (APE). Sharpen is the last thing I do before saving the image.
8. If I need to change something, I often revert to the original image and re-do. LightZone seems to be better than APE at this since there is a separate file with your editing steps and you can just modify those rather than starting over from scratch.
--
Chuck, retired near Barcelona
Here is my workflow, normally accomplished with iPhoto and Adobe Photoshop Elements (APE). Recently I also have been trying LightZone which uses a completely different paradigm than APE. Most of the time I send JPEGs to friends via e-mail or post web pages. I am running out of wall space for hanging pictures.
1. Organizing and deleting photos that I don't like (iPhoto). Now I do most of the deleting in camera on the E-620. I use iPhoto to identify faces and to assign places. I have "Smart Albums" that automatically update with specific "rules", e.g. photos that have both me and my partner in them.
2. Straighten the horizon (APE). This is less of a problem with the E-620.
2. Cropping, this includes aspect (APE). Sometimes 4:3 just isn't right. But I would be cropping more often if I had a camera with 3:2 aspect.
3. Levels (APE). This used to be necessary as I had set contrast to less than normal on the E-500. With the E-620 I use the "normal" settings and don't need to change the levels often.
4. Lighten shadows (APE). Now I try to shoot twice with Gradation set to "AUTO" and "NORMAL" with the E-620 and this seems to help.
5. Darken highlights, but rarely (APE). Now I am paying more attention to using "spot" metering and this helps with both the shadows and highlights.
5. Resize (APE). People don't like receiving twenty 8 MB JPEGs in their e-mail!
7. Sharpening (APE). Sharpen is the last thing I do before saving the image.
8. If I need to change something, I often revert to the original image and re-do. LightZone seems to be better than APE at this since there is a separate file with your editing steps and you can just modify those rather than starting over from scratch.
--
Chuck, retired near Barcelona
J
jkrumm
Guest
Seems like a lot, but I can do it in a minute or so, maybe less...
In Lightroom I often import raws with the "punch" preset,
Then go down the panel...
crop, straighten,
adjust exposure
contrast
lights, darks (like curves)
selective adjustments to exposure, contrast, saturation, clarity using the brush or grad tool
reduce vibrance if needed
reduce blue sat if needed
increase orange maybe since Oly jpegs seems to have brighter, more saturated oranges.
decrease yellow maybe (affects the greens)
set noise reduction, sharpening
export as jpeg
check in Picasa at full monitor brightness. Give it another "sharpen for web viewing" pass, possible contrast changes.
upload to Smugmug from Picasa.
If printing, undo Picasa changes usually, send to Qimage, sometimes reduce saturation significantly first to prevent "blown" colors in the print.
--
John Krumm
Juneau, AK
In Lightroom I often import raws with the "punch" preset,
Then go down the panel...
crop, straighten,
adjust exposure
contrast
lights, darks (like curves)
selective adjustments to exposure, contrast, saturation, clarity using the brush or grad tool
reduce vibrance if needed
reduce blue sat if needed
increase orange maybe since Oly jpegs seems to have brighter, more saturated oranges.
decrease yellow maybe (affects the greens)
set noise reduction, sharpening
export as jpeg
check in Picasa at full monitor brightness. Give it another "sharpen for web viewing" pass, possible contrast changes.
upload to Smugmug from Picasa.
If printing, undo Picasa changes usually, send to Qimage, sometimes reduce saturation significantly first to prevent "blown" colors in the print.
--
John Krumm
Juneau, AK
R Stacy
Veteran Member
Every camera is probably differerent, but my general routine with most E-1 images in order;
------------------------------
Of course Review; keep original and copy, discard the bad
In PS CS2 or (I still sometimes use PSE 3 don't like 5 and haven't bought more)
Usually 1st; Check/adjust levels.
Usually 2nd; Add saturation (slight), usually 2 or 3
Sometimes 3rd; adjust curves (sometimes just curves instead of levels)
Sometimes 4th; level and/or crop (or not)
Usually a low pass of USM (not much)
Upsize for print master
Downsize for web
I almost never sharpen, prefer USM for a finer overall tone but too much sharpening is always too obvious to me.
Sometimes I'll do a B&W copy either by desat or monochrome although I have not mastered the best tecnhique.
When I'm bored or feeling creative I'll mess around more with an image, but not too often.
--
When told the reason for Daylight Saving time the old Indian said... 'Only a white man would believe that you could cut a foot off the top of a blanket and sew it to the bottom of the blanket and have a longer blanket.'
------------------------------
Of course Review; keep original and copy, discard the bad
In PS CS2 or (I still sometimes use PSE 3 don't like 5 and haven't bought more)
Usually 1st; Check/adjust levels.
Usually 2nd; Add saturation (slight), usually 2 or 3
Sometimes 3rd; adjust curves (sometimes just curves instead of levels)
Sometimes 4th; level and/or crop (or not)
Usually a low pass of USM (not much)
Upsize for print master
Downsize for web
I almost never sharpen, prefer USM for a finer overall tone but too much sharpening is always too obvious to me.
Sometimes I'll do a B&W copy either by desat or monochrome although I have not mastered the best tecnhique.
When I'm bored or feeling creative I'll mess around more with an image, but not too often.
--
When told the reason for Daylight Saving time the old Indian said... 'Only a white man would believe that you could cut a foot off the top of a blanket and sew it to the bottom of the blanket and have a longer blanket.'
WirenL
Senior Member
using LR2 only. after importing RAW's, I .....
1. Crop & Level Horizons
2. Decide on conversion to B/W, Sepia or leave as color
3. adjust for recovery on highilights
4. add fill light if needed
5. bump contrast if needed
6. usually nudge vibrance +4 and sat. +8
7. Sharpen if needed
8. Adjust for NR
9. A lot of times I do a post crop vignette of -10 & 40 of the first two options
export and enjoy
Lee
--
I'm technically not a 'qualified professional photographer', but I play one online.....
1. Crop & Level Horizons
2. Decide on conversion to B/W, Sepia or leave as color
3. adjust for recovery on highilights
4. add fill light if needed
5. bump contrast if needed
6. usually nudge vibrance +4 and sat. +8
7. Sharpen if needed
8. Adjust for NR
9. A lot of times I do a post crop vignette of -10 & 40 of the first two options
export and enjoy
Lee
--
I'm technically not a 'qualified professional photographer', but I play one online.....
irmo
Forum Enthusiast
Becouse I shot RAW! with 0 sharping ....
The second most is tonality,WB (sometimes in LAB)
than noise removal, resize and again sharpening.
But I like to play with pictures I can easy work for 4h with just 1 shot ....
The second most is tonality,WB (sometimes in LAB)
than noise removal, resize and again sharpening.
But I like to play with pictures I can easy work for 4h with just 1 shot ....
martinus2u
Leading Member
I'll try to stay as close to classical film processing as possible.
1. rotation & crop
2. curves
3. resize for intended purpose
4. USM for intended purpose
Only very occasionally do I clone out things. Re-touching (as derived from the French "retoucher") used to be part of classical photo processing as well, so I feel it is permissible if done sensibly. ;-)
All other stuff based on complex software algorithms, including the gruesome HDR effects, is a definit no-no in my processing manual. At least when the intention is to call the result "photography". Otherwise, anything goes.
Martin
--
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1. rotation & crop
2. curves
3. resize for intended purpose
4. USM for intended purpose
Only very occasionally do I clone out things. Re-touching (as derived from the French "retoucher") used to be part of classical photo processing as well, so I feel it is permissible if done sensibly. ;-)
All other stuff based on complex software algorithms, including the gruesome HDR effects, is a definit no-no in my processing manual. At least when the intention is to call the result "photography". Otherwise, anything goes.
Martin
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signature valid without signature
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