GXR any good?

[Tom Caldwell]

The Q is dead, and Ricoh/Pentax said to send to Precision Camera for repair.

Tina,

Are all your Pentax Q batteries about the same age? I have found that some batteries - especially little ones like the Q uses seem to die with age (and simultaneously). Worth a try if you can find someone local who has a "good" battery you can test.

I am not sure if you can find one in a shop near you at a half reasonable price to try "on spec".

 

[ANAYV]

Question about the M mount:

Is it (module) limited to Leica Glass, or can it use other lenses?

I have no Leica glass, nor can afford any, but wouldn't mind buying some older lenses from other companies, to try out, if it's possible.

There is a wealth of legacy glass that can be used with the correct adapter. For budget but quality rangefinder glass I'd recommend the Canon LTMs along with a LTM to M adapter. Voigtlanders LTM and M lenses are very good to. With the right adapter you can use old manual SLRs lenses as well. As has been mentioned the thing to look for is that both aperture and focus can be set manually. One type to look at is the legacy Pentax M42 mount glass. Choices here at all prices.

I'm biased, but I'd agree that the M mount module will be considered a "classic". Just wish Ricoh would make a new version (*ducks*)

cheers

Al

Thanks for the info, Al.

M mount seems pricy, at the moment, and I never did shoot with any SLR, nor manual focus.

But nice to know, and perhaps one day, I will venture out and try it.

Just received my GXR and A16, with the S10 lensor, as well.

I am hoping the A16 is up to the I.Q of my GR. That would be sweet.

ANAYV

 

[N Desmond]

The Q is dead, and Ricoh/Pentax said to send to Precision Camera for repair.

Tina,

Are all your Pentax Q batteries about the same age? I have found that some batteries - especially little ones like the Q uses seem to die with age (and simultaneously). Worth a try if you can find someone local who has a "good" battery you can test.

I am not sure if you can find one in a shop near you at a half reasonable price to try "on --
Tom Caldwell

Tom, that's interesting. You know, the batteries are all the same age, three Pentax and one Wasabi. A camera store near me had sold Pentax and Ricoh but no longer mention on their website. Think I will call and see if they carry but don't advertise. If they do, maybe they have spare battery to check. I will somehow find one to try.

Not keen on pitching my Q back even though I probably could buy a replacement for less than repairing, especially through Precision Camera. Found a camera repair service in Massachusetts that works on Pentax digital and they are willing to take a look at it. They only repair cameras and have being doing for a long time and get good reviews. After they examine, if I don't want them to do repair, the estimate is $25.

Good strategy to check with new battery before sending for repair. This camera sat on the shelf for a while, so maybe batteries lost their charge. Thanks, Tom!

 

[Tom Caldwell]

The Q is dead, and Ricoh/Pentax said to send to Precision Camera for repair.

Tina,

Are all your Pentax Q batteries about the same age? I have found that some batteries - especially little ones like the Q uses seem to die with age (and simultaneously). Worth a try if you can find someone local who has a "good" battery you can test.

I am not sure if you can find one in a shop near you at a half reasonable price to try "on --
Tom Caldwell

Tom, that's interesting. You know, the batteries are all the same age, three Pentax and one Wasabi. A camera store near me had sold Pentax and Ricoh but no longer mention on their website. Think I will call and see if they carry but don't advertise. If they do, maybe they have spare battery to check. I will somehow find one to try.

Not keen on pitching my Q back even though I probably could buy a replacement for less than repairing, especially through Precision Camera. Found a camera repair service in Massachusetts that works on Pentax digital and they are willing to take a look at it. They only repair cameras and have being doing for a long time and get good reviews. After they examine, if I don't want them to do repair, the estimate is $25.

Good strategy to check with new battery before sending for repair. This camera sat on the shelf for a while, so maybe batteries lost their charge. Thanks, Tom!

Just a thought, I tend to bring out old favourites from time to time to re-live the magic. I also tend to buy a few batteries with a new camera. Sometimes I find several already flat batteries among those not having been used for a while. Even when recharged an ostensibly "full" they can run for "5 minutes" and be flat again. It seems a lottery.

Some of the Ricoh cameras - most notably the R8/10 and early CX models had a habit of dying in mid-flight with lens extended. If a fresh (separate) battery was inserted within a few hours it could usually be coaxed back to life - it worked 100% for me but others who might have left the rescue longer did not always have success. The only reason for this problem that makes sense was that from the R6 ricoh used a smaller capacity battery and from the R8 it went over to a high-res lcd but continued with the smaller battery. Maybe the cameras simply could not cope with a session of heavy use?

This is not your problem of course as the Q has a relatively low res screen and has died after not being used for a while.

I am no electronics expert but as far as I understand the cameras have a capacitor that stores such system information as date etc whilst batteries are exchanged. Normally the charge is kept up in the capacitor by the replaceable battery but if the camera is left left with flat battery for long enough then the capacitor will lose its charge as well. How you coax enough juice into the capacitor to restart the camera might be the real problem. Capacitors can also fail.

--
Tom Caldwell

 

[Tom Caldwell]

Question about the M mount:

Is it (module) limited to Leica Glass, or can it use other lenses?

I have no Leica glass, nor can afford any, but wouldn't mind buying some older lenses from other companies, to try out, if it's possible.

There is a wealth of legacy glass that can be used with the correct adapter. For budget but quality rangefinder glass I'd recommend the Canon LTMs along with a LTM to M adapter. Voigtlanders LTM and M lenses are very good to. With the right adapter you can use old manual SLRs lenses as well. As has been mentioned the thing to look for is that both aperture and focus can be set manually. One type to look at is the legacy Pentax M42 mount glass. Choices here at all prices.

I'm biased, but I'd agree that the M mount module will be considered a "classic". Just wish Ricoh would make a new version (*ducks*)

cheers

Al

Thanks for the info, Al.

M mount seems pricy, at the moment, and I never did shoot with any SLR, nor manual focus.

But nice to know, and perhaps one day, I will venture out and try it.

Just received my GXR and A16, with the S10 lensor, as well.

I am hoping the A16 is up to the I.Q of my GR. That would be sweet.

ANAYV

I took the opportunity of setting myself up with a few M mount modules - I bet on them becoming a classic and the prize among the GXR modules. I am not going to sell them - I presume that other M mount owners feel the same way.

The A16 module surprised me. Its images are very good, they have their own "look".

The two small sensor zooms are excellent example of small sensor cameras but at the time everyone wanted a very small camera to make up for the small sensor size (ie small, cheap and "lightweight" capability as opposed to big features in a compact common camera series). They therefore didn't set the world market on fire. However these "cameras" were probably the best small sensor zoom cameras ever made.

That this was not generally recognised was a pity.

 

[N Desmond]

I was interested in the GXR when it was full price but determined I could not afford. I ended up with GRDIV and a couple other compact cameras, but the GXR was always the camera that got away. When it was discontinued, I began cobbling together a body, M unit, 50mm unit, a second body, then the 28mm and, eventually, the A16 zoom with body. Finally even got the S zoom unit and a flash. Some units and backs were second hand and some new, but all were found at affordable prices and in perfect condition.

I am far from a pro and will never need the latest issue. And while I have fumbled and been frustrated in learning different cameras I purchased, I love the Ricoh layout and ergonomics, and the GXR is no exception.

I, too love their design...my first was the GR (APS-C sensor)

I had used a bare bones film SLR for 30 yrs, and struggled to adapt to digital. Ricoh cameras alone helped me become comfortable with the digital format. I eventually was curious as to the differences of GR to GRD and purchased. It's a great little camera. I even purchased a GX100 in the past year and have enjoyed playing with that as well. They are all different but FUN and I am pleased with the images I capture with these cameras.

I came from a digital camera background. I did use film, but only for occasional snapshots, and had cheapo cameras (110 film, Kodak Disc, Polaroid)

I still love the GXR and have no plans to replace. And while some may think the body and A16 zoom lens is bulky, by no means is it difficult for me to carry in my hand with a wrist strap. And the 50mm unit is terrific as well. I haven't played much with the S unit to give an honest opinion, but my initial testing was positive.

Sounds good. I have ordered the A16. Was worried that it's too big, but fell better after reading your comments.

I am finally ready to let my husband have my Panasonic LX7 if he wants it, as I find it absolutely maddening to go back and forth from any of the Ricohs to the Panasonic.

I am a big Panasonic fan. I owned the LX7...really liked it, but soon after buying the GR, I hardly used it...so sold it

I also have a Panasonic ZS20 that was a freebie,

Gave mine to a fried two months ago. Also had the ZS30 (cant find it) and 4 previous ZS/TZ's

and he can have that as well. The only one I haven't decided about is the original Pentax Q with 50mm prime, but after playing with that for a week recently, it now suddenly won't turn on with fresh batteries . . . Must have known it was possibly on the chopping block and caved under pressure.

Hahaha

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, as I wait for the GXR and lenses to come.

Tempted to buy the EVF for it, as I type

ANAYV

Used my GXR and A16 unit with tripod the other night to take photos in a cemetery. Have little experience with "painting with light" in dark, only in classroom setting. Realized afterward how I could improve process of framing image in pitch dark and more evenly light stones, but the whole process was a great learning experience.

 

[photoreddi]

...

I am no electronics expert but as far as I understand the cameras have a capacitor that stores such system information as date etc whilst batteries are exchanged. Normally the charge is kept up in the capacitor by the replaceable battery but if the camera is left left with flat battery for long enough then the capacitor will lose its charge as well. How you coax enough juice into the capacitor to restart the camera might be the real problem. Capacitors can also fail.

Most Li-Ion batteries have protective circuits that prevent them from taking a charge if their voltage drops too low, such as if they're left unused for many months to a year or longer. When that happens the internal capacitor (sometimes it's a small rechargeable battery) keeps the camera's internal clock/calendar running and protects volatile memory.

If it's an inexpensive capacitor it might only give the camera protection for a few minutes or hours, more than enough time to replace the main battery. If it's a 'super cap.' or a rechargeable battery it can provide protection for a lot longer, up to a month or so. I've had several cameras that were left unattended for so long that their batteries were killed and it seemed that the cameras died with the batteries, but not so. What happened was that when a good, fresh battery was put in the camera, the camera still appeared to be totally dead, but what was actually happening was that the internal 'super cap' or rechargeable battery was slowly being recharged by the new main battery and until it was sufficiently recharged, it prevented the camera from coming to life. But after about 30 minutes or so it had reached the point where the camera would finally be able to power on again. To be fully charged, enough to provide another 30 days or so of protection, would take another day or two, but at this point the cameras were fully functional again.

I had an old Nikon (the 3mp Coolpix 990) internal rechargeable battery eventually died so every time the 4 AA batteries had to be replaced, the time and date would be lost and many of the camera's menu settings would be lost. Very expensive in its day but not a fun camera to use after the internal battery died.

Street price == $900

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikoncp990

.

From its manual :

The batteries can be removed without affecting photographs stored on
the camera’s memory card. All M-REC settings except date and language
will, however, be reset.
The camera’s clock-calendar is powered by a separate rechargeable battery.
When you put batteries in your camera for the first time or after a
long period of storage, wait a few hours for the clock battery to recharge
before removing the main batteries.

This camera had no problem starting up even after the internal battery died but several other cameras did have this problem, including several of Nikon's old entry level DSLRs, such as the D40.

 

[Tom Caldwell]

...

I am no electronics expert but as far as I understand the cameras have a capacitor that stores such system information as date etc whilst batteries are exchanged. Normally the charge is kept up in the capacitor by the replaceable battery but if the camera is left left with flat battery for long enough then the capacitor will lose its charge as well. How you coax enough juice into the capacitor to restart the camera might be the real problem. Capacitors can also fail.

Most Li-Ion batteries have protective circuits that prevent them from taking a charge if their voltage drops too low, such as if they're left unused for many months to a year or longer. When that happens the internal capacitor (sometimes it's a small rechargeable battery) keeps the camera's internal clock/calendar running and protects volatile memory.

If it's an inexpensive capacitor it might only give the camera protection for a few minutes or hours, more than enough time to replace the main battery. If it's a 'super cap.' or a rechargeable battery it can provide protection for a lot longer, up to a month or so. I've had several cameras that were left unattended for so long that their batteries were killed and it seemed that the cameras died with the batteries, but not so. What happened was that when a good, fresh battery was put in the camera, the camera still appeared to be totally dead, but what was actually happening was that the internal 'super cap' or rechargeable battery was slowly being recharged by the new main battery and until it was sufficiently recharged, it prevented the camera from coming to life. But after about 30 minutes or so it had reached the point where the camera would finally be able to power on again. To be fully charged, enough to provide another 30 days or so of protection, would take another day or two, but at this point the cameras were fully functional again.

Thanks for that information - I was stumbling about in an area where I had a little knowledge but not really enough to be properly able to understand and advise ....

My early camera was a Canon Pro90 IS which was a button cell battery as backup but was a very devil to find to replace. It was in the main battery compartment but its little holder was camouflaged so well that it was hard to see its exact location - even when I knew it was there.

As far as I know no Ricoh camera has a backup battery that is why I have assumed a capacitor of some sort. Maybe in some way linked up to doing double duty with the flash unit?

I had an old Nikon (the 3mp Coolpix 990) internal rechargeable battery eventually died so every time the 4 AA batteries had to be replaced, the time and date would be lost and many of the camera's menu settings would be lost. Very expensive in its day but not a fun camera to use after the internal battery died.

Street price == $900

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikoncp990

.

From its manual :

The batteries can be removed without affecting photographs stored on
the camera’s memory card. All M-REC settings except date and language
will, however, be reset.
The camera’s clock-calendar is powered by a separate rechargeable battery.
When you put batteries in your camera for the first time or after a
long period of storage, wait a few hours for the clock battery to recharge
before removing the main batteries.

This camera had no problem starting up even after the internal battery died but several other cameras did have this problem, including several of Nikon's old entry level DSLRs, such as the D40.

--
Tom Caldwell

 

[photoreddi]

...

My early camera was a Canon Pro90 IS which was a button cell battery as backup but was a very devil to find to replace. It was in the main battery compartment but its little holder was camouflaged so well that it was hard to see its exact location - even when I knew it was there.

I had several Canon cameras that used lithium coin/button batteries. The last was a Powershot 590IS and it also was hidden in the battery compartment. My older Powershots (S10 and S20) had their own compartment on the side of the camera so they were much easier to get to. I wish that all of my cameras had replaceable lithium coin batteries. When internal backup batteries or capacitors die it's usually either nearly impossible to get them replaced and in the unlikely event that they can be, it's probably not cost effective to do so.

.

As far as I know no Ricoh camera has a backup battery that is why I have assumed a capacitor of some sort. Maybe in some way linked up to doing double duty with the flash unit?

No, the flash capacitor may be huge but it wouldn't do double duty as a backup voltage source. They're extremely high voltage aluminum electrolytic capacitors, usually operating between 300v and 500v so it would be extremely risky tapping off some of that voltage, diverting it anywhere near the camera's circuit board that has the clock/calendar and volatile memory. Those electrolytic capacitors are also very leaky so they wouldn't provide enough voltage (on the other side of a voltage divider circuit) to supply enough voltage for weeks or longer.

A diversion :

Kevin Attempts to Abuse a Strobe
(This from: Kevin 'Destroyer of Worlds' Horton ([email protected]))

Just for funsies, I decided to see how much torture I could inflict on the flashlamp and energy storage capacitor from one of those little Kodak cameras. The tube was 1.2" long, in a metalized plastic reflector, with a thin metal backing to hold it in. The capacitor was 120 uf, 330 V. I hooked it up to my inverter (12 V->300 V at high current) and fired 'er up! Pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, (turn up trigger oscillator frequency) popopopopopopopopopopopop! It was firing about 30 or 40 times a second; it appeared as it was constantly on! I turned it down to about 15 flashes a second, and let it run. First thing I noticed was that wonderful scent of melting acrylic. Then, I noticed that the tube was kind of skewed in the reflector. The plastic was in full smoke-mode by this point. Still, the tube kept firing! (Let's see: 5 W-s times 15 flashes per second is 75 W average power, not bad for an itty bitty tube --- sam).

I left it on a bit more, and the plastic really started the smoke-signals! I noticed that one electrode was glowing cherry red. Even after all this torture, it kept going! The smoke was getting too much, so I hit the 'off' on my inverter. A few more gouts of smoke, and the little fire I created was extinguished. I let it cool down and then I examined the damage. The reflector was totaled; the tube had all but melted clean through. When I touched it, the little metal plate popped off.

On closer examination, the tube appeared to be in good shape. I couldn't see any visible damage to either the electrodes, or the glass seals. A quick test reveals that the tube still functions. As a side note, the storage capacitor got quite hot; probably around 35 degrees C. All in all, an interesting test, I must say. The next will involve connecting up a normal NE2 neon bulb and observing the results of high voltage and high current on it. I suspect it will be quite spectacular, so I'm taking precautions - It will be performed in a proper enclosure, so if the neon decides to really go 'pop', it won't do any damage.

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/strbfaq.htm

.

Even though Ricoh may not use end user replaceable batteries, there's no reason why Ricoh's internal, non-removable backup couldn't be either a capacitor or a rechargeable battery. As the quote below shows, the Coolpix 990 uses a rechargeable backup battery and it's soldered to an internal circuit board and can't be replaced. The one in my CP990 died and as a result, there's no way I can replace its 4AA batteries quickly enough to prevent the camera from losing its volatile memory and its time and date.

.

I had an old Nikon (the 3mp Coolpix 990) internal rechargeable battery eventually died so every time the 4 AA batteries had to be replaced, the time and date would be lost and many of the camera's menu settings would be lost. Very expensive in its day but not a fun camera to use after the internal battery died.

Street price == $900

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikoncp990

.

From its manual :

The batteries can be removed without affecting photographs stored on
the camera’s memory card. All M-REC settings except date and language
will, however, be reset.
The camera’s clock-calendar is powered by a separate rechargeable battery.
When you put batteries in your camera for the first time or after a
long period of storage, wait a few hours for the clock battery to recharge
before removing the main batteries.

This camera had no problem starting up even after the internal battery died but several other cameras did have this problem, including several of Nikon's old entry level DSLRs, such as the D40.

 

[N Desmond]

...

I am no electronics expert but as far as I understand the cameras have a capacitor that stores such system information as date etc whilst batteries are exchanged. Normally the charge is kept up in the capacitor by the replaceable battery but if the camera is left left with flat battery for long enough then the capacitor will lose its charge as well. How you coax enough juice into the capacitor to restart the camera might be the real problem. Capacitors can also fail.

Most Li-Ion batteries have protective circuits that prevent them from taking a charge if their voltage drops too low, such as if they're left unused for many months to a year or longer. When that happens the internal capacitor (sometimes it's a small rechargeable battery) keeps the camera's internal clock/calendar running and protects volatile memory.

If it's an inexpensive capacitor it might only give the camera protection for a few minutes or hours, more than enough time to replace the main battery. If it's a 'super cap.' or a rechargeable battery it can provide protection for a lot longer, up to a month or so. I've had several cameras that were left unattended for so long that their batteries were killed and it seemed that the cameras died with the batteries, but not so. What happened was that when a good, fresh battery was put in the camera, the camera still appeared to be totally dead, but what was actually happening was that the internal 'super cap' or rechargeable battery was slowly being recharged by the new main battery and until it was sufficiently recharged, it prevented the camera from coming to life. But after about 30 minutes or so it had reached the point where the camera would finally be able to power on again. To be fully charged, enough to provide another 30 days or so of protection, would take another day or two, but at this point the cameras were fully functional again.

I had an old Nikon (the 3mp Coolpix 990) internal rechargeable battery eventually died so every time the 4 AA batteries had to be replaced, the time and date would be lost and many of the camera's menu settings would be lost. Very expensive in its day but not a fun camera to use after the internal battery died.

Street price == $900

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikoncp990

.

From its manual :

The batteries can be removed without affecting photographs stored on
the camera’s memory card. All M-REC settings except date and language
will, however, be reset.
The camera’s clock-calendar is powered by a separate rechargeable battery.
When you put batteries in your camera for the first time or after a
long period of storage, wait a few hours for the clock battery to recharge
before removing the main batteries.

This camera had no problem starting up even after the internal battery died but several other cameras did have this problem, including several of Nikon's old entry level DSLRs, such as the D40.

This is all very helpful. Thank you.

Apologies to ANAYV for this slight digression to GXR topic!

 

[you-ve-got-mail]

of all my cameras ...

i use the gxr m mount combination still the most
terrific zeiss glass with great easy to use interface

also the a16 delivers nicely for the price tag

wish the ricoh would make a gr2 m mount system camera ...
preorder guaranteed

regards,
ulrich

 

[AHPhotos]

of all my cameras ...

i use the gxr m mount combination still the most
terrific zeiss glass with great easy to use interface

also the a16 delivers nicely for the price tag

wish the ricoh would make a gr2 m mount system camera ...
preorder guaranteed

regards,
ulrich

Hmmm a GR m mount system would be fantastic. My breath I'm not going to hold, but nice to daydream

 

[ANAYV]

I took the opportunity of setting myself up with a few M mount modules - I bet on them becoming a classic and the prize among the GXR modules. I am not going to sell them - I presume that other M mount owners feel the same way.

The A16 module surprised me. Its images are very good, they have their own "look".

Can't wait to try it out. Fall colors coming within next two months.

The two small sensor zooms are excellent example of small sensor cameras but at the time everyone wanted a very small camera to make up for the small sensor size (ie small, cheap and "lightweight" capability as opposed to big features in a compact common camera series). They therefore didn't set the world market on fire. However these "cameras" were probably the best small sensor zoom cameras ever made.

That this was not generally recognised was a pity.

From what I've read, there is too much smearing of detail with these lensors.

I'd guess RAW will eliminate that.

Just bought an IR lensor, too! (24 to 72mm)

ANAYV

 

[anthony mazzeri]

BTW , I just ordered a GXR with S10, and also the A16 24 to 85mm . I probably should of bought the GXR with the P10 , but version with S10 was $30 less, and didn't plan on buying the A16, til yesterday.

Might try out a S10'modified for IR, too.

Thanks

ANAYV

You won't actually be missing much by forgoing the P10. I did a comparison a while back between images from the P10 and cropping images from the larger APSC-sensor A12-50mm to match. Even cropped in mightily to a small central portion of the image to match the 300mm zoom, the cropped A12 still delivered slightly more sharpness and detail than the P10.

So in practice if you really need a tight zoom on something you're much better off anyway using the A16 24-85mm and cropping as needed instead of opting for a P10.

And just last weekend I was looking over my GXR pictures over the last few years and surprised myself that some of my favourites are actually with the S10.

 

[snorthup]

I couldn't agree more. The GXR is a unique camera, and not for everyone. However for those with some old Leica glass this is a truly wonderful tool. You have to be a photographer, not a camera operator. Set your chosen f/stop, set your focus, consider the image. I wish Richo would follow up with a GXR II, this one with a fixed M mount. But, sadly, the market rules, and we've probably seen the last of this one.

 

[ANAYV]

This is all very helpful. Thank you.

Apologies to ANAYV for this slight digression to GXR topic!

No problem. Glad you received the info you needed.

The Coolpix 990 was a unique camera, with good macro, from what I recall

ANAYV

 

[Tom Caldwell]

My own little "experience" was with an earlier model GRD - must have been the original.

I decided to make my own little insertable cardboard flash bouncer. Fitted in quite well.

The flash obviously fed back through the lens in one form or another for metering - I don't think it was true TTL but something similar.

In the end the flash lit up not only the ceiling but virtually the whole room and went "crack!" rather noisily. It did not actually emit flames or smoke but discretion required not to try and repeat the process. .....

 

[Tom Caldwell]

of all my cameras ...

i use the gxr m mount combination still the most
terrific zeiss glass with great easy to use interface

also the a16 delivers nicely for the price tag

wish the ricoh would make a gr2 m mount system camera ...
preorder guaranteed

regards,
ulrich

Add me to the list - how about crowd funding - I guess we can have a crowd of three by the end of the week ......

--
Tom Caldwell

 

[Tom Caldwell]

I couldn't agree more. The GXR is a unique camera, and not for everyone. However for those with some old Leica glass this is a truly wonderful tool. You have to be a photographer, not a camera operator. Set your chosen f/stop, set your focus, consider the image. I wish Richo would follow up with a GXR II, this one with a fixed M mount. But, sadly, the market rules, and we've probably seen the last of this one.

It just makes those out there working worth more ....

 

[ANAYV]

BTW , I just ordered a GXR with S10, and also the A16 24 to 85mm . I probably should of bought the GXR with the P10 , but version with S10 was $30 less, and didn't plan on buying the A16, til yesterday.

Might try out a S10'modified for IR, too.

Thanks

ANAYV

You won't actually be missing much by forgoing the P10. I did a comparison a while back between images from the P10 and cropping images from the larger APSC-sensor A12-50mm to match. Even cropped in mightily to a small central portion of the image to match the 300mm zoom, the cropped A12 still delivered slightly more sharpness and detail than the P10.

Good to know. The P10 does have the smallest sensor of all the lensors, so Im not surprised about the I.Q.

So in practice if you really need a tight zoom on something you're much better off anyway using the A16 24-85mm and cropping as needed instead of opting for a P10.

And just last weekend I was looking over my GXR pictures over the last few years and surprised myself that some of my favourites are actually with the S10.

Thanks .....I will try out the S10....only takes a few seconds to put it on the GXR

I am really starting to like this design.....never did like changing lenses, but only had two with a GH2 for about a year.

Seems I can change a lensor Much faster than a lens, and never worry about dust getting on the sensor( due to exposed sensor, while changing the lens).

Dust CAN get into the lensor from the lens ( Adorama was selling a A12 50mm lens but it had a few dust particles on the sensor )

ANAYV