D5100 Manual mode

[Iain G Foulds]

... Just wanted to thank the good advice at this forum. Learning to use the Manual mode. Kept the shutter speed high at 1/400, ISO at 320 for a dark, shaded subject, and perhaps too low an F-stop at 6.3.

... Difficult to get a good photo of a very black subject, and I am not a fan of the ugly crow which destroys the songbird population.

... Just wanted to thank those who take the time to offer advice to amateurs at this forum.

 

[Graystar]

I don't know who told you to shoot in manual mode, but I think that's was poor advice. Manual mode is not the best choice for this type of shooting, and a poor choice for the majority of photography. Basically, if the meter is working then manual mode is usually the wrong mode.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

.

 

[Iain G Foulds]

... Gray: I'll give that a go.
... How do I set the Auto ISO and minimum shutter speed?
... Many thanks!

 

[Garffin]

Thanks for the info Greystar as I am a newbie too and I will this week be using your suggestion. Dan

 

[Graystar]

... How do I set the Auto ISO and minimum shutter speed?

Page 155 of the D5100 manual shows you how. You press the MENU button and enter the Shooting menu. Select "ISO Sensitivity Settings." Set the "Auto ISO sensitivity control" to "ON", and set the Minimum Shutter Speed. I leave the "Maximum sensitivity" at the maximum ISO value.

The "Maximum sensitivity" is like a ceiling for ISO...if the camera has to increase ISO and the ISO reaches the "Maximum sensitivity" value, then the camera will keep that ISO and go back to reducing shutter speed. Use this if you just don't want to shoot above a certain ISO level. However, remember that the alternative is a slow shutter speed and blur. So you have to decide which is worse...a noisy image or a blurry image. Personally, I think blurry is worse so I leave "Maximum sensitivity" as the highest ISO available.

.

 

[james laubscher]

I think once people have 'discovered' the benefit of the Nikon auto iso system as expounded on by Graystar, they will seldom have to change their camera settings.

But there does come a time when for example the 1/400s shutter speed forces high iso settings and the pictures do become noisy (still subjects in darker conditions are an example). In this case there is little benefit to 1/400s shutter speed unless one is using handheld telezoom lenses.

So why does the manual function exist? Graystar makes it sound like it is unnecessary but surely it serves a purpose. Can anyone explain why we would need to use the manual settings?
--
jamesza

 

[nfpotter]

I don't know who told you to shoot in manual mode, but I think that's was poor advice. Manual mode is not the best choice for this type of shooting, and a poor choice for the majority of photography. Basically, if the meter is working then manual mode is usually the wrong mode.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

.

Man, you sometimes give good advice on here, but this is hilarious and wrong.

1st off, I largely shoot wildlife, and I shoot 95% M Mode with Auto-ISO on. M Mode is NOT a poor choice.

2nd, you're suggesting that someone should menu-dive to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, rather than just flipping to M Mode and setting it? You think that's FASTER? Are you high? You just did the same thing as putting the camera in M Mode and selecting your shutter and aperture, only way slower.

To the OP: M Mode with Auto-ISO is a GREAT way to go. It allows you to control both SS (for 1.5 x focal length, and/or subject motion), and Aperture size for DOF and/or sharpness control.

 

[nfpotter]

I think once people have 'discovered' the benefit of the Nikon auto iso system as expounded on by Graystar, they will seldom have to change their camera settings.

But there does come a time when for example the 1/400s shutter speed forces high iso settings and the pictures do become noisy (still subjects in darker conditions are an example). In this case there is little benefit to 1/400s shutter speed unless one is using handheld telezoom lenses.

OR you need a fast SS to freeze subject motion.

So why does the manual function exist? Graystar makes it sound like it is unnecessary but surely it serves a purpose. Can anyone explain why we would need to use the manual settings?

See my post below.

--
jamesza

 

[nfpotter]

Thanks for the info Greystar as I am a newbie too and I will this week be using your suggestion. Dan

Don't. See my post below.

 

[Graystar]

I think once people have 'discovered' the benefit of the Nikon auto iso system as expounded on by Graystar, they will seldom have to change their camera settings.

But there does come a time when for example the 1/400s shutter speed forces high iso settings and the pictures do become noisy (still subjects in darker conditions are an example). In this case there is little benefit to 1/400s shutter speed unless one is using handheld telezoom lenses.

That's why the Minimum Shutter Speed setting is adjustable. You set the MSS to match the current subject matter. If you're taking pics of people sitting around at a picnic, 1/60s will probably be fine.

So why does the manual function exist? Graystar makes it sound like it is unnecessary but surely it serves a purpose. Can anyone explain why we would need to use the manual settings?

Actually I said if the meter works then manual mode is the wrong mode...implying that if the meter doesn't work or can't be used, then manual mode would be the right mode. Astrophotography, long exposures, shooting fireworks, shooting lightning, and certain types of flash photography are all examples of when manual mode must be used.

But if you can meter your subject then you'll be better off with an auto mode.

.

 

[jonikon]

I don't know who told you to shoot in manual mode, but I think that's was poor advice. Manual mode is not the best choice for this type of shooting, and a poor choice for the majority of photography. Basically, if the meter is working then manual mode is usually the wrong mode.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

.

Man, you sometimes give good advice on here, but this is hilarious and wrong.

1st off, I largely shoot wildlife, and I shoot 95% M Mode with Auto-ISO on. M Mode is NOT a poor choice.

I totally agree. I can't imagine what Graystar was thinking when he posted his reply, as any sports/wildlife photographer would tell him it is wrong to avoid manual mode with Auto ISO. The ability to directly and quickly change shutter speed and/or aperture is essential for this kind of photography.

2nd, you're suggesting that someone should menu-dive to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, rather than just flipping to M Mode and setting it? You think that's FASTER? Are you high? You just did the same thing as putting the camera in M Mode and selecting your shutter and aperture, only way slower.

Yeah, I don't get it either. A very clumsy workflow, to say the least.

To the OP: M Mode with Auto-ISO is a GREAT way to go. It allows you to control both SS (for 1.5 x focal length, and/or subject motion), and Aperture size for DOF and/or sharpness control.

Again, I totally agree. And with the Nikon cameras you can even do EC on the fly.

--
"Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain! The Great Oz has spoken!"

• Jon

 

[nfpotter]

I think once people have 'discovered' the benefit of the Nikon auto iso system as expounded on by Graystar, they will seldom have to change their camera settings.

But there does come a time when for example the 1/400s shutter speed forces high iso settings and the pictures do become noisy (still subjects in darker conditions are an example). In this case there is little benefit to 1/400s shutter speed unless one is using handheld telezoom lenses.

That's why the Minimum Shutter Speed setting is adjustable. You set the MSS to match the current subject matter. If you're taking pics of people sitting around at a picnic, 1/60s will probably be fine.

So why does the manual function exist? Graystar makes it sound like it is unnecessary but surely it serves a purpose. Can anyone explain why we would need to use the manual settings?

Actually I said if the meter works then manual mode is the wrong mode...implying that if the meter doesn't work or can't be used, then manual mode would be the right mode. Astrophotography, long exposures, shooting fireworks, shooting lightning, and certain types of flash photography are all examples of when manual mode must be used.

But if you can meter your subject then you'll be better off with an auto mode.

.

Graystar, WHERE do you get this stuff? "Wrong" is only wrong TO YOU. Would my shots come out better if I was in A Mode? No. And your setup takes longer.

Weird.

 

[nfpotter]

I don't know who told you to shoot in manual mode, but I think that's was poor advice. Manual mode is not the best choice for this type of shooting, and a poor choice for the majority of photography. Basically, if the meter is working then manual mode is usually the wrong mode.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

.

Man, you sometimes give good advice on here, but this is hilarious and wrong.

1st off, I largely shoot wildlife, and I shoot 95% M Mode with Auto-ISO on. M Mode is NOT a poor choice.

I totally agree. I can't imagine what Graystar was thinking when he posted his reply, as any sports/wildlife photographer would tell him it is wrong to avoid manual mode with Auto ISO. The ability to directly and quickly change shutter speed and/or aperture is essential for this kind of photography.

2nd, you're suggesting that someone should menu-dive to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, rather than just flipping to M Mode and setting it? You think that's FASTER? Are you high? You just did the same thing as putting the camera in M Mode and selecting your shutter and aperture, only way slower.

Yeah, I don't get it either. A very clumsy workflow, to say the least.

To the OP: M Mode with Auto-ISO is a GREAT way to go. It allows you to control both SS (for 1.5 x focal length, and/or subject motion), and Aperture size for DOF and/or sharpness control.

Again, I totally agree. And with the Nikon cameras you can even do EC on the fly.

Yup. I use the EC button a lot, because its position is easier than the ISO button while using the viewfinder, at least for me. So the EC button is only affecting the ISO.

--
"Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain! The Great Oz has spoken!"

• Jon

 

[Graystar]

I don't know who told you to shoot in manual mode, but I think that's was poor advice. Manual mode is not the best choice for this type of shooting, and a poor choice for the majority of photography. Basically, if the meter is working then manual mode is usually the wrong mode.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

Man, you sometimes give good advice on here, but this is hilarious and wrong.

No, it's right on the mark. Your advice is incorrect.

1st off, I largely shoot wildlife, and I shoot 95% M Mode with Auto-ISO on. M Mode is NOT a poor choice.

Of course you can use M mode...choosing M mode doesn't stop the shutter from firing. But whenever a person is able to accomplish a task successfully, there's always an underlying question as whether he is successful because of what he does or despite of what he does. In your case it's in spite of what you do, and I would bet that you'd have more low-ISO shots if you switched to A mode.

2nd, you're suggesting that someone should menu-dive to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, rather than just flipping to M Mode and setting it? You think that's FASTER? Are you high? You just did the same thing as putting the camera in M Mode and selecting your shutter and aperture, only way slower.

You set the Minimum Shutter Speed once to match the current subject matter. Street photography and other snaps of people work fine at 1/60s, 1/320s works for most sports, and 1/500s is what I use for birds in flight. Once the MSS is set you don't have to change it unless your subject matter changes. Sure...Nikon should have made it easier, but there's no real disadvantage to the menu, other than a few seconds lost at the beginning of your shooting session. If set appropriately then you shouldn't need to change it while shooting. If the minimum shutter speed you need to freeze a BIF is 1/500s, I don't see how that would suddenly change to 1/250s in the middle of your shooting.

To the OP: M Mode with Auto-ISO is a GREAT way to go. It allows you to control both SS (for 1.5 x focal length, and/or subject motion), and Aperture size for DOF and/or sharpness control.

That's not a great way to use Auto ISO...in fact it's a poor way to use Auto ISO.

M mode with Auto ISO has two problems. First, you want to keep the ISO as low as possible...raising it only when necessary. With your method, ISO is always changing to give standard exposure at the current shutter/aperture combination. If you want to shoot at the lowest ISO, then you need to constantly manage your shutter speed. That's an unnecessary distraction. Auto ISO with A mode does that automatically.

Second, you must always pay attention to the ISO because once you bump into either end of the ISO range then you're going to have under or overexposure. This is why using Auto-ISO with A mode excels...you always shoot at the lowest ISO possible while being protected from under/overexposure.

When you're shooting you want to control the aperture and you also want to shoot at the lowest ISO possible. With Auto-ISO in A mode you have control of the aperture, and the ISO stays at its lowest setting, with the camera changing shutter speed to match the lighting. This prevents overexposure, and so you don't have to baby-sit your settings...you just set whatever aperture you want and shoot. If the lighting gets low or you decide to use a narrow aperture for deep DOF, then Auto-ISO will not allow the shutter to drop below your minimum shutter speed, and will instead raise ISO to maintain that speed. This ensures that you'll never use a shutter that's slower than the slowest shutter you're willing to use for the current subject matter, AND it ensures that you're always using the lowest ISO possible to meet your exposure constraints. And all this without you having to pay constant attention to the ISO and shutter speed. That's why Auto ISO with A mode is much better than with M mode.

.

 

[Graystar]

I think once people have 'discovered' the benefit of the Nikon auto iso system as expounded on by Graystar, they will seldom have to change their camera settings.

But there does come a time when for example the 1/400s shutter speed forces high iso settings and the pictures do become noisy (still subjects in darker conditions are an example). In this case there is little benefit to 1/400s shutter speed unless one is using handheld telezoom lenses.

That's why the Minimum Shutter Speed setting is adjustable. You set the MSS to match the current subject matter. If you're taking pics of people sitting around at a picnic, 1/60s will probably be fine.

So why does the manual function exist? Graystar makes it sound like it is unnecessary but surely it serves a purpose. Can anyone explain why we would need to use the manual settings?

Actually I said if the meter works then manual mode is the wrong mode...implying that if the meter doesn't work or can't be used, then manual mode would be the right mode. Astrophotography, long exposures, shooting fireworks, shooting lightning, and certain types of flash photography are all examples of when manual mode must be used.

But if you can meter your subject then you'll be better off with an auto mode.

.

Graystar, WHERE do you get this stuff? "Wrong" is only wrong TO YOU. Would my shots come out better if I was in A Mode? No. And your setup takes longer.

Yes, your shots will come out better in A mode and your setup will be faster.

The problem here is that you don't understand how to use your camera beyond M mode. You're dismissing processes that you've probably never tried.

.

 

[Graystar]

I don't know who told you to shoot in manual mode, but I think that's was poor advice. Manual mode is not the best choice for this type of shooting, and a poor choice for the majority of photography. Basically, if the meter is working then manual mode is usually the wrong mode.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

.

Man, you sometimes give good advice on here, but this is hilarious and wrong.

1st off, I largely shoot wildlife, and I shoot 95% M Mode with Auto-ISO on. M Mode is NOT a poor choice.

I totally agree. I can't imagine what Graystar was thinking when he posted his reply, as any sports/wildlife photographer would tell him it is wrong to avoid manual mode with Auto ISO. The ability to directly and quickly change shutter speed and/or aperture is essential for this kind of photography.

That's ridiculous. You don't need to change shutter speed quickly. The subject matter calls for a minimum shutter speed to freeze the action. Why would you need to shoot slower than that? If you want a blurred shot then it's easy to just switch to S mode to control the shutter or even M mode if you want to control the aperture as well. But when you want to freeze the action you never need to change the shutter speed. What does a faster shutter give you that the minimum required shutter doesn't??

With Auto ISO and M mode you just end up shooting at a higher ISO than is necessary with no gain, because it's difficult to maintain the ISO as low as possible.

2nd, you're suggesting that someone should menu-dive to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, rather than just flipping to M Mode and setting it? You think that's FASTER? Are you high? You just did the same thing as putting the camera in M Mode and selecting your shutter and aperture, only way slower.

Yeah, I don't get it either. A very clumsy workflow, to say the least.

It's only clumsy 'cause you're not thinking.

.

 

[DuaneV]

So why does the manual function exist? Graystar makes it sound like it is unnecessary but surely it serves a purpose. Can anyone explain why we would need to use the manual settings?
--
jamesza

"M" mode basically exists for super controlled conditions, or immobile subjects (not that it cant be used for whatever you want, but its a LOT more work). Shooting a crow in "M" mode is a LOT of work and "A" mode would have been a much easier. Its not that one is right and one is wrong, its just one is easier and one is harder, more time consuming and there are more things you need to pay attention to.

"M" mode allows you to set speed and f/stop. "A" mode will let you choose your f/stop but then the camera takes care of the speed. So, depending on your subject and the light, the camera will adjust shutter speed appropriate to the subject. If the crow moves or the light changes, etc., while shooting in "M" mode then you need to re-adjust everything, manually.....which can take long enough to make you lose your chance. Keeping the camera in "A" allows the camera to adjust around your set f/stop.

If youre trying for different effects, etc., "M" mode might be the way to go. You could purposely over or under expose the shot. Get some blur, etc. It all depends on what you want for a final image. It allows you to tweak every little detail without any help from the camera.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

.

Man, you sometimes give good advice on here, but this is hilarious and wrong.

1st off, I largely shoot wildlife, and I shoot 95% M Mode with Auto-ISO on. M Mode is NOT a poor choice.

Manual is, without a doubt, more work (regardless of subject, LET ALONG wildlife) so in a sense it is a poor choice.....unless youre willing to do all the calculations manually. You need to constantly make sure youre shooting at the correct shutter speed in conjunction with your f/stop, ISO, etc. Something I personally dont have the time for when shooting active wildlife.

2nd, you're suggesting that someone should menu-dive to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, rather than just flipping to M Mode and setting it? You think that's FASTER? Are you high? You just did the same thing as putting the camera in M Mode and selecting your shutter and aperture, only way slower.

I think he's suggesting this be set BEFORE HAND so you dont have to mess with settings or worry about them DURING the actual shooting. MUCH less work.

To the OP: M Mode with Auto-ISO is a GREAT way to go. It allows you to control both SS (for 1.5 x focal length, and/or subject motion), and Aperture size for DOF and/or sharpness control.

Youre suggesting exactly what Graystar did that you ridiculed him for ("are you high?", except he's ALSO saying set the minimum shutter speed prior to shooting so you dont miss any action with blurred shots.

"M" is definitely NOT ideal, quick or easy for shooting action or wildlife images. Whem Im shooting portraits in studio, product photos, landscapes or macros I ONLY use manual. Thats what its best for, in my opinion. If someone wants to shoot manual birding, great. But when someone gives advice saying its not the easiest way to shoot bird photos they arent wrong, even if someone prefers doing it that way. Manual mode is the most labor intensive and skill-required type of photography you can shoot. You need to know your lighting, f/stop, ISO, shutter speeds, etc., and put them together accordingly to take a nice photo (or get the desired results). You need to do all the thinking for the camera instead of the other way around. Its much easier to screw something up shooting with "M" mode. This is why there were so few SLR shooters back in the day. It was a lot of work and money to shoot random, crappy pictures. Today, anyone can do it with a DSLR! lol.
--
http://www.dpreview.com/galleries/3317198770/albums

 

[nfpotter]

I think once people have 'discovered' the benefit of the Nikon auto iso system as expounded on by Graystar, they will seldom have to change their camera settings.

But there does come a time when for example the 1/400s shutter speed forces high iso settings and the pictures do become noisy (still subjects in darker conditions are an example). In this case there is little benefit to 1/400s shutter speed unless one is using handheld telezoom lenses.

That's why the Minimum Shutter Speed setting is adjustable. You set the MSS to match the current subject matter. If you're taking pics of people sitting around at a picnic, 1/60s will probably be fine.

So why does the manual function exist? Graystar makes it sound like it is unnecessary but surely it serves a purpose. Can anyone explain why we would need to use the manual settings?

Actually I said if the meter works then manual mode is the wrong mode...implying that if the meter doesn't work or can't be used, then manual mode would be the right mode. Astrophotography, long exposures, shooting fireworks, shooting lightning, and certain types of flash photography are all examples of when manual mode must be used.

But if you can meter your subject then you'll be better off with an auto mode.

.

Graystar, WHERE do you get this stuff? "Wrong" is only wrong TO YOU. Would my shots come out better if I was in A Mode? No. And your setup takes longer.

Yes, your shots will come out better in A mode and your setup will be faster.

The problem here is that you don't understand how to use your camera beyond M mode. You're dismissing processes that you've probably never tried.

.

ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT.

I understand every single aspect of all 3 of my bodies. Unlike you, I have graduated up to shooting in M Mode, rather than the "always A Mode" baby crap.

 

[nfpotter]

I don't know who told you to shoot in manual mode, but I think that's was poor advice. Manual mode is not the best choice for this type of shooting, and a poor choice for the majority of photography. Basically, if the meter is working then manual mode is usually the wrong mode.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

.

Man, you sometimes give good advice on here, but this is hilarious and wrong.

1st off, I largely shoot wildlife, and I shoot 95% M Mode with Auto-ISO on. M Mode is NOT a poor choice.

I totally agree. I can't imagine what Graystar was thinking when he posted his reply, as any sports/wildlife photographer would tell him it is wrong to avoid manual mode with Auto ISO. The ability to directly and quickly change shutter speed and/or aperture is essential for this kind of photography.

That's ridiculous. You don't need to change shutter speed quickly. The subject matter calls for a minimum shutter speed to freeze the action. Why would you need to shoot slower than that? If you want a blurred shot then it's easy to just switch to S mode to control the shutter or even M mode if you want to control the aperture as well. But when you want to freeze the action you never need to change the shutter speed. What does a faster shutter give you that the minimum required shutter doesn't??

Because SS is part of the exposure triangle. Duh.

With Auto ISO and M mode you just end up shooting at a higher ISO than is necessary with no gain, because it's difficult to maintain the ISO as low as possible.

How would I "end up shooting at a higher ISO than is necessary"? How do YOU know what the proper exposure was, what the focal length in use was, what aperture I wanted for a balance of exposure, DOF, and sharpness? You don't.

2nd, you're suggesting that someone should menu-dive to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, rather than just flipping to M Mode and setting it? You think that's FASTER? Are you high? You just did the same thing as putting the camera in M Mode and selecting your shutter and aperture, only way slower.

Yeah, I don't get it either. A very clumsy workflow, to say the least.

It's only clumsy 'cause you're not thinking.

.

 

[nfpotter]

I don't know who told you to shoot in manual mode, but I think that's was poor advice. Manual mode is not the best choice for this type of shooting, and a poor choice for the majority of photography. Basically, if the meter is working then manual mode is usually the wrong mode.

Since you have a Nikon, you should have shot in A mode, enabled your Auto-ISO, and set a Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/400s. Then you don't have to worry about ISO or shutter speed. If the shutter speed required for correct exposure is ever less than 1/400s, the camera will raise the ISO instead and maintain the shutter speed. This gives you the ability to manipulate aperture as you like, and also be protected from too slow a shutter speed, and you always shoot as the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. This frees you to concentrate on your subject and composition.

Man, you sometimes give good advice on here, but this is hilarious and wrong.

No, it's right on the mark. Your advice is incorrect.

1st off, I largely shoot wildlife, and I shoot 95% M Mode with Auto-ISO on. M Mode is NOT a poor choice.

Of course you can use M mode...choosing M mode doesn't stop the shutter from firing. But whenever a person is able to accomplish a task successfully, there's always an underlying question as whether he is successful because of what he does or despite of what he does. In your case it's in spite of what you do, and I would bet that you'd have more low-ISO shots if you switched to A mode.

2nd, you're suggesting that someone should menu-dive to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, rather than just flipping to M Mode and setting it? You think that's FASTER? Are you high? You just did the same thing as putting the camera in M Mode and selecting your shutter and aperture, only way slower.

You set the Minimum Shutter Speed once to match the current subject matter. Street photography and other snaps of people work fine at 1/60s, 1/320s works for most sports, and 1/500s is what I use for birds in flight. Once the MSS is set you don't have to change it unless your subject matter changes. Sure...Nikon should have made it easier, but there's no real disadvantage to the menu, other than a few seconds lost at the beginning of your shooting session. If set appropriately then you shouldn't need to change it while shooting. If the minimum shutter speed you need to freeze a BIF is 1/500s, I don't see how that would suddenly change to 1/250s in the middle of your shooting.

To the OP: M Mode with Auto-ISO is a GREAT way to go. It allows you to control both SS (for 1.5 x focal length, and/or subject motion), and Aperture size for DOF and/or sharpness control.

That's not a great way to use Auto ISO...in fact it's a poor way to use Auto ISO.

M mode with Auto ISO has two problems. First, you want to keep the ISO as low as possible...raising it only when necessary. With your method, ISO is always changing to give standard exposure at the current shutter/aperture combination. If you want to shoot at the lowest ISO, then you need to constantly manage your shutter speed. That's an unnecessary distraction. Auto ISO with A mode does that automatically.

Second, you must always pay attention to the ISO because once you bump into either end of the ISO range then you're going to have under or overexposure. This is why using Auto-ISO with A mode excels...you always shoot at the lowest ISO possible while being protected from under/overexposure.

When you're shooting you want to control the aperture and you also want to shoot at the lowest ISO possible. With Auto-ISO in A mode you have control of the aperture, and the ISO stays at its lowest setting, with the camera changing shutter speed to match the lighting. This prevents overexposure, and so you don't have to baby-sit your settings...you just set whatever aperture you want and shoot. If the lighting gets low or you decide to use a narrow aperture for deep DOF, then Auto-ISO will not allow the shutter to drop below your minimum shutter speed, and will instead raise ISO to maintain that speed. This ensures that you'll never use a shutter that's slower than the slowest shutter you're willing to use for the current subject matter, AND it ensures that you're always using the lowest ISO possible to meet your exposure constraints. And all this without you having to pay constant attention to the ISO and shutter speed. That's why Auto ISO with A mode is much better than with M mode.

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NO. When YOU are shooting, YOU want to do things a certain way. I do them my way, which is faster and easier than yours, and offers greater control on the fly.

Sorry, YOU are wrong. Discussion over.