Composition for close-up /macro

gardenersassistant

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This is an invitation to discuss any aspects of composition as it relates to close-up/macro. I'll start.

Composition matters a lot to me, for my own close-up/macro images, for reasons I've explained below. More generally though, I think composition may not matter at all in some cases, and may be quite low on the list of priorities in some other cases. And sometimes, like for me, it can matter a lot.

Horses for courses.

For identification purposes composition might not matter at all. As I understand it (which is not much btw), identifying species can depend on the details of a particular part of the animal or plant. I don't think composition has any role to play in such cases.

It seems to me that the big draw of close-up/macro for a lot of people is the way it lets you see wonderful details of shape, colour and texture in nature's creations that you can't see with the naked eye. It's nice when someone manages to capture and display that sort of detail in the context of an attractively composed image, but I can't feel that composition is a key factor, certainly not in my enjoyment of highly detailed images.

For my part, I photograph mainly insects and other invertebrates and flowers, buds, seed pods etc. In both areas I am next to useless at identifying species, and my images are fairly small and, especially with invertebrates, they lack fine detail. My aim for a long time now has been to try to create what I think of as "pretty pictures"; images, based on photographs, that appeal to my eye in terms of the shapes, colours, light and textures they contain and the way these elements fit together, which is what I think of, for my own images, as composition.

That is of course a very personal approach, based on my personal preferences, and it is very much a matter of intuition and trial and error. There are of course well recognised guidelines that can be helpful, such as those discussed in these articles, which I read a few days ago to remind myself about these guidelines:


Although a lot of the examples were architecture, landscape, street and people photography I found them all an interesting read and I can see most or all of them being potentially useful for composing close-up/macro captures. That said, apart from the first bullet point below, personally I'm not really conscious of that sort of guideline when composing captures and cropping images to get to a composition I'm comfortable with. For example:
  • For a single subject, such as an insect, I tend to have more space in front of it than behind it, unless it is more or less pointing towards the camera, in which case I'll most likely place it centrally. This is the case for flowers as well as little animals.
    I tend to have more space above a single subject than beneath it, unless it is hanging upside down, in which case I may have more space below it than above it.
  • If there is something(s) else significant in the frame (such as a bud(s) as well as a flower subject, or prey as well as an insect subject), I will typically arrange them in the frame to give an overall feeling of balance.
  • I try not to cut off at the edge of the frame anything such as flowers or droplets, especially but not only if they are in focus. Sometimes though this is inevitable and I may use some processing to de-emphasise the cut-off item.
  • In some cases there is a background that works really nicely, but only if the subject is placed where it goes against one of the above, which is what I'll do.
  • I choose aspect ratios on an image by image basis. Sometimes I'll use the camera's native aspect ratio, but depending on the content on the image I'm happy to use a thin or square aspect ratio or anything intermediate, and I'll use landscape or portrait orientation depending on the content of the scene. (I shoot in landscape mode all the time for invertebrates. For flowers etc I shoot in portrait mode a lot.)
  • I shoot series of images of invertebrates as they move around, which means that each capture is a split second decision. Especially if the subject is small, or if it is breezy, this means that captures are often ill-composed. Sometimes I will crop to get to a nice, "standard" type of composition, but as I've done more of these sequences recently I've come to the conclusion that by doing that a series can take on a rather bland appearance. Besides which, getting to a "standard" type of a composition may simply not be possible for some captures. I have learnt increasingly to appreciate some compositional irregularity and "rule-breaking" in series. It seems to reflect the haphazard movement that I often see with invertebrates in motion.
  • Sometimes there is something in an image that looks intrusive when viewing that image by itself, but which looks quite natural when seen in the context of a series where the intrusive element comes to play a significant role later on in the series.
  • Occasionally I will stretch or squash one or more sides of an image to get the overall balance of the composition more to my liking.
  • Sometimes I will use local adjustments during post processing for compositional reasons, for example to de-emphasise or remove an element which unbalances the image.
I'll probably remember some more after I've posted this, but you get the idea. Rather than being rules-based, composition is for me a very pragmatic thing, trying to do the best I can at capture time, but with variable results, and during post processing trying to make best use of whatever I have to work with at that stage.

How about you?
 
First thanks for kicking this one off Nick!

The hard part about discussing composition for me is that I don't want to sound like I'm putting anyone's photography down. So when I talk about what I'm doing and why it's not meant to be "the guide" to macro composition -it's my guide, my .02.

There are a lot of basic composition guides so I'm not gonna go over them.

I'm not a fan of that top down "I'm about to step on it" angle that you see in a lot of macro photos. It's the angle that most people view the small world, so it's too common. Granted, there are a lot of people who just want to go on a nature walk and document what they see and I understand the attraction. But anyone can take those images...

In the niche circles that you post your photos you're gonna get feedback and most of it will be positive. I call it the "birthday effect" -no one gives you presents on your birthday because you're special. They do it expecting something in return. So just because you're getting a lot of positive feedback on your work it really doesn't mean anything. You have to learn how to pick your photos apart as if you didn't take them, and no one should be able to point out a flaw in one of your photos that you didn't already notice.

Some of you are gonna think that because you're showing the viewer detail that they can't normally see then that's enough. But part of the definition of macro photography is showing people detail that they don't normally see -and if everyone shooting macro is doing it then the detail isn't that big of a deal. The average viewer is looking for a photo that looks good edge to edge. Composition is king in every photographic discipline, even though a lot of people have tried to turn macro photography into a science experiment.

The gear you use, the techniques you use, etc. are just tools. You can have the best, most expensive, tools on the planet and still produce garbage. So the tools aren't important, it's what you can create with them that counts. No one is gonna care what you did, or how you did it, if your photos look no better than a snapshot.

Anyone, baring some physical or financial limitation, can photograph anything. The fact that you can photograph something isn't relevant. The hard part is photographing something that people come back to look at more than once, an image that people save to their PC or phone as wallpaper, or print large and hang on the wall. It's one thing to photograph an insect and get a lot of good feedback in the macro community, and something completely different when someone who wouldn't even look at a photo of an insect (or whatever you shoot) is following your work.

There are formulas for diffraction, so absolute image sharpness is easy to understand. There is no formula for creativity...

All that being said I'll post some specific examples from my gallery that I think worked (and why) and examples of what failed (and why).

Here's a shot where I've got the rule of third twice (once with the subject and once with the flower) and leading lines (lines in the flower petals leading the viewer to the subject):

0b1Uujx.jpg


That wasn't the image I was trying to get -I wanted to photograph her foraging for pollen. This is the shot I wanted...

LVl8gPQ.jpg


...but she was moving too fast and I didn't have time to re-frame. So when I took the shot I clipped her wings in the upper part of the frame (clipped them with the way I framed it, didn't actually injure the bee -yes, some people asked when I said I clipped the wings). One of the times when I was actually framing for the background and ended up not composing for the subject. Learn from my fail and always compose for the subject first, then if possible compose for the background. You don't want to end up with a perfectly composed flower that has an insect distracting the viewer, for example.

Footnote: It's easier to photograph active insects on windy days cause the vibration that I induce in the stem of the flower when I grab onto it is masked by the vibration caused by the wind. In the first shot there wasn't enough wind so she felt me grab onto to the flower's stem and came to the top to take a look. Also I need to edit the second shot again cause it's too "warm". Both bees were hyperactive and foraging for pollen.

--
Also known as Dalantech
My Book: http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2010/01/extreme-macro-art-of-patience.html
My Blog: http://www.extrememacro.com
My gallery: http://www.johnkimbler.com
Macro Tutorials: http://dalantech.deviantart.com/gallery/4122501/Tutorials
Always minimal post processing and no cropping -unless you count the viewfinder... ;)
 
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I would concur with much of this - I do lean more to the rule of 1/3s for composition.

IMHO the ABCs of doof composition apply as much in macro or more given the detailed goal.

- use of leading lines

- fill the frame with the subject ie

- try and fine complementary colors and patterns ie plain butterfly on busy background

- observe the rule of 3s

- simplify the scene - ie avoid border clutter and other distractions

- use subject echoes etc

- make use of diagonals

- tell a story etc

- create depth etc

wait out the weather for great lighting and conditions.

Find the right colored bug on the right colored flower in the right light.

IMHO it is the creative side that is vastly under rated in importance.

The best practices IMHO creates that new world in each shot , they follow the basics but no two are alike or feel repetitive.

To that end David Brommer has some great composition talks on the You Tube B&H site

I have been watching some Lady flower photographer's lecture on Uni of Ytube and boy they do a great job on composition. They don't do bugs per se but the basic creative philosophies are as applicable to insects etc.

--
Best Regards, Rodger
Save Lives - Be an Organ or Stem Cell Donor.
Quaecumque vera
 
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I dont see any similarity what so ever with common rules of composition for macro/closeup. there's only 1 rule for macro ,the most pixels on the smallest subject wins :-)

Don



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--
Sony A7r2 , A6300
past toys. k100d, k10d,k7,fz5,fz150,500uz,canon G9, Olympus xz1 em5mk1, em5mk2, em1mk2.
 
When I first got into macro a lot of people were saying that if you want to shoot insects you had to use a "bug lens" -a long focal length lens so you don't spook the subject. Even today I still hear that piece of bad advice. But it doesn't matter if your working distance is 9" with a 180mm lens or 4" with a 60mm one if the subject is skittish you're not gonna get the shot. Experience has taught me, over the past 15 years of shooting macro, that my knowledge of a subject's habits and quirks and its willingness to let me get close will determine if I can get a shot. So there is no such thing as a "bug lens".

How does knowing your subject fit into composition? Being able to choose your lens focal length due to the light source you want to use, or the technique you want to use, opens up a lot of creative options for you. You won't be constrained to photographing completely inactive subjects, especially if you can learn how to control the depth in a single frame.

One ant passing food to another one. Makes me wonder if they also pass on info about where the food is. Uncropped image taken at 4x and F13.

One ant passing food to another one. Makes me wonder if they also pass on info about where the food is. Uncropped image taken at 4x and F13.

Critters that have antenna are constantly moving them, so when shooting active critters take a lot of shots. In the image above that out of focus antenna in the foreground is really distracting, but I didn't get a second chance at that scene cause the flash would make them jump. Also I had the flash set to manual mode cause the E-TTL metering pre-flash was spooking the ants, so sometimes the subject will force me to change the way that I normally shoot. Not a big deal, just gotta know how the subject is going to act or react.

Go out shooting early when the critters are more hungry than afraid, and if possible look for them in areas where there's a lot of foot traffic. They'll be use to people being around and might be more cooperative. I think that's what happened for me with this next subject, shot right off of a hiking trail in a nature preserve.

LRzb7rB.jpg


The downside to shooting in a flower is that the petals can be distracting. It would have been better to shoot that one in portrait orientation instead of landscape, but I have difficulty tracking a moving subject while holding the camera vertically. Note: Yes, that shot is a good argument for cropping :)

Not sure what the general consensus is on baiting subjects, but I'd rather feed a critter than freeze one. Give them a reason to let you get close and they'll stick around, and in this case I injected Agave nectar into a Wall Flower with a syringe. The only tricky part was putting the subject and what it was doing in two opposite rule of thirds points, and I caught a break because the flower petal acted as a leading line to draw your attention to the action.



Note: That leading antenna had to be in focus or the shot wouldn't work. Uncropped frame taken at almost 3x and F11.

Note: That leading antenna had to be in focus or the shot wouldn't work. Uncropped frame taken at almost 3x and F11.

All of the images in this post where taken with Canon's MP-E 65mm macro lens, and with a working distance of 2.5" or less. I'm not special so anyone can take photos as good, if not better, than the ones I've included (baring any physical limitations). So don't let anyone limit your creativity by telling you that you have to use a certain piece of gear or technique. Sometimes physics will say no, but otherwise anything is possible. You just gotta figure it out.

--
Also known as Dalantech
My Book: http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2010/01/extreme-macro-art-of-patience.html
My Blog: http://www.extrememacro.com
My gallery: http://www.johnkimbler.com
Macro Tutorials: http://dalantech.deviantart.com/gallery/4122501/Tutorials
Always minimal post processing and no cropping -unless you count the viewfinder... ;)
 
Far be it for me to disagree with any of whats been said in this thread very many great points from people I would try to emulate in this genre. Composition is something I am aware of when taking photographs but sometimes have to be satisfied with what I can get at the time. For example, no way would I regard my recently posted photographs as good composition but they were what I could achieve at the time and demonstrate, to some extent a piece of behaviour unseen with the naked eye.

I guess it rather depends on what you are trying to achieve, I would love to create a wonderfully composed photograph each time but sadly find that quite hard to do! Another reason for more practice!
 
In the shots - the subjects fills the frame, there are strong leading lines , complimentary colors etc if the ant face follow the " fill the frame" dictum, eyes are approx on the rule of 1/3s etc . and that's part of why they work so well.

If the ant face was composed tiny in a huge frame ata poor angle it would fizzle.

IMHO part of what makes your shots generally very good is a strong following of traditional composition doctrine - fill the frame with the subject, use leading lines and complimentary colors, avoid distracting clutter etc.

--
Best Regards, Rodger
Save Lives - Be an Organ or Stem Cell Donor.
Quaecumque vera
 
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Far be it for me to disagree with any of whats been said in this thread very many great points from people I would try to emulate in this genre. Composition is something I am aware of when taking photographs but sometimes have to be satisfied with what I can get at the time.
That is the case for me, except that I would have to replace "sometimes" with "often". That is for invertebrates. For flowers etc (hand-held btw) I find it much easier to handle composition at capture time. Even in breezy conditions I can get better compositions at capture time more often with flowers etc than with invertebrates. And when invertebrates are moving around composition for me becomes something that is much more a matter of post processing than capture, pretty much entirely so for small invertebrates that are moving around.
For example, no way would I regard my recently posted photographs as good composition but they were what I could achieve at the time and demonstrate, to some extent a piece of behaviour unseen with the naked eye.

I guess it rather depends on what you are trying to achieve, I would love to create a wonderfully composed photograph each time
LOL! Yes, so would I. It isn't going to happen though. :)
but sadly find that quite hard to do!
Join the club!
Another reason for more practice!
Ah yes, practice, practice, practice. One of my mantras.
 
With respect to insects I mainly shoot bees and butterflies. Butterflies are relatively easy because they can remain stationary for a number of seconds. The most important points seem to be with regard to framing, lighting, and choice of aperture. The most important thing one can do to control a situation with Butterflies is to get low to the subject and shoot it from a direction that displays the subject and gives a nice, complementarily-colored background that is, in most cases, not brighter than the subject. I prefer shooting with my 300 F4 (subject is large) for distance from the subject and for background separation in most cases. The best backgrounds are often green and the best lighting is bright overcast.

Bees are super tough in a natural environment. I will position myself where I can shoot easily in several directions as the bee will just choose where it will visit in a way that I cannot anticipate. Waiting for a bee at a particular location is most often a fools errand. When a bee goes to a certain flower it is again key to try to envision the best shooting angle (to a degree one can predetermine this and know which flowers are good places to shoot and which are not). Once the bee is on one of the flowers I am watching, I simply watch and shoot when I am able to frame the subject in favorable light and in a decent pose. Often, though, the bee will not provide that pose and I don't shoot. Certain bees look best in certain flowers based on color and size. Certain species allow close approach and some don't. Thus, for me, the 300F4 can work best for Bumblebees, but lately, with long horned bees I am finding I can use my 60 macro near it's highest magnification. But this is very tough with the long horned bees as they move and rotate so quickly - and the flower often sways with wind - so that whether I can get a high magnification shot I might want is largely luck. There is no way I could obtain focus with higher than 1:1 on these bees; though I could with many Bumblebees.

I find that, with the eye typically being key, that shooting such as to have a small spectral highlight fall on the eye (if the eye is dark) emphasizes the eye as the principal subject. This is of course dependent on the ambient light and controlling the direction from which I shoot. Near the eye, face and head hairs will almost always be on the horizon of the bee as I shoot it. It is critical that these highlighted hairs be razor sharp. This is controlled by the subject distance, lens FL or magnification, and the aperture used. It is also lucky as the bee is often moving rapidly.

As to background with either bees or butterflies, I will not necessarily want a totally OOF background, but often want enough definition to hint at what is comprising the background - for instance flowers of the same type as that on which the bee is feeding. Too little definition and one misses this, and too much definition and the background is most often distracting

I agree that plants are much easier (unless it is windy) and I have much more control over shooting variables. But, minimizing spectral highlights, distractingly bright or colored and especially linear background elements, and controlling the balance between IF and OOF elements is very similar to shooting bees and butterflies - just easier. I also have more time and hence I will often focus bracket. As I walk through an area with attractive flowers I will just keep my eyes open for what I see to be a "nice setting". Sometimes there is one and sometimes there is not. It is usually best to be down nearly as low as the flower(s).

When shooting higher magnification or even close-up images of plant "details" the plant itself often determines how possible this is. Spindly plants are very hard to shoot because of the long stems; plants with long stamens and pistils are tough to shoot because of the great DOF one might want to have. It is also difficult to discern at the time of shooting exactly where the field of focus should lie.
 
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In the shots - the subjects fills the frame, there are strong leading lines , complimentary colors etc if the ant face follow the " fill the frame" dictum, eyes are approx on the rule of 1/3s etc . and that's part of why they work so well.

If the ant face was composed tiny in a huge frame ata poor angle it would fizzle.

IMHO part of what makes your shots generally very good is a strong following of traditional composition doctrine - fill the frame with the subject, use leading lines and complimentary colors, avoid distracting clutter etc.
None of those rules were followed when i shot those images. i shot those images because the composition looked right. i see no leading lines in any of them the lighting is different on them. all i do is crop to give the image the most impact to highlight the point of interest. the most important aspect of a good image is subject matter. how you keep peoples interest is constantly coming up with new ideas and different subjects. there's nothing more boring than seeing the same old insects/ birds with the same old lighting year after year gets a bit boring after a while. i learnt long ago a good image is a good image irrelevant of rules.

Don
 
Far be it for me to disagree with any of whats been said in this thread very many great points from people I would try to emulate in this genre. Composition is something I am aware of when taking photographs but sometimes have to be satisfied with what I can get at the time. For example, no way would I regard my recently posted photographs as good composition but they were what I could achieve at the time and demonstrate, to some extent a piece of behaviour unseen with the naked eye.
I guess it rather depends on what you are trying to achieve, I would love to create a wonderfully composed photograph each time but sadly find that quite hard to do! Another reason for more practice!
good post. just go out and have fun and shoot detail . the good catches are random but at least you have shot detail and texture so 90% of the image is there so your only waiting to snag the other 10%. which is pure luck dont let anyone confuse you with its practice or i composted the image in camera like that.

Don
 
Far be it for me to disagree with any of whats been said in this thread very many great points from people I would try to emulate in this genre. Composition is something I am aware of when taking photographs but sometimes have to be satisfied with what I can get at the time. For example, no way would I regard my recently posted photographs as good composition but they were what I could achieve at the time and demonstrate, to some extent a piece of behaviour unseen with the naked eye.

I guess it rather depends on what you are trying to achieve, I would love to create a wonderfully composed photograph each time but sadly find that quite hard to do! Another reason for more practice!
good post. just go out and have fun and shoot detail . the good catches are random but at least you have shot detail and texture so 90% of the image is there so your only waiting to snag the other 10%. which is pure luck dont let anyone confuse you with its practice or i composted the image in camera like that.

Don
Yes, luck plays a big part in finding particularly unusual and interesting scenes and moments. The more you get out there and look, the more you will find. And the more captures you take, the greater your chance of being lucky in cases where timing matters.



A lucky find of an unusual scene, in this case a static scene, for which I had plenty of time to work with. It is the only time I have seen something like this in more than 10 years.

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A lucky, momentary alignment, caught with a (unusual for me) "brute force" massive repetition "spray and pray" approach. This capture needed severe cropping to produce a usable composition as the action was right up against the top of the frame, with a big empty space below.

fc10dbf1fffe4009a178ac89eaaac59f.jpg




A momentary pose, caught in a sequence of shots (individually focused this time, not "spray and pray") while photographing a subject as it moved around, fast. The scene was captured in landscape orientation and cropped to portrait for greater impact.

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Developing muscle memory, field craft etc through practice can increase your chances of successfully capturing a fleeting opportunity, and for a static scene, not disturbing the scene or subject and destroying the opportunity. And learning from practice can increase your chances of using a suitable magnification, ISO, shutter speed and aperture when luck favours you with a golden opportunity. Post processing, including but not limited to cropping, can help make good use of whatever it was you did manage to capture, despite any infelicities in the captured image.

--
Nick
Flickr image collections http://www.flickr.com/photos/gardenersassistant/collections/
Blog
Summary of photo activity since 2007 https://fliesandflowers.blogspot.com/2019/01/when-i-retired-in-2006-i-had-it-in-mind.html
 
For identification purposes composition might not matter at all. As I understand it (which is not much btw), identifying species can depend on the details of a particular part of the animal or plant. I don't think composition has any role to play in such cases.
Correct.

If, for instance, I need to identy a spider down to species, it helps to take ANY picture where one can discern the particular trait that will give me the answer. And often there is no way to tell anyway unless one dissects the spider and examines the genitalia under a microscope (absolutely not my case, I will never catch or kill any critter, instead will be happy with just the genus in such cases).

Which is why I am more interested in how to OBTAIN a good enough picture (light, technique), where good enough doesn't mean pleasing to the eye, but only serving the purpose of identifying the organism.

That doesn't mean however that I do not like looking at 'pretty pictures'. Nicely composed, with wonderful light, of the kind often seen here on DPREVIEW. Some are absolutely stunning and beautiful and a joy to behold. They speak to me.

The people who shoot them really know their stuff, and I am sure they could produce awesome images even with a cardboard camera. May I extend my compliments to all of them... you guys rock! :-)
 

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