Camera scanning: live view inverted colors?

madlantern

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I’ve started to scan my old 35mm negatives with my Sony A7R III and a Canon 100mm Macro lens. I also have a Canon DSLR body.

Sometimes, I find it hard to align the photos completely in the center of the frame because the black areas are basically blank and blend in with the border areas of the negative.

Is it possible to get an inverted live view (either in camera or tethered on a computer) so I can better ascertain what the boundaries are?
 
I haven’t done it but I believe you can do something like that on Nikon DSLRs - https://richardhaw.com/2017/10/13/negative-digitization-with-a-nikon-dslr/
Yes, that's what inspired me to look for a solution. But that's only for the D850, and I don't have that unfortunately. Also, if you put it into that mode, it only does JPG, and I want raw files.

I've read some people allude to using LUTs to invert the colors. But that only seems applicable to video, and I'm not sure how they're using custom LUTs to invert colors for photography
 
I haven’t done it but I believe you can do something like that on Nikon DSLRs - https://richardhaw.com/2017/10/13/negative-digitization-with-a-nikon-dslr/
Yes, that's what inspired me to look for a solution. But that's only for the D850, and I don't have that unfortunately. Also, if you put it into that mode, it only does JPG, and I want raw files.
I think there is a feature of the D850 (and D780) which automatically does inversion, but using Picture Controls applies to more cameras (from the Nikon web site)
  • NP3, NP2, NCP: Z mount mirrorless cameras, D6, D780
  • NP2, NCP: Z mount mirrorless cameras, D6, D5, D500, D850, D810/D810A, D780, D750, D7500, D7200, D5500/D5600
  • NCP: D3/D3X/D3S/D4/D4S, Df, D800/D800E, D700, D600/D610,
  • D300/D300S, D7000/D7100, D5000/D5100/D5200/D5300, D90, Nikon 1 series (except the J5), COOLPIX A
You would need to build your inversion profile. I think you also need to use Nikon software if you want it to affect the NEF (RAW) file.








I've read some people allude to using LUTs to invert the colors. But that only seems applicable to video, and I'm not sure how they're using custom LUTs to invert colors for photography
 
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I haven’t done it but I believe you can do something like that on Nikon DSLRs - https://richardhaw.com/2017/10/13/negative-digitization-with-a-nikon-dslr/
Yes, that's what inspired me to look for a solution. But that's only for the D850, and I don't have that unfortunately. Also, if you put it into that mode, it only does JPG, and I want raw files.

I've read some people allude to using LUTs to invert the colors. But that only seems applicable to video, and I'm not sure how they're using custom LUTs to invert colors for photography
There are external monitors with built-in LUTs, false colors and other tools, in some, you can upload your own LUT. By linking the camera via HDMI, you can see the preview with the applied LUT, which does not affect captured image.

You can also try to switch off viewfinder exposure effect in the camera menu, and the ISO will go higher in the viewfinder, which might help to see the edges better.

Filmomat SmartConvert for mobile can make a realtime conversion on your phone, so you can check your images on the lightbox prior to the scanning. It can also work in tethered mode via dedicated folder (desktop version) for the fast check after capture.

You might consider to shot wider, getting image with the film borders and even perforation, and crop later. With 42Mpx to start with, you won’t lost much meaningful resolution, if any.

You can cut film frames using a dedicated film cutter and place it in the slide holders for scanning.

Maybe some of these thoughts would help or inspire you to find the best solution for you.

--
http://verybiglobo.com/
https://500px.com/p/verybiglobo?view=photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/viktor_viktor/
 
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I use a Mac and in system preferences I go to Accessibility-->Display-->Invert Colors when I shoot tethered into the NX Tether option as I scan. The base color is still off because of the orange mask on color film (which makes the scanned film too cool) but is much easier to approximate the end result when using this.
 
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