Best Non-Adobe software for Image editing on a Mac?

[CAcreeks]

I think Affinity uses its own raw conversion (libraw?), but I can't recall. I think Topaz uses libraw so that should work. Point being check the software you buy...

I haven't found anything better for RAW conversion than the OEM software (Olympus Workspace). It's not the best general purpose photo editing software but it does a terrific job of RAW development. Once the image is exported in TIFF format I switch to another program for further processing.

Olympus has way-above-average JPEG colors and quality, so the similar algorithms of Olympus Workspace are a plus. I remember the Mike Tomkins article about Oly Workspace vs Adobe Camera Raw:

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www.dpreview.com

After reading the article, my only question is whether Oly Workspace works well on Apple Silicon. I don't remember reading anything about it.

 

[Tom_N]

After reading the article, my only question is whether Oly Workspace works well on Apple Silicon. I don't remember reading anything about it.

The current version is not M1-native and so must run under Rosetta 2 translation. Also, some Olympus cameras cannot make USB connections to M1-based Macs.

Olympus – Q&A for Olympus Workspace

 

[PocketPixels]

Being new to Mac, what are Apple sandbox rules and how do App Store apps differ from regular apps downloaded from the software company's website?

Broadly, there are three ways to get commercial software into your Mac:

1. Buying software at a retail store via CD-ROM, DVD-ROM, or USB stick
2. Buying software downloads from the developer's website
3. Buying the software through the Mac App Store

1. This rarely happens anymore. Many Macs don't even have media drives. A lot of the software boxes sold at Best Buy or the Apple Store in the mall are really just download codes in cardboard boxes.

2. When you buy software straight from the developer, you have a direct customer-vendor relationship with that developer. They process your credit card, they send you an Email with your serial number or activation code, etc. Every software publisher has its own way of doing business: some offer lifetime upgrades, some charge you a yearly fee, some offer minor updates for free, but major upgrade require buying the software over again. If you buy a new Mac or perform a full reinstall, you often have to download your software all over again and re-type your activation codes and serial numbers. Every software developer is different. Some are very careful with your credit card data, some not so much. Some care a great deal about earning and keeping your loyalty, some just want a quick buck. Some developers go out of business or discontinue beloved products, so you should save your installer files as backups.

3. When you buy software through the Mac App store, Apple takes a percentage. Apple claims to do a lot of work on virus scans, compatibility tests, and quality checks for apps it sells via the App Store. Whether these quality-control efforts are worth that 30% cut is currently a subject of major federal litigation. Prices on the Mac App Store are comparable to prices buying apps on your own, so you aren't paying this fee; the developers are. You are Apple's customer, not the developer's customer, so the software publisher doesn't have your credit card and doesn't have a direct relationship with you. If your laptop gets stolen, or if you reinstall your system, you can usually download all your apps from the App Store without having to re-buy activation codes or serial numbers. Because Apple wants to get that 30% cut, software sold via the App Store can often be upgraded, customized, or extended ONLY via plug-ins and upgrades that are also sold via the App Store.

So, if you have an image-editing program that you bought via the App Store, it could well be that you cannot install Topaz plug-ins that you bought in a retail store or via direct download.

There are some nuances and exceptions to these three channels, and I'm sure subsequent comments will explore them. But the three channels I've described are broadly the state of play in the MacOS software industry.

 

[robgendreau]

Yea, I'm ready to buy Affinity. I would have already bought it but my Mac Mini won't be here for another week.

I shoot Olympus and use the OEM software to convert from RAW to 16-bit TIFF as a first step in my processing sequence. Just need a good "Photoshop Like" editor that wont break the bank. It seems that Affinity will work.

...

Note that Apple Raw still does not support your E-M1iii.

The E-M1iii uses the same RAW format as the E-M1ii (which is supported). I think the only thing that prevents it from working is the camera model entry in the EXIF data.

I did that with my now-gone E-M5 for a while, hacked the exif info. Results were sometimes a bit less than I expected, but not sure why. Back then Apple supported Oly cameras.

I think Affinity uses its own raw conversion (libraw?), but I can't recall. I think Topaz uses libraw so that should work. Point being check the software you buy since it won't be able to rely on Apple's support for it. I rather doubt Apple is ever going to support that camera.

I haven't found anything better for RAW conversion than the OEM software (Olympus Workspace). It's not the best general purpose photo editing software but it does a terrific job of RAW development. Once the image is exported in TIFF format I switch to another program for further processing.

I agree. It's quite nice. I still prefer Adobe but in part that's due to other stuff I do with Lr and Ps.

I just don't find it handy when I need to look at an image in a folder, since macOS provides no previews for E-M1iii raws.

 

[Gesture]

Thanks for a thoughtful explanation.

 

[Jeff Wahaus]

After reading the article, my only question is whether Oly Workspace works well on Apple Silicon. I don't remember reading anything about it.

The current version is not M1-native and so must run under Rosetta 2 translation. Also, some Olympus cameras cannot make USB connections to M1-based Macs.

Olympus – Q&A for Olympus Workspace

It looks like I have one of the few camera's that does work with the M1 Mac's USB. I'll have to update the firmware, however, since I'm at v1.2.

[ E-M1 Mark III ]

Ver.1.3
(Apr. 06 2021)

• USB transmission with Mac equipped with M1 chip is now supported.
• Stability of connection with ATOMOS products has been improved.

 

[Jeff Wahaus]

Yea, I'm ready to buy Affinity. I would have already bought it but my Mac Mini won't be here for another week.

I shoot Olympus and use the OEM software to convert from RAW to 16-bit TIFF as a first step in my processing sequence. Just need a good "Photoshop Like" editor that wont break the bank. It seems that Affinity will work.

...

Note that Apple Raw still does not support your E-M1iii.

The E-M1iii uses the same RAW format as the E-M1ii (which is supported). I think the only thing that prevents it from working is the camera model entry in the EXIF data.

I did that with my now-gone E-M5 for a while, hacked the exif info. Results were sometimes a bit less than I expected, but not sure why. Back then Apple supported Oly cameras.

I think Affinity uses its own raw conversion (libraw?), but I can't recall. I think Topaz uses libraw so that should work. Point being check the software you buy since it won't be able to rely on Apple's support for it. I rather doubt Apple is ever going to support that camera.

I haven't found anything better for RAW conversion than the OEM software (Olympus Workspace). It's not the best general purpose photo editing software but it does a terrific job of RAW development. Once the image is exported in TIFF format I switch to another program for further processing.

I agree. It's quite nice. I still prefer Adobe but in part that's due to other stuff I do with Lr and Ps.

I just don't find it handy when I need to look at an image in a folder, since macOS provides no previews for E-M1iii raws.

I don't really mind no raw previews. Windows doesn't do this either. I always shoot RAW+JPEG so I have previews from the JPEGs.

I won't be editing my images EXIF's to appease the built-in support. Hopefully Apple will add the E-M1iii support soon, it would be so easy to do.

 

[lightandaprayer]

I don't really mind no raw previews. Windows doesn't do this either. I always shoot RAW+JPEG so I have previews from the JPEGs.

You don't need to shoot RAW+JPEG. The camera will automatically create JPEG previews when shooting only RAW. Unless you have a need for having all of your images in both formats, you can save space on your memory cards and image storage by shooting only RAW. Export JPEGs individually or batched when you actually need them. A bonus is that they will probably be better quality when compared to the camera-processed JPEGs.

There are very good reasons to work with previews based on the RAW image data vs. JPEGs if you work with RAW files in post:

The Three Most Obvious Reasons to Look at RAW and Not Cull Based On Previews

 

[ChrisLumix]

Pixelmator, or Affinity Photos. Two very capable programs. P is cheaper and gives you a bit less, but is familiar to Photoshop users. AP involves a learning curve, but is very powerful and offers a lot.

 

[IanF_BW]

I use Capture One and find it much better than Lightroom or Elements, which I never clicked with. Never been a big user of Layers/masks but it does them too.

I suspect using it in combination with DxO and/or Topaz would produce an even better result, but life’s too short! I do most of my work in C1, occasionally looping the file through SFX Pro if I can’t get the B&W conversion to look right in C1

I only use Apple Photos to show my better pictures to normal people (ie my wife). C1 let’s you export pre-defined versions of files (eg JPEG optimised for screen viewing etc), which I send to a folder which is watched by a macro I created in Automator and sends it into a specific folder in Photos. I’m sure other programs also allow you to do this.

 

[Rich42]

I've decided to get my feet wet with Apple Mac. I'm a long time computer user and programmer (30+ years) but I've never done anything Apple. Windows is getting so bad that don't see myself wanting to support it in the future so I have a new Mac Mini (M1 CPU) on the way.

I'm familiar with Adobe products and I have a non-rent version of Photoshop on my Windows 10 PC but in order to use it on the Mac I'm going to have to pay the monthly rental fee which I'm not going to do. I don't mind buying software, something in the $100 range, but I'm not going to rent software.

So, what do the Mac users that don't use Adobe use to edit their photos?

I had long resisted "renting" Adobe software. I used Photoshop CS6 (perpetual license) for as long as I could.

Then I woke up. As much as you want to believe Adobe is somehow evil about forcing you to rent -

The "Photography Bundle" is US $9.95 per month.

9.95 a month!

That's Photoshop (including ACR and Bridge - which is worth the entire price alone) , and Lightroom and Lightroom Classic (on every device you own), all always up to date, plus several other programs which I can't remember at the moment because I've not looked into them. And 1 TB of storage.

If the price of a couple of cups of coffee a month is too much to have the best image editing software in existence is too much, something is wrong. There is no need to say the programs are as good as, or almost as good as, or any other excuse-making compared to the best.

I have all the image processing power I could ever use and two different DAMs (I use only Bridge - it is the best kept secret in the business)

Adobe never owns your images. You are never locked out. You can have access to them as long as you pay a ridiculously low fee, or forever-after with some simple planning on your part.

I have absolutely no association with Adobe other than as a customer. They are making excellent software available at a very fair price, no matter how you analyze it. They are not gouging. And they live up to their end of the deal. It really is a no-brainer. Even if one hates Adobe.

I have up to date versions of all the Affinity programs, and Pixelmator, and Hasselblad Phocus, and Capture One, many Raw converters. I "visit" them from time to time. But they all sit unused because the industry standard makes them irrelevant.

Rich

 

[Jacques Cornell]

I've decided to get my feet wet with Apple Mac. I'm a long time computer user and programmer (30+ years) but I've never done anything Apple. Windows is getting so bad that don't see myself wanting to support it in the future so I have a new Mac Mini (M1 CPU) on the way.

I'm familiar with Adobe products and I have a non-rent version of Photoshop on my Windows 10 PC but in order to use it on the Mac I'm going to have to pay the monthly rental fee which I'm not going to do. I don't mind buying software, something in the $100 range, but I'm not going to rent software.

So, what do the Mac users that don't use Adobe use to edit their photos?

For RAW processing, especially for noise reduction, detail extraction, and lens correction, DxO's PhotoLab 4 Elite is absolutely the bee's knees.

 

[Jefftan]

Capture One charges more for Olympus camera users? why u say that? all buy the same program if not get the free version

 

[Jefftan]

For RAW processing, especially for noise reduction, detail extraction, and lens correction, DxO's PhotoLab 4 Elite is absolutely the bee's knees.

maybe but except color, c1 color is the best

 

[Jefftan]

c1 with DXO pureRaw is the best combination

For some reason Capture One charges more for Olympus camera users and we're relegated to the "other cameras" realm.

I've tried DXO and prefer the Topaz products for noise reduction and sharpening.

in extreme shot like MFT ISO 25600 in low light, Topaz can't touch DXO DeepPrime and more complicated with 4 different mode

 

[Jeff Wahaus]

Capture One charges more for Olympus camera users? why u say that? all buy the same program if not get the free version

It seems really odd to charge more (33%) for customers that use camera's that aren't Sony, Fuji, or Nikon.

Also, they don't have lens profile for some of the newer M.Zuiko lenses like the 100-400mm and 150-400mm.

 

[Jeff Wahaus]

c1 with DXO pureRaw is the best combination

For some reason Capture One charges more for Olympus camera users and we're relegated to the "other cameras" realm.

I've tried DXO and prefer the Topaz products for noise reduction and sharpening.

in extreme shot like MFT ISO 25600 in low light, Topaz can't touch DXO DeepPrime and more complicated with 4 different mode

That may have been true before v3.x of Topaz. They've added a "Severe Noise" mode that handles extreme ISO very well.

I rarely shoot above ISO 1600 and when I do I typically use ISO 6400 or lower.

 

[Jeff Wahaus]

I've decided to get my feet wet with Apple Mac. I'm a long time computer user and programmer (30+ years) but I've never done anything Apple. Windows is getting so bad that don't see myself wanting to support it in the future so I have a new Mac Mini (M1 CPU) on the way.

I'm familiar with Adobe products and I have a non-rent version of Photoshop on my Windows 10 PC but in order to use it on the Mac I'm going to have to pay the monthly rental fee which I'm not going to do. I don't mind buying software, something in the $100 range, but I'm not going to rent software.

So, what do the Mac users that don't use Adobe use to edit their photos?

I had long resisted "renting" Adobe software. I used Photoshop CS6 (perpetual license) for as long as I could.

Then I woke up. As much as you want to believe Adobe is somehow evil about forcing you to rent -

I don't think Adobe is evil, I just prefer to own software outright (perpetual license).

The "Photography Bundle" is US $9.95 per month.

9.95 a month!

That's Photoshop (including ACR and Bridge - which is worth the entire price alone) , and Lightroom and Lightroom Classic (on every device you own), all always up to date, plus several other programs which I can't remember at the moment because I've not looked into them. And 1 TB of storage.

I tried the photography bundle last year. I found that Photoshop's interface has been cleaned up a bit and many features have been extended but Photoshop CS3 (which I own on my Windows 10 PC) does everything I need. Photoshop CS3 also loads and performs much faster and uses less memory than the newer version.

I tried the new direct RAW support (Olympus .ORF files) and found that it loaded the images okay but when you went to save the image it would mess up the color and reloading a saved image would give the image a strong blue cast. I contacted Adobe support and they refused to acknowledge this as a bug. They instructed me to use the file export option (instead of save or saveas) and that did fix the problem but shouldn't be necessary. Their refusal to acknowledge the bug gave me a very bad impression.

If the price of a couple of cups of coffee a month is too much to have the best image editing software in existence is too much, something is wrong. There is no need to say the programs are as good as, or almost as good as, or any other excuse-making compared to the best.

I don't know where you buy your coffee but for less than $9.95 I can buy more than a pound of coffee and make hundreds of cups.

$120 per year to use Adobe isn't terribly expensive but it does add up over time. That's $360 over 3 years and $597 over 5 years...

I have all the image processing power I could ever use and two different DAMs (I use only Bridge - it is the best kept secret in the business)

Adobe never owns your images. You are never locked out. You can have access to them as long as you pay a ridiculously low fee, or forever-after with some simple planning on your part.

I use ACDsee to browse directories of images and have found that using the file system directory structure is all I need to organize files. Using Adobe's software to organize files locks you into a proprietary database format that requires Adobe software to use.

I have up to date versions of all the Affinity programs, and Pixelmator, and Hasselblad Phocus, and Capture One, many Raw converters. I "visit" them from time to time. But they all sit unused because the industry standard makes them irrelevant.

There is something to be said for being able to use a single program for all your editing and processing needs. Having only one user interface to learn does make things simpler.

I may eventually go the Adobe route but I'm going to try out the less expensive options first. For most people using Photoshop, 90% of its features go unused.

 

[jtstanco]

I think the camera specific versions take into account is that Sony, Fujifilm, and Nikon have all made deals with Capture 1 to offer free camera specific versions of Capture 1 Express. Also, if a person uses both Sony and Nikon for example, they need to purchase the full version at the higher price.

Capture One charges more for Olympus camera users? why u say that? all buy the same program if not get the free version

It seems really odd to charge more (33%) for customers that use camera's that aren't Sony, Fuji, or Nikon.

Also, they don't have lens profile for some of the newer M.Zuiko lenses like the 100-400mm and 150-400mm.

 

[grcolts]

Check out ACDSEE Photo Studio 7 and Affinity Photo. Together they make a wonderful package for imaging processing. I don't yet have Studio 7 but have Studio 6 and it does most of the processing I need. For those special images that need more Affinity Photo fits the bill. Both software packages are really priced reasonably too.