a special technique i learned

Check http://www.mydigitaldiscount.com/default.php?cPath=65_99_100
they have some for $11.99 and $14.99

Claude
i'll remember that!

also i need a big CF card.
its gonna be a long 4-hours-endurance car race!
i have one battery for my Rebel, its the only one...
Are there any 3rd parties batteries for my Rebel?

Thanks,

Takki
But at that point/place i need a max of 200mm, enough...
OR i'll look INTO his helmet...

Hey THATS CHALLENGING!!!!
WoW...

But IF i stand very very far of the track (using 300mm), THEN I
SHOULD use a very short shutter of 1/2000 or 1/4000.
And an ISO of 400?
Keep the shutter speed down.If you go much over 1/400sec you begin
to freeze the wheels. At 1/1000sec it looks very strange if your
panning. The background shows movement but you freeze the wheels so
the car looks like it is standing still.

The key here is follow through. Half press to focus while panning
and click but continue to track. Use the continuous mode and take 3
or 4 clicks while panning. I would put the camera in Tv mode and
pick a shutter speed in the 1/200 to 1/300sec range. Fast enough to
keep the car sharp but not so fast to freeze the tires/rims. Pick
the iso to give you the aperture you need. Or just go totally
manual say f8 and 1/200sec with whatever iso to get it to meter.
BUT WHY did i get that COOL/beautifull shot with a poor old HP
photosmart 720 digi camera??????!!!!!!!
(its not a SLR, just a cheap digital one)
Good panning and the right shutter speed to show movement.
IF i can do that with a poor cam, then i should do it well with the
Rebel?!

?????????

Takki

P.S. I'm new with SLR's...........
Being in at 300mm youre going to have to be EXTREMELY steady when
you do it. It gets harder the farther in you are, so you might need
practice for awhile before you get it down. Id try to get the
FASTEST shutter speed you can no matter what, and then trying to
follow the car around the track, best of luck!
--
Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'
 
No, IS won't help increase the shutter speed... only lighting and ISO will increase your shutter speed to capture the hair.

IS will help keep the camera image steady, that is all... the rest of the photography is in the camera setting & photographer.

IS is for camera steadyness, that is all... and this of course is related to shutter speed, apeture, lighting which affect how long you have to keep the camera STEADY to get the picture... take a photography course, and you will see all this stuff in action or just sit down at a road side and experiment. If you don't understand yet, than don't buy any lenses until you do... but taking on the forum here can only give you so much information... you need to go out and try for yourself before you will see how it all works for you.

Like you said, you are new to SLR, don't try to learn it all for Sunday because it will not happen.

Andrew
good opportunity to use IS!

BUT IS will NOT work if i hold the camera steady/still and the
pitbabe is moving her hand into her blond hair????
(but the shot will get blurry because of her movement OR....maybe
it won't get blurry because of a fast/normal shutter during
daylight)

please give a comment about this guyz!

Takki
Example like you said, if you see something like a pit babe or nice
car, you will pick up the camera, set it to auto, point and shoot
to capture the moment... IS will help get a sharp picture.

http://www.usa.canon.com/eflenses/technology/imagestabilizer.html

IS has a lense that is attached to GYROs, when gyros spin which is
what they do, they do not like to move... they try to stay frozen
in space... so when you hold the camera and you shake, cuz thats
what people do, the IS keeps the picture still for us which helps
when the shutter speed is slower... so anytime you are pointing &
shooting IS will help.

Andrew
but if i see a pitbabe walking from distance, will the IS be an
advantage?
Or if I see a race driver like Schumacher walking in the pits, is
IS better then?

Takki
 
Hi Takki. Yes I was with Kenny. I met him for the first time up there and bought the 75-300 lens off him and also spent the day with him, chatting and in my case, learning a few things from him (Thanks again Kenny) The Hyundai shot was taken at the start line so it was stationary at the time (no panning, IS on) All the panning shots I shot, I used Kenny's advice and it worked very well. I just need some more practice now.

Just use Kenny's technique and see how you get on

Charlie
you two were at the rally?

I saw that red Hyundai again.

you were standing next to Charlie?

LOL!

Takki
 
To prevent blur caused by camera shake they say you should be using a shutter speed that is twice your focal length, so if you are trying to handhold the camera at 300mm you should use a shutter of 1/600th of a second, this is more a guideline than i rule, i've taken plenty of good handheld shots with shutter speeds equal to the focal length and below.
 
Everybody thank you for helping me,
I'll practise a lot before going to the track/circuit.

If I have questions, I'll come back here for sure.

And watch out for my shots next Sunday!!!

Bye ALL!

Takki
 

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