Yes - here are a couple in-progress examples I have handy (sorry for the lame commercial subject matter...)
If I post what I'm supposed to be working on, it's not procrastination, right?
Oh, totally. In fact, explaining things to people is 100% productive use of time!
If I understand what you might mean by redundant panning, that would be true only if the tripod and base of the ball head were level. I see the purpose of the panning/leveling adapter is the ability to have level panning independent of the tripod angle.There are many approaches! For some, architectural photography is a lot like studio/tabletop work with precision positioning and framing, which is where the Cube is helpful. Others find that cumbersome.The cube seems to me like primary a studio tool. Just me.Not Ken, but that's just RRS's center column. Useful for shooting studio/interiors when you need to adjust camera height a bit.Ken, I have looked at these pics again, and beside my questions below, please tell me what you have there. You have the 34L but have added a center column? What is that pole sticking down the below the apex? What is the silver twist knob above the apex? Then what is that round thing that the cube is mounted on? Ten comes the Cube.
This is the way I primarily use the lens.
Another option with a really right stuff lens collar with arca plate. In my experience when doing shifting and stitching, I don’t see any advantage to use the lens collar versus an L bracket for shifting and stitching the way I’ve been doing for many years with the Canon lenses like in the photo above .
The Cube options can be categorized into 1. top pan style, and 2. clamp style.
1 a) Simple top pan with no detents or gearing, b) Geared-top pan with no detents, or c) click-detent top panning for pano use.
2 a) Standard Arca clamp in screw knob or b) lever 'Fliplock', c) 'Monoball Fix' clamp (IMO avoid unless you know what it's for).
I wouldn't start with a Cube - start by adding a panning clamp to your ballhead. It gets to be too much junk to carry w/ multiple heads. The ballhead with a panning clamp works for rotational panos too.
Ball head w/ top pan vs ball head + leveling base generally accomplish the same thing. One (may have) redundant panning, the other has redundant ball joints. I like the simplicity of an inverted ball head like the Arca P0 or P1.
I can see that also. Thanks.
Alan_b did rise at an angle. Compare those shifted and non-shifted pictures – look at verticals. That's the trick why to use T/S lenses, or one of them.
I don't know if this will help or hinder understanding, but there are two different ways to think about what Alan did.
I also am coming from view cameras and still using a Cambo Actus view camera with my a7RIV. But in my mind all rise, fall and shift to left or to right are the same movement, the shift (only to the various directions).
Rise is pretty easy to get a hand on. But I’ve yet to experiment with rotating the lens and using rise at an angle. I’ll wait for Alan’s answer but it looks to me like vertical rise for distortion correction and a simple pan to reframe horizontally.
No, no pan. After levelling your camera you can shift the lens to any direction without loosing the level and so keeping the verticals vertical.
Yes. You can only shift in one axis with a t/s lens, up or down. But you also have the lens rotation feature which makes the lens more flexible. You shift up then rotate the lens 90 degrees to convert the up shift into a left or right shift. You can rotate the lens 45 degrees to turn the shift into a diagonal shift to the left or a diagonal shift to the right. A diagonal shift has the effect of a simultaneous rise (up shift) and lateral shift (left/right shift).
