Finally got a chance to try out HF anti-flicker

[Alastair Norcross]

My R6II has a feature called "HF anti-flicker", which works with electronic shutter (unlike regular anti-flicker, which has been around for a while). You have to be in M or Tv mode to use it, because it sets your shutter speed to very precise settings. It's easy to use. You tell it to detect the lighting, which takes just a few seconds, then it selects a precise shutter speed, such as 1/119.9s to avoid any flickering effects. You can select that speed, or whole multiples of it. I was indoors at a rehearsal yesterday, where the lighting was a bit problematic (consecutive shots in a burst would have radically different color casts), so I thought I'd try it. It was very easy, and, for the rest of the rehearsal I shot at 1/239.9s (I think). My usual minimum setting for people shots is 1/250, so this was close enough. It worked like a treat, and the RF 85 F2 was, as usual, a joy to use. That's such a fun lens, and great value for money. Here are a few examples:

Edit: I see that DPR displays the shutter speed as 1/250. That must be rounding up. In DXO PL6, it shows as 1/240, and in the camera, it shows as 1/239.9.

--
“When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror, like the passengers in his car.” Jack Handey
Alastair
http://anorcross.smugmug.com
Equipment in profile

 

[JustUs7]

Did you test drive with a ‘normal’ shutter speed to see if it made a meaningful difference vs 1/250th?

 

[Ephemeris]

My R6II has a feature called "HF anti-flicker", which works with electronic shutter (unlike regular anti-flicker, which has been around for a while). You have to be in M or Tv mode to use it, because it sets your shutter speed to very precise settings. It's easy to use. You tell it to detect the lighting, which takes just a few seconds, then it selects a precise shutter speed, such as 1/119.9s to avoid any flickering effects. You can select that speed, or whole multiples of it. I was indoors at a rehearsal yesterday, where the lighting was a bit problematic (consecutive shots in a burst would have radically different color casts), so I thought I'd try it. It was very easy, and, for the rest of the rehearsal I shot at 1/239.9s (I think). My usual minimum setting for people shots is 1/250, so this was close enough. It worked like a treat, and the RF 85 F2 was, as usual, a joy to use. That's such a fun lens, and great value for money. Here are a few examples:

Edit: I see that DPR displays the shutter speed as 1/250. That must be rounding up. In DXO PL6, it shows as 1/240, and in the camera, it shows as 1/239.9.

--
“When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror, like the passengers in his car.” Jack Handey
Alastair
http://anorcross.smugmug.com
Equipment in profile

Interesting stuff. We don't have something quite so advanced. The R5 has some flicker setting. I did use it at a recent indoor event but didn't think I should be in Tv. I shot in Av and Auto ISO.

 

[Alastair Norcross]

Did you test drive with a ‘normal’ shutter speed to see if it made a meaningful difference vs 1/250th?

Yes, I started out with the shutter set at 1/250. What I noticed was significant shifts in color balance between successive shots in a burst (I usually shoot at low speed continuous for this kind of shooting), which was why I thought I'd try this setting. The color differences could have been corrected in post, but it was easier to use a setting that didn't have them. It wasn't banding, though, so using this setting wasn't essential.

 

[PNad]

Did you test drive with a ‘normal’ shutter speed to see if it made a meaningful difference vs 1/250th?

Yes, I started out with the shutter set at 1/250. What I noticed was significant shifts in color balance between successive shots in a burst (I usually shoot at low speed continuous for this kind of shooting), which was why I thought I'd try this setting. The color differences could have been corrected in post, but it was easier to use a setting that didn't have them. It wasn't banding, though, so using this setting wasn't essential.

You are confusing flicker reduction (wich sync the shutter release with the light frequency) and high frequency flicker reduction (wich sync the electronic shutter scan speed with the light frequencies, usually LEDs) You didn’t need the later in your case.

 

[Alastair Norcross]

Did you test drive with a ‘normal’ shutter speed to see if it made a meaningful difference vs 1/250th?

Yes, I started out with the shutter set at 1/250. What I noticed was significant shifts in color balance between successive shots in a burst (I usually shoot at low speed continuous for this kind of shooting), which was why I thought I'd try this setting. The color differences could have been corrected in post, but it was easier to use a setting that didn't have them. It wasn't banding, though, so using this setting wasn't essential.

You are confusing flicker reduction with high frequency flicker reduction. You didn’t need the later in your case.

Nope, I’m not confusing anything. I know the difference. I already said I didn’t need it, but it was a good opportunity to try it out. And I didn’t get the shifts in color balance once I started using it. Regular flicker reduction doesn’t work with e-shutter.

 

[PNad]

Did you test drive with a ‘normal’ shutter speed to see if it made a meaningful difference vs 1/250th?

Yes, I started out with the shutter set at 1/250. What I noticed was significant shifts in color balance between successive shots in a burst (I usually shoot at low speed continuous for this kind of shooting), which was why I thought I'd try this setting. The color differences could have been corrected in post, but it was easier to use a setting that didn't have them. It wasn't banding, though, so using this setting wasn't essential.

You are confusing flicker reduction with high frequency flicker reduction. You didn’t need the later in your case.

Nope, I’m not confusing anything. I know the difference. I already said I didn’t need it, but it was a good opportunity to try it out. And I didn’t get the shifts in color balance once I started using it. Regular flicker reduction doesn’t work with e-shutter.

Yes you are, Regular flicker reduction is whats working with the Eshutter now with the R3 (and i assume the R6ii as well since they share alot of similarities, like the HF stuff) there never was a HF anti flicker for mech shutters, that option was always exclusively for eshutter since high frequency banding is a eshutter problem only.

 

[Alastair Norcross]

Did you test drive with a ‘normal’ shutter speed to see if it made a meaningful difference vs 1/250th?

Yes, I started out with the shutter set at 1/250. What I noticed was significant shifts in color balance between successive shots in a burst (I usually shoot at low speed continuous for this kind of shooting), which was why I thought I'd try this setting. The color differences could have been corrected in post, but it was easier to use a setting that didn't have them. It wasn't banding, though, so using this setting wasn't essential.

You are confusing flicker reduction with high frequency flicker reduction. You didn’t need the later in your case.

Nope, I’m not confusing anything. I know the difference. I already said I didn’t need it, but it was a good opportunity to try it out. And I didn’t get the shifts in color balance once I started using it. Regular flicker reduction doesn’t work with e-shutter.

Yes you are, Regular flicker reduction is whats working with the Eshutter now with the R3 (and i assume the R6ii as well since they share alot of similaritie, like HF anti flicker) there never was a HF anti flicker for mech shutters, that option was always exclusively for eshutter.

Wrong, again. Perhaps you should do some research, before making assumptions. As I already said, regular flicker reduction doesn't work with e-shutter on the R6II. I actually own the R6II, and can verify this from trying to set it with e-shutter enabled (you get an error message). And I never said that HF anti-flicker was for mechanical shutters. That was actually my point. Perhaps you should actually read what I posted. The R6II does indeed share many features of the R3, and even has better AF, but the readout speed on the R6II is slower than on the R3. It's faster than any other R camera, but not the R3. If regular flicker reduction works with the R3 in e-shutter, it's because the readout speed is faster.

--
“When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror, like the passengers in his car.” Jack Handey
Alastair
http://anorcross.smugmug.com
Equipment in profile

 

[JustUs7]

Did you test drive with a ‘normal’ shutter speed to see if it made a meaningful difference vs 1/250th?

Yes, I started out with the shutter set at 1/250. What I noticed was significant shifts in color balance between successive shots in a burst (I usually shoot at low speed continuous for this kind of shooting), which was why I thought I'd try this setting. The color differences could have been corrected in post, but it was easier to use a setting that didn't have them. It wasn't banding, though, so using this setting wasn't essential.

--
“When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror, like the passengers in his car.” Jack Handey
Alastair
http://anorcross.smugmug.com
Equipment in profile

I use that setting for meetings and such. I’m on camera for four hours straight once a week and I use the HF Anti-Flicker for that.



Around the holidays I like doing focus brackets of Christmas ornaments lit by the tree LED’s. Flicker was a problem for my RP. Looking forward to testing that out on my R6II.

You can see hints of the banding in the bokeh. It was much more severe in the single images but the stack hid it a bit.

 

[RLight]

Wish I’d read this before todays recital. Kudos for explaining it. Not your fault I didn’t read the manual…

Looks effective. Don’t see any artifacts.

 

[Ephemeris]

Interesting reading. I went and looked in the appropriate manual to read about it. That would have been handy in a massive event hall last week.

Canon : Product Manual : EOS R6 Mark II : High-Frequency Anti-Flicker Shooting