X-T2 & EF-X8 flash for party in medium low light b/day party with 18-55

LDJS Photography wrote:

I've been playing around with it and as far as I can tell it seems to know to work pretty well if you set 1/250 - the hss speed on the X-T2 - auto ISO and whatever F number you need

I tried using it in manual and non auto ISO etc but it seemed of little value or turned out actually worse than the above....

It seems it's designed best for just simple use - 'set and forget' - as in the 1st paragraph?

Doing a friend's 50th in a church hall and sold all my fast primes so....

HSS and auto ISO ?

Think you will be better off using a fixed ISO and slower shutter speed (flash is pretty good at freezing movement) unless you want to carry a pocket full of camera batteries.

Better still, get something you can use of camera for a good play.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-geS1_5nDhw&ab_channel=EricFloberg

Paulmorgan wrote:

LDJS Photography wrote:

I've been playing around with it and as far as I can tell it seems to know to work pretty well if you set 1/250 - the hss speed on the X-T2 - auto ISO and whatever F number you need

I tried using it in manual and non auto ISO etc but it seemed of little value or turned out actually worse than the above....

It seems it's designed best for just simple use - 'set and forget' - as in the 1st paragraph?

Doing a friend's 50th in a church hall and sold all my fast primes so....

HSS and auto ISO ?

Yeah with TTL auto mode

Yeah on youtube as more say don't use it (auto ISO) as say do use it. Basicaly they say what you said.

But It seems to work for me with this particular flash.

I think your advice is probs the norm for other brands (I really have no idea did some reading and some say auto ISO will make it too bright, but with this Fuji set up it doesn't in fact it makes it less bright than manual VS TTL) but I get the feeling this fuji clip on flash might be configured for basic bozos like me to point and shoot?

Like the X100 built in flash seems to work perfect in auto for fill?

I don't even really know what HHS means lol, I guess it it the highest speed the flash will synch with the shutter? I don't know what that actually means in reality though? I'm guesing above that they will be out of alignment?

Think you will be better off using a fixed ISO and slower shutter speed (flash is pretty good at freezing movement)

Even with a slow shutter speed? I thought it was s/speed that determines how movement is captured well at least without flash it is. You're saying with flash it makes somehow the s/speed faster?

I'm not that much up on flash TBH I used to be but that was 6 years ago and I forgot it all, had a Nikon with a big SB600 or some kind of thing, diffuser, swivel, bounce etc, learned it and now forgot it all ah ah

unless you want to carry a pocket full of camera batteries.

I have three so should be ok and will be able to charge spent ones there. I'm only going to do a few bits. Band, dancing, meal, few portraits if wanted and few candid / posed social group shots....

Better still, get something you can use of camera for a good play.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-geS1_5nDhw&ab_channel=EricFloberg

Ha ha it's not a pro gig so I will want to learn that some day but that's at least 6 months down the line I'll probs get Godox for Fuji eventually and the 16-55 brick if I do get the guts to start doing freelance stuff for pay

This is just a mate's b'day it might even be fine no flash with the 18-55 and ISO6400 and 1/125 at f2.8-4 and 1/60 for posed shots

If it's dark enough at some points to need to use flash I really want a set it and forget it method of using it, very 'clip on and go' so to speak

FWIW if you weren't sure this flash is the equivalent of a dslr built in pop up flash with guide of 8 meters max, so just a sort of fill light

ta

LDJS Photography wrote:

Paulmorgan wrote:

LDJS Photography wrote:

I've been playing around with it and as far as I can tell it seems to know to work pretty well if you set 1/250 - the hss speed on the X-T2 - auto ISO and whatever F number you need

I tried using it in manual and non auto ISO etc but it seemed of little value or turned out actually worse than the above....

It seems it's designed best for just simple use - 'set and forget' - as in the 1st paragraph?

Doing a friend's 50th in a church hall and sold all my fast primes so....

HSS and auto ISO ?

Yeah with TTL auto mode

TTL is pretty effective in manual mode as well.

Yeah on youtube as more say don't use it (auto ISO) as say do use it. Basicaly they say what you said.

But It seems to work for me with this particular flash.

I think your advice is probs the norm for other brands (I really have no idea did some reading and some say auto ISO will make it too bright, but with this Fuji set up it doesn't in fact it makes it less bright than manual VS TTL) but I get the feeling this fuji clip on flash might be configured for basic bozos like me to point and shoot?

Like the X100 built in flash seems to work perfect in auto for fill?

I don't even really know what HHS means lol, I guess it it the highest speed the flash will synch with the shutter? I don't know what that actually means in reality though? I'm guesing above that they will be out of alignment?

Think you will be better off using a fixed ISO and slower shutter speed (flash is pretty good at freezing movement)

Even with a slow shutter speed? I thought it was s/speed that determines how movement is captured well at least without flash it is. You're saying with flash it makes somehow the s/speed faster?

Not the shutter speed, a flash firing at full pop might have a flash duration of 1/400s, the same flash at 1/64 power might have a flash duration of 1/20,000s, kinda handy for freezing motion along with a slow shutter speed for adding more ambient light to the background.

Some use multiple flashes on camera so they can dial the power down and get a faster flash duration, Dougie Wallace makes good of doing this for his SP.

A bit heavy for a friends party

I use this same flash set up on Fuji as well.

I'm not that much up on flash TBH I used to be but that was 6 years ago and I forgot it all, had a Nikon with a big SB600 or some kind of thing, diffuser, swivel, bounce etc, learned it and now forgot it all ah ah

unless you want to carry a pocket full of camera batteries.

I have three so should be ok and will be able to charge spent ones there. I'm only going to do a few bits. Band, dancing, meal, few portraits if wanted and few candid / posed social group shots....

Better still, get something you can use of camera for a good play.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-geS1_5nDhw&ab_channel=EricFloberg

Ha ha it's not a pro gig so I will want to learn that some day but that's at least 6 months down the line I'll probs get Godox for Fuji eventually and the 16-55 brick if I do get the guts to start doing freelance stuff for pay

This is just a mate's b'day it might even be fine no flash with the 18-55 and ISO6400 and 1/125 at f2.8-4 and 1/60 for posed shots

If it's dark enough at some points to need to use flash I really want a set it and forget it method of using it, very 'clip on and go' so to speak

FWIW if you weren't sure this flash is the equivalent of a dslr built in pop up flash with guide of 8 meters max, so just a sort of fill light

ta

I still don't understand how a slow speed but a strong flash in same shot can freeze motion.

I'm not saying it isn't true but I certainly don't understand it.

If I'm shooting at pitch black night or in blazing midday sun without a flash, 1/60 will not freeze motion.

I don't understand how more light can freeze motion.

Would you mind explaining as I might try it to be able to use a lower ISO if I need to?

Not the shutter speed, a flash firing at full pop might have a flash duration of 1/400s, the same flash at 1/64 power might have a flash duration of 1/20,000s, kinda handy for freezing motion along with a slow shutter speed for adding more ambient light to the background.

SO you're saying I could have the shutter speed dial on 1/60 but the flash would change it to a higher number like overiding it?

IDK Insert funny face, I honestly don't understand, ta

NB - I just did two shots same scene in my dark (ish) room.  One at f2.8 and 1/250 and ISO 800 and one at F2.8 and 1.250 and ISO 6400

Flash set on TTL

Both exposures are the same just one is obviously more noisy.  Oddly the flash fired at 0 ev both times.

IDK what's going on with that lol as surely one should be brighter than the other?

jaberg wrote:

Lighting Portraits and Headshots on Location - YouTube

Oh I have none of that gear. I'm using this

FUJIFILM EF-X8 Flash 16651497 B&H Photo Video (bhphotovideo.com)

On an X-T2

jaberg wrote:

LDJS Photography wrote:

jaberg wrote:

Lighting Portraits and Headshots on Location - YouTube

Oh I have none of that gear. I'm using this

FUJIFILM EF-X8 Flash 16651497 B&H Photo Video (bhphotovideo.com)

On an X-T2

Same principles apply, but you’ll be extremely limited in your ability to bounce light.

More than that I won't be able to bounce it at all

Direct light from a flash is generally harsh and unflattering.

I'll be using it as fill

Either way, the EX-F8 isn’t very powerful.

I know

If there’s any possibility of obtaining or borrowing a more powerful flash unit I’d strongly consider it.

I won't be doing that as previously mentioned

For general information about flash photography I’d start with David Hobby’s Strobist 101 tutorial.

Thanks in my future is the professional photography course at the London School of Photography (if I decide to go more advanced) as I'm more a hands on learner than a book learner when it comes to photography