R7 batteries

We don't have an R7 but we do have R5s.

We use HLX-E6NH from Hahnel. Buy in pairs and get a usb twin charger.

They allow the fast shooting.

We always have a grip attached for what it's worth

I don't know how reasonable to think they would perform at the high speed in an R7 also.

Steven Blackwood wrote:

The long and short of it is, if you want to get the most out of your cameras spec, you will need to use genuine Canon batteries and the more recent ones, also at more than half-charged. This is not to say that the third party batteries won’t work well but that only OEM batteries offer any sort of guarantees.

In this case, OEM batteries don’t give the best results. Granted, they are an old version of the battery but it was quite surprising. While they have the same voltage I can only assume they are less capable under load of supplying adequate current.

Ephemeris wrote:

We don't have an R7 but we do have R5s.

We use HLX-E6NH from Hahnel. Buy in pairs and get a usb twin charger.

They allow the fast shooting.

We always have a grip attached for what it's worth

I don't know how reasonable to think they would perform at the high speed in an R7 also.

Without testing it is impossible to say. Currently I don’t have any Hahnel batteries to test. The NH doesn’t automatically mean they will work as I have seen with the Duracell batteries.

I tend to only use OEM cells, the others were ones I had for testing.

Distinctly Average wrote:

Steven Blackwood wrote:

The long and short of it is, if you want to get the most out of your cameras spec, you will need to use genuine Canon batteries and the more recent ones, also at more than half-charged. This is not to say that the third party batteries won’t work well but that only OEM batteries offer any sort of guarantees.

In this case, OEM batteries don’t give the best results. Granted, they are an old version of the battery but it was quite surprising. While they have the same voltage I can only assume they are less capable under load of supplying adequate current.

Maybe a detection that it's not the newer style battery. I'm not sure how they know what the battery is but it will be useful for them to know so that the charging profile is correctly set.

In power tool batteries we do a few things, one is change a resistance that the tool can measure and another is serial data from a chip talking to the tool or charger.

Ephemeris wrote:

Distinctly Average wrote:

Steven Blackwood wrote:

The long and short of it is, if you want to get the most out of your cameras spec, you will need to use genuine Canon batteries and the more recent ones, also at more than half-charged. This is not to say that the third party batteries won’t work well but that only OEM batteries offer any sort of guarantees.

In this case, OEM batteries don’t give the best results. Granted, they are an old version of the battery but it was quite surprising. While they have the same voltage I can only assume they are less capable under load of supplying adequate current.

Maybe a detection that it's not the newer style battery. I'm not sure how they know what the battery is but it will be useful for them to know so that the charging profile is correctly set.

In power tool batteries we do a few things, one is change a resistance that the tool can measure and another is serial data from a chip talking to the tool or charger.

There is some serial data. My guess is that there are a couple of things going on. In the case of the Canon battery, they know the capabilities and decided it was not up to par. Maybe for thermal reasons, maybe the current capabilities of the battery. So a hard coded limit is given to those. With the third party cells, some do have the requisite temp connection and the data connection. Without checking my guess is these batteries supply either spoofed data, or the right data so the camera knows how to deal with them. This can be good, and can be bad. In the past I have seen batteries that spoof their data but are in truth unable to do what it says on the tin. There are some good third party batteries though.

Some of the other third party brands may not be supplying the right data, or might even be presenting as the original LP-E6 so end up limited for that. A couple of the third party specials lack the additional contacts, or have them for show only. So again, the camera limits what they can do.

I might dig out the scope tomorrow and investigate further. That depends on the weather as I have been cooped up for far too long and there is a local Smew that needs photographing.

MarshallG wrote:

Distinctly Average wrote:

Today I was out shooting in EFCS. It was my first time out in a while as I have been a whinging old git having had minor surgery so unable to walk. Daytime TV was driving me insane.

Out I went grabbing a battery from my pile. When I got to a spot where I could use the car as a hid I began shooting. I was in EFCS mode but for some reason I was only getting 8fps even in H+ mode. So I switched to ES and all was good.

When I got home I realised I had picked up an older but genuine LP-E6 battery (which shows three full blobs in my 7D2 for charging performance). It seems that with this battery, fps is limited in mechanical and EFCS shutter modes to 8fps. I began testing with my pile of both Canon and third party batteries. Watson and Neewer LP-E6N batteries were limited to 8fps but the NH versions worked fine. The Duracell NH battery was limited to 8fps. My Canon E6N batteries work fine at 15fps.

I’ve had a look in the manual but cannot find reference to this, but I must admit I didn’t look too deeply. I would be interested to hear what others are getting with your third party batteries.

I thought the H+ indicator in the viewfinder is how you know you can get maximum frame rate. Did you verify this by checking the time stamps?

Yes, but you don’t need to as the difference is very obvious. 8fos vs 15fps is quite a jump.

Still cannot find reference to this in the manual but I have not looked too deeply