I'm guessing a laser engraver...
ProfHankD wrote:
Hangbelly wrote:
Recently I came across a diy lens project that uses a disposable camera lens. So, I tried to make it my self. When I tried it out on my Canon Rebel, the photos were badly out of focus. Checking around, I discovered that this lens will only work on mirrorless cameras. So I guess I'll hold onto it until I move on to a mirrorless system


To be honest, I'm not impressed with your project in terms of your goal and your surprise about the rear focus distance, but how did you do the labeling on this?
Wild guess, a laser engraver. Either direct engraving or cutting a stencil and spray painting.
You can get a Neje or Ortur for under $200. Once it's engraved, wipe some acrylic paint across it, then use an eraser on the overspill after it dries.
Added bonus: even the cheap ones have enough cutting capability to make that hole.
A friend has a slightly larger engraver: people are constantly begging her to engrave stuff.
But whatever Hangbelly uses isn't as important to the conversation as what would best match your needs, and I have some ideas...
I'm assuming you started with a standard body cap, but your labeling looks a lot neater than I would have expected from stickers or any other obvious DIY method. I'm usually 3D printing my lens adapters, and 3D printed labels can't really be too tiny using a 0.4mm nozzle (the standard for most 3D printers).
What 3D printer have you got? Many 3D filament printers (Crealty and SnapMaker come immediately to mind) have laser heads you can either plug in in place of your hot end, or add on to the hot end.
You can also do that level of work with a CNC router/mill like a common 3018 ($250) or 3020-PRO ($500). Those are open-source designs and maybe six companies make them, with Genmitsu probably being the most well known.
Oh, and several parties makes laser engraver/cutter modules for the 3018 and 3020 machines in various power levels, beam widths, and focus lengths. (some are collimated well enough to cut 6mm thick wood or plastic on a single pass).
The 3020 pro is also about as cheap as you can get into soft metal working, including aluminum and brass. I've seen people make entire adapters on a 3020-PRO, including male and female lens mounts and internally or externally threaded spigots and tenons.
Be prepared to spend an extra maybe $100 for better bits than what come with the 3020 kit, and another $100 for a small water-solvable oil pump and sprayer. Having to spritz the work with WD-40 gets real old, real fast, and WSO is much less flammable and much easier to clean up.
If I were going to go into the CNC camera adapter business, I'd spend more in the $2K range, but for occasional use, the 3020-PRO is fine.
Have fun, wear eye protection around lasers, don't try to mill tempered glass, don't handle injured bats because you can get diseases in the rabies family from bites and scratches, treat your bunnies well, and stay hydrated.
J
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The term "mirrorless" is totally obsolete. It's time we call out EVIL for what it is. (Or, if you can't handle "Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens" then Frenchify it and call it "LIVE" for "Lens Interchangeable, Viewfinder Electronic" or "Viseur électronique").
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