TommyNeutron wrote:
Thanks to all who have replied and welcomed me to the forum!
Yes, I am a multi-system shooter, and one who likes the underdogs. The K-1 is still an amazing camera, now 7 years from when I bought it new. But, it is an anchor/tank and along with the lenses are not suitable for me anymore for long walks. The K-1 will never leave my ownership though. I have the beautiful prime limited trinity and just love that camera. But it is DSLR, heavy and the lenses are big.
I also have the Fuji, because it is great as a family camera. It just takes great pictures, effortlessly. The leaf shutter, built in ND, good ISO performance and a flash that always knows how much light to add make the camera what it is.
Now enter the new kid (for me), the DP2M. I took a chance on a for sale ad, and am really glad I did. Something new for me, even though you all have been making great images with them for years. AND, I have a used E-M1 mkIII on the way. It, along with the DP2M, will be my travel / hobby cameras. When I am making images for me, and not for family.
DP2M, F5.6, 13s, ISO100
DP2M F7.1, 1/800, ISO200. Pushed pretty hard to recover the detail in the mountain.
If the dynamic range is bigger than the camera can handle expose for either the highlights or shadows (depending on which is more important to the scene), pick one, you can't have both, and don't try and recover the shadows in SPP, you'll get green/purple mottling, guaranteed. Convert to tiff and export to another processor (I use DXOmark, which works well) and you should be able to raise the shadows without mottling from there. You can see the mottling in your second shot in the hills, you will always get that pushing the shadows in SPP. I recommend leaving the sharpening in SPP to 0, you can always use unsharp mask elsewhere if you want to push the sharpness a bit more. SPP is reasonable but it's pretty unsophisticated, to put it mildly, more like a using a sledgehammer when you're trying to hang a picture.