negative EC

I read an article last night where the guy said you should always dial in 1/3 to 2/3  stops of negative exposure compensation. He said it brings put the colors more.

I was wondering how you guys felt about that.

Steve Thomas

Hi stevet1,

When I first came onto these forums and posted on 'Show Your Snaps' I regularly walked the canals around where I lived, the Victorian dark brickwork of the bridges and infrastucture etc. would cause the camera to brighten up the pictures to compensate. For that reason I used to set my AV to negative 1/3 or 2/3 in many instances.

You can always check your rear viewer combined with the histogram to see the effect you're getting in real time.

stevet1 wrote:

I read an article last night where the guy said you should always dial in 1/3 to 2/3 stops of negative exposure compensation. He said it brings put the colors more.

I was wondering how you guys felt about that.

Steve Thomas

Steve,

It's not something I do, but the idea makes sense to me.

There is a technique for RAW shooters, that you may have heard of, called exposing-to the-right. Basically the shooter over-exposes the photo (shot in RAW, without clipping any highlights) then darkens the photo in post-processing, which gives the best detail. The books I have that describe this technique say that the photo will look washed out, lacking colour, before the photo is darkened in post - which, inversely matches the article you read.

I know Dig uses it a lot in his photographs, and I was hoping he might weigh in.

I have always found his photographs to be most excellent.

Steve Thomas

AshleyMC wrote:

That “trick” is a tool in my photographic toolbox.

When used thoughtfully, it makes the image subtly and calmly dramatic — “the mood.”

Also, when Multi (Averaging) metering mode is being used, it makes the dark background darker and prevents the subject from looking too bright.

I use it when an artistic expression calls for it. For weddings, I use it for all scenes.

Ashley,

I know that the author of the article I was reading said that you can use it as a possible alternative to spot metering in a strongly backlit scene.

Which sort of goes along with what Mocha was saying about bringing out the dark wood in his Victorian bridges.

Steve Thomas

Dunlin wrote:

stevet1 wrote:

I read an article last night where the guy said you should always dial in 1/3 to 2/3 stops of negative exposure compensation. He said it brings put the colors more.

I was wondering how you guys felt about that.

Steve Thomas

Steve,

It's not something I do, but the idea makes sense to me.

There is a technique for RAW shooters, that you may have heard of, called exposing-to the-right. Basically the shooter over-exposes the photo (shot in RAW, without clipping any highlights) then darkens the photo in post-processing, which gives the best detail. The books I have that describe this technique say that the photo will look washed out, lacking colour, before the photo is darkened in post - which, inversely matches the article you read.

By any chance , ETTR means +EV , the negative exp compensation means -EV , doesn’t it ?

guinness2 wrote:

Dunlin wrote:

stevet1 wrote:

I read an article last night where the guy said you should always dial in 1/3 to 2/3 stops of negative exposure compensation. He said it brings put the colors more.

I was wondering how you guys felt about that.

Steve Thomas

Steve,

It's not something I do, but the idea makes sense to me.

There is a technique for RAW shooters, that you may have heard of, called exposing-to the-right. Basically the shooter over-exposes the photo (shot in RAW, without clipping any highlights) then darkens the photo in post-processing, which gives the best detail. The books I have that describe this technique say that the photo will look washed out, lacking colour, before the photo is darkened in post - which, inversely matches the article you read.

By any chance , ETTR means +EV , the negative exp compensation means -EV , doesn’t it ?

That is correct.

Exposure To The Right means the histogram is being shifted To The Right.

I guess thistechnique could be called ETTL.

stevet1 wrote:

I read an article last night where the guy said you should always dial in 1/3 to 2/3 stops of negative exposure compensation. He said it brings put the colors more.

I was wondering how you guys felt about that.

Steve Thomas

I keep the EV set at minus 2/3 pretty well constantly. In dark shade or when it is night, dusk, or dawn I will change it to plus 1/3 up to plus 1 or more. It is easy in post to adjust the exposure up, or down, but blown highlights are there forever.

Don

Ontarian wrote:

stevet1 wrote:

I read an article last night where the guy said you should always dial in 1/3 to 2/3 stops of negative exposure compensation. He said it brings put the colors more.

I was wondering how you guys felt about that.

Steve Thomas

I keep the EV set at minus 2/3 pretty well constantly. In dark shade or when it is night, dusk, or dawn I will change it to plus 1/3 up to plus 1 or more. It is easy in post to adjust the exposure up, or down, but blown highlights are there forever.

Don

Did you consider exposure bracketing ? Any cons ?

I've only tinkered with it.  Don