Focusing in macro photography

I've only just started with macro photography, and what's bothering me is the following.

When I try to focus manually, especially when I'm close to the ground, I look to the LCD screen because looking through the viewfinder is sometimes difficult, especially because I wear glasses.

Even then, and using a macro rail, I sometimes struggle to get the subject in its sharpest focus. It sometimes seems as if there is a margin. How can I focus in the best way? I'd love to hear tips. I read about focus peaking. To what extent is this a good tool and what are your experiences?

ken_in_nh wrote:

The obvious answer is to use focus peaking if your camera supports it. If not, I'd just bracket. There's no easy answer to this issue, unfortunately, because cameras, field conditions and people vary so widely.

I bought my current camera, a Canon M6ii, partly because it offers features that make macro in the field much easier, such as a flip up rear screen, focus peaking, and automated focus bracketing.

Thanks. Good to know. I'm going to try it all out. I'm going to try it all out. Fortunately, there is still a lot to learn.

richj20 wrote:

Gilbert1 wrote:

I've only just started with macro photography, and what's bothering me is the following.

When I try to focus manually, especially when I'm close to the ground, I look to the LCD screen because looking through the viewfinder is sometimes difficult, especially because I wear glasses.

Consider a right angle attachable viewfinder.

- Richard

Thanks. I didn't know such a thing existed. What a nice solution!

BBbuilder467 wrote:

Gilbert1 wrote:

I've only just started with macro photography, and what's bothering me is the following.

When I try to focus manually, especially when I'm close to the ground, I look to the LCD screen because looking through the viewfinder is sometimes difficult, especially because I wear glasses.

Even then, and using a macro rail, I sometimes struggle to get the subject in its sharpest focus. It sometimes seems as if there is a margin. How can I focus in the best way? I'd love to hear tips. I read about focus peaking. To what extent is this a good tool and what are your experiences?

What procedure do you use?

The most common method is manually focus for the image size, then move the camera itself for precise focus. I don't manual focus like I would for a portrait. Moving a millimeter or two can bring your subject in and out of focus.

You can only see the narrow dof before the auto stop down on capture.

Is that what you're struggling with?

Thank. I hope I'm telling you right, and maybe I'm doing something wrong, but now if I want to take a macro photo, for example 1:1, then I position the camera on the tripod so that I feel that the subject is sharp and where I look at the fold-out screen. When I look at it, and I move the macro rail, it seems that a millimeter more or less does not matter. The difference may be there, but I can't see it with the naked eye. Well at several millimeters, then I can clearly see the difference between sharp and out of focus. So I would like to know exactly when I have set it correctly, but that may be difficult to determine with the naked eye.

What exactly do you mean by 'auto stop down on capture'?

BBbuilder467 wrote:

The lens stops down automatically. When you focus at f/2.8, you don't see the dof of f/11 until you've taken the photo.

Very clear, thank you!

But then it remains that, at least in the beginning, you always have to focus with your naked eye and that is human work.

Gilbert1 wrote:

I've only just started with macro photography, and what's bothering me is the following.

When I try to focus manually, especially when I'm close to the ground, I look to the LCD screen because looking through the viewfinder is sometimes difficult, especially because I wear glasses.

Even then, and using a macro rail, I sometimes struggle to get the subject in its sharpest focus. It sometimes seems as if there is a margin. How can I focus in the best way? I'd love to hear tips. I read about focus peaking. To what extent is this a good tool and what are your experiences?

The Z6 does have focus peaking, but it doesn't seem to work at high image magnification.  Due to the limited number of function buttons, I wouldn't bother assigning Focus Peaking to one of them.

Instead, get close to where I need to be using small point AF, and then switch to manual focus (MF).  I have AF settings assigned to Fn1, so it's quick and easy to switch.

I then use the magnify function buttons (+ and -) to magnify live view, and adjust focus.  It's easy to tell when focus is achieved.

You can easily attach the Nikon DR-6 right angle adapter to the viewfinder.  I wear glasses but I can adjust the adapter so I don't need them to look through it.  You can switch it between 1x and 2x viewing; I usually leave it at 1x and do live view magnification as needed.  Even with glasses, however, you can see enough of the image to adjust focus.

Alternatively, you can use the LCD.  I use a Hoodman Loupe to view the LCD; I just hold it up to the screen to view it without intrusion of daylight.  Again, it is adjustable and I can use it without glasses, but it has a large eyecup and accomodates glasses as well.

Other options are to use an LCD display attached via HDMI, or use a smartphone connected to control the camera.  These are useful options if the camera is in a position that you just can't reach (happens often enough for me that I always have my smartphone with me for just that use).  Good to get a smartphone holder that mounts on the hot shoe and tilts up.

john isaacs wrote:

Gilbert1 wrote:

I've only just started with macro photography, and what's bothering me is the following.

When I try to focus manually, especially when I'm close to the ground, I look to the LCD screen because looking through the viewfinder is sometimes difficult, especially because I wear glasses.

Even then, and using a macro rail, I sometimes struggle to get the subject in its sharpest focus. It sometimes seems as if there is a margin. How can I focus in the best way? I'd love to hear tips. I read about focus peaking. To what extent is this a good tool and what are your experiences?

The Z6 does have focus peaking, but it doesn't seem to work at high image magnification. Due to the limited number of function buttons, I wouldn't bother assigning Focus Peaking to one of them.

Instead, get close to where I need to be using small point AF, and then switch to manual focus (MF). I have AF settings assigned to Fn1, so it's quick and easy to switch.

I then use the magnify function buttons (+ and -) to magnify live view, and adjust focus. It's easy to tell when focus is achieved.

You can easily attach the Nikon DR-6 right angle adapter to the viewfinder. I wear glasses but I can adjust the adapter so I don't need them to look through it. You can switch it between 1x and 2x viewing; I usually leave it at 1x and do live view magnification as needed. Even with glasses, however, you can see enough of the image to adjust focus.

Alternatively, you can use the LCD. I use a Hoodman Loupe to view the LCD; I just hold it up to the screen to view it without intrusion of daylight. Again, it is adjustable and I can use it without glasses, but it has a large eyecup and accomodates glasses as well.

Other options are to use an LCD display attached via HDMI, or use a smartphone connected to control the camera. These are useful options if the camera is in a position that you just can't reach (happens often enough for me that I always have my smartphone with me for just that use). Good to get a smartphone holder that mounts on the hot shoe and tilts up.

Thanks John, you helped me a lot!

I have a few more questions on this:

1) About focus peaking: I already was wondering why it didn't work when I tried to turn it on. But what do you mean by 'high image magnification'?

2) What a good advice, so first (small point) AF and then switching to MF. But I do notice that in macro photography he is often 'hunting' to find the right focus. But maybe you have a solution for this?

3) Which AF settings exactly have you assigned to Fn1?

4) Hoodman DR-6: Seems me very useful, but I see that it is not a cheap solution. What do you mean by 'but I can adjust the adapter so I don't need them to look through it'? Do you use it yourself often? I do use the Hoodman Hoodeye for the viewfinder, very handy!

Gilbert1 wrote:

john isaacs wrote:

Gilbert1 wrote:

I've only just started with macro photography, and what's bothering me is the following.

When I try to focus manually, especially when I'm close to the ground, I look to the LCD screen because looking through the viewfinder is sometimes difficult, especially because I wear glasses.

Even then, and using a macro rail, I sometimes struggle to get the subject in its sharpest focus. It sometimes seems as if there is a margin. How can I focus in the best way? I'd love to hear tips. I read about focus peaking. To what extent is this a good tool and what are your experiences?

The Z6 does have focus peaking, but it doesn't seem to work at high image magnification. Due to the limited number of function buttons, I wouldn't bother assigning Focus Peaking to one of them.

Instead, get close to where I need to be using small point AF, and then switch to manual focus (MF). I have AF settings assigned to Fn1, so it's quick and easy to switch.

I then use the magnify function buttons (+ and -) to magnify live view, and adjust focus. It's easy to tell when focus is achieved.

You can easily attach the Nikon DR-6 right angle adapter to the viewfinder. I wear glasses but I can adjust the adapter so I don't need them to look through it. You can switch it between 1x and 2x viewing; I usually leave it at 1x and do live view magnification as needed. Even with glasses, however, you can see enough of the image to adjust focus.

Alternatively, you can use the LCD. I use a Hoodman Loupe to view the LCD; I just hold it up to the screen to view it without intrusion of daylight. Again, it is adjustable and I can use it without glasses, but it has a large eyecup and accomodates glasses as well.

Other options are to use an LCD display attached via HDMI, or use a smartphone connected to control the camera. These are useful options if the camera is in a position that you just can't reach (happens often enough for me that I always have my smartphone with me for just that use). Good to get a smartphone holder that mounts on the hot shoe and tilts up.

Thanks John, you helped me a lot!

I have a few more questions on this:

1) About focus peaking: I already was wondering why it didn't work when I tried to turn it on. But what do you mean by 'high image magnification'?

On the back of the camera, there are two buttons with a magnifying glass and + or - symbol; the one with the + magnifies (zooms) the image each time you press it, and the one with the - takes it back (long holding it takes it back to normal).  High image magnification is where the image is magnified (zoomed) with several presses of the magnify (zoom) button.

The zoom factors are 3x, 6x, and 12x.  Focus peaking works at 3x, but I don't see any focus peaking beyond that.

2) What a good advice, so first (small point) AF and then switching to MF. But I do notice that in macro photography he is often 'hunting' to find the right focus. But maybe you have a solution for this?

Hunting often means that the lens is too close or there isn't enough light, or the subject isn't good for AF.  Use a larger AF area.

3) Which AF settings exactly have you assigned to Fn1?

There are two settings you want to use.  First, set f6 "Release Button to use Dial" to ON.  This way, you don't have to hold the button down while rotating a control dial; press once to activate the function, again to deactivate it.  I find that very useful for functions that use the rear control dial.  Then, assign AF/[+] "Focus mode/AF-Area mode" to Fn1 in fn2 "Custom Controls".  When pressed, the front control dial will select AF-Area mode, and the rear control dial will select AF mode.

4) Hoodman DR-6: Seems me very useful, but I see that it is not a cheap solution. What do you mean by 'but I can adjust the adapter so I don't need them to look through it'? Do you use it yourself often? I do use the Hoodman Hoodeye for the viewfinder, very handy!

I mean I don't need my glasses because both the Hoodman Loupe and the DR-6 have focus adjustments.  I prefer the DR-6 on the Nikons because I don't have to hold it in place.  I use the Hoodman Compact HoodLoupe on cameras with flip out LCDs because I have a strap that I use to attach it to the LCD, which lets me vary the angle.

There are cheaper alternatives to either.  You can get a compatible right angle viewfinder that works just as well as the Nikon.  There are also a lot of loupes as well; avoid the ones that aren't black, as they will color everything in strong light.

john isaacs wrote:

Gilbert1 wrote:

john isaacs wrote:

Gilbert1 wrote:

1) About focus peaking: I already was wondering why it didn't work when I tried to turn it on. But what do you mean by 'high image magnification'?

On the back of the camera, there are two buttons with a magnifying glass and + or - symbol; the one with the + magnifies (zooms) the image each time you press it, and the one with the - takes it back (long holding it takes it back to normal). High image magnification is where the image is magnified (zoomed) with several presses of the magnify (zoom) button.

The zoom factors are 3x, 6x, and 12x. Focus peaking works at 3x, but I don't see any focus peaking beyond that.

2) What a good advice, so first (small point) AF and then switching to MF. But I do notice that in macro photography he is often 'hunting' to find the right focus. But maybe you have a solution for this?

Hunting often means that the lens is too close or there isn't enough light, or the subject isn't good for AF. Use a larger AF area.

3) Which AF settings exactly have you assigned to Fn1?

There are two settings you want to use. First, set f6 "Release Button to use Dial" to ON. This way, you don't have to hold the button down while rotating a control dial; press once to activate the function, again to deactivate it. I find that very useful for functions that use the rear control dial. Then, assign AF/[+] "Focus mode/AF-Area mode" to Fn1 in fn2 "Custom Controls". When pressed, the front control dial will select AF-Area mode, and the rear control dial will select AF mode.

4) Hoodman DR-6: Seems me very useful, but I see that it is not a cheap solution. What do you mean by 'but I can adjust the adapter so I don't need them to look through it'? Do you use it yourself often? I do use the Hoodman Hoodeye for the viewfinder, very handy!

I mean I don't need my glasses because both the Hoodman Loupe and the DR-6 have focus adjustments. I prefer the DR-6 on the Nikons because I don't have to hold it in place. I use the Hoodman Compact HoodLoupe on cameras with flip out LCDs because I have a strap that I use to attach it to the LCD, which lets me vary the angle.

There are cheaper alternatives to either. You can get a compatible right angle viewfinder that works just as well as the Nikon. There are also a lot of loupes as well; avoid the ones that aren't black, as they will color everything in strong light.

Thanks again John.

It took me a while to figure out (also because of the language) how to assign it to the Fn2 button, but I finally got it done. It does indeed work well and let's take a look in practice.

Even though I am using a Sony camera, it is good to have advice that can help me.  Thanks everyone that has contributed to the forum.