Your thoughts on the M6ii + 28mm f3.5 macro?

m100 wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

m100 wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

Photato wrote:

Would you mind sharing what kind of translucent plastic is that ?
It is a DIY or you bought it ?

Looong story here.

First, you need a nice fairly stiff plastic that when held up to the light you can see your fingers through, but not see your fingerprints. Getting the right amount of diffusion is the tricky part (plus you want a nice white plastic that doesn't impart any tint).

I comb the box stores constantly, looking for something with just the right properties. The security staff must think I'm crazy holding all manner of stuff up in the air whenever I find a likely prospect, be it a storage box or a toilet brush holder!

The original plastic sheeting I found was the perfect material. It was the cover of a threee-ring binder that I found at a Staples store years ago (it's since been discontinued). I bought a couple of them at the time, but should have bought a bunch more! Now I'm peering through everything from milk jugs to office supplies looking for the ideal plastic. I think you'll have to do the same!

BTW I found a pic of the diffuser mounted on my 28 Macro...

Crude but effective. I cut the hole just a bit smaller, so that the fit is snug and the diffuser stays put. The plastics I've found are non-marring.

Just an FYI for folks. Diffusion increases with size and (nearer) distance, plus you want to further eliminate hot spots as much as possible (sometimes I add a smaller central layer, or space two sheets a bit apart). Flash power becomes a factor though, as diffusion increases.

Creating a mini softbox out of Foamcore increases light transmission, and can attach right to your flash's head (I use velcro). It's not as portable as a simple sheet though.

R2

Broken junk flat screen TVs have a big piece the size of the screen in them that was used to diffuse the light from the LEDs.

Whoa, good tip. Now I just have to wait for my 4K LG OLED to die!

R2

Junk TVs get dumped on the roads all around me.

Well I guess that's good and bad.

Worth it though as these simple diffusers work very well...

Simple diffuser on the 28 Macro (M6ii).

R2

R2D2 wrote:

Photato wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

Looong story here.

First, you need a nice fairly stiff plastic that when held up to the light you can see your fingers through, but not see your fingerprints. Getting the right amount of diffusion is the tricky part (plus you want a nice white plastic that doesn't impart any tint).

I comb the box stores constantly, looking for something with just the right properties. The security staff must think I'm crazy holding all manner of stuff up in the air whenever I find a likely prospect, be it a storage box or a toilet brush holder!

The original plastic sheeting I found was the perfect material. It was the cover of a threee-ring binder that I found at a Staples store years ago (it's since been discontinued). I bought a couple of them at the time, but should have bought a bunch more! Now I'm peering through everything from milk jugs to office supplies looking for the ideal plastic. I think you'll have to do the same!

BTW I found a pic of the diffuser mounted on my 28 Macro...

Crude but effective. I cut the hole just a bit smaller, so that the fit is snug and the diffuser stays put. The plastics I've found are non-marring.

Just an FYI for folks. Diffusion increases with size and (nearer) distance, plus you want to further eliminate hot spots as much as possible (sometimes I add a smaller central layer, or space two sheets a bit apart). Flash power becomes a factor though, as diffusion increases.

Creating a mini softbox out of Foamcore increases light transmission, and can attach right to your flash's head (I use velcro). It's not as portable as a simple sheet though.

R2

Good to know, I underestimated the part of finding the material with the right properties, not only in diffusion quality but also weight and rigidity.
I found this one that sells for $12 and can be folded into a small bag, similar to car's windshield shade. I probably go this route.
Thanks for sharing.

Yes. Exactly the same principle!

I have a couple of different Rogue FlashBenders too. Nice that you can shape them. You do have to be careful not to bounce any light back onto the surface of the (lens') objective though, in order to maintain as much contrast and color as possible.

R2

But you use this only for the portability factor ?
I ask because I have a 96 LED panel the size of the M6ii body.

R2D2 wrote:

Well I guess that's good and bad.

It is.  That is where my dogs have all come from since the 90s.

Worth it though as these simple diffusers work very well...

Simple diffuser on the 28 Macro (M6ii).

R2

Nice shot.

Nice pic / flower arrangement

Jim

Sittatunga wrote:

jim mij wrote:

Foskito wrote:

Hello guys,

I have an RP with the kit 24-105mm and the 35mm f1.8 IS. I mainly use it to take hundreds of product shots of my wife's online jewelry store. The close focus capabilities of the 35mm allow me to produce great IQ images.

I have been tempted by the M system for years, (never pulled the trigger though) but now that the refurbs are at an incredibly low price I am super interested in getting an M6ii and the 28mm f3.5 macro, I guess the extra 6mp might be handy?

Thanks in advance!

The m6ii provides great detail for macro, although i use the ef-s 60mm (with an adaptor) rather than the native m28 lens. I have samples in this and the macro forum if you want to browse

The 60mm might also work on your RP (with an adaptor)?

When i asked in this forum about the 28 folks advised me to stay with the 60, but our needs might differ

regards

Jim

The 60mm is an EF-S lens, so it will give a maximum 10Mpx cropped image with the RP. I can't see the point in adapting it if you have both cameras when you get 32Mpx from the M6 II.

I hadn’t actually thought about it, but yet another reason to stick with the m6ii

It would make a nice portrait lens too on crop; the 28mm is a nice standard lens, with a focal length about the same as the diagonal of the M6 II sensor. The built-in lighting of the 28mm (and the EF-S 35mm macro) is quite versatile; the choice of left side, right side or both sides lit at two intensities. That's not quite what you can achieve with tabletop lighting and a bit of working room, but good for something you can put in a jeans pocket.

R2D2 wrote:

You can’t use the Focus Bracketing Mode with flash though. However you can shoot 14 fps with an external flash and “cut slices” right through your subject using the “Lean Technique” for stacking later (note: you need to “tape over” the hotshoe’s communication contacts in order to achieve 14 fps with the flash).

R2

ps. Info here provided for others (I know you know this stuff already ).

Nope I’m clueless as usual R2 but I’m curious, stacking with flash would be really useful.

I did see you mention this with the Laowa 65mm, but no details there either

At the moment I’m able to take a “few” shots in manual by leaning in / moving in between shots, and then stack them (or sometimes manually clone the best bits), but getting the camera to do a burst with flash should give better results

Care to provide an idiot guide ?

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

You can’t use the Focus Bracketing Mode with flash though. However you can shoot 14 fps with an external flash and “cut slices” right through your subject using the “Lean Technique” for stacking later (note: you need to “tape over” the hotshoe’s communication contacts in order to achieve 14 fps with the flash).

R2

ps. Info here provided for others (I know you know this stuff already ).

Nope I’m clueless as usual R2 but I’m curious, stacking with flash would be really useful.

I did see you mention this with the Laowa 65mm, but no details there either

Here's a post in the Tips & Tricks guide with some info...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63249386

Normally Canon's new flash communication protocols slow down flash operation, but taping over the communication pins eliminates the slowdown (the camera will now shoot flash bursts at the max 14 fps in mShutter). You do have to shoot in manual flash power mode though (at a reduced power). Easy to do for macros!

At the moment I’m able to take a “few” shots in manual by leaning in / moving in between shots, and then stack them (or sometimes manually clone the best bits), but getting the camera to do a burst with flash should give better results

Yes, that's the basic technique. Now with these fast bursts at your disposal, you attain focus on the part of the object that's closest to you (or even the eye), and then you shoot a burst while you keep leaning in toward the object (in a single nice smooth motion). Time it right and you'll get neat in-focus slices right through your subject.

Care to provide an idiot guide ?

Bah, you'll be a pro at this in no time! 

R2

R2D2 wrote:

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

You can’t use the Focus Bracketing Mode with flash though. However you can shoot 14 fps with an external flash and “cut slices” right through your subject using the “Lean Technique” for stacking later (note: you need to “tape over” the hotshoe’s communication contacts in order to achieve 14 fps with the flash).

R2

ps. Info here provided for others (I know you know this stuff already ).

Nope I’m clueless as usual R2 but I’m curious, stacking with flash would be really useful.

I did see you mention this with the Laowa 65mm, but no details there either

Here's a post in the Tips & Tricks guide with some info...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63249386

Normally Canon's new flash communication protocols slow down flash operation, but taping over the communication pins eliminates the slowdown (the camera will now shoot flash bursts at the max 14 fps in mShutter). You do have to shoot in manual flash power mode though (at a reduced power). Easy to do for macros!

At the moment I’m able to take a “few” shots in manual by leaning in / moving in between shots, and then stack them (or sometimes manually clone the best bits), but getting the camera to do a burst with flash should give better results

Yes, that's the basic technique. Now with these fast bursts at your disposal, you attain focus on the part of the object that's closest to you (or even the eye), and then you shoot a burst while you keep leaning in toward the object (in a single nice smooth motion). Time it right and you'll get neat in-focus slices right through your subject.

Care to provide an idiot guide ?

Bah, you'll be a pro at this in no time!

R2

Am I feeling foolish or what, I never even considered anything other than single shot when using the flash.  Even without the pins taped over the other drive modes give me multiple shots with the flash firing, not at 7 or 14fps but enough to convince me to look for some sellotape and try again. Plus I’ve got a few months to practice before the bugs re-emerge in spring

thanks for the explanations and sharing your wisdom (again)

Jim

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

You can’t use the Focus Bracketing Mode with flash though. However you can shoot 14 fps with an external flash and “cut slices” right through your subject using the “Lean Technique” for stacking later (note: you need to “tape over” the hotshoe’s communication contacts in order to achieve 14 fps with the flash).

R2

ps. Info here provided for others (I know you know this stuff already ).

Nope I’m clueless as usual R2 but I’m curious, stacking with flash would be really useful.

I did see you mention this with the Laowa 65mm, but no details there either

Here's a post in the Tips & Tricks guide with some info...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63249386

Normally Canon's new flash communication protocols slow down flash operation, but taping over the communication pins eliminates the slowdown (the camera will now shoot flash bursts at the max 14 fps in mShutter). You do have to shoot in manual flash power mode though (at a reduced power). Easy to do for macros!

At the moment I’m able to take a “few” shots in manual by leaning in / moving in between shots, and then stack them (or sometimes manually clone the best bits), but getting the camera to do a burst with flash should give better results

Yes, that's the basic technique. Now with these fast bursts at your disposal, you attain focus on the part of the object that's closest to you (or even the eye), and then you shoot a burst while you keep leaning in toward the object (in a single nice smooth motion). Time it right and you'll get neat in-focus slices right through your subject.

Care to provide an idiot guide ?

Bah, you'll be a pro at this in no time!

R2

Am I feeling foolish or what, I never even considered anything other than single shot when using the flash.

When shooting macro, the "spray and pray" approach really does help out a lot, I must admit. Even if you're not planning on stacking, just getting the eye in focus for ONE frame is good.

Even without the pins taped over the other drive modes give me multiple shots with the flash firing, not at 7 or 14fps but enough to convince me to look for some sellotape and try again.

Yup, 14 fps makes a real difference, especially when shooting bugs!

I like to use Packaging Tape, which is pretty tough. Leave some hanging over the back edge of the hotshoe for easy removal.

Plus I’ve got a few months to practice before the bugs re-emerge in spring

Same here. Long winter ahead for us Macro shooters!

Shooting indoors around the house can be fun too though...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64913649

thanks for the explanations and sharing your wisdom (again)

I like the (somewhat expensive) Nissin i40 flash. It's quite compact with a swivel/tilt head, uses 4 AA batteries, is more powerful than say the (less expensive and lighter 2AA) Godox TT350C flash, which gives the Nissin more burst flashes and faster recycling. The Godox is a fine flash too though (I have both). And both flashes have great rear dials for making power level changes a snap.

If you increase the ISO a bit, you can get more (burst) shots from your flash. Process in DxO Photolab.

Have fun!

R2

R2D2 wrote:

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

You can’t use the Focus Bracketing Mode with flash though. However you can shoot 14 fps with an external flash and “cut slices” right through your subject using the “Lean Technique” for stacking later (note: you need to “tape over” the hotshoe’s communication contacts in order to achieve 14 fps with the flash).

R2

ps. Info here provided for others (I know you know this stuff already ).

Nope I’m clueless as usual R2 but I’m curious, stacking with flash would be really useful.

I did see you mention this with the Laowa 65mm, but no details there either

Here's a post in the Tips & Tricks guide with some info...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63249386

Normally Canon's new flash communication protocols slow down flash operation, but taping over the communication pins eliminates the slowdown (the camera will now shoot flash bursts at the max 14 fps in mShutter). You do have to shoot in manual flash power mode though (at a reduced power). Easy to do for macros!

At the moment I’m able to take a “few” shots in manual by leaning in / moving in between shots, and then stack them (or sometimes manually clone the best bits), but getting the camera to do a burst with flash should give better results

Yes, that's the basic technique. Now with these fast bursts at your disposal, you attain focus on the part of the object that's closest to you (or even the eye), and then you shoot a burst while you keep leaning in toward the object (in a single nice smooth motion). Time it right and you'll get neat in-focus slices right through your subject.

Care to provide an idiot guide ?

Bah, you'll be a pro at this in no time!

R2

Am I feeling foolish or what, I never even considered anything other than single shot when using the flash.

When shooting macro, the "spray and pray" approach really does help out a lot, I must admit. Even if you're not planning on stacking, just getting the eye in focus for ONE frame is good.

Even without the pins taped over the other drive modes give me multiple shots with the flash firing, not at 7 or 14fps but enough to convince me to look for some sellotape and try again.

Yup, 14 fps makes a real difference, especially when shooting bugs!

I like to use Packaging Tape, which is pretty tough. Leave some hanging over the back edge of the hotshoe for easy removal.

Plus I’ve got a few months to practice before the bugs re-emerge in spring

Same here. Long winter ahead for us Macro shooters!

Shooting indoors around the house can be fun too though...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64913649

thanks for the explanations and sharing your wisdom (again)

I like the (somewhat expensive) Nissin i40 flash. It's quite compact with a swivel/tilt head, uses 4 AA batteries, is more powerful than say the (less expensive and lighter 2AA) Godox TT350C flash, which gives the Nissin more burst flashes and faster recycling. The Godox is a fine flash too though (I have both). And both flashes have great rear dials for making power level changes a snap.

If you increase the ISO a bit, you can get more (burst) shots from your flash. Process in DxO Photolab.

Have fun!

R2

on 1st Sellotape tests, with little ambient daylight around on this rainy day, using a godox tt350c at 1/16th and iso 320 (as its relatively low noise so not much effort in post)

Low speed continuous gave me 9 flashes in a couple of seconds before a dark frame appears.

High and high speed + gave 4 flashes - very quickly.

at higher power 1/8th Low speed continuous gave me a few flashes, dark, a couple flashes, dark, but perhaps usable enough to stack (or as you say get an important eye in focus)

Depending on the bug and available light I think all these options will help

I'll now have to vary my "lean technique" based on drive speed  

I almost had an i40 (used), but when it arrived it was for m43. However the godox works so much better with eneloops than std duracel batteries

As your also in the off season perhaps you could try your hand doing some tutorials, your techniques probably are portable to other brands too

thanks again

Jim

Foskito wrote:

Hello guys,

I have an RP with the kit 24-105mm and the 35mm f1.8 IS. I mainly use it to take hundreds of product shots of my wife's online jewelry store. The close focus capabilities of the 35mm allow me to produce great IQ images.

I have been tempted by the M system for years, (never pulled the trigger though) but now that the refurbs are at an incredibly low price I am super interested in getting an M6ii and the 28mm f3.5 macro, I guess the extra 6mp might be handy?

Thanks in advance!

26mp vs 32mp might not give you much more. However, the EFM28mm Macro is a great lens, for its price and size. There is simply no native equivalent to the EF and RF mounts in terms of price and size.

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

You can’t use the Focus Bracketing Mode with flash though. However you can shoot 14 fps with an external flash and “cut slices” right through your subject using the “Lean Technique” for stacking later (note: you need to “tape over” the hotshoe’s communication contacts in order to achieve 14 fps with the flash).

R2

ps. Info here provided for others (I know you know this stuff already ).

Nope I’m clueless as usual R2 but I’m curious, stacking with flash would be really useful.

I did see you mention this with the Laowa 65mm, but no details there either

Here's a post in the Tips & Tricks guide with some info...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63249386

Normally Canon's new flash communication protocols slow down flash operation, but taping over the communication pins eliminates the slowdown (the camera will now shoot flash bursts at the max 14 fps in mShutter). You do have to shoot in manual flash power mode though (at a reduced power). Easy to do for macros!

At the moment I’m able to take a “few” shots in manual by leaning in / moving in between shots, and then stack them (or sometimes manually clone the best bits), but getting the camera to do a burst with flash should give better results

Yes, that's the basic technique. Now with these fast bursts at your disposal, you attain focus on the part of the object that's closest to you (or even the eye), and then you shoot a burst while you keep leaning in toward the object (in a single nice smooth motion). Time it right and you'll get neat in-focus slices right through your subject.

Care to provide an idiot guide ?

Bah, you'll be a pro at this in no time!

R2

Am I feeling foolish or what, I never even considered anything other than single shot when using the flash.

When shooting macro, the "spray and pray" approach really does help out a lot, I must admit. Even if you're not planning on stacking, just getting the eye in focus for ONE frame is good.

Even without the pins taped over the other drive modes give me multiple shots with the flash firing, not at 7 or 14fps but enough to convince me to look for some sellotape and try again.

Yup, 14 fps makes a real difference, especially when shooting bugs!

I like to use Packaging Tape, which is pretty tough. Leave some hanging over the back edge of the hotshoe for easy removal.

Plus I’ve got a few months to practice before the bugs re-emerge in spring

Same here. Long winter ahead for us Macro shooters!

Shooting indoors around the house can be fun too though...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64913649

thanks for the explanations and sharing your wisdom (again)

I like the (somewhat expensive) Nissin i40 flash. It's quite compact with a swivel/tilt head, uses 4 AA batteries, is more powerful than say the (less expensive and lighter 2AA) Godox TT350C flash, which gives the Nissin more burst flashes and faster recycling. The Godox is a fine flash too though (I have both). And both flashes have great rear dials for making power level changes a snap.

If you increase the ISO a bit, you can get more (burst) shots from your flash. Process in DxO Photolab.

Have fun!

R2

on 1st Sellotape tests, with little ambient daylight around on this rainy day, using a godox tt350c at 1/16th and iso 320 (as its relatively low noise so not much effort in post)

Low speed continuous gave me 9 flashes in a couple of seconds before a dark frame appears.

High and high speed + gave 4 flashes - very quickly.

at higher power 1/8th Low speed continuous gave me a few flashes, dark, a couple flashes, dark, but perhaps usable enough to stack (or as you say get an important eye in focus)

Depending on the bug and available light I think all these options will help

I'll now have to vary my "lean technique" based on drive speed

I almost had an i40 (used), but when it arrived it was for m43. However the godox works so much better with eneloops than std duracel batteries

As your also in the off season perhaps you could try your hand doing some tutorials, your techniques probably are portable to other brands too

thanks again

Jim

1st example from this approach, 7 frames (@14fps) of a rather active baby spider (cardinal or orb ?), also taken using the raynox250 (which I should tested before I actually tried using it).

Its not the greatest photo or spider but pic 1 had the front legs and pic 7 the rear so the approach has merit, while my technique needs more work

The spider preferred crawling on my hand rather than posing where I wanted it to,  hence single image 2nd pic

jim mij wrote:

jim mij wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

1st example from this approach, 7 frames (@14fps) of a rather active baby spider (cardinal or orb ?), also taken using the raynox250 (which I should tested before I actually tried using it).

Its not the greatest photo or spider but pic 1 had the front legs and pic 7 the rear so the approach has merit, while my technique needs more work

The spider preferred crawling on my hand rather than posing where I wanted it to, hence single image 2nd pic

Very cool!  You better watch out for his big sister though!!  

Experiment on everything.  Have fun!

R2