Experience with Samyang/Rokinon tilt shift on Fuji X

Hi all,

For architecture currently using my 10-24mm on xt2 and correcting skewed lines in post.
Looking at the Samyang T-S 24mm tilt shift. Anyone has experience with it?

Honestly, I do not really understand what the focal length is on the fuji system because it is named 24mm for all the mounts (including FF and M43...) and only marginal info is available for this lens. Obviously, for interior shots I need it to be quite wide.

As much as I love my xt2, I might have to switch to Canon or something for purely architectural gigs due to the lack of tilt-shifts for the x-system. So I really hope this Samyang could prevent me from doing that. I'm not too keen on the Kipong adapter solutions etc; seems fiddly.

Cheers in advance!

It is 24mm on any system.   You'll find it a bit narrow on APS-C sensorts.

No experience with the lens.

The fl is a physical lens parameter. It is independent from the sensor.

You can say that a 24 mm lens on an APS-C body is equivalent to a 36 mm lens on a FF body when it comes to the angle of view.

Laowa has a 20 mm f/4 zero distortion shift lens btw, https://www.laowalenses.ca/product/20mm-f-4-zero-d-shift/

Regards,

Martin

Hm 24mm is a bit narrow indeed. I had somehow hoped it was 24mm FF equivalent.

Rightsaidfred wrote:

No experience with the lens.

The fl is a physical lens parameter. It is independent from the sensor.

You can say that a 24 mm lens on an APS-C body is equivalent to a 36 mm lens on a FF body when it comes to the angle of view.

Laowa has a 20 mm f/4 zero distortion shift lens btw, https://www.laowalenses.ca/product/20mm-f-4-zero-d-shift/

Regards,

Martin

Hi thnx for your reply.

the Laowa is a G mount unfortunately. Upgrading to gfx is a bit out of budget.

Hi,

As Andrew said, It's 24mm on any system.  The FOV that this gives you is the same as a 36mm camera on FF - which means that it's not very wide at all on APSC.  It would be tight for interiors.  Fuji don't offer any TS lenses - a gap in the brand's lens range.  Laowa offer a 15/4 macro with limited shift facility - as I understand it, the shift is limited to one direction.

The alternative for Fuji users is the 'adapter' route.  You could adapt a FF shift lens, one with an aperture ring to allow exposure control.  (I don't know if the smart adapters for Canon will allow you to control the aperture on their EF TS lenses.)  You could also adapt a FF non-shift lens and still get some useful movement.  The difficulty is not the adapter - they are very good.  Once mounted, they're no fiddlier than using any shift lens.

The difficulty with adaptation is getting the right lens in the right FL for APSC.  You need a lens with an aperture ring to control exposure and sharp in the outer image area, which you use more when shifted.  I used a Nikon AIS 20mmf2.8 with some success, but that still only had the FOV of a 30mm lens on FF - so still not very wide.  Legacy lenses wider than  20mm tend to get a bit soft by today's standards.  And really ultra-wide lenses like 14-16mm FF lenses from the film era just weren't that sharp.   CA's can also be an issue.

The age-old workaround is to crop from a modern WA non-shift lens.  You compose with the camera back parallel to the subject and crop off the bottom.  You would use a WA lens like the 14mm, 10-24, or any one of the many possible independent brand WA lenses (like perhaps the Viltrox 13/1.4).  Yes there is a loss to cropping, but the impact of this will be determined by exactly how much you're cropping off, and your output, ie how big you're printing.  High res sensors make this more feasible today than with earlier models.

Still another alternative is to consider SW correction of verticals.  I have no expertise in this but I believe it's evolved to be quite sophisticated.  There should be a lot of info online.

Hope that helps,

Rod

Rod McD wrote:

Hi,

As Andrew said, It's 24mm on any system. The FOV that this gives you is the same as a 36mm camera on FF - which means that it's not very wide at all on APSC. It would be tight for interiors. Fuji don't offer any TS lenses - a gap in the brand's lens range. Laowa offer a 15/4 macro with limited shift facility - as I understand it, the shift is limited to one direction.

The alternative for Fuji users is the 'adapter' route. You could adapt a FF shift lens, one with an aperture ring to allow exposure control. (I don't know if the smart adapters for Canon will allow you to control the aperture on their EF TS lenses.) You could also adapt a FF non-shift lens and still get some useful movement. The difficulty is not the adapter - they are very good. Once mounted, they're no fiddlier than using any shift lens.

The difficulty with adaptation is getting the right lens in the right FL for APSC. You need a lens with an aperture ring to control exposure and sharp in the outer image area, which you use more when shifted. I used a Nikon AIS 20mmf2.8 with some success, but that still only had the FOV of a 30mm lens on FF - so still not very wide. Legacy lenses wider than 20mm tend to get a bit soft by today's standards. And really ultra-wide lenses like 14-16mm FF lenses from the film era just weren't that sharp. CA's can also be an issue.

The age-old workaround is to crop from a modern WA non-shift lens. You compose with the camera back parallel to the subject and crop off the bottom. You would use a WA lens like the 14mm, 10-24, or any one of the many possible independent brand WA lenses (like perhaps the Viltrox 13/1.4). Yes there is a loss to cropping, but the impact of this will be determined by exactly how much you're cropping off, and your output, ie how big you're printing. High res sensors make this more feasible today than with earlier models.

Still another alternative is to consider SW correction of verticals. I have no expertise in this but I believe it's evolved to be quite sophisticated. There should be a lot of info online.

Hope that helps,

Rod

Hm you confirm my suspicion that there is still no proper TS offer out there. 
The tilting adapter route might work…i assume that would need to be paired with a FF wide angle lens to have the bigger projected image circle to allow for the shifting. F.e. the xf 8-16mm would have enormous vignetting, if I understand it correctly.

SW corrections of verticals is new to me? What is SW?

Sjeupie wrote:

Rod McD wrote:

Hi,

As Andrew said, It's 24mm on any system. The FOV that this gives you is the same as a 36mm camera on FF - which means that it's not very wide at all on APSC. It would be tight for interiors. Fuji don't offer any TS lenses - a gap in the brand's lens range. Laowa offer a 15/4 macro with limited shift facility - as I understand it, the shift is limited to one direction.

The alternative for Fuji users is the 'adapter' route. You could adapt a FF shift lens, one with an aperture ring to allow exposure control. (I don't know if the smart adapters for Canon will allow you to control the aperture on their EF TS lenses.) You could also adapt a FF non-shift lens and still get some useful movement. The difficulty is not the adapter - they are very good. Once mounted, they're no fiddlier than using any shift lens.

The difficulty with adaptation is getting the right lens in the right FL for APSC. You need a lens with an aperture ring to control exposure and sharp in the outer image area, which you use more when shifted. I used a Nikon AIS 20mmf2.8 with some success, but that still only had the FOV of a 30mm lens on FF - so still not very wide. Legacy lenses wider than 20mm tend to get a bit soft by today's standards. And really ultra-wide lenses like 14-16mm FF lenses from the film era just weren't that sharp. CA's can also be an issue.

The age-old workaround is to crop from a modern WA non-shift lens. You compose with the camera back parallel to the subject and crop off the bottom. You would use a WA lens like the 14mm, 10-24, or any one of the many possible independent brand WA lenses (like perhaps the Viltrox 13/1.4). Yes there is a loss to cropping, but the impact of this will be determined by exactly how much you're cropping off, and your output, ie how big you're printing. High res sensors make this more feasible today than with earlier models.

Still another alternative is to consider SW correction of verticals. I have no expertise in this but I believe it's evolved to be quite sophisticated. There should be a lot of info online.

Hope that helps,

Rod

Hm you confirm my suspicion that there is still no proper TS offer out there.
The tilting adapter route might work…i assume that would need to be paired with a FF wide angle lens to have the bigger projected image circle to allow for the shifting.

Correct

F.e. the xf 8-16mm would have enormous vignetting, if I understand it correctly.

You couldn't use any native XF lens on a TS adapter. The lens has to be one designed for a larger system (as you've observed above) and have a long enough registration distance to allow the adapter to be made to fit between your Fuji body and the adapted lens.

Edit - Native XF lenses like the 8-16, 10-24, 14mm etc, could only be used to achieve aligned verticals by repositioning and cropping the image.

SW corrections of verticals is new to me? What is SW?

SW - sorry - I should have expanded the acronym - Soft Ware. There are programs designed to correct converging verticals. I think DXO offer one.

If you plan to be doing a lot of architectural work, Fuji is less than ideal as a system.  If I were doing it for a living, I'd consider a Canon and a bunch of TS lenses, but that's a huge decision and a huge investment.

Regards,

Rod

Rod McD wrote:

Sjeupie wrote:

Rod McD wrote:

Hi,

As Andrew said, It's 24mm on any system. The FOV that this gives you is the same as a 36mm camera on FF - which means that it's not very wide at all on APSC. It would be tight for interiors. Fuji don't offer any TS lenses - a gap in the brand's lens range. Laowa offer a 15/4 macro with limited shift facility - as I understand it, the shift is limited to one direction.

The alternative for Fuji users is the 'adapter' route. You could adapt a FF shift lens, one with an aperture ring to allow exposure control. (I don't know if the smart adapters for Canon will allow you to control the aperture on their EF TS lenses.) You could also adapt a FF non-shift lens and still get some useful movement. The difficulty is not the adapter - they are very good. Once mounted, they're no fiddlier than using any shift lens.

The difficulty with adaptation is getting the right lens in the right FL for APSC. You need a lens with an aperture ring to control exposure and sharp in the outer image area, which you use more when shifted. I used a Nikon AIS 20mmf2.8 with some success, but that still only had the FOV of a 30mm lens on FF - so still not very wide. Legacy lenses wider than 20mm tend to get a bit soft by today's standards. And really ultra-wide lenses like 14-16mm FF lenses from the film era just weren't that sharp. CA's can also be an issue.

The age-old workaround is to crop from a modern WA non-shift lens. You compose with the camera back parallel to the subject and crop off the bottom. You would use a WA lens like the 14mm, 10-24, or any one of the many possible independent brand WA lenses (like perhaps the Viltrox 13/1.4). Yes there is a loss to cropping, but the impact of this will be determined by exactly how much you're cropping off, and your output, ie how big you're printing. High res sensors make this more feasible today than with earlier models.

Still another alternative is to consider SW correction of verticals. I have no expertise in this but I believe it's evolved to be quite sophisticated. There should be a lot of info online.

Hope that helps,

Rod

Hm you confirm my suspicion that there is still no proper TS offer out there.
The tilting adapter route might work…i assume that would need to be paired with a FF wide angle lens to have the bigger projected image circle to allow for the shifting.

Correct

F.e. the xf 8-16mm would have enormous vignetting, if I understand it correctly.

You couldn't use any native XF lens on a TS adapter. The lens has to be one designed for a larger system (as you've observed above) and have a long enough registration distance to allow the adapter to be made to fit between your Fuji body and the adapted lens.

Edit - Native XF lenses like the 8-16, 10-24, 14mm etc, could only be used to achieve aligned verticals by repositioning and cropping the image.

SW corrections of verticals is new to me? What is SW?

SW - sorry - I should have expanded the acronym - Soft Ware. There are programs designed to correct converging verticals. I think DXO offer one.

If you plan to be doing a lot of architectural work, Fuji is less than ideal as a system. If I were doing it for a living, I'd consider a Canon and a bunch of TS lenses, but that's a huge decision and a huge investment.

Regards,

Rod

Yeah I come from a background of adventure photography. So ‘journalism style’ in remote locations for weeks on end (Mongolia for example). A light kit that could be used in the dark with gloves (no fiddling in menu’s and loosing your night vision) was key. Fuji was/is great for that imho.

It then shifted more to extreme sports. Despite the af limits on the xt2 I made it work. Also because I could bring my kit to places I wouldn’t have brought my dslr.

Now trying more and more architecture. And fuji doesn’t shine there. Purely for the lack of the TS. Perhaps the 8-16 with heavy cropping works too… The xt5 has plenty of pixels to make up for it.

Otherwise might pick up a Canon D5 III or something and a TS lens. Pretty sure that will do. Need to think ahead though also on flash triggers and the likes. Sigh.

Thnx for the help!

Sjeupie wrote:

Rod McD wrote:

Sjeupie wrote:

Rod McD wrote:

Hi,

As Andrew said, It's 24mm on any system. The FOV that this gives you is the same as a 36mm camera on FF - which means that it's not very wide at all on APSC. It would be tight for interiors. Fuji don't offer any TS lenses - a gap in the brand's lens range. Laowa offer a 15/4 macro with limited shift facility - as I understand it, the shift is limited to one direction.

The alternative for Fuji users is the 'adapter' route. You could adapt a FF shift lens, one with an aperture ring to allow exposure control. (I don't know if the smart adapters for Canon will allow you to control the aperture on their EF TS lenses.) You could also adapt a FF non-shift lens and still get some useful movement. The difficulty is not the adapter - they are very good. Once mounted, they're no fiddlier than using any shift lens.

The difficulty with adaptation is getting the right lens in the right FL for APSC. You need a lens with an aperture ring to control exposure and sharp in the outer image area, which you use more when shifted. I used a Nikon AIS 20mmf2.8 with some success, but that still only had the FOV of a 30mm lens on FF - so still not very wide. Legacy lenses wider than 20mm tend to get a bit soft by today's standards. And really ultra-wide lenses like 14-16mm FF lenses from the film era just weren't that sharp. CA's can also be an issue.

The age-old workaround is to crop from a modern WA non-shift lens. You compose with the camera back parallel to the subject and crop off the bottom. You would use a WA lens like the 14mm, 10-24, or any one of the many possible independent brand WA lenses (like perhaps the Viltrox 13/1.4). Yes there is a loss to cropping, but the impact of this will be determined by exactly how much you're cropping off, and your output, ie how big you're printing. High res sensors make this more feasible today than with earlier models.

Still another alternative is to consider SW correction of verticals. I have no expertise in this but I believe it's evolved to be quite sophisticated. There should be a lot of info online.

Hope that helps,

Rod

Hm you confirm my suspicion that there is still no proper TS offer out there.
The tilting adapter route might work…i assume that would need to be paired with a FF wide angle lens to have the bigger projected image circle to allow for the shifting.

Correct

F.e. the xf 8-16mm would have enormous vignetting, if I understand it correctly.

You couldn't use any native XF lens on a TS adapter. The lens has to be one designed for a larger system (as you've observed above) and have a long enough registration distance to allow the adapter to be made to fit between your Fuji body and the adapted lens.

Edit - Native XF lenses like the 8-16, 10-24, 14mm etc, could only be used to achieve aligned verticals by repositioning and cropping the image.

SW corrections of verticals is new to me? What is SW?

SW - sorry - I should have expanded the acronym - Soft Ware. There are programs designed to correct converging verticals. I think DXO offer one.

If you plan to be doing a lot of architectural work, Fuji is less than ideal as a system. If I were doing it for a living, I'd consider a Canon and a bunch of TS lenses, but that's a huge decision and a huge investment.

Regards,

Rod

Yeah I come from a background of adventure photography. So ‘journalism style’ in remote locations for weeks on end (Mongolia for example). A light kit that could be used in the dark with gloves (no fiddling in menu’s and loosing your night vision) was key. Fuji was/is great for that imho.

It then shifted more to extreme sports. Despite the af limits on the xt2 I made it work. Also because I could bring my kit to places I wouldn’t have brought my dslr.

Now trying more and more architecture. And fuji doesn’t shine there. Purely for the lack of the TS.

Might pick up a Canon D5 III or something and a TS lens. Pretty sure that will do. Need to think ahead though also on flash triggers and the likes. Sigh.

Thnx for the help!

No worries. We seem to have followed related paths. I have always hiked and trekked, and still do. Add a little caving, climbing and kayaking. And in doing those you travel, and travel often involves architecture.... And then I worked as a photographer for a couple of years often doing architectural images.  Had the view camera, the whole bit. All a long time ago, and now I'm back to the lightest possible kit for hiking.  But beware, movements get under your skin..... once you've used movements it always feels like there's something missing without them.

Cheers, Rod

Sjeupie wrote:

Rightsaidfred wrote:

No experience with the lens.

The fl is a physical lens parameter. It is independent from the sensor.

You can say that a 24 mm lens on an APS-C body is equivalent to a 36 mm lens on a FF body when it comes to the angle of view.

Laowa has a 20 mm f/4 zero distortion shift lens btw, https://www.laowalenses.ca/product/20mm-f-4-zero-d-shift/

Regards,

Martin

Hi thnx for your reply.

the Laowa is a G mount unfortunately. Upgrading to gfx is a bit out of budget.

No no. That's not the way it works.

The lens is available for a number of mounts, including Fujifilm-G.

When using it with a medium format body (a Fujifilm GFX camera), you have a bit less degree of shift. But it is possible from the image circle.

Order that lens in any mount such as Canon-EF or Nikon-F, and buy a cheap passive (dumb) adapter for conversion into Fujifilm-X. Such adapters are available from $ 20 or so.

Regards,

Martin

Rightsaidfred wrote:

Sjeupie wrote:

Rightsaidfred wrote:

No experience with the lens.

The fl is a physical lens parameter. It is independent from the sensor.

You can say that a 24 mm lens on an APS-C body is equivalent to a 36 mm lens on a FF body when it comes to the angle of view.

Laowa has a 20 mm f/4 zero distortion shift lens btw, https://www.laowalenses.ca/product/20mm-f-4-zero-d-shift/

Regards,

Martin

Hi thnx for your reply.

the Laowa is a G mount unfortunately. Upgrading to gfx is a bit out of budget.

No no. That's not the way it works.

The lens is available for a number of mounts, including Fujifilm-G.

When using it with a medium format body (a Fujifilm GFX camera), you have a bit less degree of shift. But it is possible from the image circle.

Order that lens in any mount such as Canon-EF or Nikon-F, and buy a cheap passive (dumb) adapter for conversion into Fujifilm-X. Such adapters are available from $ 20 or so.

Regards,

Martin

Ohhh I see what you mean now. Since it is manual anyway a dumb adapted does just fine. 
At this point - since I’m aiming for using it for interiors as well - the Laowa 15mm seems like a better choice even. Or am I overlooking something obvious again?

''still no proper TS offer out there'

I think that sums it up and with a relatively small diameter lens mount it probably will remain so.  Fuji is a minority platform and TS is a very minority lens so I think it will remain the case.

Software correction (SW!) works well, to the point where shift is easily worked around.  DXOViewpoint is the best SW to correct converging verticals but others do it.  Don't fully correct, leave a little bit uncorrected.

People will tell you correction like this reduces detail and it is true.  Also it will crop the top and bottom of the image but it works well.

Your best solution is a used full frame DSLR body.

Rod McD wrote:

Sjeupie wrote:

Yeah I come from a background of adventure photography. So ‘journalism style’ in remote locations for weeks on end (Mongolia for example). A light kit that could be used in the dark with gloves (no fiddling in menu’s and loosing your night vision) was key. Fuji was/is great for that imho.

It then shifted more to extreme sports. Despite the af limits on the xt2 I made it work. Also because I could bring my kit to places I wouldn’t have brought my dslr.

Now trying more and more architecture. And fuji doesn’t shine there. Purely for the lack of the TS.

Might pick up a Canon D5 III or something and a TS lens. Pretty sure that will do. Need to think ahead though also on flash triggers and the likes. Sigh.

Thnx for the help!

No worries. We seem to have followed related paths. I have always hiked and trekked, and still do. Add a little caving, climbing and kayaking. And in doing those you travel, and travel often involves architecture.... And then I worked as a photographer for a couple of years often doing architectural images. Had the view camera, the whole bit. All a long time ago, and now I'm back to the lightest possible kit for hiking. But beware, movements get under your skin..... once you've used movements it always feels like there's something missing without them.

Cheers, Rod

It's good fun though to keep changing the type of photography we do. There's always overlap and you might approach things differently after having shot a completely different genre for some time. Shooting a couple of weddings really helped my sports photography for example. As strange as that may sound
You never stop learning!

a_c_skinner wrote:

''still no proper TS offer out there'

I think that sums it up and with a relatively small diameter lens mount it probably will remain so. Fuji is a minority platform and TS is a very minority lens so I think it will remain the case.

Software correction (SW!) works well, to the point where shift is easily worked around. DXOViewpoint is the best SW to correct converging verticals but others do it. Don't fully correct, leave a little bit uncorrected.

People will tell you correction like this reduces detail and it is true. Also it will crop the top and bottom of the image but it works well.

Your best solution is a used full frame DSLR body.

Yeah I agree. I got my hopes up a bit when they announced the GFX tilt shift but I don't see the coming down the line anytime soon. So I'm currently inclined to buying the mentioned Laowo 15mm Shift Canon mount with Canon to Fuji adapter and wing it from there.

If that does not give the desired result, a FF Canon DSLR is the next stop and I'd already have the lens for that. Although I'd prefer a mirrorless for focus peaking, that sets me back big bucks. So something like a beaten up 5d III I saw around here for a couple hundred bucks might do the job.

It's a mess to use two systems side by side during one shoot though. I could also go all in and opt for an Canon R5 for example and be set for my sports photography as well...but then I'd loose my beloved Fuji system and dials (the reason I'm not going for an XH2(s) for that)...

Or get the 8-16 xf lens on my xt and try out the software corrections incl crops as necessary.

Decisions, decisions.....

Sjeupie wrote:

Hi all,

For architecture currently using my 10-24mm on xt2 and correcting skewed lines in post.
Looking at the Samyang T-S 24mm tilt shift. Anyone has experience with it?

Honestly, I do not really understand what the focal length is on the fuji system because it is named 24mm for all the mounts (including FF and M43...) and only marginal info is available for this lens. Obviously, for interior shots I need it to be quite wide.

As much as I love my xt2, I might have to switch to Canon or something for purely architectural gigs due to the lack of tilt-shifts for the x-system. So I really hope this Samyang could prevent me from doing that. I'm not too keen on the Kipong adapter solutions etc; seems fiddly.

Cheers in advance!

I don't have any personal experience with this lens but I investigated it a bit about a year ago. What I found was that most reviewers found it to be not so very sharp.

So I would say, it's a no-go for high quality work.

Your best option might be either a Canon tilt-shift lens for EF mount with an adapter, or a generic tilt-shift mount-adapter from Fuji X-mount to mount of your choice. I believe Fotodiox is a brand that sells such an adapter.

Then you can choose a (manual!) lens you like and the appropriate adapter version, and you have tilt-shift with any lens for that mount.

Just make sure it is a manual lens: manual focus and manual aperture. Any decent 1970s-era lens should do, especially medium format since they have a nice big image circle.

But MF lenses are not usually very wide.  The OP has two rational solutions.  Correct perspective in software or find a full frame DSLR.

The only thing I really miss about my late Nikon kit is a tilt lens.  As you say you can get adaptors with tilt and shift but you are left to find a full frame lens with good edge performance AND wide enough.

Consider a Kipon tilt/shift adapter for Fuji-X.  I have one.  Works great.  Mine is for adapting Nikon F mount lenses.  So any F mount lens can become a tilt-shift lens on a Fujifilm X-mount body.  I used it with a Samyang 14mm lens to get a 21mm field of view equivalent.  But any focal length will work.

Here's the caveat, however.  You will not really be able to use any lens correction profiles when using the adapted lenses when shifted (or tilted).  Therefore, when the intended use is to shift the lens you are best off to use a very well corrected lens or you may get noticeable distortion with things like architecture that have straight lines.

michaeladawson wrote:

Consider a Kipon tilt/shift adapter for Fuji-X. I have one. Works great. Mine is for adapting Nikon F mount lenses. So any F mount lens can become a tilt-shift lens on a Fujifilm X-mount body. I used it with a Samyang 14mm lens to get a 21mm field of view equivalent. But any focal length will work.

Here's the caveat, however. You will not really be able to use any lens correction profiles when using the adapted lenses when shifted (or tilted). Therefore, when the intended use is to shift the lens you are best off to use a very well corrected lens or you may get noticeable distortion with things like architecture that have straight lines.

Somewhere in my research of the last couple of days I found a gay (Pat, I believe) that wrote lens correction profiles on demand. That could help.

Would you mind posting/referring to some of your images? As per my initial post, I originally discarded the adapters idea (including the Kipon) as I deemed it finicky and not working well as I barely see people using it. So I'm intrigued about your positive feedback.

Sjeupie wrote:

michaeladawson wrote:

Consider a Kipon tilt/shift adapter for Fuji-X. I have one. Works great. Mine is for adapting Nikon F mount lenses. So any F mount lens can become a tilt-shift lens on a Fujifilm X-mount body. I used it with a Samyang 14mm lens to get a 21mm field of view equivalent. But any focal length will work.

Here's the caveat, however. You will not really be able to use any lens correction profiles when using the adapted lenses when shifted (or tilted). Therefore, when the intended use is to shift the lens you are best off to use a very well corrected lens or you may get noticeable distortion with things like architecture that have straight lines.

Somewhere in my research of the last couple of days I found a gay (Pat, I believe) that wrote lens correction profiles on demand. That could help.

Would you mind posting/referring to some of your images? As per my initial post, I originally discarded the adapters idea (including the Kipon) as I deemed it finicky and not working well as I barely see people using it. So I'm intrigued about your positive feedback.

Hi guys,

I'm using the FOTODIOX shift adapters (Canon EF + Nikon F to Fuji XF) with these manual wide angle lenses on my Fuji X-T4 (did not try them yet with the X-T5!):

1. Laowa 12 mm/f 2.8 Zero-D Canon EF mount
2. Laowa 14 mm/f 4.0 Zero-D Nikon F mount

And they work pretty well (almost no distortion). The 12 mm is a slightly better lens. I use them stopped down to about f 8.0-11.0. I can post pictures if needed. It's better to use those lenses on a tripod of course, but once you got the hang of it you can use it also handheld...

Best, Christian