jalywol
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Forum Pro
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Posts: 12,301
Re: Not sure about my 100-400. Sometimes great, sometimes subpar...
9
I think your lens is performing as I would expect it to.
The only thing about the lens itself that I find questionable is there seems to be a fair bit of purple fringing on brightly lit white edges of subjects (birds). If it were me, I would see if stopping down and being VERY careful with exposure, on that type of subject, improves the CA problem.
You also have to remember that if you use a TC, you are going to radically increase the likelihood of CA on bright edges, esp if you don't stop down more with it, also.
There are other things to remember, too:
- If you are shooting over water, temperature gradients at the water's surface can mess the hell out of your shots. I see that in a few of yours.
- Distance is the enemy. The further you are from the subject, the less detail you will be able to recover in PP, and the more atmospheric distortion will affect your image.
- Be careful with exposure. Underexpose when you have bright subjects, or subjects with bright sun hitting part of them. (Those are difficult subjects to get right anyway). In other words, expose for the brightest part of the image, or close to it.
- AF can get fooled by things in the environment. I was shooting with the S5 the other day (which has DFD but not PDAF) on S-AF, and the subject was a fairly distant heron with brightly lit water with contrasty ripples behind it. About 2/3 of the shots were very nicely focused on the contrasty water ripples, and left me with a fuzzy bird, which aggravated me greatly. A couple of days later I went out again, to a very similar situation, and I used the animal detect setting, still S-AF though. It worked great; my in-focus hit rate went up to about 70%, which I consider about what I expect for me with distant birds with a long tele. So, I think you should experiment with your settings and see if changing a few shooting parameters gives you a better hit rate.
- Keep your ISO down as much as you can. I still try and shoot as much as I can with M43 with ISO 200 or 400, as it really optimizes the detail you can get while minimizing the noise. I understand it's always the argument between shutter speed and ISO and aperture, but as a rule, if the light is really lousy, I don't expect to get my best results.
- If you aren't using a monopod, consider it. Bracing and support make a HUGE difference in the behavior of long telephotos like this.
That's all that comes to mind at the moment.
-J