Your favorite Fuji camera body for use with vintage manual focus lenses

The "Your favorite" series of threads now also include bodys, since no lens takes images without a camera body.

To avoid "brand wars" this thread is only for Fuji.
Similar threads focusing on each of the other brands will follow.

So, which Fuji model (mirrorless/DSLR, medium format/crop etc) do you think is the best for use with vintage manual focus lenses and why?

Bonus questions:

• What are the pros and cons of your favorite body?
• How do you manual focus with it (describe the process)?
• Does your favorite body have IBIS and how well does it work?
• Does your favorite body have a database function one can build up in the body that stamps the lens name into the Exif and sets the IBIS right (if it has IBIS)?
• Does your favorite body support adapted lenses in any other good way?
• Which MF adapter brand and type (tube type with or without optics) do you use with your favorite body?
• Which camera body from Fuji that you have tried, should be avoided for manual focus vintage lenses and why?
• Is there in your view a budget body from Fuji for manual focus vintage lenses that would be good for a beginner or someone with a lower budget and why?

Extra bonus questions:

• Since autofocus lenses have been around since the mid 80s and starts to become vintage as well: If you do use your camera body with adapted AF-glass, which AF-mount do you use it with and which adapter do you use? How do you think it works?
• Any other thing about your favorite Fuji body that is worth to mention?

lattesweden wrote:

The "Your favorite" series of threads now also include bodys, since no lens takes images without a camera body.

To avoid "brand wars" this thread is only for Fuji.
Similar threads focusing on each of the other brands will follow.

So, which Fuji model (mirrorless/DSLR, medium format/crop etc) do you think is the best for use with vintage manual focus lenses and why?

X-T1, or any X-Tx, X-Txx or X-Hx.  Large EVF for focusing, and large grip.

Bonus questions:

• What are the pros and cons of your favorite body? 

It has a nice grip and the battery grip adds extra weight to balance the weight of the heavy vintage lenses.

• How do you manual focus with it (describe the process)?

Magnification.  Peaking turned off.  Too many false positive focusing with peaking.

• Does your favorite body have IBIS and how well does it work?

No, but it would be nice.

• Does your favorite body have a database function one can build up in the body that stamps the lens name into the Exif and sets the IBIS right (if it has IBIS)?

No.

• Does your favorite body support adapted lenses in any other good way?

Focal length can be added, but I tend to do it in post.

• Which MF adapter brand and type (tube type with or without optics) do you use with your favorite body?

Lens turbo II

• Which camera body from Fuji that you have tried, should be avoided for manual focus vintage lenses and why?

Any X-Pro body as the OVF is practically useless with manual focus lenses.  The ERF can help a little. The lack of grip also makes it difficult to handle longer and heavier lenses.  The X-Ex series also has the grip issue.

• Is there in your view a budget body from Fuji for manual focus vintage lenses that would be good for a beginner or someone with a lower budget and why?

X-T1, X-T10, etc.

Not a Fuji fan in general, but I have a couple Fujis: X-E2 and X-H1. I really like the small size and the various film simulations of the X-E2, and I use it with physically smaller lenses for walk around snap shooting. I wish I liked the X-H1 more as it has much that I want…IBIS, good EVF, excellent ergonomics, beautiful shutter. But I focus using magnification and the higher magn on it, like on Nikons, is not enough. The IBIS not effective enough after 135mm.  The images are very good, but the IBIS and focusing aids on my m4/3 bodies are better. Maybe the upcoming X-H2 will be the ticket.

ProfHankD wrote:

lattesweden wrote:

So, which Fuji model (mirrorless/DSLR, medium format/crop etc) do you think is the best for use with vintage manual focus lenses and why?

Most designed-for-FF lenses can cover more than 36x24mm, and many can fully cover the GFX sensor. Me like big sensor.

Just the other day a thread popped up at the MF lens forum with a long list with lenses that works with the GFX in max resolution: http://forum.mflenses.com/list-of-mf-lenses-on-fuji-gfx-t83733.html

Why don't I have one?

1. Not very compatible with my Sony A-mount and E-mount lenses.

2. Expensive.

3. Not a fan of Fuji colors (but I'd live with them ).

I've seen quite many portraits taken with vintage FF lenses on a GFX and they do look really good since the DOF gets enhanced due to the crop factor. Jonas Rask uses Minolta SR-lenses, see here: https://jonasraskphotography.com/2017/08/16/minolta-x-fujifilm/

50R

50R

50R

50R

Did I make that clear?

I've pretty much stopped adapting film lenses to my aps-c Fuji.  The little sensor just does not do justice to the lenses.

Here's a photo.   Pentax-A 135/2.8 on 50R.  Wide open.

Michael Floyd wrote:

50R

50R

50R

50R

Did I make that clear?

I've pretty much stopped adapting film lenses to my aps-c Fuji. The little sensor just does not do justice to the lenses.

Here's a photo. Pentax-A 135/2.8 on 50R. Wide open.

Nice!

How does one do manual focus the best way on the 50R? Peaking? Magnify? Any other functions that helps with that?

lattesweden wrote:

Nice!

How does one do manual focus the best way on the 50R? Peaking? Magnify? Any other functions that helps with that?

It's pretty good for the manual focus experience, there are plenty of options and ways to set up those options.

I mostly punch in to a zoom level and focus without any further aids. There's 4 levels of zoom, easily switchable between them, which is actually an excellent feature for the manual focuser.  One button push to punch in, repeat the single button or half press the shutter to get back to full screen.  The zoom levels range from pretty broad which is nice for active subjects to very very close for critical focus.  There is peaking as well, I only really use it when shooting on the rear screen when I've forgotten my reading glasses. Long press on the nominated punch in button to turn peaking on or off.

Moving the focus point is as simple as giving the joystick a nudge -  anytime works, fullscreen or zoomed in.  I have it set to require a push down on the joystick to activate it, however it can be always live too.  Unless there is a specific reason not to I leave the focus point central and recompose.

Ah..   that's it for focussing. It's easy, fast, accurate, enjoyable.

Exposure, I pull up an RGB Histogram and 'highlight warning' with a single button push. Repeat same button or half press shutter to return.  The Blinkies can be always active however I prefer them to be off when finalising my framing.

Another nice thing about adapting lenses to the GFX is that the Focal flange distance is a bit longer, which means that the adapters are shorter.  What was a nice compact little lens in the film era gets a bit long adapted to Sony/Fuji-X etc,  On the GFX it return pretty much to feeling like a nice little compact lens.

Lastly and not really about manual focus but at the very least consistent with the desires of many folk who lean towards the vintage lens thing. No PASM.   (Thank you Fuji.)

Michael Floyd wrote:

lattesweden wrote:

Nice!

How does one do manual focus the best way on the 50R? Peaking? Magnify? Any other functions that helps with that?

It's pretty good for the manual focus experience, there are plenty of options and ways to set up those options.

I mostly punch in to a zoom level and focus without any further aids. There's 4 levels of zoom, easily switchable between them, which is actually an excellent feature for the manual focuser. One button push to punch in, repeat the single button or half press the shutter to get back to full screen. The zoom levels range from pretty broad which is nice for active subjects to very very close for critical focus. There is peaking as well, I only really use it when shooting on the rear screen when I've forgotten my reading glasses. Long press on the nominated punch in button to turn peaking on or off.

Moving the focus point is as simple as giving the joystick a nudge - anytime works, fullscreen or zoomed in. I have it set to require a push down on the joystick to activate it, however it can be always live too. Unless there is a specific reason not to I leave the focus point central and recompose.

Ah.. that's it for focussing. It's easy, fast, accurate, enjoyable.

Exposure, I pull up an RGB Histogram and 'highlight warning' with a single button push. Repeat same button or half press shutter to return. The Blinkies can be always active however I prefer them to be off when finalising my framing.

Another nice thing about adapting lenses to the GFX is that the Focal flange distance is a bit longer, which means that the adapters are shorter. What was a nice compact little lens in the film era gets a bit long adapted to Sony/Fuji-X etc, On the GFX it return pretty much to feeling like a nice little compact lens.

Lastly and not really about manual focus but at the very least consistent with the desires of many folk who lean towards the vintage lens thing. No PASM. (Thank you Fuji.)

Thanks! Some Fuji bodys seems to have Digital Split Image, Digital Microprisms and Dual Display that aids with manual focus, does the GFX bodys have this as well?

Blood N Guts Murphy wrote:

Thanks for a well written answer!

Film Simulations:

All Fujifilm cameras can be used with all film simulations provided by Lightroom and Capture One with little hacks (see Pal2Tech on YouTube). Or you can use Cobalt Image film simulations to do it for other brand cameras and even some phones. Knowing this is a big help when you don't want a new body, or if you want simulations only on the medium format cameras i.e. Nostalgic Negative, which is currently my default and great with vintage lenses. I also use Classic Negative a lot which is only on the latest 4th gen APSC Fujis.

If you want to bake the look in-camera, so it feels like using film more: Fuji's JPGs are legendary. But only Classic Chrome on the 2nd gen (Xtrans 2) is filmic imho (along with Nostalgic Neg and Classic Neg on newer cameras). When I first got an XE2 I loved baking the look in camera using Velvia mostly (their vivid profile), then there were new options added with the next round of cameras like adding grain and using the new Acros simulation (Xtrans 3). The most recent 4th generation of Xtrans had even more options for "JPG recipes" and new simulations. The FujiXWeekly website features many of these recipes to help you bake a look into your Fuji e.g. lift/crush shadows, add grain, pick a film simulation, tweak white balance...

All these film simulations, both for RAW and JPEG are interesting I think. Do you have any example images you can show?

lattesweden wrote:

Thanks! Some Fuji bodys seems to have Digital Split Image, Digital Microprisms and Dual Display that aids with manual focus, does the GFX bodys have this as well?

Straight zoom, peaking and dual display are the options.

I really tried to like the Digital Split Image and Microprism simulation on my Pro-3, I really wanted them to work and feel like an SLR focussing experience.  Unfortunately, for me, they just don't.  Not having them as options is better because switching from peaking to straight zoom is direct back and forth one to the other.   With the other options it means cycling through all the options until you get around to the one you want, which is boring.  (Dual display is accessed differently, with the 'disp' button.)