X-H2s three weeks in...

I hear they solved many of your issues with the A1, but why pay twice as much for a body when you can get 99% of what you need in the X-H2s?  
Personally, I find Fuji's new offering awesome and I shoot the same things you do.

Don't do it, that super wide opening on the 16 - 55 is providing fantastic image quality and I just don't think that 16 - 80 can match it optically.

SoCalDawg wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

Don't do it, that super wide opening on the 16 - 55 is providing fantastic image quality and I just don't think that 16 - 80 can match it optically.

16-55mm is amazing.. just a brick in the bag. I’m seriously considering pairing the 18 1.4 with my 33 1.4 and X100V .. then the question will be do I need the heavy zoom.. as I am a slight crop away from it with the primes.. sans 16mm of course. I mainly use primes indoors so it’s a lot of $ and weight for an outdoor walk around lens.

Yeah I definitely wouldn't class it a walk around lens that's for sure. The only reason I have one is I need a zoom for my freelance press work as you just never know where you'll find yourself plus I needed the f2.8 for low light scenarios - only for that last point I'd be happily operating with the 16-80.

For "planned" photoshoots or for my own personal usage I find I will always gravitate towards my 23 and 56 f1.4 primes - these do 90% of my commercial/private work.

GMacF wrote:

SoCalDawg wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

Don't do it, that super wide opening on the 16 - 55 is providing fantastic image quality and I just don't think that 16 - 80 can match it optically.

16-55mm is amazing.. just a brick in the bag. I’m seriously considering pairing the 18 1.4 with my 33 1.4 and X100V .. then the question will be do I need the heavy zoom.. as I am a slight crop away from it with the primes.. sans 16mm of course. I mainly use primes indoors so it’s a lot of $ and weight for an outdoor walk around lens.

Yeah I definitely wouldn't class it a walk around lens that's for sure. The only reason I have one is I need a zoom for my freelance press work as you just never know where you'll find yourself plus I needed the f2.8 for low light scenarios - only for that last point I'd be happily operating with the 16-80.

For "planned" photoshoots or for my own personal usage I find I will always gravitate towards my 23 and 56 f1.4 primes - these do 90% of my commercial/private work.

Honesty, I have never actually seen one in person, I have seen the results though and it is pretty impressive what it delivers.  I hear it is similar in size and weight to the 50 f/1, so I guess I'll get to see what that weight is all about later today.

FuzzyDice wrote:

So after spending about 3 weeks with X-H2s, I find myself liking more than I dislike, but some aspects aren't living up to my expectations.

CONTROLS

So, the controls are an issue for many people used to shooting with the X-T line of cameras... I personally love the X-Tx line of control and wish that were something they kept for the X-H2s, but they didn't. However, I do not consider this a deal breaker, as the 7 custom setups can more easily preset AF, shooting mode, EV Comp, AF Type, Burst Type, and IQ settings. This is all pretty intuitive and not a bad way to shoot over all.

Question about the C1-7 setup options that I haven't seen in reviews. Can you mix both photo and video in the custom setups? I shoot both a lot, so it would be nice if I can have a few custom setups for 24/60/120 fps and have the shutter at double the frame rate, gamma settings and such - along with a photo presets for birds, people and landscapes.

I'm in the Sony and Fuji camp, still can't decide if the XH2s will fit my needs. I wish Fuji had a tap to track option like Sony's, but that's not a deal breaker. I'm mostly looking at how easily I can move between photo and video settings.

Cheers

Chris

Hi Chris,

I am not sure what you mean by mixing photo and video custom settings. You can define for each custom bank (C1 - C7) whether it is for photo or video.

I am not a hardcore hybrid shooter but for my needs I have setup 5 custom setting for the different photo needs I have (action, landscape, studio, ...) and 2 video custom settings .

I can now just switch between these settings with a turn on the dial. I think that is the whole idea of the pasm dial and the C settings, right?

Thomas

GMacF wrote:

SoCalDawg wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

Don't do it, that super wide opening on the 16 - 55 is providing fantastic image quality and I just don't think that 16 - 80 can match it optically.

16-55mm is amazing.. just a brick in the bag. I’m seriously considering pairing the 18 1.4 with my 33 1.4 and X100V .. then the question will be do I need the heavy zoom.. as I am a slight crop away from it with the primes.. sans 16mm of course. I mainly use primes indoors so it’s a lot of $ and weight for an outdoor walk around lens.

Yeah I definitely wouldn't class it a walk around lens that's for sure. The only reason I have one is I need a zoom for my freelance press work as you just never know where you'll find yourself plus I needed the f2.8 for low light scenarios - only for that last point I'd be happily operating with the 16-80.

For "planned" photoshoots or for my own personal usage I find I will always gravitate towards my 23 and 56 f1.4 primes - these do 90% of my commercial/private work.

That just goes to show you that we all have our own tolerances for weight and size.  The 16-55 is absolutely a "walk around" lens for me, and I'm not really bothered by the weight or size, even attached to my X-H1 with grip.  Admittedly, I have simply gotten used to the size/bulk/weight of my kit, and acknowledge that it wouldn't by any means be OK for everyone.  Probably hauling my 100-400 all over creation might simply have built up my tolerance just a bit.

Jerry-astro wrote:

GMacF wrote:

SoCalDawg wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

Don't do it, that super wide opening on the 16 - 55 is providing fantastic image quality and I just don't think that 16 - 80 can match it optically.

16-55mm is amazing.. just a brick in the bag. I’m seriously considering pairing the 18 1.4 with my 33 1.4 and X100V .. then the question will be do I need the heavy zoom.. as I am a slight crop away from it with the primes.. sans 16mm of course. I mainly use primes indoors so it’s a lot of $ and weight for an outdoor walk around lens.

Yeah I definitely wouldn't class it a walk around lens that's for sure. The only reason I have one is I need a zoom for my freelance press work as you just never know where you'll find yourself plus I needed the f2.8 for low light scenarios - only for that last point I'd be happily operating with the 16-80.

For "planned" photoshoots or for my own personal usage I find I will always gravitate towards my 23 and 56 f1.4 primes - these do 90% of my commercial/private work.

That just goes to show you that we all have our own tolerances for weight and size. The 16-55 is absolutely a "walk around" lens for me, and I'm not really bothered by the weight or size, even attached to my X-H1 with grip. Admittedly, I have simply gotten used to the size/bulk/weight of my kit, and acknowledge that it wouldn't by any means be OK for everyone. Probably hauling my 100-400 all over creation might simply have built up my tolerance just a bit.

Of course that’s understandable. Subjectively I certainly don’t think the 16-55 is large or heavy for what it is - a f2.8 zoom - it’s just a little larger and heavier than I would like as a walk around. I lugged my Canon DSLR bodies and EF 24-70 f4 around for years - including our honeymoon which I don’t think the OH was too enamoured with  - so I really enjoy the lightweight options I have with Fuji. I still have the big boy lenses and bodies when needed.

Trek of Joy wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

So after spending about 3 weeks with X-H2s, I find myself liking more than I dislike, but some aspects aren't living up to my expectations.

CONTROLS

So, the controls are an issue for many people used to shooting with the X-T line of cameras... I personally love the X-Tx line of control and wish that were something they kept for the X-H2s, but they didn't. However, I do not consider this a deal breaker, as the 7 custom setups can more easily preset AF, shooting mode, EV Comp, AF Type, Burst Type, and IQ settings. This is all pretty intuitive and not a bad way to shoot over all.

Question about the C1-7 setup options that I haven't seen in reviews. Can you mix both photo and video in the custom setups? I shoot both a lot, so it would be nice if I can have a few custom setups for 24/60/120 fps and have the shutter at double the frame rate, gamma settings and such - along with a photo presets for birds, people and landscapes.

I'm in the Sony and Fuji camp, still can't decide if the XH2s will fit my needs. I wish Fuji had a tap to track option like Sony's, but that's not a deal breaker. I'm mostly looking at how easily I can move between photo and video settings.

Cheers

Chris

I haven't verified this, but some on here say you get 7 banks for each.  So the settings for C3 will be different for Video than they are for Stills.

GMacF wrote:

Jerry-astro wrote:

GMacF wrote:

SoCalDawg wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

Don't do it, that super wide opening on the 16 - 55 is providing fantastic image quality and I just don't think that 16 - 80 can match it optically.

16-55mm is amazing.. just a brick in the bag. I’m seriously considering pairing the 18 1.4 with my 33 1.4 and X100V .. then the question will be do I need the heavy zoom.. as I am a slight crop away from it with the primes.. sans 16mm of course. I mainly use primes indoors so it’s a lot of $ and weight for an outdoor walk around lens.

Yeah I definitely wouldn't class it a walk around lens that's for sure. The only reason I have one is I need a zoom for my freelance press work as you just never know where you'll find yourself plus I needed the f2.8 for low light scenarios - only for that last point I'd be happily operating with the 16-80.

For "planned" photoshoots or for my own personal usage I find I will always gravitate towards my 23 and 56 f1.4 primes - these do 90% of my commercial/private work.

That just goes to show you that we all have our own tolerances for weight and size. The 16-55 is absolutely a "walk around" lens for me, and I'm not really bothered by the weight or size, even attached to my X-H1 with grip. Admittedly, I have simply gotten used to the size/bulk/weight of my kit, and acknowledge that it wouldn't by any means be OK for everyone. Probably hauling my 100-400 all over creation might simply have built up my tolerance just a bit.

Of course that’s understandable. Subjectively I certainly don’t think the 16-55 is large or heavy for what it is - a f2.8 zoom - it’s just a little larger and heavier than I would like as a walk around. I lugged my Canon DSLR bodies and EF 24-70 f4 around for years - including our honeymoon which I don’t think the OH was too enamoured with - so I really enjoy the lightweight options I have with Fuji. I still have the big boy lenses and bodies when needed.

Yup, which is why the whole argument is highly subjective.  Where I have issues would be statements that declare the size/weight as completely unacceptable for a larger audience, as opposed to being something very much an individual decision.  I think a lot of the opinions stated here would be more credible, and perhaps less controversial, if they included “… for me” as part of the statement, as opposed to supposedly representing the needs of a much broader audience.

As far as the 16-55 goes, it also depends a lot on whether constant f/2.8 aperture is important enough to justify the additional bulk and weight.  For me, at least, it certainly does, but clearly that view is hardly universal.  It’s nice to have choices.  

anadon5000 wrote:

GMacF wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

anadon5000 wrote:

So with all of that said, do you (or anybody out there) find eye af would have a really high hit rate (like a Canon/Sony) with kids without setting af to confirm focus first? at something like 10fps ? And does that confirm-first method feel laggy? Really dying to finally get a Fuji and it’s awesome AWB/SkinTones/colors w/ great eye af like Sony, etc… or close…. Thanks!

That’s the issue isn’t it.

So consider this

Canon EOS R6

Mechanical 12 FPS

Electronic 20 FPS

Prone to Rolling Shutter

Sony A7 IV

10 FPS Max

Electronic is Prone to Rolling Shutter

Fuji X-H2S

Mechanical 15 FPS Max

Electronic 40 FPS Max 0 Blackout with AF

Rolling Shutter is not a significant issue at all.

So, if you can drop to 15 FPS Electronic with a 100% hit rate, and you’re only dropping about 11% of the frames at 40 FPS Electronic Shutter, then I would say it is already ahead of the competition that is in the same price range.

Oh and Confirm AF was about 15 FPS, so that’s pretty damn good. Also, I can shoot Electronic shutter without worrying about distortion. This is a crop sensor A9 II or A1 class camera.

I'm not sure if what I'm about to say is entirely relevant to the above but I found it to work superbly for sports. When shooting football (soccer) on my X-T4 I would have to turn off Eye AF as it was more a hindrance than anything else. However I finally got to a match at the weekend and on the X-H2S I left Eye AF on and it worked brilliantly. I haven't done a deep dive but, at a quick glance, out of the ~1200 shots I took just one, yes ONE, was OOF. I was running 30fps in x1.25 crop mode (just so I could do a direct comparison with the X-T4).

The other caveat is I was using it in Focus release priority which I know is not what was asked above but I just wanted to share my own findings in case they are in anyway useful.

yeah, great, more good first-hand feedback, thanks!. I'm with the OP and now leaning fuji over r6... am hearing more and more positive results re: eye af results...

And now you get a 325 Gig CF Express Type B card if you buy it within the next 2 months. So that will save you several hundred on the card.

SoCalDawg wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

anadon5000 wrote:

GMacF wrote:

FuzzyDice wrote:

anadon5000 wrote:

So with all of that said, do you (or anybody out there) find eye af would have a really high hit rate (like a Canon/Sony) with kids without setting af to confirm focus first? at something like 10fps ? And does that confirm-first method feel laggy? Really dying to finally get a Fuji and it’s awesome AWB/SkinTones/colors w/ great eye af like Sony, etc… or close…. Thanks!

That’s the issue isn’t it.

So consider this

Canon EOS R6

Mechanical 12 FPS

Electronic 20 FPS

Prone to Rolling Shutter

Sony A7 IV

10 FPS Max

Electronic is Prone to Rolling Shutter

Fuji X-H2S

Mechanical 15 FPS Max

Electronic 40 FPS Max 0 Blackout with AF

Rolling Shutter is not a significant issue at all.

So, if you can drop to 15 FPS Electronic with a 100% hit rate, and you’re only dropping about 11% of the frames at 40 FPS Electronic Shutter, then I would say it is already ahead of the competition that is in the same price range.

Oh and Confirm AF was about 15 FPS, so that’s pretty damn good. Also, I can shoot Electronic shutter without worrying about distortion. This is a crop sensor A9 II or A1 class camera.

I'm not sure if what I'm about to say is entirely relevant to the above but I found it to work superbly for sports. When shooting football (soccer) on my X-T4 I would have to turn off Eye AF as it was more a hindrance than anything else. However I finally got to a match at the weekend and on the X-H2S I left Eye AF on and it worked brilliantly. I haven't done a deep dive but, at a quick glance, out of the ~1200 shots I took just one, yes ONE, was OOF. I was running 30fps in x1.25 crop mode (just so I could do a direct comparison with the X-T4).

The other caveat is I was using it in Focus release priority which I know is not what was asked above but I just wanted to share my own findings in case they are in anyway useful.

yeah, great, more good first-hand feedback, thanks!. I'm with the OP and now leaning fuji over r6... am hearing more and more positive results re: eye af results...

And now you get a 325 Gig CF Express Type B card if you buy it within the next 2 months. So that will save you several hundred on the card.

This rebate goes back to May 31 purchase date. I just submitted.

Yep, me too!

TomU_CH wrote:

Hi Chris,

I am not sure what you mean by mixing photo and video custom settings. You can define for each custom bank (C1 - C7) whether it is for photo or video.

I am not a hardcore hybrid shooter but for my needs I have setup 5 custom setting for the different photo needs I have (action, landscape, studio, ...) and 2 video custom settings .

I can now just switch between these settings with a turn on the dial. I think that is the whole idea of the pasm dial and the C settings, right?

Thomas

Hey thanks! Yes that's what I'm talking about, just moving between C1-7 and having different photo or video settings. I usually shoot stills and then just flip the dial to shoot some video of the scene - usually at 24 fps for landscapes or 120 fps for wildlife or things that can be slowed down and looks cool like waves at the beach.

Some things just aren't clear when reading the manual, appreciate the response.

Cheers!

Chis

A rare case of a review with great sample pictures!