Minimum shutter speed to freeze the fish?

Hey guys,

I'm going to a trip and need the best settings possible because light is not huge there, so I'm going to do (freediving, no flash/oxigen):

- 1/500

- f11

- AUTO ISO

Do you guys think I could go to 1/400 or lower or by your experience 1/500 is the minimum to total freeze 100% of shoots?

Thanks!

Thanks, reduce to 1/400 should help my ISO!

stillviking wrote:

Hey guys,

I'm going to a trip and need the best settings possible because light is not huge there, so I'm going to do (freediving, no flash/oxigen):

- 1/500

- f11

- AUTO ISO

Do you guys think I could go to 1/400 or lower or by your experience 1/500 is the minimum to total freeze 100% of shoots?

Thanks!

need to tell us the camera.   Jump settings are highly dependent on the system.

Moat of us cannot use a setting faster than 1/200th or 1/250th and still sync to the strobe unless we do some intricate (and not so reliable) setup.   1/200th is plenty.   I think most of the time 1/120th would also suffice.

F/11 is probably not a good idea for a compact.   If you're light challenged, you may have little choice but to open it pretty wide.   The ISO has to be kept reasonable - 400 or less, I'd think.   AutoISO may work against you, esp if the model doesn't let you set a max acceptable.

Can you manage with a SOLA light (or similar) on the camera?    Some light is better than none at all.

Canon R!

then at least you have a lot of latitude with the ISO.   And if you're looking to freedive with a FF, I'm guessing your bottom time is pretty decent.   Are you able to come to a slow hold before you hit the shutter, or are you rushing them?   That could be the difference between 1/200th and 1/400th.     How wide is the focal range?

On scuba, I'd make my jump setting (starting point), f/8, 1/200th, 400 ISO.   If too dark in general, then try 640 and 800.   If I'm able to get to the fish without freaking them out, lower to 1/100th if I can, or to f 5.6.  The bigger the fish, or the closer I could get, the less likely I can get away with the wider aperture.   But with a fisheye, you can often do fine with very open lenses.

I prefer manual over Canon's auto for ISO, A or S, but lighting is more predictable on scuba and there's more time to meter.   Your lighting will be more variable as depth varies.  So maybe that means setting your min speed and max acceptable ISO and letting A drift.