Wildlife Trip: M6 II + EF 100-400L vs R5/R6/R7 + RF 100-400/RF 100-500L?

I've got a 3 week Arctic cruise trip coming up in 2 weeks (mid-July) and need help figuring out my kit.

I've already got an M5 w/ 18-150 & 11-22 lenses as my regular small/light travel kit. However, AF is too slow on the M5 for moving subjects so I'm looking into "upgrading" this to an M6 II.  Until Canon releases smaller RF lenses, I plan to keep a permanent M-series kit.

My plan was to buy an M6 II + EF-EF-M adapter + viewfinder, and rent EF 100-400L II. I've used this lens on safari with my old 80D (which I've sold when downsizing). I read the M6 good/fast AF for wildlife so I hope this pairing works.  The M5 & M6 can serve as backup bodies for each other too.

I really like the RF telephoto zooms (either buy the RF 100-400 or rent RF 100-500L) but I don't have a RF body. My first/top choice was to rent/buy the R7 or R10 but can't find any in stock.

The RP was my next possible small FF choice, but I found the R/RP's AF too slow for wildlife. I'd have to look at R5/R6 but it gets bigger/heavier/pricier to rent these for 3 weeks. I've only owned Rebel/x0D series so I'm slightly intimidated by these higher end bodies too.  Too much camera to handle?

Given the nature of this trip, is the M6 option good enough (which I've never used), or should I really look to a RF setup with all their modern tech (AF, IBIS, etc.)?

Option 1:  buy M6 II + adapter + viewfinder, rent EF 100-400L II (big lens = kit no longer small/light)
Option 2:  buy RF 100-400, rent R5 or R6 (start investing in RF)
Option 3:  rent RF 100-500L and R5 or R6 (expensive ~$1k in rentals)

If voting for Option 2-3, would you rent the R5 or R6? I'd expect every one to vote R5, but is it worth the extra $200-300 rental fee?

Option 1.

The M6 II is great. 😃

I guess this is really smart advice!

Don'tgo with new and unfamiliar gear.

Maxmolly7 wrote:

I guess this is really smart advice!

I disagree.

Don'tgo with new and unfamiliar gear.

Going from M5 to M6 Mark II should NOT be unfamiliar. I had no problems going from M6 (which is almost the same camera as M5) to M6II. 😃

(But option 2 and 3, I would not recommend.)

Hello, welcome to the forum!

Sounds like a wonderful trip! I hope the crew can avoid the icebergs this time, sheesh!

I shot with an M5 for 2 years immediately following its release. A really nice little camera, but as you’ve experienced, it’s autofocus can be a bit stodgy at times to put it mildly. So I agree that a new body would be appropriate for your trip of a lifetime. The problem is your timeline though!

If you had 2 months instead of 2 weeks, I’d say go for one of the R Series cameras. I don’t have my R7 yet (bodies are delayed), but I own the R5 and R6 and like you’ve heard, I concur that they are the most capable cameras I’ve ever owned (FYI the R5 sits at the top of the heap). But it takes a LOT of time/shooting to get one of theses dialed-in for best results. Understanding the (very complex) autofocus system is the most crucial aspect. Heck I wanted to toss my R5 overboard for the first 2 months that I had it!

After almost 2 years (and over 100K pics) I’m much happier with it now though . Although yes I’m still experimenting with various settings! The R6 (and presumably R7) would present the same challenges IMHO.

Sooo, that brings us to the M6 Mark II, which I upgraded to coming up on 3 years ago now. And it’s indeed the upgrade you anticipate. I shot wildlife (mainly birds) with it plus the Canon EF 100-400L Mark II (+/- 1.4x Mark III TC) exclusively for a year. Yes it’s a heavy lens and carrying can be awkward, but it’s do-able, and shooting with it is actually no problem. Results are excellent, and the only subject I struggled with were BIFs. Here is a previous thread with some good info for you…

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4501836#forum-post-64108171

Personally (having shot extensively with both the M5 and M6ii), I don’t think you’d have a problem making the transition in the timeframe ahead. They’re very closely related. My #1 rule is to use Spot Autofocus exclusively. It’ll net you the highest number of keepers. I’d also advise shooting RAW (and processing later with DxO Photolab 5).

To help with settings, check the M6ii Tips & Tricks thread…

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4433968

Do buy it ASAP (if that’s your decision) and spend as much time as possible shooting and handling it. Buy a large Sony Tough UHS-II (M Series) SDXC card for the camera (it’ll provide max performance). Get an extra genuine Canon battery (or use yours if it’s still at max capacity), and a Wasabi or Beston 2-battery kit (with USB charger) for backup.

Shoot a ton. Holler back if you have any questions.  Have a great trip!

R2

ps. Buy the genuine Canon adapter (3rd party can introduce veiling glare).

m6II + 100-400mm sigma Contemporary

BirdShooter7 wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

Hello, welcome to the forum!

Sounds like a wonderful trip! I hope the crew can avoid the icebergs this time, sheesh!

I shot with an M5 for 2 years immediately following its release. A really nice little camera, but as you’ve experienced, it’s autofocus can be a bit stodgy at times to put it mildly. So I agree that a new body would be appropriate for your trip of a lifetime. The problem is your timeline though!

If you had 2 months instead of 2 weeks, I’d say go for one of the R Series cameras. I don’t have my R7 yet (bodies are delayed), but I own the R5 and R6 and like you’ve heard, I concur that they are the most capable cameras I’ve ever owned (FYI the R5 sits at the top of the heap). But it takes a LOT of time/shooting to get one of theses dialed-in for best results. Understanding the (very complex) autofocus system is the most crucial aspect. Heck I wanted to toss my R5 overboard for the first 2 months that I had it!

After almost 2 years (and over 100K pics) I’m much happier with it now though . Although yes I’m still experimenting with various settings! The R6 (and presumably R7) would present the same challenges IMHO.

Sooo, that brings us to the M6 Mark II, which I upgraded to coming up on 3 years ago now. And it’s indeed the upgrade you anticipate. I shot wildlife (mainly birds) with it plus the Canon EF 100-400L Mark II (+/- 1.4x Mark III TC) exclusively for a year. Yes it’s a heavy lens and carrying can be awkward, but it’s do-able, and shooting with it is actually no problem. Results are excellent, and the only subject I struggled with were BIFs. Here is a previous thread with some good info for you…

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4501836#forum-post-64108171

Personally (having shot extensively with both the M5 and M6ii), I don’t think you’d have a problem making the transition in the timeframe ahead. They’re very closely related. My #1 rule is to use Spot Autofocus exclusively. It’ll net you the highest number of keepers. I’d also advise shooting RAW (and processing later with DxO Photolab 5).

To help with settings, check the M6ii Tips & Tricks thread…

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4433968

Do buy it ASAP (if that’s your decision) and spend as much time as possible shooting and handling it. Buy a large Sony Tough UHS-II (M Series) SDXC card for the camera (it’ll provide max performance). Get an extra genuine Canon battery (or use yours if it’s still at max capacity), and a Wasabi or Beston 2-battery kit (with USB charger) for backup.

Shoot a ton. Holler back if you have any questions. Have a great trip!

R2

ps. Buy the genuine Canon adapter (3rd party can introduce veiling glare).

Evidence?

Sure:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4324738#forum-post-64795450

R2

Option 2 with R5.

Artic cruise seems like a once in a lifetime trip.

I think M system is great for having a small and capable kit, but it’s not the best for wildlife. I guess the new RF telelenses have the edge over EF glass, and the same holds true for the R vs M bodies —> so I would start investing in the R lineup. The rf100-400 is very affordable , you could rent an R5 or R6 body (as that for me quite pricy ) and later on buy an R7/R10 if you shoot wildlife more often.
if your normally not into wildlife, you could get the M6ii and an EF 100-400 second hand, which you could sell again after your trip m

check out also what is on stock !

BirdShooter7 wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

BirdShooter7 wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

ps. Buy the genuine Canon adapter (3rd party can introduce veiling glare).

Evidence?

Sure:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4324738#forum-post-64795450

R2

That’s what I thought you might be referring to and it doesn’t seem to apply to RF-EF adapters

None of the OP's options (1, 2, or 3) involved an EF to RF adapter (or vice-versa).

but instead to one specific EF-m to RF adapter.

?? EF-M to RF adapters (and vice-versa) don't exist.

And in any case it's not about just one specific adapter. You have to read the whole thread I linked to (including the OP). There were test photos submitted by the OP (Lumenite) using the Viltrox EF to EF-M adapter, myself using the Fotodiox Pro EF to EF-M adapter, plus links in that thread to others doing testing.

I’ve personally tested out four different models of RF-EF adapters and haven’t been able to reproduce this issue. I think you’re probably pretty safe using third party adapters.

That's good to know about EF to RF adapters (I've tested my Canon adapter and it's clean).

However for these M Series cameras we need to be using the  EF to EF-M  adapters. And my advice to the OP was to buy a genuine Canon OEM adapter if/when he purchases his M6ii kit.

R2

R2D2 wrote:

My #1 rule is to use Spot Autofocus exclusively. It’ll net you the highest number of keepers. I’d also advise shooting RAW (and processing later with DxO Photolab 5).

Hi R2 - not for the first time I read with interest about your #1 rule to use "Spot AF" but as my M50 did not feature that mode I didn't really pay much attention. As my M50 Mkii does have "Spot AF" I was wondering if you can tell me under what circumstances Spot AF is preferred/more effective. With the eye AF being much improved on the M50 Mk2 (vs the M50) I tend to default to that especially when it comes to people, weddings etc but as you know, my other passion is sports photography (esp. water sports) and wondered whether the "Spot AF" is the best mode for those situations?

MyM6II wrote:

Maxmolly7 wrote:

I guess this is really smart advice!

I disagree.

Don'tgo with new and unfamiliar gear.

Going from M5 to M6 Mark II should NOT be unfamiliar. I had no problems going from M6 (which is almost the same camera as M5) to M6II. 😃

(But option 2 and 3, I would not recommend.)

It took me no time at all to master M6 mk II.

Alexis wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

My #1 rule is to use Spot Autofocus exclusively. It’ll net you the highest number of keepers. I’d also advise shooting RAW (and processing later with DxO Photolab 5).

Hi R2 - not for the first time I read with interest about your #1 rule to use "Spot AF" but as my M50 did not feature that mode I didn't really pay much attention. As my M50 Mkii does have "Spot AF" I was wondering if you can tell me under what circumstances Spot AF is preferred/more effective. With the eye AF being much improved on the M50 Mk2 (vs the M50) I tend to default to that especially when it comes to people, weddings etc but as you know, my other passion is sports photography (esp. water sports) and wondered whether the "Spot AF" is the best mode for those situations?

Hi Alexis,

Every model is going to behave differently, but from what I've seen in my cameras, the Eye AF can sometimes be fooled/confused by water droplets. But the Servo AF in these cameras can be fooled as well (and historically that's been the case with DSLRs also).

So for water sports I generally rely on a fairly deep DOF and very high shutter speeds, refocusing often. I like to get close to water level whenever possible (this increases subject isolation... for the AF too).

I don't know how the M50ii's AF will respond as I don't have one, but go ahead and experiment both ways. Theoretically (if AF acquisition is fast enough), Eye AF could yield some extremely well focused shots, if the eye is clear enough.

I'd be really interested to know how the M50ii fares. Be sure to report back!

R2

Alexis wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

My #1 rule is to use Spot Autofocus exclusively. It’ll net you the highest number of keepers. I’d also advise shooting RAW (and processing later with DxO Photolab 5).

Hi R2 - not for the first time I read with interest about your #1 rule to use "Spot AF" but as my M50 did not feature that mode I didn't really pay much attention. As my M50 Mkii does have "Spot AF" I was wondering if you can tell me under what circumstances Spot AF is preferred/more effective. With the eye AF being much improved on the M50 Mk2 (vs the M50) I tend to default to that especially when it comes to people, weddings etc but as you know, my other passion is sports photography (esp. water sports) and wondered whether the "Spot AF" is the best mode for those situations?

hi Alexis,

outside -- deep dof, high ss as R2 said

for sports I use spot, BBF and a sports 70-200 lens since I get a low hit rate in sports with my 55-250 stm lens

best wishes