Z-mount lens recommendations

I'm doing research (and some buying) in anticipation of getting a Z9.   In particular I'm interested in knowing about good z-mount lenses for underwater user with a Z9.  I've already picked up the 105s macro and a 50f1.8s.    What is the wide equivalent of the 16-35 that is at least as good?  I assume the 14-30, though I wish it went to 35mm.

Are there any viable mid-range zooms?

I'm shooting 16-35 with 90mm extension and 230mm dome port.  14-30 work there too?

PHXAZCRAIG wrote:

I'm doing research (and some buying) in anticipation of getting a Z9. In particular I'm interested in knowing about good z-mount lenses for underwater user with a Z9. I've already picked up the 105s macro and a 50f1.8s. What is the wide equivalent of the 16-35 that is at least as good? I assume the 14-30, though I wish it went to 35mm.

Are there any viable mid-range zooms?

I'm shooting 16-35 with 90mm extension and 230mm dome port. 14-30 work there too?

Hi Craig,

I cannot say much to the Nikon system, but here is a link to the Nauticam port chart: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SnmaezzkwwVazzkjz0IHwvm8aNurnSbe/view

=> The 14-30 is recommended with 50mm extension and the 230 dome.

=> of interest may also be the Sony 28-60 with adapter and WACP1 (or WWL-1)...

Wolfgang

So... it looks like my old 105vr macro port (87) isn't the right one for the 105s (80).  Sigh.  At least the 230mm dome port is still usable.    I'm intrigued by any mention of any normal zoom range at this point.   I've missed the focal lengths between 35mm dome and 105mm flat port!  I'm thinking maybe 24-70f4 behind the 230mm?

Be nice to get the camera...

PHXAZCRAIG wrote:

So... it looks like my old 105vr macro port (87) isn't the right one for the 105s (80). Sigh. At least the 230mm dome port is still usable. I'm intrigued by any mention of any normal zoom range at this point. I've missed the focal lengths between 35mm dome and 105mm flat port! I'm thinking maybe 24-70f4 behind the 230mm?

Be nice to get the camera...

=> You can check, whether the old port fits by diameter and is able to house the lens. If yes the old port is just 7mm to long. This will reduce the distance from object to front of the port by 7mm (and the port window has to be extra clean, since speckles may soften the image more compared to be closer to the lens). On the other side, the port chart says that the working distance, even with CMC-2 is 22-38mm (= closest working distance since maximum magnification)) - in your case with the old port this would be reduced to to 15-31mm (but I am not sure how much the closeup lens is impaired when not closest to the front of the lens - this has to be tested also))...

=> theoretically the 24-70 will perform better behind the 230 port than behind the (recommended) 180 port. The 180 port is just easier to transport and to drag through the water. I guess you will take with you the 230 port anyway, because of the WA lens. Taking an additional 180 port for the 24-70 is more stuff to carry and check-in, maybe it is better to travel just with the 230...

Wolfgang

P.S.: I read you response to my question in Wetpixel (whether next camera will be DX or FX): ...

I am in a similar situation: I will retire this October and on this occasion I plan to upgrade from MFT to FF. With 66 I still feel young and strong and hardly understand why some are so whiny about carrying around UW camera gear...

I'm not sure there is a focus gear available for the 24-70, either version.  But I would dearly love to be able to shoot that lens behind the 230mm dome than the 16-35.

As for macro port, considering the astonishing upgrade cost (5500 for the camera, 7300 for the housing, plus it sounds like I'll need a new viewfinder for mirrorless, new lenses), buying another $400 port isn't that significant.

I'm choking on $2300 strobes and $1800 video lights though.

kelpdiver wrote:

As for $1800 strobes...the boutique offerings are shiny, but I don't think essential. Same for $2400 video lights.

Talking replacements for old YS-250's here, and these were definitely big bright lights.  (Also, $2400 strobes, $1800 video lights)   The divers using them were lighting up large sites like wrecks.   Oh, there were also the remote controlled ones, for caves and the like.

One guy had 2000 dives on his YS-250's.   He couldn't wait until the Isotta Red64 came out!

There was some interesting stuff shown at the Shootout.  I hope they have good coverage of it posted eventually with some of the award-winning shots.

I agree - rather have the exotic lens than the big strobes.   But the big strobe guys also like not have to change batteries after every dive the way I do with my YS-D1's.

I'm probably heading back to Roatan Aug 27.   This time I'll be shooting the Backscatter miniflash with snoot, so I can revisit some otherwise boring subjects.   And hopefully get better at lining it up.

I've been furiously upgrading things, including both camera and dive equipment.  It's remotely possible I will have a Z9 underwater rig by then, if my Z9 gets delivered well ahead of time.  I bought a slew of z-mount lenses on sale this weekend.

I'd like to add some sort of tripod legs.   Naturally they seem very expensive - $400 for a tray and $220 for each leg.  Assume that doesn't include a clamp either.  Sigh.  If I can get something going, I'll try for some macro video.

My strobe usage is likely to change dramatically after the Digital Shootout.   Before I was mostly putting strobes at 45 degrees and firing at half power, sometimes full, rarely less.  (For macro, at F22 and ISO 64).

For wide angle I've been shooting less strobe and more ambient, and all ambient for video.

I would tend to run low on power most of the way through a second dive, so I just change batteries every dive on the strobe and usually the focus light too if I used it.

The typical schedule I dive has me starting with charged batteries in strobe and focus light and a change for each.   At lunch break I charge 8 AA's and the focus light for about 1.5 hours, then reload the strobes and focus light for the afternoon dive.   If I were to dive 4 times a day I'd need one more set of batteries.

Now I'll be diving a lot with a Backscatter miniflash, and that strobe has two good-sized 18160 batteries.    When using it I typically will not be using my other (YS-D1) strobe, so may not need AA's at all.    When doing wide angle I'll be selective in what I try to light and do a lot of ambient white balancing instead.

My Z9 is due to arrive tomorrow!   I have both the 14-30 and 105s lenses, and 5 more weeks before leaving on the next dive trip.

But... my wallet is flattening dramatically.   I'm trying to decide what I want, versus what I need.  And what I can reuse.

I obviously need a new (Nauticam) housing, but..

-do I need a new vacuum leak valve and pump, or can I simply move the one from my D850 housing?  I can't imagine a scenario where I will have both housings with me at the same time.

-do I need a new viewfinder?   It sounds like I cannot transplant my 180 degree viewfinder which worked on my D810 and D850 housings.  I can of course use the housing as-is, but I've never done that on my D810/D850 housings so don't know what to expect there.  I'm inclined to go for a 45 degree finder, but the price has me choking at the moment.

-do I need a new macro port?  It sounds like it, for the cost of another $750.

-what extension for the 230mm dome port for the 14-30?  50mm?  Sigh, cost up there too.

-and I just realized I need a zoom gear for the 14-30.  No idea on the price yet.

Just played with the camera and all the Z lenses I have.   I only hope it can track little fish like my cat's eyes!   I see what they mean about the Z9 and subject detection.  I also see how hard that is to override sometimes.   Lot to learn there.

Housings:  I like Nauticam, and the main part that transfers is the 230mm Nauticam dome port.  I only need a 50mm extension there, plus that zoom gear.   And, now that I think about it, probably a Sea and Sea Internal Correction Lens.   My 77mm one won't transfer to the 82mm 14-30.

Macro is a whole new port, unless I want issues with a too-long port.

The viewfinder - apparently there are mirrorless and DSLR viewfinder versions, which is certainly disappointing.  I used my 180 on my D810 rig for years before moving it to the D850 housing.  I have no idea why they would be different.

Leak detector.  I've had two kinds with two housings, but at least they both used the same pump.  I've also seen a Backscatter leak detector that was quite different and used a different pump (with gauge).

I don't think I'm going to have any battery issues while diving unless I'm doing video the whole time.   The battery is supposed to last about 3 hours under continuous use, far more for normal image shooting.  (I've been reading Thom Hogan's book on the Z9)

Now that i have camera in hand, I think I have to bite the financial bullet and get it underwater ASAP, meaning 5 weeks from now.   This is one of those decisions being driven in part by my age, and wanting to get as much underwater use out of my gear as I can while I am still able to lug this stuff around.

PHXAZCRAIG wrote:

The viewfinder - apparently there are mirrorless and DSLR viewfinder versions, which is certainly disappointing. I used my 180 on my D810 rig for years before moving it to the D850 housing. I have no idea why they would be different.

The EVF in mirrorless cameras typically requires a wider field of view. I believe you can mount your DSLR viewfinder on a mirrorless housing, but you may not be able to see the entire EVF and/or you may need to move your eye around to see into sides and corners.

Barmaglot_07 wrote:

PHXAZCRAIG wrote:

The viewfinder - apparently there are mirrorless and DSLR viewfinder versions, which is certainly disappointing. I used my 180 on my D810 rig for years before moving it to the D850 housing. I have no idea why they would be different.

The EVF in mirrorless cameras typically requires a wider field of view. I believe you can mount your DSLR viewfinder on a mirrorless housing, but you may not be able to see the entire EVF and/or you may need to move your eye around to see into sides and corners.

Last night I broke down and ordered a whole Nauticam rig.  I bought the 0.8x 45 degree viewfinder, and if my 180 will work, I can try it out and see before possibly ordering a ML version.  At $1800 I'm inclined to stick with the 45, though I already know it's a bit of an issue for flipping the camera to portrait mode quickly.

I have the viewfinder display size set to 'Small' on the Z9, which helps me, as an eyeglass wearer, to see the edges.   If there isn't an interference fit issue with the old 180, it could be viable.

I hope everything arrives in time for me to take it to Roatan in late August.