Some Bonaire pics

I confess I simply don't use a compass.   I do have one on my Suunto, plus had one on the previous Suunto.  Kind of forgot how to use them.  I do know the new one seems to want to be calibrated an awful lot.

I generally follow a divemaster.

kelpdiver wrote:

Falcon04 wrote:

Ahead of my next trip (December), I'm also wanting to invest in some U/W photo/video gear. I'm kinda indecisive at this moment, due to having an Oly E-M10.2... being an older camera, its hard to find housings for it that aren't astronomically expensive at the moment, due to being a discontinued product.

how many UW suitable lenses do you have for the 4/3 system? People use the 8mm (either brand), the 60mm macro, and one of the 7-14s most commonly, with the first two being the bread and butter.

If you don't have these, then I think you're probably better off investing the money in a APC or FF line rather than the M43. The IQ is a bit better, and there is still a future, whereas 43 is essentially dead. Panasonic did release the GH6 recently, but it costs a pretty penny and the housings aren't cheap. It's not worth spending the money for a housing and ports and lenses for it.

OTOH, you can get used systems pretty cheaply. So much so that I'm just going to keep my GH4 system as a lender, as I don't think anyone wants to pay enough for me to give them up. If you already have the lenses, then I'd look for a used 43 cam + housing + port deal.

Used also works great for the Sony/Canon/Nikons. And you can look at the 1" compacts - these are travel friendly and still represent decent quality over the gopros.

A lot of it comes down to how much luggage space you want to give it, and how many $$.

I don't have any of those lenses. The widest I have currently is the Oly 12mm f/2.0. I've considered the switch to APC in months past, just a matter of waiting for cameras to become available again given the world-wide chip shortage (used notwithstanding).

Years ago, I had an Olympus Stylus 860 and U/W housing that suited me well. The camera died, bought a used one, which also died. Not being a pro-level U/W photographer, the wise move may be following your suggestion and giving a hard look at the 1" compacts.

As I'm looking at those, I think I'm still going to invest in the GoPro U/W housing for my Hero 9, since its only $50.

kelpdiver wrote:

Falcon04 wrote:

As I'm looking at those, I think I'm still going to invest in the GoPro U/W housing for my Hero 9, since its only $50.

sane starting path. And yes, get the official go pro one. The cost savings for the $20 options on Amazon seem short sided when the thing floods. Also, many of the add ons like Backscatter's filters and close up lens are built to fit the GoPro housing.

Yes, that’s what I’ve done. Just ordered the official housing last evening. I’ve been doing a lot of research on Backscatter’s offerings as well.

Architeuthis wrote:

Hi Craig,

Beautiful images. Snooting, B&W, squid, silouettes, selfie - exciting, congratulations...

Which snoot are you using and how do you get along with it (easy?)?

Sorry for late reply.  Just noticed the question on the snoot.

How did I get along?  Hmm.   Let me just say that it is frustrating in the extreme - at first - to get a shot with it properly lined up.   I'm guessing it would be the same with any snoot.   This particular snoot is sold as an accessory to the Backscatter Miniflash.   The snoot includes a pair of plastic inserts with a series of ever-bigger holes in one and ovals in the other.   You slide them back and forth to get the hole size you want, which controls the size and shape of the snooted light spot.

Here is why it is frustrating at first, though you get the hang of it with practice.

First, you have to set the flash/snoot up to point to a very particular spot.    Let's say you are hovering over a white sand bottom to set up the snoot and position the flash.   You turn on the miniflash focus light, which shows you where the light is hitting.

First, I generally put the strobe as far in front of the lens as the arms allow, pointing straight down.   I want distance from the rest of the rig so as to have a slightly better chance of getting close to skittish subjects.  Currently I'm using two 8-inch arms, and the strobe is barely within my reach.

Second, I work on horizontal positioning (left/right compared to the lens.)   My mounting ball is on one of the handles, so the whole arm is coming over to the lens at an angle.   I need to get it lined up with the lens and straight up and down.  Right off, the focus spot will be a bit to the left or right, and it needs to be quite exact when shooting 105mm.

Third, you have to now set the vertical position of the strobe, in relation to the lens.   You would think this wouldn't matter so much, but it does.   You have only a couple of inches, maybe, for the flash (whole camera) to move up and down and be in the correct range.   The snoot basically has a focus distance where it works.   Too close, and the snooted circle of light becomes too small, or you get too close to the subject and scare it (or even touch it).

The focus light at the proper height above the subject will through a nice circle (or oval) on the white sand.    Too high and the circle becomes two circles due to the optics in the strobe.    What you need to do is line that circle up so that when at the proper height, the light circle it throws is right in the middle of the viewfinder.   I think that height is around 6-8 inches.

Now you have the strobe lined up horizontally and vertically to the center of your viewfinder.  You lock it down there, and go find subjects to match.  Christmas Tree Worms are an excellent subject as they usually let you get everything in position before they flee.  Fish - much much harder.   You approach your subject slowly, getting at either the right distance or the right height.   I generally approach from the desired height and move in as opposed to trying to drop down on the subject.

As you move in, you watch the focus light on the strobe approach and then line up on the subject.  You make vertical adjustments to get the lit circle just right and press the shutter release.   At this point most CTWs will pull in, so you only get one attempt.

That is the biggest problem I have - getting the tip of the snoot within about 6 inches of the subject.   Now I only tried this with the largest of the spot choices (plastic sleeve of holes you push through the snoot.)   It strikes me now that had I used the smallest hole choice, I would not have simply had a smaller lit circle, I could instead of moved the strobe farther away... (and cranked up the strobe power a bit more).

If I could position the snoot 12 inches from subjects instead of 6, I could approach a lot more subjects successfully.

Anyway, once you get used to the exact distance and height from the subjects for your strobe position, you simply swim into that position on other subjects and watch the lit circle come into view and settled on the desired location.   Until then it is frustrating as you approach too high and can't even find the lit circle in the viewfinder.

kelpdiver wrote:

Which brings me to fins. I'm still using the original fins I bought in 2006 (Apollo Bio-Fin Pro) split fins. I think I was the only diver there using them. I love them for going forward, but they are poor at backing up. And they are so heavy they are the limiting factor on my buoyancy control. Probably why I only need 8 pounds of weight in a 3 mil - the fins weigh 8 pounds total. I've purchased a new set of fins which haven't arrived yet, but which have good all around performance and only weight 4 pounds.

Split fin hatred aside, the main complaint I have for them is the inability to do fine position control. I'm looking to the current gen plastic remakes of the Jetfins which also suffer from the weight. Yes, this means more on the belt, but less in the checked luggage.

I was rereading this thread and thought about my fin change.

When I got the new fins, I also got a new wetsuit and hood, plus had the new Z9 as well - lots of learning tasks competing for my attention.  It was somewhat of a frustrating first week getting used to everything.

The new wetsuit and fins completely upset my buoyancy and weighting.  At first I was drastically underweighted,   I did a quick check-out shore dive, but my guy didn't bring me the weights I asked for (four 2's and four 3's so I could mix and match.)  He brought me 10 pounds, which at least was two more than my usual weight for the past 10 years.

On that checkout dive I scratched up one hand pretty good holding onto coral trying to stay down.  I tried 12 pounds and that wasn't enough so I went with 14.

Well, as you probably already know, it takes a bit to get all the trapped air out of a new wetsuit.  After a few days I was feeling well overweighted and dropped to 12.   The next day I dropped to 10 and stayed there.

While getting the weights right, I had to relearn my trimming techniques as well as finning techniques.   I found myself hovering over some subject with my legs bent 90 degrees and fins high - this position prevented me from adjusting in several ways.   I had become so used to having all that weight from my Apollo fins that I was subconsciously counting on them to pivot my feet down.

Ultimately I got used to them, and they felt almost as good in a straight line as the Apollos, but of course far different for backing up and holding station.   And once I got used to the trim/lack of weight, my buoyancy skills ratcheted up nicely.  I can finally simply hover motionless horizontally.   Never could do that with heavy fins.

And the weight.  In the water my new fins are basically neutral.  The old ones weighed a pound each (under salt water).   My new weight is 10 pounds, with the new 3 mil and hood, but I save a noticeable amount in the suitcase over the Apollos.

In rereading this thread, I've also started thinking again about a wing back.  Mostly because of the comment about having less drag.   The camera gear adds a lot, and the new fins aren't quite as good against current, so another drag reduction would be welcome.   But my new wetsuit has a relief zipper, and I love it.   Wouldn't want a strap in there.