Macro with NiSi lens

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Thomas166
Thomas166 Contributing Member • Posts: 521
Macro with NiSi lens
1

Trying out my new NiSi Close Up Lens. I have a foldable Lumpna Flash Diffuser that I use with it too. These are my first ones so I know I need to get better at the sharpness and settings. I think I'll try RAW on my next trip.

 Thomas166's gear list:Thomas166's gear list
Nikon Coolpix P950 Nikon D5500 Tamron AF 18-270mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC LD Aspherical (IF) MACRO Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 70-300mm 1:4.0-5.6 Tamron SP AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF)
DAP MV
DAP MV Contributing Member • Posts: 880
Re: Macro with NiSi lens

Very nice, especially the first one.

A word of advice: in situation like in the second picture, focus on the eye. You can narrow down the focus area in the frame from the menu. Then, in most cases, the not-so-sharp farther parts of the body will look “natural”. (Not my original idea. You can find it in almost every book about wildlife photography. 😄)

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Darius
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Many people photograph birds. Not many people photograph spiders.
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sherman_levine
MOD sherman_levine Forum Pro • Posts: 13,630
Re: Macro with NiSi lens
1

Pretty much the same comment I made in your earlier thread https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4634747

Diopter lenses in general don't add much when you use them with the camera at wide angle, because the camera can already get quite close to the subject.

A +1 lens will let you get the lens about 1 meter from the subject, even at full zoom,  A +2 lens will let you get to 1/2 meter, etc.

The NiSi is +3 so your working distance (with the camera set to infinity) is about 1/3 meter

The field of view is very shallow, so it's sometimes easier to put the camera in MF mode and move the camera to get focus.

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Thomas166
OP Thomas166 Contributing Member • Posts: 521
Re: Macro with NiSi lens

DAP MV wrote:

Very nice, especially the first one.

A word of advice: in situation like in the second picture, focus on the eye. You can narrow down the focus area in the frame from the menu. Then, in most cases, the not-so-sharp farther parts of the body will look “natural”. (Not my original idea. You can find it in almost every book about wildlife photography. 😄)

Thanks, I'll do that on my next trip.

 Thomas166's gear list:Thomas166's gear list
Nikon Coolpix P950 Nikon D5500 Tamron AF 18-270mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC LD Aspherical (IF) MACRO Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 70-300mm 1:4.0-5.6 Tamron SP AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF)
Thomas166
OP Thomas166 Contributing Member • Posts: 521
Re: Macro with NiSi lens

sherman_levine wrote:

Pretty much the same comment I made in your earlier thread https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4634747

Diopter lenses in general don't add much when you use them with the camera at wide angle, because the camera can already get quite close to the subject.

A +1 lens will let you get the lens about 1 meter from the subject, even at full zoom, A +2 lens will let you get to 1/2 meter, etc.

The NiSi is +3 so your working distance (with the camera set to infinity) is about 1/3 meter

The field of view is very shallow, so it's sometimes easier to put the camera in MF mode and move the camera to get focus.

Thanks for the comment. I really need to keep the camera in MF when doing macro.

 Thomas166's gear list:Thomas166's gear list
Nikon Coolpix P950 Nikon D5500 Tamron AF 18-270mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC LD Aspherical (IF) MACRO Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 70-300mm 1:4.0-5.6 Tamron SP AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF)
DAP MV
DAP MV Contributing Member • Posts: 880
Re: Macro with NiSi lens

Thomas166 wrote:

sherman_levine wrote:

The field of view is very shallow, so it's sometimes easier to put the camera in MF mode and move the camera to get focus.

Thanks for the comment. I really need to keep the camera in MF when doing macro.

From my experience, adjusting focus by changing camera position in respect to the subject is a must, but you can do it in autofocus mode, too. 
I have autofocus set such that it continuously adjusts itself. During taking the picture I set the focal length such that the object is properly framed (which depends on the size of the object) at the same time moving the position of the camera so the image is sharp. Then I press the shutter button half way down, and it usually locks sharp. While the button is pressed halfway down I can still make some minor focus corrections by moving the camera, and then I press the button all the way down to take a picture. 
Of course it all depends on personal preferences. Choose whatever is most convenient for you and what yields the best results.

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Darius
--
Many people photograph birds. Not many people photograph spiders.
I photograph spiders. I'm a photo-minority...

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