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6'' vs 8'' dome

Started Feb 28, 2022 | Discussions
stillviking Regular Member • Posts: 125
6'' vs 8'' dome

Good morning underwater photographer friends.

I recently got a new Canon RF 14-35mm and wanted to use at 14mm underwater.

I need to buy a dome, having the 6'' and 8'' options. The 6'' is cheaper and much easier to carry on a trip because it's small.

Will I notice a difference in the image quality, especially in the corners of the photo? What's your experience?

Thank you very much for your attention!

kelpdiver Veteran Member • Posts: 5,564
Re: 6'' vs 8'' dome

stillviking wrote:

Good morning underwater photographer friends.

I recently got a new Canon RF 14-35mm and wanted to use at 14mm underwater.

I need to buy a dome, having the 6'' and 8'' options. The 6'' is cheaper and much easier to carry on a trip because it's small.

Will I notice a difference in the image quality, especially in the corners of the photo? What's your experience?

Thank you very much for your attention!

given how new the lens is, you probably won't find a lot of experience to answer that question well.

I do have the lens, and I took it to Palau in October, but Nauticam was a month too late getting the zoom gear to me, so I had to preselect the FL for each dive.  Not surprisingly, I spent a lot more time using the 8-15.

I am using S&S AR210 lens as the most travel attractive option for both the 815 and the 1435.   It is considerably lighter/cheaper than the glass 230 options and it would be difficult to see a real different optically per Backscatter.   Getting the right (good enough) port extension is also key here - I was able to use the same 50 extension for both the fisheye on a 1.4x and the rectalinear.

Is this lens in addition to the 8-15?   If as wide as possible is key, then that lens is the better choice (can go to 140mm on dome), with the obvious caveats.  Part of my interest was the ability to do little critters at 35mm.

Traditionally rectalinear lenses want as big a dome as you're willing to haul.   Nauticam does list the 180mm glass port (7") as suitable, while Aquatica only goes as small as the 8.5" Acrylic.   It's possible that with a 6", you'll see the shade covers at 14.

What housing would this be for?   Did you get it from one of the major players like BS, Blue Water, Reefphoto?   All of them can advise with better knowledge on the combos.

I bought Nauticam's port cover/luggage for their 230 and this makes packing easier, but I'm forced to check it in, along with the macro port.  The camera/housing I carry as my personal carry on piece, and the lenses and strobes go into my thinktank roller carry-on.

OP stillviking Regular Member • Posts: 125
Re: 6'' vs 8'' dome

Yes, it is pretty new that's why I was interested if anyone tested it underwater!

I don't own the 8-15 mm, that is my wider lens! So I was planning to use at 14 mm!

I have a "surfing housing" only to go until 10 meters, I can buy a dome but don't know if 6'' will make me soft corners!

kelpdiver Veteran Member • Posts: 5,564
Re: 6'' vs 8'' dome

and what are your intended subjects?   Will it be surfers and waves, primarily?

Most UW photographers use the fisheye more of the time, and the captured image is much wider than is possible with the 15-35 class of wide angles.  But I don't think that would be right for surf photography.

Are you going to be using strobes or natural light?

Do you have a zoom gear, or would you just be setting it to the wide setting?

Over/unders are also easier with an 8 or 9 than a 6, and very difficult with a 4.

Also as I mentioned, it's important to get the distance between the lens and the dome correct, so that the edges aren't badly impacted.   The housing maker is the starting authority here.

OP stillviking Regular Member • Posts: 125
Re: 6'' vs 8'' dome

I already have a surf setup (flat ports and some primes), now I want to addto it the dome for underwater shoots (people, dolphins, turtles, etc.).

I will only use natural light. No zoom gear in my waterhouse. I really don't need over/unders, planning to shoot all underwater.

I read the important in distance between lens and dome is to the lens be very close to dome acrylic, almost touching, correct?

Barmaglot_07 Contributing Member • Posts: 633
Re: 6'' vs 8'' dome

stillviking wrote:

I read the important in distance between lens and dome is to the lens be very close to dome acrylic, almost touching, correct?

No, quite the opposite. The lenses entrance pupil must be as close as possible to the dome's geometric center. The purpose of the dome is to have all light entering the lens pass through the water/glass/air boundary at an angle as close to perpendicular as possible, minimizing refraction.

 Barmaglot_07's gear list:Barmaglot_07's gear list
Sony a6300 Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM Sony E 30mm F3.5 Macro Sony E 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 OSS LE Sony E 10-18mm F4 OSS +5 more
OP stillviking Regular Member • Posts: 125
Re: 6'' vs 8'' dome

Wow, I was totally wrong. Thanks!

So should we move the lens away from the dome glass as far as possible? Is this valid for fisheyes and rectilinear wideangles?

Barmaglot_07 Contributing Member • Posts: 633
Re: 6'' vs 8'' dome

stillviking wrote:

Wow, I was totally wrong. Thanks!

So should we move the lens away from the dome glass as far as possible? Is this valid for fisheyes and rectilinear wideangles?

No. If you're looking for a rule that's hard, fast, and easy to follow, there isn't one.

For one thing, not all domes are created equal. In general, there are two types of domes - fisheye and wide-angle, although they might not be labeled as such. Fisheye domes are typically hemispherical, i.e. a complete, 180-degree half of a sphere, and an 8-inch dome will have a radius of 4 inches. Wide-angle domes generally use a shallower cut, i.e. an 8-inch dome may be a segment of a sphere with a radius of, say, six inches. This is advantageous for rectilinear wide-angle lenses as they need as large a radius of a dome as possible for better corner performance, and they don't need a complete 180 degree arc as their field of view doesn't go beyond 110-120 degrees or so.

On the camera side of things, remember that what matters for positioning is the lenses entrance pupil, not the front element. Where this pupil is located is dependent on lens construction, and may not be marked or disclosed by the manufacturer.

Your best option is to follow the manufacturer's guidelines, if they have any. Nauticam and other serious manufacturers have specialized testing rigs where the camera is mounted on rails above a test tank and moved incrementally back and forth until optimal positioning is achieved with a specific lens and dome; this finding is published in their port charts. If your housing manufacturer does not have a recommendation for a certain lens, but has it for other lenses that are broadly similar, you can work out something approximate based on differences in setups suggested for those lenses in Nauticam's port charts, as those tend to be the most comprehensive.

 Barmaglot_07's gear list:Barmaglot_07's gear list
Sony a6300 Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM Sony E 30mm F3.5 Macro Sony E 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 OSS LE Sony E 10-18mm F4 OSS +5 more
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