In praise of the lowly Olympus 75-300mm

Mait wrote:

Henry Falkner wrote:

plantdoc wrote:

To obtain decent result with my copy, I need to keep the shutter speed up to 1/750 or faster unless using a monopod with my Oly m1 mk2. Stopping down a bit also helps. I have discovered that even with a very fast shutter speed, the shutter release must be very light and not when there is a last second jiggle. Slightly soft pics can be vastly improved with Topaz Sharpen AI to the point where I no longer want to invest in more expensive optics. Note, this program is very slow unless powered by a near gaming PC, especially the GPU.

Greg

If you can anticipate where moving subjects will be, a 2 second shutter delay can help to reduce camera movement.

Henry

You just have to use electronic shutter with this lens. I mean, why wouldnt you.

I always use the electronic shutter with my EM10 Mark 2 for an extended shutter life.

GinaRothfels wrote:

Henry Falkner wrote:

I am using the 75-300 with both my E-M10 II and E-M10 IV on a tripod mount using the camera body fixture. The slightest wind causes the shakes at the 300mm end.

I have been unable to find a bracket that fits on the body at one end and a lens support at the other to suit the 75-300 lens in particular.

There are such mounts for other long lenses, some even come with a built-in tripod mount.

I dread the day when I find I can't stop shaking. It will be the end of my photography.

Henry

I hate using a tripod and certainly can't see myself using one for shooting birds, so I guess this isn't the lens for me.

You don't need a tripod with this lens.

Henry Falkner wrote:

I am using the 75-300 with both my E-M10 II and E-M10 IV on a tripod mount using the camera body fixture. The slightest wind causes the shakes at the 300mm end.

I have been unable to find a bracket that fits on the body at one end and a lens support at the other to suit the 75-300 lens in particular.

There are such mounts for other long lenses, some even come with a built-in tripod mount.

I dread the day when I find I can't stop shaking. It will be the end of my photography.

Henry

You don't need a tripod with this lens.  If you find that you cant stop shaking, there are a couple of possible solutions.  Lay the camera on a flat surface and either shoot with a timer or a remote (or use your cellphone as a remote trigger).

GinaRothfels wrote:

NZ Scott wrote:

GinaRothfels wrote:

I nearly bought a used copy of the Olympus 75-300mm today, but I found it impossible to control the camera shake at 300mm (I have extremely shaky hands and they were really bad this afternoon). No doubt the fact that I was using an ancient OM-D E-M5 (mark I) didn't help.

I ended up buying a used 17mm f1.8 instead.

Nice - the 17/1.8 is a lovely little lens.

I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

I hope I do, but it won't help me with bird photography.

As the only Olympus lenses I've ever owned were the 12-50mm kit lens and version 1 of the 40-150mm, I guess this is a commitment to upgrading my camera, which I've hardly used since buying into the Canon M mount.

Once I've got a better camera, I may have another look at the 70-300 as I'd like a long lens for shooting the birds in my garden. I'm currently using the Canon EF-S 55-250mm on my M60 mark II but thought IBIS might give me better results than the stabilisation in that lens.

Lay the camera on a flat surface if you can't stop shaking and use the timer or a remote trigger (like your cellphone) take the pictures.

MiguelATF wrote:

I recently acquired my 2nd version of this 'lowly' (since it's only 'Consumer grade' and not 'Professional') telephoto zoom, which is relatively affordably priced, especially used copies, as opposed to the definitely superb but heavier 'Pro' zooms, from both Olympus and PanaLeica, but I have been surprised by the quality and usability of the images it makes. Including this urban documentary shot (uncropped, using the full frame) --

taken in downtown Medford, Oregon

And this lightly cropped shot of one of my rural neighbors, an American Kestrel, near my house in southern Oregon--

taken at the supposedly 'softer' telephoto end of the zoom

It's light enough to not weigh a person down on a long walk or hike; the only disadvantage being that it's harder to keep a lens this light as steady as some heavier lenses. But if you can live with the slower apertures, the plastic construction and the lack of weather sealing, it seems like a rather fine and affordable piece of glass.

"I photograph to find out what something will look like photographed."
~Garry Winogrand~
https://migueltejadafloresphotos.wordpress.com/
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/migueltejadaflores/
Blog: http://migueltejadaflores.wordpress.com

At the wide end it is just as sharp and resolves just as much detail as the 75mm f/1.8 or the 45mm f/1.8 (adjusted for focal length of course) while the latter two show more false color and need to be stopped down to f/2.8-f/4 for best results, the 75-300 is fine wide open at the wide end.  At the long end it is very sharp up to 250mm (over 2000mm lph), you do need to stop it down to f/8 for best results at the long end.

UrbanHobbit wrote:

Quite well, actually. Both my E-M1 II's were bought here in Japan, used. The first was pretty worn, but I knew that from the photos the seller provided on Amazon. (My understanding is that most big used camera sellers on Amazon Japan are local physical retail shops that are reusing photos and descriptions from listings on their own site. I avoid very new sellers or those that have completed fewer than say 100 transactions.) Sellers generally don't include shutter counts in their listings, so that's always a gamble. This one came to me with 30,000 shutter actuations, which I thought was fair for US$500. It's been trouble-free except for the well-known issue of the front grip coming off. I replaced it with a 3D-printed plastic insert from a fellow poster here – I think he is based in Australia. I should mention that this one came with its original box.

My second body was in like-new condition and cost me US$511. That one had only 4,679 shutter pulls! No box, though.

In general I think Japanese camera owners tend to be a bit more careful with their gear, perhaps a cultural thing. The two other cameras I purchased within the past couple of years (a GM5 and a Stylus 1) were on eBay and came from the US. I feel I got prices that were within my general budget-minded preferences – same as for the E-M1 II's purchased here in Japan. But, in the case of the GM5, it came with a moderate dent in the top plate that the seller did not disclose, and that the listing photos did not reveal. The Stylus 1 came with substantial grease or other gunk in the EVF optics that required partial disassembly to clean; in that case the seller was very apologetic and even offered to exchange for a different Stylus 1 at no charge. In both cases it wasn't worth doing the return thing, so I just did my best and enjoyed the cameras anyway. I won't be buying any more camera bodies on eBay from US sellers, though.

Ah, come to think of it, I did purchase a Canon M5 when I first began my mirrorless camera journey. That was also here in Japan. Came in a box, looked like new, great price. That was the experience that really opened my eyes to how "Good" listings in Japan are often closer to "Very Good" and sometimes "Like New". The thing I should have mentioned before is that here in Japan (land of no product returns), Amazon Japan is the one place where returns are generally accepted without question.

Oh, and related to your firmware comment – yes, some brands will not offer the English language for copies made for Japan. Sony is one of them, which is kind of a big disappointment, since I was thinking I should buy a Sony camera before I leave here. The funny thing is that last month I saw a GM5 on Amazon Japan that was being sold for less because it was a US model and didn't have the Japanese language menus! (Never had a problem with Olympus cameras, which always have the English option, and many other languages besides.)

Can't the Japanese language firmware thing be wiped away with a firmware change?

I don't buy Japan bodies here in NY, I am just worried about damage during the long trip.  I make sure I buy bodies with a low shutter count (around 1,000 or less) and good condition lenses.  So far (knock on wood) I've not been disappointed.

NZ Scott wrote:

UrbanHobbit wrote:

I live in Japan and have benefited from the price differential many times. (None of my MFT gear in my list was bought new.)

How do you get on with camera bodies?

A lot of the bodies sold in Japan have Japanese language firmware, with no option to choose English.

This nearly caught me out a couple of weeks ago, when I was looking to buy a GM5. It was lucky I asked…

S

Locals here seem to treat their gear very well. I usually buy on Amazon Japan, where the used prices often provide good deals, although prices do fluctuate. Products rated Good are sometimes in Like New condition, just missing the original box, which I do not mind. About a year ago I did a big purge and sold many lenses and a couple of old camera bodies to a walk-in shop. I wound up getting back about 50% on my MFT gear, which – since I’d got used for relatively cheap anyway – I thought was a fair price to pay for what amounted to an educational long-term rental for starter-level stuff.

More to answer your question: the camera market here seems to be more active here than in other places I’ve lived (US, mostly). For example, I see many more women, of all ages, with system cameras here. I feel that there are just far more camera owners cycling through gear, and that some aspects of marketing (special editions, different color bodies) are driven more by fashion trends than by technical specifications. Additionally, there is no general return policy in Japanese retail. You bought it, you bought it (unless there’s some actual product defect). All this seems to conspire to create a robust used market for people like me, who don’t mind owning second-hand.

If you do buy from Japan, one new variable may be the mention of fungus in lens listings. Much of Japan experiences very humid summers, and fungus thrives in humid environments. In my experience, sellers are always very up-front about it. I have never received an MFT lens with fungus on it.

Can't the Japanese language firmware thing be wiped away with a firmware change?

I don't buy Japan bodies here in NY, I am just worried about damage during the long trip. I make sure I buy bodies with a low shutter count (around 1,000 or less) and good condition lenses. So far (knock on wood) I've not been disappointed.

GinaRothfels wrote:

3dpan wrote:

GinaRothfels wrote:

Henry Falkner wrote:

I am using the 75-300 with both my E-M10 II and E-M10 IV on a tripod mount using the camera body fixture. The slightest wind causes the shakes at the 300mm end.

I have been unable to find a bracket that fits on the body at one end and a lens support at the other to suit the 75-300 lens in particular.

There are such mounts for other long lenses, some even come with a built-in tripod mount.

I dread the day when I find I can't stop shaking. It will be the end of my photography.

Henry

I hate using a tripod and certainly can't see myself using one for shooting birds, so I guess this isn't the lens for me.

Have you tried a monopod ?

I have, but I don't find it very helpful, especially for birds which are high in the trees or on my roof.

The monopod does not have to be fully extended or vertical for a light load. You can rest it at an angle on a stump or wall.

1/250th is my normal setting for the 75-300. I can get reliable shots a bit slower. The IBIS seems to be useful for about 2 stops at 300mm.

I detect an awful lot of skill and a very good eye. I love these shots.

OutsideTheMatrix wrote:

I was considering getting a second EM10 Mark 2 as back up to my primary since that one gets so much use! Even though I always use it in electronic shutter mode do you still think it would be a good idea to get a second one? I don't think the electronic shutter ever experiences any wear (knock on wood of course.) I have an extra lens I could put on the back up if I get it.

Hello,

I love my M-10 II but when the time comes for a replacement, I will not stay with the M-10 line. The M-5 II would be a better option I think if you want a partner for your M-10 II.

I will move to a M-1 II or III when the time comes.

tomhongkong wrote:

OutsideTheMatrix wrote:

tomhongkong wrote:

Camrarat wrote:

tomhongkong wrote:

GinaRothfels wrote:

Henry Falkner wrote:

I am using the 75-300 with both my E-M10 II and E-M10 IV on a tripod mount using the camera body fixture. The slightest wind causes the shakes at the 300mm end.

I have been unable to find a bracket that fits on the body at one end and a lens support at the other to suit the 75-300 lens in particular.

There are such mounts for other long lenses, some even come with a built-in tripod mount.

I dread the day when I find I can't stop shaking. It will be the end of my photography.

Henry

I hate using a tripod and certainly can't see myself using one for shooting birds, so I guess this isn't the lens for me.

Gina

I am 82 and not nearly as steady as I used to be, and I am sure not as steady as you! The shots below were taken hand held with the 75-300 on my EM5iii in poor light with back lighting. I did everything wrong according to the pundits, the exposure correction for the backlight reduced my shutter speed even below what I would normally use. to 1/250! I used iso 640, I could have upped it a bit to shorten shutter speed. I used f6.7....I personally don't find a great benefit of stopping down to 7.1 but I sometimes do. I used the full 300mm.

All around me were the local photographer gang, with big DSLR's and HUGE lenses. I felt very inferior, but the results are fine for me.

So, first the SOOC shot to give you the context and the distance to the bird

Then, the next image is ready for printing. I find I can crop to 2000 on the long side and get decent prints on my Epson L4160, so this is cropped. It was opened in PL5, I upped the exposure a bit and added some micro contrast. I exported in Deep Prime normal setting, but PL5 sharpening was turned off. I sharpened with Topaz Sharpening. (Takes longer to type than do!). Any suggestions for improvement to my workflow would be gratefully received. I am still experimenting with Topaz.

I guess the message is to persevere, the 75-300 can produce acceptable output (for my needs) even in bad conditions. Initially I was disappointed with the results I was getting. If I had to take a tripod it would spoil the enjoyment of walking light with this set up

Good luck

tom

So very clear! Question—do you think the same shot would be possible handheld with the e-m10iv rather than the e-m5? I think the em10 has a few stops worse ibis, iirc. Im trying to decide which cam to get. Have you used the em10 as well?

(Coming from a canon t2i, without enough reach and too much weight/bulk in my current setup.)

Sorry, I only just noticed your reply. I had an EM10ii and really liked it, one of the nicest cameras I have had (given to my Grandson) and think that based on its performance (its 16 Mp) on static subjects like this you would be very happy with EM10iv. I think there are a few things which got deleted from EM10ii by Olympus in going to Mkiii, and some of those got put back in Mk iv. I don't think that there would be any effect on this shot, though. The benefit of the EM5iii is that having PDAF the focus is better for moving subjects when using C-AF.

I hope this helps a bit

tom

I was considering getting a second EM10 Mark 2 as back up to my primary since that one gets so much use! Even though I always use it in electronic shutter mode do you still think it would be a good idea to get a second one? I don't think the electronic shutter ever experiences any wear (knock on wood of course.) I have an extra lens I could put on the back up if I get it.

I don't think I can make that decision for you. There have been several occasions in the past when I liked a camera so much that I bought a spare, only to find that my likes/needs changed and I no longer used the original as much (right now I have two Stylus S1, which I still think are classics for simple carry round cameras) I moved on from the EM10ii to the EM5iii as my 'small camera' only because I wanted better focus for moving subjects (PDAF). I am very happy with the EM5iii at the moment but no doubt GAS will creep in....perhaps an OM5? I think it will be possible to buy good replacements for any camera for a long time if your primary one fails, it just may take longer to get a mint copy as time goes by. In the meantime you still have your money in case something better pops up (that's from my point of view with not unlimited cash to spend on cameras)

So far as I know, if you are using e shutter there should be minimal wear on your existing body, but electronics do get old and fail.

Perhaps someone has a better view of this than I do.

good luck with yuor decision

tom

Thanks, it sounds like what happens with the electronics is more a function of time rather than how much it is used?

MNE wrote:

OutsideTheMatrix wrote:

I was considering getting a second EM10 Mark 2 as back up to my primary since that one gets so much use! Even though I always use it in electronic shutter mode do you still think it would be a good idea to get a second one? I don't think the electronic shutter ever experiences any wear (knock on wood of course.) I have an extra lens I could put on the back up if I get it.

Hello,

I love my M-10 II but when the time comes for a replacement, I will not stay with the M-10 line. The M-5 II would be a better option I think if you want a partner for your M-10 II.

I will move to a M-1 II or III when the time comes.

Might be the M-5 III since that uses the same battery and I also have a set up for continuously powering off of a dummy battery.

OutsideTheMatrix wrote:

NZ Scott wrote:

UrbanHobbit wrote:

I live in Japan and have benefited from the price differential many times. (None of my MFT gear in my list was bought new.)

How do you get on with camera bodies?

A lot of the bodies sold in Japan have Japanese language firmware, with no option to choose English.

This nearly caught me out a couple of weeks ago, when I was looking to buy a GM5. It was lucky I asked…

S

Locals here seem to treat their gear very well. I usually buy on Amazon Japan, where the used prices often provide good deals, although prices do fluctuate. Products rated Good are sometimes in Like New condition, just missing the original box, which I do not mind. About a year ago I did a big purge and sold many lenses and a couple of old camera bodies to a walk-in shop. I wound up getting back about 50% on my MFT gear, which – since I’d got used for relatively cheap anyway – I thought was a fair price to pay for what amounted to an educational long-term rental for starter-level stuff.

More to answer your question: the camera market here seems to be more active here than in other places I’ve lived (US, mostly). For example, I see many more women, of all ages, with system cameras here. I feel that there are just far more camera owners cycling through gear, and that some aspects of marketing (special editions, different color bodies) are driven more by fashion trends than by technical specifications. Additionally, there is no general return policy in Japanese retail. You bought it, you bought it (unless there’s some actual product defect). All this seems to conspire to create a robust used market for people like me, who don’t mind owning second-hand.

If you do buy from Japan, one new variable may be the mention of fungus in lens listings. Much of Japan experiences very humid summers, and fungus thrives in humid environments. In my experience, sellers are always very up-front about it. I have never received an MFT lens with fungus on it.

Can't the Japanese language firmware thing be wiped away with a firmware change?

No, they cannot.

Quite a few disappointed buyers of Japanese cameras on Ebay ...

S

I don't buy Japan bodies here in NY, I am just worried about damage during the long trip. I make sure I buy bodies with a low shutter count (around 1,000 or less) and good condition lenses. So far (knock on wood) I've not been disappointed.

OutsideTheMatrix wrote:

Henry Falkner wrote:

I am using the 75-300 with both my E-M10 II and E-M10 IV on a tripod mount using the camera body fixture. The slightest wind causes the shakes at the 300mm end.

I have been unable to find a bracket that fits on the body at one end and a lens support at the other to suit the 75-300 lens in particular.

There are such mounts for other long lenses, some even come with a built-in tripod mount.

I dread the day when I find I can't stop shaking. It will be the end of my photography.

Henry

You don't need a tripod with this lens. If you find that you cant stop shaking, there are a couple of possible solutions. Lay the camera on a flat surface and either shoot with a timer or a remote (or use your cellphone as a remote trigger).

Not much use when you're shooting wildlife / moving subjects.

S

I got my version I of this lens a few months ago for $175, which was something of a deal but did require some disassembly to clean out some mold spots on the front element. Since then it has been an almost-daily companion for me, and a real pleasure to use for long bird and fish sessions with basically zero fatigue on an E-M1 II.

Recently it hit me that, for a couple hundred bucks, in the 75-300 you can have what is basically a pocketable telescope accessory that can also be used to take pictures. I use it not only for capturing moments, but also to read faraway signs while hiking, and on one occasion to read a menu across the street. I now see that I should probably sell my binoculars, given how little I use them.

UrbanHobbit wrote:

I got my version I of this lens a few months ago for $175, which was something of a deal but did require some disassembly to clean out some mold spots on the front element. Since then it has been an almost-daily companion for me, and a real pleasure to use for long bird and fish sessions with basically zero fatigue on an E-M1 II.

Recently it hit me that, for a couple hundred bucks, in the 75-300 you can have what is basically a pocketable telescope accessory that can also be used to take pictures. I use it not only for capturing moments, but also to read faraway signs while hiking, and on one occasion to read a menu across the street. I now see that I should probably sell my binoculars, given how little I use them.

Yes I love it-- you can even capture Saturn's rings with it!

I got it as a bit of a deal too-- but that was for 300 back in 2020 lol.  How does one test for mold?  I didn't notice any spots on the lens knock on wood lol.

What size are your binoculars?

I've always wondered how to convert binocular magnification to lens focal length.

I have my 10x50-- lightest and used the most....15x70 not light but still usable....and 20x80 gigantic like two telescopes being held at the same time lol