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Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

Started Jan 13, 2022 | Questions
Mike Engles Senior Member • Posts: 2,573
Re: The Spot AF Problem

Since the AF is using ALL the pixels, each spot is a cluster of pixels already.

The R5 has 45 million pixels and the order of 5000 AF points,so theoretically each AF point is a cluster of 9000 pixels. That is my understanding, I could be wrong

That is why eye AF works so well,except when it does not, which is due to a lack of enough contrast.It works if the AF point sits on a area of sufficient contrast, which is possibly why the intended and the actual spot AF point varies.

Skyboximages
Skyboximages New Member • Posts: 5
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

cfieldgate wrote:

Skyboximages wrote:

Wondering should I do a complete reset and start over? I’m not having the battery issues. So that’s a good thing. I haven’t lost hope but my confidence is getting lower with each time I watch another YouTube video or read another article about the R3 thinking aha! I think I got it. Anyways. Any help or suggestions I’m all ears. Thank you.

No need for a reset, unless you are really messed up.

Whether or not you do reset, watch Jan Wegener on YT for his two / three back button setup on an R5 to get you started.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgCPjCR-GpI

However, you really need to look into using the Smart Controller, and maybe Eye Control AF (it doesn't work for me unfortunately). Plenty of threads her on that.

My setup:

  • I shoot my R3 set to ED on and Subject Tracking off in the menus. I have the Shutter button set to AF and the shooting mode set to Single Shot. I move the chosen AF Area with the Smart Controller. I have the front two buttons set to toggle on/off ED and Subject Tracking.
  • When I press the Smart Controller to AF I override to Servo and Subject Tracking on. With the * button I override to Servo but without Subject Tracking.
  • This set up lets me quickly and flexibly select different AF configurations to suit the situation with the camera up to my eye and without any delay caused by having to go into menus.
  • In the Quick Control menu I have added the AF Area selection. I also have this on the far right back button and Main Dial as well as the Control Ring.

Also, don't forget you can still set it up to work like your 1DX II and track the 'old-school' way.

Thank you!!!!

I'm thinking of starting over and doing a clean restart.  This way I can see exactly where the issues are.  I was blown away Friday night by what was happening.  Part of me wouldn't mind setting it like a 1dxmk2 since that was my main camera body prior to adapting to the R3.

 Skyboximages's gear list:Skyboximages's gear list
Canon EOS-1D X Mark II Canon EOS R3 Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 400mm f/2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 24-105mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM +1 more
Skyboximages
Skyboximages New Member • Posts: 5
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

cfieldgate wrote:

Skyboximages wrote:

Wondering should I do a complete reset and start over? I’m not having the battery issues. So that’s a good thing. I haven’t lost hope but my confidence is getting lower with each time I watch another YouTube video or read another article about the R3 thinking aha! I think I got it. Anyways. Any help or suggestions I’m all ears. Thank you.

No need for a reset, unless you are really messed up.

Whether or not you do reset, watch Jan Wegener on YT for his two / three back button setup on an R5 to get you started.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgCPjCR-GpI

However, you really need to look into using the Smart Controller, and maybe Eye Control AF (it doesn't work for me unfortunately). Plenty of threads her on that.

My setup:

  • I shoot my R3 set to ED on and Subject Tracking off in the menus. I have the Shutter button set to AF and the shooting mode set to Single Shot. I move the chosen AF Area with the Smart Controller. I have the front two buttons set to toggle on/off ED and Subject Tracking.
  • When I press the Smart Controller to AF I override to Servo and Subject Tracking on. With the * button I override to Servo but without Subject Tracking.
  • This set up lets me quickly and flexibly select different AF configurations to suit the situation with the camera up to my eye and without any delay caused by having to go into menus.
  • In the Quick Control menu I have added the AF Area selection. I also have this on the far right back button and Main Dial as well as the Control Ring.

Also, don't forget you can still set it up to work like your 1DX II and track the 'old-school' way.

Thank you for the reply!  This might be a real ignorant question.  As I shoot sports 99% of the time.  I don't think in single shot would be very helpful.  In the last 24 hours since I first posted I have learned a lot about the differences in the sensor.  I do think with all the custom settings I have enabled I might've placed a setting that is helping with my AF problem.  I may just do a reset and start over.  I purchased the R3 in December.  So its not like I have a lot of shutter time with it.  Thank you for the assistance!

 Skyboximages's gear list:Skyboximages's gear list
Canon EOS-1D X Mark II Canon EOS R3 Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 400mm f/2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 24-105mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM +1 more
cfieldgate Regular Member • Posts: 475
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

Skyboximages wrote:

cfieldgate wrote:

Skyboximages wrote:

Wondering should I do a complete reset and start over? I’m not having the battery issues. So that’s a good thing. I haven’t lost hope but my confidence is getting lower with each time I watch another YouTube video or read another article about the R3 thinking aha! I think I got it. Anyways. Any help or suggestions I’m all ears. Thank you.

No need for a reset, unless you are really messed up.

Whether or not you do reset, watch Jan Wegener on YT for his two / three back button setup on an R5 to get you started.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgCPjCR-GpI

However, you really need to look into using the Smart Controller, and maybe Eye Control AF (it doesn't work for me unfortunately). Plenty of threads her on that.

My setup:

  • I shoot my R3 set to ED on and Subject Tracking off in the menus. I have the Shutter button set to AF and the shooting mode set to Single Shot. I move the chosen AF Area with the Smart Controller. I have the front two buttons set to toggle on/off ED and Subject Tracking.
  • When I press the Smart Controller to AF I override to Servo and Subject Tracking on. With the * button I override to Servo but without Subject Tracking.
  • This set up lets me quickly and flexibly select different AF configurations to suit the situation with the camera up to my eye and without any delay caused by having to go into menus.
  • In the Quick Control menu I have added the AF Area selection. I also have this on the far right back button and Main Dial as well as the Control Ring.

Also, don't forget you can still set it up to work like your 1DX II and track the 'old-school' way.

Thank you for the reply! This might be a real ignorant question. As I shoot sports 99% of the time. I don't think in single shot would be very helpful. In the last 24 hours since I first posted I have learned a lot about the differences in the sensor. I do think with all the custom settings I have enabled I might've placed a setting that is helping with my AF problem. I may just do a reset and start over. I purchased the R3 in December. So its not like I have a lot of shutter time with it. Thank you for the assistance!

I think you misunderstand me. Setting the shooting mode to One Shot allows you to focus and take images with the shutter button alone. However, when you press the AF-On button / Smart Controller then I have it configured to override One Shot with Servo. So, when pressing AF-On the shooting mode changes from One Shot to Servo so I can track moving subjects (e.g. sports).

An often-stated reason for disabling AF from the shutter button when set up for back button focus is that it the camera will re-focus when you press the shutter button. However, if you are overriding the shooting mode with the AF-On button, if you continue to press the AF-On button then the shutter button just fires the shutter.

Again, in the old days of 'focus and recompose' which allowed you to obtain the focus outside of the DSLR's AF points, back button would help you to stop focussing, reframe, and then fire the shutter - but you need to disable the shutter from AF-ing. With mirrorless, that is not an issue as you can AF anywhere in the frame. I find the Smart Controller and a smaller AF Area useful for that.

 cfieldgate's gear list:cfieldgate's gear list
Canon EOS-1D X Mark II Canon EOS R3 Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM +6 more
expro Senior Member • Posts: 2,273
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

Yes it is just learning the camera. I’m always amazed at how complicated people make it on this forum.

4-6 weeks and you’ll nail it and never think about it again!

 expro's gear list:expro's gear list
Canon EOS R3 Canon RF 24-70mm F2.8L IS USM Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8L IS USM Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS USM Canon RF 14-35mm F4L IS USM
MarshallG
MarshallG Veteran Member • Posts: 8,951
Re: The Spot AF Problem

Mike Engles wrote:

Since the AF is using ALL the pixels, each spot is a cluster of pixels already.

The R5 has 45 million pixels and the order of 5000 AF points,so theoretically each AF point is a cluster of 9000 pixels. That is my understanding, I could be wrong

That is why eye AF works so well,except when it does not, which is due to a lack of enough contrast.It works if the AF point sits on a area of sufficient contrast, which is possibly why the intended and the actual spot AF point varies.

I don’t know down to the pixel how it works. I assume you’re right, but I think even though the smallest “spot” is many pixels, it is often too small to find contrast.

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Mike Engles Senior Member • Posts: 2,573
Re: The Spot AF Problem

In eye mode the pixel cluster varies, the exif shows it . If there are 44,761,088 pixels and there are 5,940 individual focus areas and if ALL the pixels are used, that suggests that each AF area has about 7535 pixels.

Alternatively a R5 36mm wide frame has 8192 pixels, so each pixel must be .0044 mm. Now if you use the 24mm width, and 5464, each pixel is.0043mm.

I imagine that is not so simple

MarshallG
MarshallG Veteran Member • Posts: 8,951
Re: The Spot AF Problem
1

Mike Engles wrote:

In eye mode the pixel cluster varies, the exif shows it . If there are 44,761,088 pixels and there are 5,940 individual focus areas and if ALL the pixels are used, that suggests that each AF area has about 7535 pixels.

Alternatively a R5 36mm wide frame has 8192 pixels, so each pixel must be .0044 mm. Now if you use the 24mm width, and 5464, each pixel is.0043mm.

I imagine that is not so simple

Interesting discussion!
I think the Eye AF Mode is different from using Single Point or a cluster of points for AF. In Eye AF, I think the camera reads the data out of the sensor as an image,  uses AI to find the face, then the eyes, and then it runs AF on the area of the eyes using the DPAF technology

The non-Eye AF modes just use DPAF to detect focus on the closest object that is within the AF selection area, and then, in Servo, it tracks that object keeps focus on it. I don’t know if the tracking uses AI, compared to the simpler tracking methods used in the DSLR’s.

In sum, none of us know exactly how the camera works internally (unless one of us is a Canon designer). My philosophy about this and everything else with the camera is that there is value in understanding how it works, but at the end of the day, actual experience in how the image looks  is far more useful. And that’s true of whether we’re talking about aperture, lens distortion, diffraction, shutter speed, etc, etc.

 MarshallG's gear list:MarshallG's gear list
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Mike Engles Senior Member • Posts: 2,573
Re: The Spot AF Problem

Chicken and egg situation,as if the contrast is low it cannot read what is there in the first place, to find a face or the nether end. That is why the best use is to if possible actually put the spot on the bit you want to focus on. Even if you do that the 'AI' will often run off and pick somewhere else, that is just 'contrasty'.

Realms of magic I call it.

Skyboximages
Skyboximages New Member • Posts: 5
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

cfieldgate wrote:

Skyboximages wrote:

cfieldgate wrote:

Skyboximages wrote:

Wondering should I do a complete reset and start over? I’m not having the battery issues. So that’s a good thing. I haven’t lost hope but my confidence is getting lower with each time I watch another YouTube video or read another article about the R3 thinking aha! I think I got it. Anyways. Any help or suggestions I’m all ears. Thank you.

No need for a reset, unless you are really messed up.

Whether or not you do reset, watch Jan Wegener on YT for his two / three back button setup on an R5 to get you started.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgCPjCR-GpI

However, you really need to look into using the Smart Controller, and maybe Eye Control AF (it doesn't work for me unfortunately). Plenty of threads her on that.

My setup:

  • I shoot my R3 set to ED on and Subject Tracking off in the menus. I have the Shutter button set to AF and the shooting mode set to Single Shot. I move the chosen AF Area with the Smart Controller. I have the front two buttons set to toggle on/off ED and Subject Tracking.
  • When I press the Smart Controller to AF I override to Servo and Subject Tracking on. With the * button I override to Servo but without Subject Tracking.
  • This set up lets me quickly and flexibly select different AF configurations to suit the situation with the camera up to my eye and without any delay caused by having to go into menus.
  • In the Quick Control menu I have added the AF Area selection. I also have this on the far right back button and Main Dial as well as the Control Ring.

Also, don't forget you can still set it up to work like your 1DX II and track the 'old-school' way.

Thank you for the reply! This might be a real ignorant question. As I shoot sports 99% of the time. I don't think in single shot would be very helpful. In the last 24 hours since I first posted I have learned a lot about the differences in the sensor. I do think with all the custom settings I have enabled I might've placed a setting that is helping with my AF problem. I may just do a reset and start over. I purchased the R3 in December. So its not like I have a lot of shutter time with it. Thank you for the assistance!

I think you misunderstand me. Setting the shooting mode to One Shot allows you to focus and take images with the shutter button alone. However, when you press the AF-On button / Smart Controller then I have it configured to override One Shot with Servo. So, when pressing AF-On the shooting mode changes from One Shot to Servo so I can track moving subjects (e.g. sports).

An often-stated reason for disabling AF from the shutter button when set up for back button focus is that it the camera will re-focus when you press the shutter button. However, if you are overriding the shooting mode with the AF-On button, if you continue to press the AF-On button then the shutter button just fires the shutter.

Again, in the old days of 'focus and recompose' which allowed you to obtain the focus outside of the DSLR's AF points, back button would help you to stop focussing, reframe, and then fire the shutter - but you need to disable the shutter from AF-ing. With mirrorless, that is not an issue as you can AF anywhere in the frame. I find the Smart Controller and a smaller AF Area useful for that.

I re-read your response.  You are correct I did misunderstand.  I am very interested in doing this.  I also had some success capturing images at a wrestling tournament.  I didn't have as much jumping of the AF to other subjects while trying to focus on a player.  I didn't do the factory reset either.  I decided perhaps the smartest thing I need to do is read about the R3 and the posts of other users and learn.  I think with more shutter time I will figure out the "sweetspot" of the R3.

 Skyboximages's gear list:Skyboximages's gear list
Canon EOS-1D X Mark II Canon EOS R3 Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 400mm f/2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 24-105mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM +1 more
cfieldgate Regular Member • Posts: 475
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

As I still use my one remaining 1DX II, I have set them both up as similarly as possible to make switching easier. Obviously, the 1 DX II can’t do Subject Tracking across the whole frame and Eye Detection, but I have my R3 set so that changing the AF Area and Exposure Compensation uses the same button presses. The new position of the Menu button on the R3 still foxes me from time to time though 😀.

 cfieldgate's gear list:cfieldgate's gear list
Canon EOS-1D X Mark II Canon EOS R3 Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM +6 more
MarshallG
MarshallG Veteran Member • Posts: 8,951
Re: The Spot AF Problem

Mike Engles wrote:

Chicken and egg situation,as if the contrast is low it cannot read what is there in the first place, to find a face or the nether end. That is why the best use is to if possible actually put the spot on the bit you want to focus on. Even if you do that the 'AI' will often run off and pick somewhere else, that is just 'contrasty'.

Realms of magic I call it.

No, it’s not the same. 
Even if you have plenty of light, if you tell the camera to only contrast detect a small spot where there’s no contrast, then you won’t get contrast. That’s why I said it’s usually best to choose a small cluster than a single spot.
If you intend to focus on a person’s face, then Eye AF is going to be best.  But if you’re taking photos of flowers or a car or the sunset or… whatever… then Eye AF won’t help.

 MarshallG's gear list:MarshallG's gear list
Canon EOS R5 Canon EF 50mm F1.4 USM Canon EF 85mm F1.8 USM Canon EF 16-35mm F2.8L II USM Canon Extender EF 1.4x II +4 more
Mike Engles Senior Member • Posts: 2,573
Re: The Spot AF Problem

Perhaps, but I still use eye AF with the eye turned off. A well defined object is pretty often 'marqueed' by the AF, making selection of an arbitrary object quite good. Obviously not so with a bee on a flower, when I revert to single large spot.

Skyboximages
Skyboximages New Member • Posts: 5
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

expro wrote:

Yes it is just learning the camera. I’m always amazed at how complicated people make it on this forum.

4-6 weeks and you’ll nail it and never think about it again!

I hope you are right.  I was questioning everything Friday night.  Images I would make with my 1dxmk2 were point-and-shoot.  With the R3 I had to make sure the AF single point was on the player I thought I was tracking.   I have since learned I should use expanded view.  As you said, just need some more time with it.  Glad, I didn't do the reset.

 Skyboximages's gear list:Skyboximages's gear list
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expro Senior Member • Posts: 2,273
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

I had dx and R3 smokes it

 expro's gear list:expro's gear list
Canon EOS R3 Canon RF 24-70mm F2.8L IS USM Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8L IS USM Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS USM Canon RF 14-35mm F4L IS USM
RLight Senior Member • Posts: 4,418
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

Jeffrey_Meyer_Photography wrote:

Hi everyone. I recently purchased a Canon R3, and jumped into the mirrorless world with two feet and an open mind. My former camera was a Canon 1Dx, and it's still going strong — after 10-years of use — with great results and awesome reliability. Sadly, however, my newly purchased Canon R3 is causing me some major heart palpitations and confidence worries, and I'm hoping (praying) that my experiences are related to my not yet knowing much about the R3's mirrorless settings or its operation. Yet, I suspect something more technical beyond my settings may be at hand, so thus my outreach.

Question for R3 users, are you experiencing (any) major focusing issues?

I'm experiencing at least five (5) unique issues:

For example:

1) When using "single point", "one shot" focus on a stationary subject (very basic stuff), my camera will (sometimes) not focus at all. It's almost like it locks up (i.e., it won't even hunt), but I can sense that it's trying to work (i.e., the focus box will light up red), but it just doesn't work. All I see is a blurry screen. Shutter button will not work. Then, as-if almost randomly and without my understanding, it will suddenly focus and the shot will be captured. I've tried changing various settings like my "shutter mode" from "electronic" to "mechanical" to see if that might be something behind it, but I'm getting the issue it in both cases. Again, I'm completely new to mirrorless technology, so perhaps it's a setting/mode function restriction I don't yet know about? When I handed the camera to my wife, she experienced the same thing.

2) When focusing on nearby subjects (but still respecting the minimum focusing distances of my lenses) my camera will again (sometimes) not focus on the subject, but this time, however, it will at least continuously "hunt" back-and-forth trying to focus, and the shutter will depress and capture a blurry image. Yet, in such cases it will often never achieve the focus. So, I power off my camera, and restart. That unacceptable solution has sometimes worked out, but clearly that's not a tenable response. I've experienced this with my Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L lens (using the RF attachment ring) and the only RF lens I also recently purchased (the 50mm f/1.2L).

3) When more than one subject is in the scene, and layered, my camera (noticeably) struggles to focus on a foreground subject, but is perfectly ok with focusing on the background (or distant) subject. This experience is really annoying, and it's seriously eroding my confidence in using this camera. I often cannot get it to focus on the foreground subject despite moving my focusing point over the foreground object. On a combination of issues 2 and 3, I randomly noticed that Tony & Chelsea Northrup were also observing some of this, but they observed these things using other R3 settings and other subject dynamics I have yet to try. You can see their review here. At different points in their review, you can hear them clearly say that they were: “missing focus on a lot of the closer shots”; “Tracking focus is exponentially harder the closer the subject gets to the camera”; "At close range, the autofocus wandered a lot even when it was locked on […] it just hunted in and out”. In my experience, I would most certainly agree, but my issues appear worse because (sometimes) I literally couldn't shoot the image despite pushing the shutter button.

4) Sometimes, my focusing point will not move, despite my trying to reposition it. It just sits wherever it may be on the screen. Again, almost as-if it locks up.

5) When focusing with "eye control", which does somewhat work for me, I cannot get the camera to focus on the left side of the screen with my eye, despite several calibration attempts under different lighting conditions. It will only work top, bottom, and right. A second issue is that the focus won't "stay" where my eye is looking. Obviously, hard to explain in a forum, but while I'm clearly looking at a fixed point (almost stubbornly with intense concentration) I can notice the focusing box awkwardly drifting in a slow straight line to the right of the screen. Almost like a mouse button randomly locking up on you and it drifting off in a straight line to the corner of a monitor.

Final points: While my time and experience in using the Canon R3 is limited, I have had some wonderful experiences too. Like when I was able to photograph my newborn son sleeping without disturbing him. I was able to accomplish this by using the "silent shutter" mode and the tilt screen angled high above my head with subject tracking on in a very low ambient light situation under high ISO values. That whole situation and combination of features just worked out awesomely in a way my 1Dx never could, and it was honestly borderline ridiculous how my low light shot held from a distance above my head turned out tack sharp with no discernable noise. But clearly the other focusing problems I'm having are a no-go.

Altogether, I really, really want this to work out, and give the future of mirrorless cameras a chance. Yet, I must confess, a large part of me is wondering if I made a mistake by not going with the 1Dx Mark III. One last point before I close this long message, the AD-E1 adapter is absolutely necessary, and I was livid when I read Canon said it was an "optional" accessory. Careful: The official discourse on this is not consistent, and this situation only came to my attention when I couldn't get any of my numerous Canon flashes to fire on my R3, then looked at the manual to find out why. The shoe fits, but the flashes will either not fire at all, or if they do, they will fire with a full 1/1 power dump. The manual I read clearly noted this, so there is nothing optional about that AD-E1 block if you plan to use a Canon 600 EX-RT flash, and at the very least, after spending nearly $8000 on a camera, Canon should have just automatically included it in the box. That, in my mind was a clear design flaw and a massive customer oversight, but perhaps Canon really does think it's an option because (rumor) they are working on a flash that powers off the R3's battery, but good luck with that too because this thing is voracious on batteries next to my 1Dx experience. I get about 415 pictures over a full charge. I've already ordered extra batteries. Cheers, Jeff

What AF method? What AF size? What subject tracking mode? What lens/es?

Try turning off subject detection or employ the override I’ve previously written on.

Cross point is your friend, as well s reduced size boxes, again, I’ve touched on. Full frame AF can “fight back”, as can subject tracking as the camera may try to outwit you. It’s smart, but needs to be reigned in at times. Otherwise I have to agree with others, I’d return it if I had these issues.

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David Pavlich
David Pavlich Veteran Member • Posts: 5,174
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

QSMcDraw wrote:

So, PhotoKhan, I wonder if having the R first as a bridge to the R5/R6 AF system might have made things a little less abrupt?

I went from the 5DIV to the R5.  albeit late in the game since I've had the camera for about 6 months.  I spent about two hours getting the buttons set up for what I do.  Nothing special, just the two back button focus settings, one for single point and one for eye detect, then a couple of C options settings, then getting the rear screen as I like it and since then, it's update when they come and shoot away.

It's been a fairly seamless transition, much easier than I anticipated.  And, the focusing capability of the R5 made the upgrade worth every penny, even with my third party lenses.

David

The hardest part about being a vegan is getting up at 5AM to milk the almonds.
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nilehawver New Member • Posts: 2
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

Sorry to hear about your focusing troubles- I'm experiencing pretty much the same thing!

When I'm not shooting headshots, I sometimes shoot live theatre and events. I've been using mirrorless systems for years (A7RII and III, then R5+R6) so it isn't a learning curve thing from switching from DSLR.

I was thrilled with the AF performance of the R5 and R6 for those applications.

2022 was a good year for me so I figured I'd trade my two R6 for two R3s to get that good stacked-sensor low light performance.

I will say, I cheaped out and went grey market, saved about $1400 between both cameras. I should not have done so.

I'm finding that my R3s have the same focus issues OP is describing. Never had any complaint about the R6 and R5, they just work, especially with eye tracking since most of my subjects are humans.

I notice the R3 has acceptable but frustrating AF performance when shooting theatre, but when I put a speedlite on (i use Profoto A10s) and am shooting in say, a dark bar (iso 3200, f/2,), the AF on the R3 barely works at all, the screen is laggy.

I've tried plenty of setting changes, but I worry the cameras are defective. I also notice the battery life is pretty disappointing- I feel like the ungripped R6 got 2-3x the snaps on a single charge.

I'm considering ordering a new R3 from B&H just to see if it works better, but that's kind of an expensive test. I know grey market is still genuine Canon, but it feels somehow like they're really not working as advertised.

I may try the reset, but otherwise I'm not sure what to do, especially since Canon isn't obligated to service or provide support for these bodies.

cfieldgate Regular Member • Posts: 475
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

I would have thought it somewhat unlikely that both cameras are defective. Save your settings to a card, reset them and re-test.

To better understand your issue it would be useful to see any samples of failure and know more about your settings and lenses used.

I went grey market too. It came with a 3 year warranty and the dealer claims Canon will service / repair locally. I have yet to test this but many others have had good experiences.

 cfieldgate's gear list:cfieldgate's gear list
Canon EOS-1D X Mark II Canon EOS R3 Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM +6 more
expro Senior Member • Posts: 2,273
Re: Canon R3 Users: Are you experiencing (any) focusing issues? I am!

Agree is almost zero possibility of both bodies going wrong.

the key here may be flash ?

I don’t know what’s going on otherwise as I moved from 1dx a year ago and my r3 smokes it at everything once you learn the AF.

 expro's gear list:expro's gear list
Canon EOS R3 Canon RF 24-70mm F2.8L IS USM Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8L IS USM Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS USM Canon RF 14-35mm F4L IS USM
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