Playback for the Fuji W3?

Contemplating getting one of these cameras and wondering how people play back the 3D images without a 3D capable HDTV.

Could the images potentially be displayed stereoscopically on a huge 4K OLED and viewed with a Stereo Wide-View Viewer for Prints and Monitors like the one shown here?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DQT8QD6/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

I wouldn’t be keen on conversion to anaglyphs nor playback via VR headsets. Thanks!

fPrime

I have been thinking of viewing parallel side by side movie clips on a large TV screen. This is a normal 2d not 3d TV., and this  is with the images not squashed.

These glasses are available from here

http://www.3dstereo.com/viewmaster/pvn-swv.html

I don't have any , but would be interested in the quality of the image you get.

I have designed my own glasses. It uses a couple of small mirrors and I would place the 'rig' over one eye only. I just need to find the time to go into my garage and cut up some pieces of wood to make it. I have some mirrors which are suitable for the job.

Thanks, all, for the confirmation of concept and links. I do understand that stereoscopic glasses like these would be a visual compromise compared to viewing on a true 3D HDTV, but at least the 3D images could be viewed on a larger TV without the color distortion that anaglyphs involve.

The irony here is that I actually used to own one of LG’s early 3D OLED HDTV’s but it had to be sent back due to an internal mask misalignment that showed up as a slightly yellowed blotch on the screen whenever an all-white image was displayed. I think the difficulty LG had in producing 3D screens without these sorts of defects helped to ultimately doom the 3D wave.

fPrime

Thanks for the additional suggestions with regards to VR Glasses and Projectors.

One other question occurred to me… how are W3 images best processed? For example does the camera output a RAW file that can be converted in Lightroom or would I be limited to developing the image through Fuji’s legacy software package?

fPrime

fPrime wrote:

Thanks for the additional suggestions with regards to VR Glasses and Projectors.

One other question occurred to me… how are W3 images best processed? For example does the camera output a RAW file that can be converted in Lightroom or would I be limited to developing the image through Fuji’s legacy software package?

fPrime

The best solution is using the amazing and free Stereo Photo Maker software:

https://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/

It can open the .MPO files from the camera directly if desired.

For more processing options, my workflow is to batch split the .MPO files to Left and Right images and import into Photoshop Lightroom.

From there, I do a bit of noise reduction since the Fuji W3D is noisy.

(You could also use the enhance function in Lightroom and up-res the photos, but that is hit or miss).

Once the pairs are edited..... export the pair and then use SPM to create your choice of output.

Chu123 wrote:

fPrime wrote:

Thanks for the additional suggestions with regards to VR Glasses and Projectors.

One other question occurred to me… how are W3 images best processed? For example does the camera output a RAW file that can be converted in Lightroom or would I be limited to developing the image through Fuji’s legacy software package?

fPrime

The best solution is using the amazing and free Stereo Photo Maker software:

https://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/

It can open the .MPO files from the camera directly if desired.

For more processing options, my workflow is to batch split the .MPO files to Left and Right images and import into Photoshop Lightroom.

From there, I do a bit of noise reduction since the Fuji W3D is noisy.

(You could also use the enhance function in Lightroom and up-res the photos, but that is hit or miss).

Once the pairs are edited..... export the pair and then use SPM to create your choice of output.

Thanks for sharing your W3 workflow, Chu123.

This seems to confirm the other commentary I've seen online that the .MPO file basically contains two JPEG's and that there is no true RAW file for the W3 for Lightroom to demosaic.

So, while the W3 JPEG's can be enhanced and edited, they will essentially be 8-bit files with all the limitations we know that JPEG's have. If I have any of this incorrect, let me know.

fPrime

3D Gunner wrote:

Yes, the camera provides you with a pair of jpg images that do not need to be separated. From SPM you can save them in a single file (Full SBS for example), preferably in an uncompressed/losless format (TIFF, BMP), which you can later clean and enhance in Lightroom or other software.

Got it, thanks.

If I may ask, what model passive 4K 3D TV do you have that you currently use for playback? Maybe the used market has some to offer…

fPrime

3D Gunner wrote:

I have an LG 55UB850V, but being an old model it is completely irrelevant.

It has worked as a PC monitor for more than 32000 hours.

That’s a lot of PC time!

Thanks for the tips.

fPrime

fPrime wrote:

This seems to confirm the other commentary I've seen online that the .MPO file basically contains two JPEG's and that there is no true RAW file for the W3 for Lightroom to demosaic.

So, while the W3 JPEG's can be enhanced and edited, they will essentially be 8-bit files with all the limitations we know that JPEG's have. If I have any of this incorrect, let me know.

fPrime

The Fujifilm W3 3D is a fun little camera for quick captures that require perfect sync of moving subjects. But it is horrible in low light and the quality of the images is only so-so.

You can shoot superior quality 3d photos with your iPhone and the i3DSteroid app .

For the price the Fujifilm W3 are commanding on eBay, I would consider looking for a pair of point and shoots and mounting it on a twin stereo bar.

It would be hard to get perfect sync for fast moving subjects with both hands pressing the shutters. The stereo base is wider then "normal" human eyes-- but the image quality is superior. (You could flip one camera upside down.. but that's a mounting/rigging challenge).

One could even consider a Lenovo Mirage Camera which were selling for less than a hundred bucks. It's a VR180 camera, but it does VR180 photos. You can use Google cardboard to view the photos.

StereoPhotoMaker can work with the files from the Lenovo, but only with the full fish eye look.

Anyway.. my thoughts.

Chu123 wrote:

fPrime wrote:

This seems to confirm the other commentary I've seen online that the .MPO file basically contains two JPEG's and that there is no true RAW file for the W3 for Lightroom to demosaic.

So, while the W3 JPEG's can be enhanced and edited, they will essentially be 8-bit files with all the limitations we know that JPEG's have. If I have any of this incorrect, let me know.

fPrime

The Fujifilm W3 3D is a fun little camera for quick captures that require perfect sync of moving subjects. But it is horrible in low light and the quality of the images is only so-so.

You can shoot superior quality 3d photos with your iPhone and the i3DSteroid app .

For the price the Fujifilm W3 are commanding on eBay, I would consider looking for a pair of point and shoots and mounting it on a twin stereo bar.

It would be hard to get perfect sync for fast moving subjects with both hands pressing the shutters. The stereo base is wider then "normal" human eyes-- but the image quality is superior. (You could flip one camera upside down.. but that's a mounting/rigging challenge).

One could even consider a Lenovo Mirage Camera which were selling for less than a hundred bucks. It's a VR180 camera, but it does VR180 photos. You can use Google cardboard to view the photos.

StereoPhotoMaker can work with the files from the Lenovo, but only with the full fish eye look.

Anyway.. my thoughts.

Thanks, Chu123, for the suggestion above. I actually already have one Nikon J1 already and adding another likely wouldn't cost more than $150. Honestly, getting images this way would have a tremendous advantage since I could edit the Nikon 1 RAW's instead of the W3's JPEG's. What's the model of twin stereo bar that you chose for your setup?

fPrime

3D Gunner wrote:

There are several solutions. This for example is a very solid solution with many advantages: PU-200 200mm Universal Quick Release Plate

Or: PU-300 300mm

Thanks for the recommendations!

fPrime

fPrime wrote:

Thanks, Chu123, for the suggestion above. I actually already have one Nikon J1 already and adding another likely wouldn't cost more than $150. Honestly, getting images this way would have a tremendous advantage since I could edit the Nikon 1 RAW's instead of the W3's JPEG's. What's the model of twin stereo bar that you chose for your setup?

fPrime

Heck, seeing your gear list... you could get a second Canon 5D and get 2 sets of wireless remotes?  I believe one remote can trigger both the cameras.   That would be awesome.