Recommended Workflow for DP1S in 2021

Hi all, I've read multiple discussions on this but just wanted to clarify as I'm new to the Foveon game.

I recently purchased a DP1S - I can load the files into Lightroom Classic just fine, but am I losing anything by not first processing them in SPP? And what's the "minimum" amount of processing that I can get away with in SPP (just really used to LR at this point)

Thanks in advance!

Nick_Andrews wrote:

Hi all, I've read multiple discussions on this but just wanted to clarify as I'm new to the Foveon game.

I recently purchased a DP1S - I can load the files into Lightroom Classic just fine, but am I losing anything by not first processing them in SPP?

Hello Nick and welcome!

What you get is Adobe's conversion via Adobe Camera Raw which is part of LR's Develop Module. Adobe's conversion is different to that of SPP. For example, I once had a yellow flower that got gamut-clipped by ACR but not by SPP.

The cause of that problem was not obvious. Shortly thereafter, I parted with Adobe for ever.

For the DP1s I would recommend SPP 3.5.2 for it's simplicity compared with later versions.

And what's the "minimum" amount of processing that I can get away with in SPP? (just really used to LR at this point)

For important work, I usually adjust nothing * and export to my fancy editors ** as 16-bit ProPhoto TIFF. My editors do everything better than SPP.

The above assumes that I got the exposure and WB correct in the camera.

* I also leave the camera JPEG settings at default.

** RawTherapee, GIMP.

xpatUSA wrote:

Nick_Andrews wrote:

Hi all, I've read multiple discussions on this but just wanted to clarify as I'm new to the Foveon game.

I recently purchased a DP1S - I can load the files into Lightroom Classic just fine, but am I losing anything by not first processing them in SPP?

Hello Nick and welcome!

What you get is Adobe's conversion via Adobe Camera Raw which is part of LR's Develop Module. Adobe's conversion is different to that of SPP. For example, I once had a yellow flower that got gamut-clipped by ACR but not by SPP.

I would second to go with SPP rather than Adobe.

Here is an example, not from a DP1 but a DP2:

Abobe conversion:
https://cameraderie.org/attachments/5985994157_4433ff9e1a_o-jpg.1651/

SPP conversion:
https://cameraderie.org/attachments/5985994315_7bb86fb643_o-jpg.1652/

this is taken from a review of the DP2x by Jeff Damron on Cameraderie.org:

https://cameraderie.org/threads/sigma-dp2x-review-a-field-report.3618/

The difference between the two conversions is massive.  SPP seems to be able to impute/recover a lot of the clipped colors - this algorithm is apparently not available in Abobe.

I have an SD15 and I import and adjust the X3F files in Lightroom first.  This is a good way to do a first edit.  Then with the files I like, I open them in SPP and adjust and save as a TIF.  I will then import the TIFs alongside the X3F’s and filter the view depending on which I want to work with.

Try it and you can compare the X3F and TIF files side by side in Lightroom,  You will then see if you prefer adding this step of using SPP.

Nick_Andrews wrote:

That is a stark difference indeed! I wonder if it has something to do with AFE...

I would say it is partly due to AFE (especially the fur of the dog) but if you look at the grass - it is much greener in the SPP version.

Definitely SPP has a trick or two that is not implemented in Adobe stuff...

Nick_Andrews wrote:

Hi all, I've read multiple discussions on this but just wanted to clarify as I'm new to the Foveon game.

I recently purchased a DP1S - I can load the files into Lightroom Classic just fine, but am I losing anything by not first processing them in SPP? And what's the "minimum" amount of processing that I can get away with in SPP (just really used to LR at this point)

Thanks in advance!

HI Nick,

I misread your camera DP1s but expect it is much the same as the SD15 X3F files I get.

FWIW I set my SD15  in camera exposure to --3 and work from there.

I use SPP initially for a start and then Affinity Photo to fine tune if I feel like it.

I don't spend a lot of time on post processing and don't get bogged down playing around.

Keep it simple and easy, that's for me.

Hope you enjoy your 'new' camera.

Cheers.

Plockton.

whisky wrote:

Nick_Andrews wrote:

Hi all, I've read multiple discussions on this but just wanted to clarify as I'm new to the Foveon game.

I recently purchased a DP1S - I can load the files into Lightroom Classic just fine, but am I losing anything by not first processing them in SPP? And what's the "minimum" amount of processing that I can get away with in SPP (just really used to LR at this point)

Thanks in advance!

HI Nick,

I misread your camera DP1s but expect it is much the same as the SD15 X3F files I get.

...but the DP1s is 'iso-less' whereas the SD15 has an AFE and the conversion meta-data are quite different.

FWIW I set my SD15 in camera exposure to --3 and work from there.

Out of interest, is that -3 or - 0.3? Presumably to avoid the AFE clipping?  I'm thinking -0.3EV because -3EV would be a bit much, noise-wise ...

I use SPP initially for a start and then Affinity Photo to fine tune if I feel like it.

I don't spend a lot of time on post processing and don't get bogged down playing around.

Keep it simple and easy, that's for me.

Me too, Stuart!

xpatUSA wrote:

whisky wrote:

Nick_Andrews wrote:

Hi all, I've read multiple discussions on this but just wanted to clarify as I'm new to the Foveon game.

I recently purchased a DP1S - I can load the files into Lightroom Classic just fine, but am I losing anything by not first processing them in SPP? And what's the "minimum" amount of processing that I can get away with in SPP (just really used to LR at this point)

Thanks in advance!

HI Nick,

I misread your camera DP1s but expect it is much the same as the SD15 X3F files I get.

...but the DP1s is 'iso-less' whereas the SD15 has an AFE and the conversion meta-data are quite different.

FWIW I set my SD15 in camera exposure to --3 and work from there.

Out of interest, is that -3 or - 0.3? Presumably to avoid the AFE clipping? I'm thinking -0.3EV because -3EV would be a bit much, noise-wise ...

I use SPP initially for a start and then Affinity Photo to fine tune if I feel like it.

I don't spend a lot of time on post processing and don't get bogged down playing around.

Keep it simple and easy, that's for me.

Me too, Stuart!

Hi Ted,  glad to see you are still 'hanging in'  Trust Texas is kind to you.

Sorry, it is --0.3EV.  I have found that helps with 'blown' highlights and just leave the SD15 set at that.

Not done much with the camera for a long time, seem to have lost my 'Mojo' with it ☹️

All this lockdown etc cramps opportunities , real drag.

Take care and best wishes.

Cheers,

Stuart.