DPReview.com is closing April 10th - Find out more

Stereo rig and base distance

Started Jul 6, 2021 | Discussions
coentje Forum Member • Posts: 51
Stereo rig and base distance

Hello 3d enthousiasts,

I have a question. I have 2 sony a6000’s and want to buy a stereo rig. They are connected with a sony sync cable vmc-mm2 with a difference of the shutterrelease less then 20 microseconds which is very good for pictures (not movies). With a normal rig I have a stereobase of 143mm and if I make a Z-rig (one camera upside down) it will be 120mm due to the space for the cable. Will the effort for the Z-rig (24mm less base distance) be visible in a positive way? Or is this method not good anyway because the human eyedistance is 65mm?

Thanks, Coen

3D Gunner Senior Member • Posts: 1,031
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

The human interpupillary distance is irrelevant in this area of interest.

As a basic rule, the stereo base is recommended to be 1/30 of the distance to the closest subject in the frame, for subjects situated at normal to long distances from cameras, about 1/10 in the case of macro 3D photo, and everything in between depending on particular situations.

Brian F Flint
Brian F Flint Regular Member • Posts: 184
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

If you stagger the two cameras, that is make them overlap, you may be able to get the lens spacing down to around 90mm. This means using the 1/30 or even 1/20 rule you can get closer to your subject which needs to be about 2 to 3 metres away from the lens front.

 Brian F Flint's gear list:Brian F Flint's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS60 Sony RX10 III Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.5 1-5x Macro
OP coentje Forum Member • Posts: 51
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

Thank you for your answers. I think the base is important to avoid a lilliput effect (our brains are used to 65mm) but when I use the stagger method how do I correct for the difference in distance? One lens is 50mm closer to the subject or is that negligible?

Coen

Brian F Flint
Brian F Flint Regular Member • Posts: 184
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

For objects which are around 3 metres in front of the lens , the 50mm means one camera will have its image 1.6% larger than the other camera's image. It is normal to make alignment corrections between left and right image using software on a PC. This is free software - StereoPhotoMaker. It can easily adjust for the different in image sizes and other difference such as tilt which occurs between the two cameras. There are also manufacturing differences between lens which can result in different image sizes.

 Brian F Flint's gear list:Brian F Flint's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS60 Sony RX10 III Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.5 1-5x Macro
Oleg L K Regular Member • Posts: 293
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

I chose to arrange the two cameras vertically bottom-to-bottom and thus keep stereobase within 55-75mm.

Then I use a wider lens and crop to 1x1 or so.

OP coentje Forum Member • Posts: 51
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

Thank you, I’m going to use your idea. The 16mm range from the back camera doesn’t see the front camera with 16-50 standard lens. Great.

OP coentje Forum Member • Posts: 51
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

Oleg, I have a question.

your solution has the most little base range.

But do you have pivot monitors or do you cut something from your images to make them squared?

Brian F Flint
Brian F Flint Regular Member • Posts: 184
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

All these years and I never thought of doing that. so I though I would give this a try. I hand held my to identical cameras together ( I don't have a suitable rig/bracket to hold the two cameras bottom to bottom - but I could make one if I wanted ). I wanted to see if this system would work in movie mode. I know the cameras will do movie ok when cameras are turned on their side but I wanted to know if I could edit the left and right footage in my video editor and produce a moving  anaglyph or side by side stereo output.

I managed to do this. It involved a lot of stages, but was possible. I have not cropped the left or right footage ( except for making the alignment right ). On the side by side output I have a vertical black bar in the middle ( 19% of the total width ) and some vertical black bars at the edges.

 Brian F Flint's gear list:Brian F Flint's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS60 Sony RX10 III Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.5 1-5x Macro
Oleg L K Regular Member • Posts: 293
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

No, the cameras stay parallel, and I look only on one display.

I can blindly feed the two images to StereoPhotoMaker and use its auto-alignment to find the "common" areas.

Conceptually it equals to the "cut" option.

Oleg L K Regular Member • Posts: 293
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

It was my father's idea. I was originally locked to stereo-should-be-horizontal paradigm.

Now I realize that being square or slightly vertical is actually more usable. Just think of parallel viewers, etc.

crunchy_3d Regular Member • Posts: 149
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

Brian F Flint wrote:

For objects which are around 3 metres in front of the lens , the 50mm means one camera will have its image 1.6% larger than the other camera's image. It is normal to make alignment corrections between left and right image using software on a PC. This is free software - StereoPhotoMaker. It can easily adjust for the different in image sizes and other difference such as tilt which occurs between the two cameras. There are also manufacturing differences between lens which can result in different image sizes.

What about the size of distant objects? Still 1.6% larger?

crunchy_3d Regular Member • Posts: 149
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

coentje wrote:

Hello 3d enthousiasts,

I have a question. I have 2 sony a6000’s and want to buy a stereo rig. They are connected with a sony sync cable vmc-mm2 with a difference of the shutterrelease less then 20 microseconds which is very good for pictures (not movies). With a normal rig I have a stereobase of 143mm and if I make a Z-rig (one camera upside down) it will be 120mm due to the space for the cable. Will the effort for the Z-rig (24mm less base distance) be visible in a positive way? Or is this method not good anyway because the human eyedistance is 65mm?

Thanks, Coen

Try decreasing "sleep time" or "monitor off time" (I don't remember the right expression) in menu to the minimum value (10 seconds?). Put both cameras into video mode. Wait till both cameras enter sleep mode. Slightly press shutter button when they are connected with a cable. They both wake up. After that focus and start video. Check synchronisation.

crunchy_3d Regular Member • Posts: 149
Re: Stereo rig and base distance
Brian F Flint
Brian F Flint Regular Member • Posts: 184
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

crunchy_3d wrote:

Brian F Flint wrote:

For objects which are around 3 metres in front of the lens , the 50mm means one camera will have its image 1.6% larger than the other camera's image. It is normal to make alignment corrections between left and right image using software on a PC. This is free software - StereoPhotoMaker. It can easily adjust for the different in image sizes and other difference such as tilt which occurs between the two cameras. There are also manufacturing differences between lens which can result in different image sizes.

What about the size of distant objects? Still 1.6% larger?

This method of getting the two lenses closer is not perfect. In practise I find it does not cause a significant problem.

 Brian F Flint's gear list:Brian F Flint's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS60 Sony RX10 III Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.5 1-5x Macro
crunchy_3d Regular Member • Posts: 149
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

Brian F Flint wrote:

This method of getting the two lenses closer is not perfect. In practise I find it does not cause a significant problem.

Interesting, for me even 0.5% height difference is way too much for comfortable vision. Apparently I am not a "hardcore stereoscopist"

Seeing a perfectly aligned image or an image with a small height difference is like night and day for me. The latter always causes some strain in my eyes.

Brian F Flint
Brian F Flint Regular Member • Posts: 184
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

crunchy_3d wrote:

Brian F Flint wrote:

This method of getting the two lenses closer is not perfect. In practise I find it does not cause a significant problem.

Interesting, for me even 0.5% height difference is way too much for comfortable vision. Apparently I am not a "hardcore stereoscopist"

Seeing a perfectly aligned image or an image with a small height difference is like night and day for me. The latter always causes some strain in my eyes.

Using StereoPhotoMaker the main object in the scene is aligned so its height for left and right is  exactly the same  ( say to a 0.1% or less matching ). Other objects in the far distance will not quite match in height ( as you pointed out ), but these objects are not the main focus of the overall image, and in practise  do not cause a problem. As I said putting the two cameras in a stagger arrangement to reduce the base distance is not perfect. When I have done this , I am usually doing a stereo movie clip rather than a still.

 Brian F Flint's gear list:Brian F Flint's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS60 Sony RX10 III Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.5 1-5x Macro
3D Gunner Senior Member • Posts: 1,031
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

The optical centers of the two lenses can be perfectly aligned. I do not see from where is the problem of vertical misalignment.

crunchy_3d Regular Member • Posts: 149
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

Yes, that's theoretically possible too, if one camera is partially pushed in front of the other. Unfortunately StereoPhoto Maker does not know how to solve that properly, and I am not keen on using Linux SW for that (there is a program that does it perfectly).

Also, one camera in front of the other and perfect alignment (note: Linux) leads to a pretty limited horizontal view in 3D and muddy parts of the image. This has to be taken into account.

3D Gunner Senior Member • Posts: 1,031
Re: Stereo rig and base distance

Using one of the cameras in an inverted position (upside down) is a much better solution.

For smaller inter-axial distances a beam-splitter rig is needed.

Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum MMy threads